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A lot has changed since the CDL's first came out, I also applied and was "grandfathered" in when I got mine. I agree but there is a country full of people who claim it's their Right. Actually I think it should go a step further, instead of showing up at the DMV and putting your money down...

Personally I think there should be "required" training or testing before anyone is allowed on the road with a trailer. Truckers over a certain size (which I don't agree with) must have a CDL, why not people towing trailers or owners of the big RV motor homes which is really a pet peeve of mine...

Not in any particular order: 1966 Chevy C20 long bed stepside. 292ci with 4 speed and 4.56 gear with factory overload springs. Mpg same loaded or empty, put over 300K on it before I sold it. Biggest mistake I every made. Always said if you could anchor it good enough you could turn the world...

Everyone has their opinion on which is best a QA or QH. Like so many others I prefer the Pat's for the simple reason it will connect to every implement without having to "mod" any of them. Simple fact is not all implements (which is a shame) are QH compatible so unless you are independently...

Your tractor and money is like your kids and money, there is always something .... But ain't it fun?

I don't know about the Bestco but for my Mott and New Holland flails using the Pat's is the best thing ever. SO much easier on this old man to get hooked up to them now.

Yes it has power steering, you can see the pump in one of the pics. Now how well it works is another question.

Depending on how far away you are and at $1000 I will buy it. OK, I checked on your listed location (about 400 miles) and I am definitely interested.

I have a Deck Dolly and while I like for what it is for the cost of his add-on I will just buy the Load N Go brackets at some point.

And if it is a side mount and the old dizzy has already been removed without marking the rotor location fun times are ahead if not familiar with timing an engine, WHICH he evidently is not since he is asking for help.

First make sure you have spark, more GOOD fuel systems have been screwed up by a bad ignition. Pull the coil wire and see if it has a nice snappy blue spark, lazy yellow or no spark at all. If no spark it could very well be the ignition switch as mentioned, use a wire to jumper from the battery...

The only thing I would suggest now is to try another gauge that goes to a higher pressure so you can see how high it actually is. The steps after that is to drop the pan to see what is/has happened to the pump itself to make that much pressure OR slowly remove coils from the old punger spring...

I have wanted one of the little dozers since the first time I laid eyes on one. Good think you had it handy.

Other than the usual things folks do with one, I mount my clay pigeon thrower on it

I have the 454 or 7.4L as it is known and other than some oil leaks I am to lazy to fix at 170,000 miles it is still as solid as the day it started life.

Sounds like you are getting on top of it. (y)

Yes, with the plunger out it should dump the oil out the bypass passage, just be clear remove the spring and plunger but put the cap back on. Don't worry if the engine has zero pressure for a few minutes at idle, the N engines can and have run on as little as 5 lbs. at full load for years. If...

No 15w40 is not to heavy, I was just wondering that's all. Just for giggles take the relief plunger out of it and see what pressure you get, it could be that when you changed the oil a bit of debris got past the plunger and plugged up the passage. Yes I'm reaching here but knowing the design of...

Just curious what weight oil did you put in it?

Impressive, I would like to have seen some "work in progress" pics and the tree before he started.

To check the relief spring tension, it should be between 44 and 46 ounces when compressed to 1.4".

I agree using a good quality buffer and high quality compounds will generally fix up most blemishes.

I'll second this, I bought one and the first day it looked like a pretzel and I was only raking up downed limbs at the edge of a tree line.

The 8N will handle the 6' bog just fine, YOU however, will need to pay attention to what you are cutting. If the tractor starts to choke down take smaller or half cuts, it is not necessary to make a full width cut every time. Do not let the area you are cutting get real tall. I spent a lot of...

Need a better pics of the engine itself, but what little I see looks like it might be a Ford 172 Industrial or its kin. They were made in both gas and diesel. However since it is a Ford block it should take a standard Ford starter that I am sure you can obtain from most any NAPA. I would not...

(y)(y)(y)

Aftermath of a hard day doing dog duties, barking at delivery people, patrolling the perimeter fence and checking in on what her people are up in between.

If you find the old gasket lets us know the result.

What does the old gasket have? I never throw away the old until I verify the new. Anyway it is common for some of the ports to be blocked off to direct the coolant flow. Most likely the blocked off holes your referring to were put there to clean out the block after it was cast.

