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Like most mechanical lift pumps it works off a cam lobe so rotation must be in the right spot or the manual lever won't produce much. If in doubt try bumping the engine over a few times while working the lever.

Oil dipstick blew out? That would more likely be high crankcase pressure than high oil pressure. I think you may be looking in the wrong direction. Look for a crankcase breather, vent or filter that might be restricted.

Where you need to start is with the linkage. As I stated earlier, the linkage has to move the control valve spool in order for the power portion to operate. Enlist a helper if need be to turn the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the linkage. You can do it by yourself but sometimes...

That wouldn't be my choice. I've put as many as three of those on one tractor. Not one lasted for an hour. What I use is this. I have one or two on hand all the time...

Injection pump is the LAST item on the list. It never had a lift pump. The engineers decided to let the injection pump pull fuel from the tank through the filters. Wasn't a great idea then, and even less so now. Change out the hoses first. You need to do that anyway. I've added electric fuel...

Wow! And you didn't see that before you took it apart?

Actually, there is no feed pump. If it had one this problem might not be there. Sometimes the addition of an electric pump can be quite helpful.

If the tractor still has the factory fuel lines, I would suggest you start right there. The lines were nothing but problems since the tractors were new. If it still has the braided steel covered hoses, I would carefully cut the crimp sleeves, peel them off and remove the hoses. Replace them all...

Were there any shims or washers under the switches? If so it's best to keep them in the same place they came from. They can be involved in positioning of the status switch signal to computer monitors.

No, not the pump. The line will separate on the end of the steel portion.

If it's the hose in your photo, it's not mean to come apart. You replace hose, line,and all as a unit.

Look for a friction stop adjustment. There's probably a nut you can tighten to increase tension on the lever.

Probably not a lot of "experts" on that tractor out here. If you post a few photos of what you're looking at in there someone may offer some ideas.

It's quite possible the old pump wasn't a large part of the problem to begin with. More likely it's mostly a wear and adjustment issue with the shafts, pins, bushings and related linkage int the steering mechanism. You can remove the grill, start the engine and do some "self tests" with the...

I can see a few possibilities. How was the steering BEFORE the pump was replaced? Was it pretty much the same as now? Maybe the pump wasn't the problem. The steering mechanism on that tractor has multiple wear points that can affect steering performance. Most all of that is in front of the...

There are two open center pumps involved. They are combined into one flow for the closed center valves on demand. Flow from either pump can be diverted for other functions (sort of power beyond I guess) if done so upstream of the combining valve. I've seen (and done) that a few times using one...

So it's a new steering pump. It wouldn't be the first time that a "new" replacement part didn't live up to expectations. What sort of warranty came with the purchase?

So far it seems those in favor of such a feature slightly out number those opposed. I have to wonder why anyone would oppose it to begin with? There must be hundreds of features on this site that a great many members don't use or even know about. This would so just be one more. It wouldn't...

Maybe some others who agree will step and say so too. I can't see how the feature would create any loss to the community. We're just skipping over threads we wouldn't read or participate in anyway.

Too bad. It might be more popular than you think.

Actually, I'm hoping to get a response from someone in administration as to whether or not it's possible. Maybe it's not.

I'm not sure just what that means. I don't click on the threads, I just get tired of scrolling past them over and over.

Thanks, but that's not the solution I was hoping for,

I understand it's possible to "ignore" certain members' posts if one chooses. Is there a way to do the same with selected threads as well. There are some that I would like to ignore if at all possible. Some that seem to go on and on forever, with hundreds of replies, pages and pages of them...

Don't forget about the flow control on the back of the remote valve. (assuming it works) I would set it at minimum for openers, see how the unit works and adjust up if need be.

I think it's safe to say the unit is no good. I would suggest you shop for a replacement. Then again, depending on cost of said item, I might also consider mounting a choke or other control cable and just using that instead of the electric shut off. That was the standard for the industry for...

I don't think he really knows just WHAT he has. He's thinking closed center because that's the nomenclature that was used with the Ford "deluxe" remote valve. It's actually the same dual pump system Ford had used on a number of models during that era. It's two open center systems combined...

You might consider a Tisco HV5902 valve block. That will give you direct flow from the tractor's internal pump and about 8 GPM. Assuming that would be sufficient for your laser system? Using the current remote valve tied back will work but that's forcing twice as much flow through the system...

The power steering is supplied from an engine mounted pump, totally separate from the lift and auxiliary pump. It has it's own reservoir and shares nothing with the hydraulic system. My starting point would be draining the transmission/rear end, removing and cleaning the suction screen on the...

