Thoughts on installing hoist in barn.....

[Maxcustody]

I purchased a northern tool hoist, thinking it would be pretty easy to install. I am not looking at lifting anything very heavy. This is primarily to lift my roof top tent from my trailer to the top of my jeep and back when needed.

The problem is I have only the ceiling joists. The rule of thumb (from researching) is NEVER drill a hole in any ceiling joist, it weakens the structure, Obviously, I don't want to do that. I picked up 3/4 inch plumbing pipe to have it cross the top of the joists, then attach the hoist to that? Thoughts. I am thinking to even out the load across joists. I can pick up some more pipe to make it cross 4 joists for the load.

Some pics.....hoist, barn joist. I have had electrical outlets already installed in all 4 corners of the ceiling in the barn..........thanks for the help and suggestions.

 

[sailfast]

You need to build a structure separate from the rafters that can carry the entire load the winch can lift

 

[300UGUY]

The bottom chord of the truss is the weakest

 

[s219]

I wouldn't mess with the trusses, however if it's for light loads only (and you can guarantee nobody will ever do otherwise) I bet it would be fine. I used barn door box rail to hang a hoist in the garage of my old house, for the purpose of loading/lifting a 80# hardtop off my former sports car. The box rail acted as a stiffener and let me move the hoist around. I lagged it into the floor joists above, which were certainly a lot beefier and more capable than the bottom chord of trusses, but I think if you're careful and you only do this for very light loads, you'll be fine.

I'd nail 2x4 blocking onto the side of the truss chord with rated 16D nails, and then lag your rail or support into the blocking. That way you're not messing with the truss structure other than a couple nails, which shouldn't be an issue. Stay away from or bridge any any splice plates in the bottom chord. Most 16D rated nails can handle 100# shear load each, so the nails will be far stronger across all the blocks/trusses than the lags and what you could/should be lifting.

So for me it comes down to whether or not you can guarantee the hoist will only ever be used for light loads. That means making sure some dummie doesn't come along and try to pull the engine/transmission out of a truck or something stupid/heavy like that.

 

[dieselcrawler]

How heavy is the item you plan to lift? What items might you lift that you currently have no plan to lift but 'Hey theres that electric lift in the barn, will that work?' moments in your future.

The plus side is the hoist is light, looks tobe 750 to 1500 lb rated? If you are only lifting 200-300 lbs, toss a 4x4x8' long across as many rafters you can get it to span, in the bottom of one of the 'V' where bracing comes to the bottom chord, and hang your hoist in the middle with a short chain loop around the 4x4. Much more than 200-300 lbs, and youre pushing the limits of the trusses.

 

[raybo777]

I would not recommend it. Those roof trusses are engineered to support weight from above by transfer thru the 'w' members to the side walls by way of the bottom chord. Usually just a 2 X 4. Pulling down would rip the 2 X 4 from the plates at the joints, different from compression from above weight.. I understand that a tent is not too weighty Maybe better to have a rolling gantry or install a couple of posts and a header located up inside truss bay. I know it may seem like more work than it's worth , but hey, would be better than a truss. I hear you about spreading the load over three or four 2 X 4's , If you had a 2 X 6 / 8 rafter system , I would say go for it. These are just my thoughts, good luck.

 

[Maxcustody]

Thanks for the replies, glad I asked. The roof top tent I plan on using it for is no more than 200lbs. This is the primary use. I can guarantee no one else will use it unless I am there and I know better now that it is not able to be used for a lot of weight as you all point out.

 

[Maxcustody]

I would not recommend it. Those roof trusses are engineered to support weight from above by transfer thru the 'w' members to the side walls by way of the bottom chord. Usually just a 2 X 4. Pulling down would rip the 2 X 4 from the plates at the joints, different from compression from above weight.. I understand that a tent is not too weighty Maybe better to have a rolling gantry or install a couple of posts and a header located up inside truss bay. I know it may seem like more work than it's worth , but hey, would be better than a truss. I hear you about spreading the load over three or four 2 X 4's , If you had a 2 X 6 / 8 rafter system , I would say go for it. These are just my thoughts, good luck.

Sounds like it is not a good idea and I do not want to cause issues with the joists............

 

[Maxcustody]

I would not recommend it. Those roof trusses are engineered to support weight from above by transfer thru the 'w' members to the side walls by way of the bottom chord. Usually just a 2 X 4. Pulling down would rip the 2 X 4 from the plates at the joints, different from compression from above weight.. I understand that a tent is not too weighty Maybe better to have a rolling gantry or install a couple of posts and a header located up inside truss bay. I know it may seem like more work than it's worth , but hey, would be better than a truss. I hear you about spreading the load over three or four 2 X 4's , If you had a 2 X 6 / 8 rafter system , I would say go for it. These are just my thoughts, good luck.

To clarify, I could use two large posts and a header which crosses over top but sits on the posts only to support the weight? probably will take up the least amount of space. May be the best option.......

 

[dieselcrawler]

I wouldnt use trusses to lift the motor out of your '69 Chevelle SS396, but a couple hundred pounds isnt any more stress than that big guy on the construction crew building the barn who could easily have put his whole weight in one place on a bottom chord during construction of said barn. If spread out, 200-300 lbs isnt going to stress things any more than a good heavy wet snow, or Bubba the Big Barn Builder climbing around.

My dad has used the 30' rafters in his pole barn as storage space for 35 years, no issues yet.

Be reasonable on the weight, no worries. Hang it all in one place, max out your hoist, you might break something.