Thoughts on installing hoist in barn.....

   / Thoughts on installing hoist in barn.....
  • Thread Starter
#31  
How wide is that shop? Looks like 28'

I agree with others, dont hang anything from the trusses. Your trusses werent designed and engineered for that. Do you have any of the specs of the trusses, and what loading design they were built for? Everytime I have ordered trusses, They ask alot of questions, like what roofing material is gonna be, any ceiling attached to the underside, etc. They really build them about as light as they can get away with.

I'd get a 28' beam, sufficient to span the width of the shop, mount on two columns, then hang the hoist from that. Would you have a way to hoist and set a 500# steel beam in place?

What is the specs of that hoist? What does 750/1500# capacity mean?

Assuming its a 1500# capacity, and 28' span.....you would need a minimum of a W6x25, W8x21, W10x19 for a beam.

IF its only a 750# hoist spanning the 28'.....you would need a minimum of a w5x19, w6x15, w8x13, w10x12, s6x17.25. s7x15.3 beam.

It is 30 wide by 50 long. Thanks for the suggestions, don't know if I would need one the whole length of the shop, however I guess you never know what the future will hold.
 
   / Thoughts on installing hoist in barn..... #32  
Just be sure to post pics and update us as you complete this project. We are all anxious to see the outcome. :)
 
   / Thoughts on installing hoist in barn.....
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Just be sure to post pics and update us as you complete this project. We are all anxious to see the outcome. :)
Will do. Leaning towards portable gantry crane
 
   / Thoughts on installing hoist in barn..... #35  
I purchased a northern tool hoist, thinking it would be pretty easy to install. I am not looking at lifting anything very heavy. This is primarily to lift my roof top tent from my trailer to the top of my jeep and back when needed.

The problem is I have only the ceiling joists. The rule of thumb (from researching) is NEVER drill a hole in any ceiling joist, it weakens the structure, Obviously, I don't want to do that. I picked up 3/4 inch plumbing pipe to have it cross the top of the joists, then attach the hoist to that? Thoughts. I am thinking to even out the load across joists. I can pick up some more pipe to make it cross 4 joists for the load.

Some pics.....hoist, barn joist. I have had electrical outlets already installed in all 4 corners of the ceiling in the barn..........thanks for the help and suggestions.
I've been following this thread from it's inception and once again I'm amazed at the mission creep on TBN.

As one poster wrote undoubtedly some construction worker that weighed more than the roof top tent walked across the joists with no problem.

But then I start seeing the project getting bigger and bigger until it's spanning the width of the building. I'm sure some of you guys have all sorts of free I beams just laying about.

And pretty soon you are building something like this:
402034d1418236903-help-figuring-steel-needed-hoist-span-beam-28-jpg

from Shield Arc.

But many of us don't have free steel.

To me the way to do it would be first jump up and hang by the joists to see if there is any movement. If it feels solid then lay the plumbing pipe across the joists, measure the joist distance from the floor, hoist the roof top tent up CAREFULLY and measure the change in JOIST height. There may be none if the pipe lays on 4 joists. Then if you want to beef it up fasten uprights at either end of the span.

I've a small shed with a 10 foot wide gambrel roof frame made of 2x4's which I store wood, fencing and other stuff. Well over several hundred pounds. Been there since 1986. No problem.

I've been planning on a similar hoist to lift things like my chipper
attachment.php

or my bandsaw
attachment.php
.

What I'll probably do is find a 15 foot I beam of sufficient strength and mount it on a pair of lally columns/jack posts I have. I'll attach the columns to uprights that are supporting the roof and beams in the roof to prevent movement.

So OP, think how much mission creep you can do and still get the mission done in a timely manner.
 

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   / Thoughts on installing hoist in barn..... #36  
Don't give up on hanging a load from the trusses.

Looks like a new shop and the company that sold you the trusses should be able to tell you what they can support and where.

I've built a shop with wood trusses that were engineered to support tracks for a crane rated at 2 tons. The tracks had to be lag bolted to each truss the length of the shop.

It was all engineered by the truss company in about 5 minutes time, specs printed out and came with the certifications stapled to the trusses when they were delivered. I was also given a point load diagram giving the connection points on the trusses.

Engineer told me that it didn't change the design at all for the 36' span and I could have quadrupled the capacity by simply going to a 2x6 bottom chord.

Point is, those trusses are very strong, and sometimes getting the design work done is free. Can't hurt to ask.
 
   / Thoughts on installing hoist in barn.....
  • Thread Starter
#37  
I've been following this thread from it's inception and once again I'm amazed at the mission creep on TBN.

As one poster wrote undoubtedly some construction worker that weighed more than the roof top tent walked across the joists with no problem.

But then I start seeing the project getting bigger and bigger until it's spanning the width of the building. I'm sure some of you guys have all sorts of free I beams just laying about.

And pretty soon you are building something like this:
402034d1418236903-help-figuring-steel-needed-hoist-span-beam-28-jpg

from Shield Arc.

But many of us don't have free steel.

To me the way to do it would be first jump up and hang by the joists to see if there is any movement. If it feels solid then lay the plumbing pipe across the joists, measure the joist distance from the floor, hoist the roof top tent up CAREFULLY and measure the change in JOIST height. There may be none if the pipe lays on 4 joists. Then if you want to beef it up fasten uprights at either end of the span.

I've a small shed with a 10 foot wide gambrel roof frame made of 2x4's which I store wood, fencing and other stuff. Well over several hundred pounds. Been there since 1986. No problem.

I've been planning on a similar hoist to lift things like my chipper
486528d1477959970-thoughts-installing-hoist-barn-chipper-hoist-jpg

or my bandsaw
486533d1477960025-thoughts-installing-hoist-barn-8x620130919_094557-jpg
.

What I'll probably do is find a 15 foot I beam of sufficient strength and mount it on a pair of lally columns/jack posts I have. I'll attach the columns to uprights that are supporting the roof and beams in the roof to prevent movement.

So OP, think how much mission creep you can do and still get the mission done in a timely manner.

Thanks good info. I agree it was an original question of lifting 200 pounds and it turned into spanning 30 feet and a steel beam................
 
   / Thoughts on installing hoist in barn..... #38  
The way some of y'all are talking about the trusses, I bet you'd even be afraid to hang drywall from them for a ceiling, despite the fact that people hang *thousands* of pounds of drywall from the bottom chord of trusses all the time. Yes, I know, it's not exactly the same, but I honestly feel like the OP lifting a 200# tent supported across many trusses is peanuts and won't be an issue at all.
 
   / Thoughts on installing hoist in barn..... #40  
Why not just hoist up the tent with your loader?
 

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