You can go about it any way you choose, but I think most people would do it with the cylinder on the machine. I do at least. I think in most cases it's less work to do it that way than to try and remove the whole cylinder. Sometimes if it doesn't come apart easily I will jack it up and take off...

As I see it you have a few different choices. You can continue to fool with it until you get it right. You can pull it off, take it to a shop and pay someone to fix it. You can give up on it, pull it off, and replace it with another valve. It doesn't have to be another identical unit. Many many...

If your tractor has standard hydraulics it should look something like this. If you have item #48 in this diagram then you don't need any adapter plate. You already have what's required. All you need is a proper valve and some plumbing.

Some better details might get you some better answers. "Not working" doesn't help much on the diagnosis front.

I probably can't do much from here, but what sort of help are you hoping for? Is it a double shaft style cylinder with a ball joint on each side or just a single cylinder on one side. Parts book shows both types.

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com0543cyl/3-cyl-compact-tractor/hydraulic-systems/lift-cover-arms-1710/cn/706C1CCB-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/71EE724F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 The seal is available for $42. You can try an O ring and if there's room...

And you need this adapter because...?

Not telling you what to do here, it's a matter of choice and fittings, but I think you would be better served to tee in the gauge ahead of the loader valve rather than after it. You can actually operate the tractor doing things and test more functions that way.

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/4/5946-ford-5030.html If this is what you have, it has no glow plugs or glow plug lights. Misinformation there. It MAY have a thermostart, as many Ford's were so equipped. If it has that feature, there will (or there was if someone installed an...

You do realize that proves nothing in regards to condition or operation of the clutch. If the clutch isn't driving you can shift smoothly all day and the tractor still won't move.

More likely an electronic issue. Power shuttle tractor, right? It COULD be a status switch or circuit related to to low range. Just guessing there. Best option is to go looking for error codes. New Holland software can retrieve stored codes. That might help narrow it down.

The term "free up" is a bit confusing in this case. Is this a situation where the lift arms are stuck in one position where they are down and won't go up? Up but won't go down? Explain the situation a little better and you might get some help.

Your SURE the clutch isn't the problem?

By the looks of that valve there's a good chance you could get something put in wrong. It's certainly not the simple two spool loader type valve we commonly see. I can't tell much about it from the single view but I don't see anything familiar about it. Maybe one of the smarter guys here will...

Post some photos of your valve, the three hoses involved, and explain where on the tractor each hose goes. Pictures from multiple angles will help identify what you need to know.

I suspect there's also a circuit in the PTO switch that interrupts the start circuit. Have you been there yet?

And that made the tractor not start?

My take as well. I finally got the photos large enough to read the print and concluded the internal plug inside port A must be part (or most) of the problem. That would be the next place I would look.

"You know where to look?" Actually no you don't, because if you did you wouldn't be here asking about it. What you need to do is take (and post) some photos of your loader valve from different angles so we can see what you see. Show us where the oil flow comes from, where it enters the loader...

I believe you will find that gas and diesel engines in the 3000 share a lot of common parts. Mounting the shaft is no ten minute job. mind you, but it should work. You will probably want to remove the radiator and shell in order to better access the front pulley, clean out the boltholes, etc. I...

I'm not familiar with common rail Kubota engines, but think the hydraulic pump drives off the back of the fuel camshaft and mounts on the right side, so I doubt the pump has any part in the leak.

Well it looks like it should work. At least the concept is correct. Your loader valve looks good as well, and yes some do use a plug threaded into an internal port to convert to power beyond. That seems simple enough.

You lost me part way back. You made your own sandwich plate but you don't know which holes are which? If that's the case how could you know which ports in the block to connect to connect with internal passages? I think your game plan was missing a few pages at the outset here. Maybe you can post...

It's power beyond CAPABLE, but you need to order the sleeve separately. Did you do that?

No way to know what seal (if any) is the culprit, but you can narrow it down by determining whether it's engine oil or hydraulic fluid. That shouldn't be too hard.

Are you keeping those temperatures and pressures secret?

I've been told a lot things too, but the 5103 is at least fifteen years old. Tier IV hadn't been invented yet.

Been sitting a few years? You have fuel TO the pump (you're sure about that?) and the solenoid clicks with a jumper wire. Loosen at least one injector line on the back of the pump and crank it a few times. If nothing shows up you probably have internal pump problems that will require qualified...

A 5103 with a computer controlled fuel system? When did that happen?

