Thoughts on installing hoist in barn.....

[Maxcustody]

Why not just hoist up the tent with your loader?

Looking at that option as well. Just ordered a set of Artillian forks with the 3000 lb. Frame and 2 inch receiver

 

[LD1]

I agree, no issues lifting a tent top supported by a couple of trusses.

The issue lies with a hoist rated to lift 1500#. If there is even the slightest urge to lift other things....then dont take chances, do it right.

My point of listing the beams required to span that distance, was to show just what it does take to support the capacity of the hoist over that span. And a 30' building.....is probably ~28' span on the inside as I listed. Do you think the bottom chord of a pair of trusses is anywhere close to the same strength as those beams I listed? For a point load in the middle?

~200# tent....not a problem. What if something snags on the way up? And you have a hoist yanking with 1500# of force? I have pulled ~400# motors out of cars before, and it never fails that you might miss a bolt, or get caught on something, and next thing you know, the whole front end of the car is lifting off the jack stands.

I'd feel alot better about hanging a hoist from a pipe between trusses if the hoist were rated for ~250#. That way, you know no matter what you try to lift or might snag.....you aint gonna bring the building down

 

[DJ54]

I put this 15" beam, with 8" H-Beam supports in my shop 4 years ago, but I anchored the uprights before pouring the floor. I had pins sticking up out of the anchor pour, to pin into the floor to make it even more stable.

Got the beams from a local guy that owns a demolition company. Got everything for under $300, basically scrap price. With steel prices down, it may pay to shop around.

Just made some short jibs, and used a couple of 2 ton come-a-longs w/snatch blocks to pull it up, anchored to a couple tractors. I put this up by myself. Once I got everything situated, and hooked up, it took 45 minutes from the ground, to on top of the uprights. Just a few notches at a time, back and forth.

 

[oosik]

I have always thought it would be nice to have some type of hoist. However, as many have indicated, I'm not real certain that my rafters, even though they are doubled 2 x 12's, in my carport would support the loads that I might be lifting. I've decided that its best to be safe and not have to rebuild anything.

We had a member in our 4WD club that had rebuilt a gantry crane to fit in his big garage. It would track both left/right & forward/back. I'll wager he had no more than ten days out of the year where HE had use of his garage. He was always a good friend to all in the club.

 

[LD1]

I put this 15" beam, with 8" H-Beam supports in my shop 4 years ago, but I anchored the uprights before pouring the floor. I had pins sticking up out of the anchor pour, to pin into the floor to make it even more stable.

Got the beams from a local guy that owns a demolition company. Got everything for under $300, basically scrap price. With steel prices down, it may pay to shop around.

Just made some short jibs, and used a couple of 2 ton come-a-longs w/snatch blocks to pull it up, anchored to a couple tractors. I put this up by myself. Once I got everything situated, and hooked up, it took 45 minutes from the ground, to on top of the uprights. Just a few notches at a time, back and forth.

Nice looking setup. You ever assign a safe WLL to that setup? How far are you spanning?

Gotta love cheap used steel. I bought:
(2) 25' sections of W18x60
(4) ~ 15' sections of W10x33
(1) ~18' length of W8x24
(1) ~25' length of W8x31

All that for ~$500-$600. Cant remember exactly.

It turned into this:

 

[Maxcustody]

Nice looking setup. You ever assign a safe WLL to that setup? How far are you spanning?

Gotta love cheap used steel. I bought:
(2) 25' sections of W18x60
(4) ~ 15' sections of W10x33
(1) ~18' length of W8x24
(1) ~25' length of W8x31

All that for ~$500-$600. Cant remember exactly.

It turned into this:
View attachment 486559View attachment 486560

Now that is a great shop!!

 

[DJ54]

Nice looking setup. You ever assign a safe WLL to that setup? How far are you spanning?

Gotta love cheap used steel. I bought:
(2) 25' sections of W18x60
(4) ~ 15' sections of W10x33
(1) ~18' length of W8x24
(1) ~25' length of W8x31

All that for ~$500-$600. Cant remember exactly.

It turned into this:
View attachment 486559View attachment 486560

No, I didn't. A couple of guys calculated it, but, can't remember the numbers at the moment. But, it is way more than I'll ever have hanging from it. Span is just short of 30'. Can't remember the pounds per foot, but it's 1/2" web & flange.

A buddy ranted on, for putting up such a big beam.. He asked what I was going to pick on it. I told him, what ever I want... Then proceeds to tell me the loads a buddy of his picks on hay trolley track, attached to wooden beams in an old bank barn, fastened up with drywall screws. Scares me, just to think about that..!!

At the other place, I had 3 hoists on trolleys, mainly for when tearing a tractor down. Just pull it longways with the beam. My smaller tractors can be in 4 pieces, with 3 of those pieces hanging if need be. I left two hoists & trolleys there. Thought I'd splurge, and get new trolleys for here. I've got several nice, older hoists I picked up at auctions, etc.

 

[LD1]

THe 15" beam is throwing me for a loop. IT looks in the pics like a wide flange beam, but those skip 15". Can be had in either 14" or 16".

S-type beams (typically slightly weaker per pound due to smaller flanges) do come in a 15" variety. S-type have tapered flanges on the inside, similar to channel iron. So the flange thickness is thinnest at the edges and gets thicker towards the middle.

S-type could be a S15 x 42.9......5.5" wide, .622 flange thickness on average, and .411 web thickness. Or could be a S15x50, 5.640" wide, also .622 flange thickness, and .551 web.

Depending on which of those two beams, 4800-5200# would be the approximate capacity on a 30' span.

 

[Milo]

When I did something similar I cut two pieces of 1/2" OSB and fitted them to the two trusses my hoist mounts screwed into to spread the load off the bottom (2) 2x4's only. The OSB attached (scabbed on the side glued and screwed) to both the bottom straight run, the top pitched run, as well as part of an angled brace connecting the top and bottom. In my case it was above ceiling which is also OSB (painted white) so not visible. The heaviest I've lifted is the MMM on my tractor but there was not a creak or sign of movement in the ceiling.

 

[bcp]

Sharing the load makes a big difference. That's how those flimsy looking 2x4 roof frames hold up tons of snow.

Bruce