I got much the same impression from the original post, but details as sketchy as this aren't much to go on. Maybe we'll find out someday what his problem was.

You lost me on that. If the engine starts and runs, he can put it in gear and the engine stalls when he lets the clutch out, then why would you pull the starter and/or go looking for a possible stuck clutch issue?

When in neutral and you slide the shift lever from side to side does it move from the first-second gear position to the third-fourth gear position? The external pivot joint on that transmission is the most common shifting problem. Item 2 seizes on item 5. Then the lever won't let you change from...

Well my friend, good like finding a filter that will do what you're hoping for. Maybe someone has some answers for you.

Once you have water/oil mix like you're experiencing, it doesn't separate as easily as it does in diesel. Somehow I doubt there is a filter out there that's reasonably (or even unreasonably) priced that will do what you ask. I don't know that for a fact so will withhold judgement on that. I...

Your tractor has trailer brakes? Where do you live, or where did that tractor come from? I see trailer brake components listed in parts books and service manuals frequently but have yet to find a tractor so equipped. As for the electrical (non) functions, the fuses may be good but is there...

Many many tractors use a reservoir with gravity feed to supply a thermostart. If yours doesn't work you need to explain what you used and how you put it all together. Done correctly, no reason for it not to work.

To start with there should be a separate fuse box for the cab circuits. On the right side cab post between the door glass and the side window at about eye level when in the seat. Not very big, and it has a plastic cover that snaps off. Also be aware that there is no single wiring diagram for...

Do you also see the leak is the body seal, nothing to do with the shaft seal? It's really doing you no harm (yet). Just keep and eye on the steering oil level until you have time to deal with it.

What you pictured is not a shaft seal leak, and that's not your hydraulic pump. It's the steering pump. Whatever you do with the hydraulics (other than steering) won't influence that leak at all...

I don't mean to offend, but I think you should take another look at the pump. Maybe clean it off a little better and look again in better lighting. I don't see any way hydraulic oil can leak from between the pump mounting flange and the timing cover. There is no hydraulic oil at that point...

I would say a bad starter is an excellent possibility. These days of aftermarket (cheap and plentiful) replacement electrical parts, especially starters, not many make it to the one year warranty mark.

What drive gear, and why does it need replacing? Half the gears in that tractor are drive gears.

I never left the flip phone. I've been told a dozen times or more "you need a smart phone". I don't think so. I've tried manipulating other people's smart phones and just don't like them. Too slippery for me, and I can't seem to hold one without touching a button somewhere that messes things up...

Again, if you can turn the cylinder head (some call it a gland) with a pipe wrench or large channel locks, you should see the lock ring move in the small window. USUALLY the end of the ring is right in the window, but not always. Once the end is in view, reach in with a pick or some small sharp...

You don't know the lock ring is a problem unless you try. If you can get it apart with the barrel still in place you can save some time and $$ doing it yourself. It's not that hard. Look in the hole on side for the end of the lock ring. If it's right there and you can move it a little by turning...

"This guy" has shot down everything because he is well aware (as I'm sure you soon will be) that what you hope to do here simply won't work. Your tractor is no match for your implement. You should consider a larger tractor to match the implement, or a smaller implement to match your tractor.

I would find something to fit over the lever (with the linkage off) and try to horse it back and forth. If it's stuck in the bores, you might be able to work it loose that way using penetrating oil from both sides, a lot of elbow grease, and patience.

I think it's time to disassemble the left cylinder. To me that's the obvious next step here. Something between the rod and the piston needs attention.

It could be the wire FROM the charge light is finding a ground somewhere other than the alternator. If I suspect that I will disconnect the pigtail from the alternator, turn the key on and see if the light is still on or not.

Does the pedal move at all? As in will it go down far enough to establish that there is free play? If not, I would start by removing the clevis pin down on the bottom of the linkage rod where it connects to the arm that rotates the shaft through the clutch housing. In fact I would probably...

There should be nothing to bleed on that tractor. It's a strictly mechanical clutch. Are you saying the pedal won't go down, or maybe it goes down but the clutch doesn't release so you can shift gears?

Thanks. Both are interesting ideas.

I too have a Lincoln SP 100. I have no idea how old it is. I traded for it about twenty years ago from a friend who acquired it from an estate sale type thing some years before that and had never actually used it. It had a bad guide tube at the time so I bought a new Radnor gun and guide...

There are pros and cons any way you go. Digital downloads or CD versions of the originals are usually the cheapest. They can be a pain because you scroll endlessly looking for what you want. Then you find they send you to another page somewhere for the specs you need for the operation you just...

Fuel de-priming? I'm not sure that's a word, but I don't think that's the case here either. Did you change the filter BEFORE or after you attempted to start it this last time? Personally, when given the choice I never change fuel filters on a cold engine. I always start and run it for a few...

I think you've pretty well covered the basics. I do question the part about black smoke while cranking. I must assume it never did that when it was starting better? Typically when attempting to start diesel engines the smoke is grey while cranking. What is your memory on that from past usage?

It must be in the upper right front corner of the timing gear cover. I don't see the drive unit itself listed in the parts book, but item 9 in this diagram is described as gear, tachometer shaft. The drive can't be far away...

Next time you go out there try the air heater again, only this time put your hand on it. Hopefully you can reach it and the key at the same time. With power applied you should feel the area around the heater start to get warm after twenty seconds or so. You know the circuits work but you don't...

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/na/tractors/compact/naba17com227boomer/compact-tractor-wrops/front-axle-steering/power-steering-pump-hydraulic-pump-ehss/cn/ADDE3CFC-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/4004734F-E6BE-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6 New CNH website is not the easiest to negotiate...

Before you get carried away with internal adjustments, look at the clutch pedal linkage. I believe there are two positions on the pedal linkage to switch operation from PTO use on non PTO use. A clevis pin on the linkage can be moved from one hole to another changing the stroke of the pedal. One...

I admit I don't know much about these tractors, but problems such as this do interest me. Enough so that I will often study the situation a little if I can. In this case it looks to me the tractor has two PTO clutch packs. One for main PTO and one for Mid PTO. You've pretty well covered all...

I'd rather have the double lip in that environment.

I assume that you're here looking/asking for opinions? Here's one more. The three spool valve you linked to will work in your application, no doubt. It wouldn't be my choice, but then it's not my tractor or my project. You mentioned earlier about a valve with one float spool. This one has none...

Check your PM inbox.

I'm not familiar with that model, but if it has the Kubota LA950 loader and the associated plumbing, then you should have the hard part done. It would be a simple matter to tie into the existing hydraulics and add whatever valves, couplers, etc you think you might need. There are dozens of...

That part is available from a number of suppliers. Must be a pretty common failure item for there to be that many people selling them. Any sort of leak in that area will allow air into the system. Changing it is a good first step. Unless it's below oil level, I can't see why draining anything...

There is a temporary "bandaid" you might try to get by for a while. I've seen it done many times. First tighten the fan belt. It needs to be tight. Then reach in and pull on the fan blade while pushing in on the belt. It can be rather awkward, but once you get the hang of it you can turn the...

What does it have now? An externally regulated alternator or a generator? Either way, a Delco style one wire will not be an easy fit without a fight. There are numerous conversion kits available that come with MOST of what you need. Sometimes the existing pulley can be made to work on the new...

Your problem may well be a fuel supply problem, but maybe not. Does the injection pump have two solenoids? One on the very top of the pump and another slightly lower and farther back on the pump? If it does, I have some quick tests you might try involving the solenoids.

The last time I was faced with a similar situation it was a seized rod bearing. It was no surprise since the engine had been run with little or no oil in it. Similar symptoms though. The engine stuck, was VERY hard to turn, but did eventually break loose with enough effort, and it was then able...

I think you guys (many anyway) are missing the point. Getting all excited about a (possible?) fuel problem when the engine won't even turn over? In my opinion this engine has bigger problems than a "clogged injector line" and worrying about how to treat the fuel and fuel system is not going to...

I have no idea how remove enough plastic to reach behind and actually grab the switch, but the nut can usually be dealt with using a pair of channel locks. It's on there TIGHT because if it isn't the switch will try to turn in the hole when you go to the start position. If you replace the...

https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/newhollandag/cn/o-ring/p/9861431 This should be the part you're looking for. It fits a long list of models that use that style valve and coupler. It's a teflon sort of material, not easy to manipulate. Probably best not to attempt changing them on a cold day...

The rubber hoses went to a collection bottle at one time. That's long gone I guess. The teo "covered ports" are the valve spool detent housings. Don't mess with them. The leaks where the noses plug into the couplers can most likely be slowed or stopped with new seals in couplers. Can be done...

If it's all hard plumbed and there is no dedicated test port available, I would probably try to remove one of the tilts cylinder hoses, cap/plug the port and deadhead a gauge on the exposed hose end. See what that reads. Put all that back together and do the same on the lift cylinder. You should...

You need to get more parts separated and out on the table.

Not necessarily. Most good quality control valves have load checks that keep trapped oil in the loaded cylinders sealed off from the spools themselves. This is a one way (single acting) spool, so it may or may not have the same checks as the tilt spool, but it probably has something. Both the...

I'm not buying that. If the steering wouldn't hold on that side to the point where the tire and wheel would turn left and right while the steering wheel and tire on the other side had integrity, then something's wrong. You just haven't found it yet.

Single acting cylinders. Anything "bleeding by" will show up as leak with oil all over the ground. There is a system relief somewhere, even if it's not in the two spool valve body. It's not the problem because the the tilt function works. A mismatched cylinder doesn't make much sense either. If...

First guess would be it has a bearing failure on the output shaft, which now is no longer centered in the seal. Possibly ripped the seal to pieces in the process. Could be a result of a balance problem with the drive line for the snow blower? Not a given but should be considered.

My guess is the item labeled knuckle arm (L) is loose on the spindle (or whatever part it's attached to) as in a sheared key, damaged splines, etc. Whatever locates in place.

Assuming the relief valve is working because it comes into play on the tilt circuit right? I think you could deadhead either the lift or tilt circuit into a gauge without fear. I can't think of anything valve related that would cause this problem on only one circuit, but it seems like there...

It seems I've recently read some posts concerning problems with RX power shuttle controllers. I got the impression Kioti hasn't exactly solved all the issues there. You might research that a little if you're considering that version.

The H50 should be capable of lifting 5000 Lbs. A pressure gauge is a logical next step. Without it you're pretty much lost as to what's going on. If possible (and it might not be simple) you would like to put it between the pump and the control valve so you can see the difference between...

Check your PM inbox.

It's just a carriage bolt. If you can't hold it with pliers of some sort through the opening above the plate, I would cut it off. Once the hinge drops down you should be able to go up into the support frame, remove and replace it with another bolt.

Mahindra parts list calls it a hinge assembly. Normally you would simply tighten the nut onto the bolt that supports the front side of it and that clamps it onto the round support. So why doesn't that wotk in your case? Is the bolt out of threads and things are still loose? It's really a pretty...

Next time look for a place to bleed the engine. Looks like at least one plug on the thermostat housing near the temp sensor. Anything you can remove from the area just below the thermostat will let trapped air out and coolant flow into the engine. Never trust a thermostat to self bleed.

Water separator gaskets not sealed would be most likely cause. Does tractor have auxiliary fuel tank? That makes drawing fuel all the way up to the water separator all the more difficult.

Check your PM inbox

If you're happy with what you got for what it cost, that's all that counts.

If this is a typical right angle gearbox, an inch from top is too much. It should be closer to half full. That's where most gear boxes have the level plug.

"Modern" tractors, particularly the smaller ones, are basically all the same in this regard. They all share a common "safety" concept . Yet they're all different in how they go about it. They use different style switches, mount them in different places, wire them in slightly different sequences...

Personally, I don't care much for "kits" in this case. As I see it, kits are for people who aren't really sure of what they're doing. You buy what someone else thinks is what you need. But if you buy one you're at the mercy of what comes in the box. If it fits/works where and how you want it...

Looks more like a crankcase breather than anything hydraulic. And if it is, then no it should not have a plug on it.

More likely something to do with the seat switch. Another of those "Safety Sam" intervention circuits engineers are so proud of.

If it has a relief valve it will be in the lift valve circuit somewhere. If it were me, I would probably remove the banjo bolt from the lift housing end of the pressure line. swing the line out of the way enough to get a rubber tipped air nozzle sealed against the port. With bare lift arms...

Start with the basics. Is there anything other than the three point that uses hydraulics? Probably manual steering? You might start with checking to see if the pump is moving any oil. You can do that by loosening some bolts on the pump output line, or the banjo bolt securing the pressure line...

Cost of parts and materials will depend on what you want as a finished product, and where you shop. A single remote can be done for under $500 from some sources or $1000 or more from others. If you have a loader (with power beyond already) that's a good start. If you know what you're doing...

Now that I think about it more, I recall that TL 80 and TL 90 tractors had some problems because the valves were NOT convertible to single acting. I suspect yours would be the same. They most likely will be strictly double acting. As for the pump size, I don't recall that issue ever coming up.

I guess I misread your earlier post. I was thinking this was a TN 70, my mistake. On the TN tractors the remote valves are on the back stacked up just above the top link bracket, easy to get to. Most of the valves I see on those tractors have a stem on the back side with a 10mm hex head. That is...

I don't deal in snow plows so I wouldn't know where to start, other than this one possibility. You say it has small cylinders and small hoses. I'm thinking it may be designed to operate slowly. Possibly has restrictor orifices or fittings designed to reduce oil flow to a minimum just for that...

I don't know what others do, but I save it in old plastic oil jugs, same as I do waste oil of any kind. I don't deal much in old gas, it's mostly diesel. I mix any gas with diesel, and save that for use as parts wash. Once it's too dirty for that any more it goes into other jugs along with waste...

I see a good possibility the cylinder has an internal problem. I would suggest you contact whoever sold it to you and see what that gets you. New parts SHOULD come with warranty.

There is always a way to do that. More than one usually. What you do and how you do it are totally up to you. Some people insist on using all "factory colors" and "by the book" components. That works, if the parts are still available and in any way affordable. Others get "creative" and use...

Certainly Kubota expert, but looking at parts diagrams for steering cylinder on that tractor it shows the rod and piston are two separate parts. Rather odd design. Most cylinders of that type have them as one piece. I see two snap rings, each in groove on either side of the piston. If one of...

It seems to me I recently saw a post somewhere from an individual with a 4110 who was looking for a motor and having no luck. You might visit a few other sites (if you haven't already) and troll it out there. As for salvage yards, there are probably none that deal specifically Mahindra. That...

Looks like that's a side frame. The weld is a poor man's solution to bolts breaking and/or frequently working loose.

Mahindra's parts diagrams look like they were done by a first grader with blunt crayons. Just curious, but since doing all this work and parts replacements, have you solved the problem of keeping the filter bowl full of fuel while the "bogging down" is occurring?

Dumb question. Any idea how long the engine ran AFTER the line broke and before you figured out the pump wasn't getting any oil? Running a pump dry can do a lot of damage in a short time. Have you tried removing a line from the top of the pump and slowly adding some oil into it, then trying it...

It probably would if it had a good ground. You haven't mentioned checking that. The bolt securing the ground cable to the frame (wherever that might be) is a notorious connection issue if it's the typical short cable bolted to something near the battery.

No. Oil level is down lower than that. You won't loose any fluid.

It's just a gasket. No surprises back there. That's a cover for access to some of the power steering mechanism. Removing the cover and replacing the gasket will do you no harm.

I'm simply suggesting to disconnect the linkage because it might be easier to operate the mechanism from under the tractor that way. I'm not necessarily sure it will be, just guessing here. As I said, I don't know your machine, I'm going strictly on the parts list and your description of the...

I've never seen that model, and certainly have never worked on one. However, your description of the problem leads me to wonder about the gearing that drives the drive shaft you have removed and inspected. Mainly the mechanism the shifts the gears into and out of 4WD. A problem in that area...

Just guessing, but it seems like the problem COULD be as simple as replacing some copper sealing washers. It looks like you might be in this area? https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/78833/referrer/navigation/pgId/17585921

No. There are no O rings in the loader valve that have anything to do with holding up a load when spools are in neutral. Spool clearances and load checks do that. While your valve may play a small part in loader drift down, it's more likely a piston seal in one of the loader lift cylinders.

It might help to mention what model (and maybe what version of that) tractor and loader you're dealing with. And also what is that in your photo? Assuming you have a dedicated loader valve somewhere? Unless you currently have some unused valves, you may need two different additions in order to...

I have no stories of any consequence. I did my time in the USAF from 1968 to 1972. My first tour was to Wheelus Air Force Base near Tripoli Libya. That was cut short because some young upstart named Khadafi (or something like that) decided he would run the country for a while. He stated that...

Am I missing something? Absolutely. There is NOTHING in the aftermarket world today that will last fifty years. Products of that quality will likely never be seen again. That said, an alternator conversion (if done properly) will most likely serve you better and longer than current...

Most people would start with the battery when that happens. You replaced yours with a new one? Next step is cables/cable connections. Logical first step in that direction is the ground cable where it bolts to the tractor near the radiator. Very common reason for a sudden "no crank" condition...

I placed a couple of orders back in August. I got the same reaction. Couldn't get any response from requests, etc. They finally came through and the story was something about them moving all their stuff to a different facility and the turmoil created all the lapse and lag time. It was eventually...

You need to solve the air problem before blaming the pump or the people who worked on it just yet. Maybe you need to get a little "creative with a temporary fuel supply to eliminate some of the likely possibilities. I doubt the injectors have anything to do with that problem. Leave them alone...

Hi there. My Email is stillplayswithtractors@gmail.com. I think you sent that to me once but I can't find it anywhere in my downloads. I found a file on 52 5303, but I couldn't find the file that covers the front axle. Thank you for sharing.

I would be looking more toward something in the left brake than anything oil or air lock related.

I think I can agree with that. I won't know the condition of any of it until I get it apart, but since that's all the parts list shows, It makes sense that it must be pretty much self adjusting. I can't imagine there being this much slop back when everything was still in good shape.

That's stated in the manual, or just a guess? If that's all there is and it's sloppy loose, then something's wore out.

Once again I find myself in the "I've never done that on this model before" situation. I'm about to get off into repairing some oil leaks on the front axle, and noticed today that it's not just seals leaking oil from the center housing into the open knuckle area, but the spindle housings are...

Never mind about the photo. I see the screw you meant. Just relax and recuperate.

Any photos of the mystery screw?

I could be wrong here, but I don't think he's in the danger zone just yet. I suspect that what he did was turn the high idle up a bit. Maybe he will come back and explain it a bit more.

Maybe you adjusted the linkage too far. More free play means less total stroke. You might need that "little bit extra" down there to fully release the PTO portion of the clutch.

I've used large splitting stands for larger tractors, but now I no longer work on stuff that size. What I have suits my needs, and is easy to transport. I've seen the rail type systems, and I'm sure they have their place. Never used one, and probably never will. I can't see the advantage to all...

Okay, pardon my ignorance here. So you turned up the fuel. Can you explain just what did you adjust that had a tamper proof cover? This is where? on the injection pump? On the throttle control? On the governor?

Now there's the right answer. If the starter works "first time every time" when power is supplied to the start terminal on the starter, then battery, cables, or related connections are not involved. Problem is low voltage (as verified by OP in this case) to that start terminal. Usually caused by...

This is what I use. Pretty much all made from leftover iron and steel from various scrap steel racks. Different pieces of different lengths, all adjustable and bolted together to accommodate different size tractors. It all disassembles with a few tools so it's easily handled, and loaded for...

He has two issues. The brakes are dragging, and the clutch is slipping.

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/brake-shoe-new-john-deere-m801894-yanmar-150364.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw7oeqBhBwEiwALyHLM7V27yimE2lEHp_dA6kTUxLbJ--dXQNSwWMDr_EmaD1wVfkLEknZbxoC6p8QAvD_BwE That's just ONE. There are several.

Now you've done it. You know much of the "crybaby crowd" here absolutely abhor teflon tape in any form, for any reason.. That ought to spark some outrage. But I agree with you. That's exactly what I would do, provided the adapter and coupler threads are both tapered pipe thread. One would need...

"Then I removed the injection pump and had it rebuilt, installed it ran it on it's own". ??? If you paid someone (reputable) to do that, you shouldn't need to be here asking questions about what to do. As for that old wives tale about a bad injector leaking fuel into the oil? Buy into it...

No offense, but your tractor model (if that's what you posted) doesn't exist. It may be a 2015 year of manufacture but that,s not a tractor model. No one out here knows what you have so accurate information would be difficult to provide. Depending on just what model it is, the hydraulic...

I don't believe it is retained. The shoes clamped into place against it is probably all there is. If it's all rusted up inside your best bet is to strip off the shoes and press it out. Or clamp it in a vise and try breaking it loose with a large wrench. That might might work for you. I've had...

I wish you good luck my friend. My (limited) experience with TYM Mahindra joint built tractors has proved mostly fruitless. The two parted company at some point and neither will actively support their joint effort products any longer. I see a pump listed for that model for $1077.00. No breakdown...

Some photos of what you're dealing with and what you're trying to do will go a long way toward some meaningful answers. Until then whatever replies you get will be of little or no help to you.

I doubt it. Looks like it's just a snug fit in the case with two O rings. Screens can be stuck pretty tight if it hasn't been removed for years. May take some gentle persuasion and a few swear words.

Does the light go out if you remove the wire from sensor? You could have a wiring issue keeping the light on with or without oil pressure.

I still maintain that the check valves are just overly complicating the situation. If you have good supply from tank to filter base, then eliminate the vent hose entirely. Cap both ports it's now connected to, and go back to work. The issue will go away. It has in every case I've been involved with.

Top right corner of the page in the blue bar, next to your name. does the envelope have a red square with a number 1 on it? Click on that

Check your PM inbox

I think the solutions may well depend on how dedicated you are to keeping things "factory original" and keeping "Safety Sam" satisfied. I can think of a few "work arounds" that might help get you going, provided those concerns aren't more important to you than having a tractor that will start...

Once you raise the lift housing you can't tell anything. Start at the hole for the side cover. With engine off, you should see the roller move when you operate the levers. With both levers full up the arms containing the roller should be in the full raise (pump) position. as you move the levers...

No way to tell from out here just what alternator you have. Typically an electronic, alternator driven tach works off a circuit supplying a certain range of AC voltage. Not all alternators are (or can be) set up to do that. To begin with, you would need to know what the original 4110...

Might help get some answers if we knew if your tractor has a gear drive or hydrostatic transmission. Gear drive would lead one to the clutch first. Hydrostat could be more involved..

Once the springs and such come apart lots of things can go wrong before it's all back in proper order. The roller itself is the next question. You took the cover off without a manual? One of the first things mentioned in the manual is to remove the side cover and the roller before lifting the...

The pressure relief valve is no part of your problem. In fact, I doubt that anything you replaced is causing it either. You need to revisit the linkage and adjustments. Take the right side cover back off and observe what's happening in there when you move the draft levers up and down. You will...

The New Holland dealer in Shelbyville closed up? I wasn't aware of that.

You replaced the primer pump because of this problem or you now have this problem after replacing the pump? Your answer may help in diagnosis. A couple possibilities. Did you remove the banjo fitting from the supply hose coming from the tank? Did you check and clean the holes in the banjo bolt...

The three contact points on the release levers SHOULD be in unison as they touch the bearing face. The angle at which you're viewing them may affect your perception of distance, but if the bolt adjustment is off by much you will most likely notice it in the clutch action. The rounded head rolls...

"Looking as they should" isn't much comfort if you need to split the tractor for a new clutch as well as leak repairs. But yes, other than the oil, it does look like it would all function.

Mechanically. it all looks right to me. The exception would be the fresh oil drops I see working down around the cross shaft. That indicated some leaks above, possibly getting onto the clutch plate surfaces. Good reason for slippage under load. No adjustment for that.

Just back it off a 1/4 turn then jam it down tight.

On Massey tractors with live PTO (ASSUMING yours is live, not independent) the PTO and hydraulic lift pumps are driven through the PTO section of a two stage clutch. When/if that portion of the clutch fails, then both of those functions can stop at once. Pull the cover plate from the bottom of...

But where is the movement? It can be at the trunnion bearings where the spindle unit meets the center housing, or it can be in the wheel bearings and show up between the hub and spindle. Movement in the trunions won't directly affect the seal performance. The wheel bearings are a different...

Now that you see it's leaking, have you tried jacking that side up a little so the tractor weight is off the tire then shaking the tire to see if there's ANY play or movement in the wheel bearings? Any movement between the hub and the spindle assembly says you have more problems than a seal.

The thermostart unit is not 1/2 inch thread. Does the manifold have a blank spot with the swell in the casting intended for machining? If not the wall won't be thick enough or strong enough to support what is required.

So you're quite sure the problem is not in the shaft and/or couplings between the transmission and front axle? You have opened that up and confirmed that all shafts, couplings, etc are rotating together as they should? The noise you hear seems to be coming from the center housing or one of the...

Let's get this straight. It started and ran when you got it. You brought it home and it still started and ran. Then you changed the fuel filter and AFTER that it won't run? Or did you change the fuel filter BECAUSE it no longer ran?

There is no bolt there. Are you referring to the nut on the injector line itself? If so, and you think it's as tight as it will go, then do this. Loosen it back up. Jam it down tight. Loosen it again and jam it again. You will see the wrench will go a little bit further the second time than it...

I have no way to track your serial number. I'm just going on experience and model year 2000 sounds way too early for that series tractor. 2012 sounds much more likely. I don't see many 5045 models, the 5055e and 5065e are much more common in this area. If this were a tier 4 tractor I wouldn't...

Those cylinders are a true joy to work on. For some unknown reason (unknown to me at least) Mother Deere engineers decided to use a wire ring retainer to hold the gland unit in place, but they decided on a different twist. Instead of just installing it in a groove on the inside of the barrel...

I don't think the 5045e goes back to a 2000 model, but an early model (tier two emissions) will not have a lift pump. Just a hand primer on top of the filter base, and it won't click. This system relies on gravity and the transfer pump in the injection pump for the entire supply. The absence of...