Until you set the points to the correct spec it ain't gonna run right.

Points on a front mount distributor set at .015

I don't think anyone was saying it could not be done with an 8N, just making the point that without a live PTO it would be a royal PIA unless the wind rows were thin. A baler with a dedicated engine as mentioned would definitely be the better option IF the N was all you had to pull the baler...

Glad you got it running, these old tractors are stupid simple to work on. Getting lights, no sweat.

You are right the automotive solenoids have the small post grounded so you apply voltage to it to engage the solenoid. The N tractors solenoid, the small post has voltage applied to it internally from the battery cable and you supply the ground with the push button on the transmission.

Look on line and find a wiring diagram then rewire the tractor. They are simple to do (5 wires if it has an alternator and no lights) but the MOST important thing is to get the neutral safety wired and working for YOUR safety and anyone else who may try to use the tractor. I preach this on every...

You can do lots of things with an "N" tractor, but one of the things you might want to rethink is a hay baler. It can be done with an "N" but it will be LOTS of work because of the ground speed and non live PTO.

Leave it! There are a WORLD of N series tractors out there with starter bendix guts in the housing, plenty of room for em'. If you ever need to replace the clutch or build the engine you can get then out then.

I did not know until I was talking to my wife about Corvairs that she had one when in high school... and the engine fell out of it on the main street of town. At least she was going slow.

Cannot go wrong with a Tundra, if I ever need another truck it WILL BE another Tundra. For the record I get 18 mpg on local trip consistently and on trips have gotten up to 23 mpg. Got a solid 14 towing the travel trailer coast to coast and all places in between. YES I do baby it to get those...

Check for a missing heat shield between the tank and engine.

Might not be safe at any speed but I used to run with a guy whose father had what I believe was a 1965 Corvair Spyder. It had twin turbos, lots of chrome on the engine, custom interior and maroon metal flake paint. Talk about something that would scoot. He was proud of that car and took real...

13 month old pup, first ever snow... Yeah it was fun at first but it didn't take long before we were at the door wanting back in.

Worst time of year to install a new system for sure. We have had a few semi sunny days, just enough to know it is working and reducing draw from the grid. It has only been in for a shade over a month and we have a metering problem the installers have yet to fix so I cannot say positively how...

Please look the other way while I steal your idea, simple and easy design. I have been scrounging around to find metal to make one and for some reason never gave wood a thought.

Same here, we put all the toys back in the box, several times a day, then she removes them and to put them back where SHE wanted them. We pick em' up again and it starts all over. Ya never know which is going to be the toy of the hour, a ball, a fuzzy animal that needs plucking or squeak toy for...

Enjoying an impromptu Christmas serenade in the key of squeak

The county does as near next to nothing as possible to maintain the roads, unless doctors or lawyers live on it, but as for driveways all you need do is buy the culvert and they will pick it up, deliver and install it at no charge. They even provide all the gravel needed to put it in. Come...

Cold outside... give me my blanket and pet warmer pad.

Just putting this out there and my dog ain't in this... Not positive but I believe frame breakage on Ram trucks has been an on going problem for sometime now, at least in way higher numbers than the other brands. I cannot recall where I read the article but some owners were trying to get/force...

Sounds like you are trying to remove the hose from the banjo fitting, take the bolt out instead and the banjo fitting will come off with the hose.

Our pup scares herself ever time she lets one, funny watching her jump and look behind herself with the "What was that look" on her face. Fortunately not much smell.

Clean and change every time you change the engine oil and you will be good unless you are operating in a dust bowl.

Our solar install was finished up about 3 weeks ago... been cloudy and rainy everyday since. Even so the panels still generate some power.

Having to bleed it everytime sounds like a bad o-ring

Looks to be wearing a red Security shirt.

Ain't it the truth...

The plug on the back is the correct one.

New use for adjustable hammers

Personally I like the disc plows better than the mold boards, pull easier and can cut through about anything. As advised keep it greased.

Congrats (y) on the new to you tractor, I have ALWAYS like the little N's and if I had room would have another. As for the PTO cut the shaft, a little off of each end to get the length you need. At least a 6" overlap at its shortest length. The ORC is not needed for a sickle mower like it is for...

No experience with the UHMW but I can tell you the rubber edges are a waste of money. Years ago it was decided to installed one on a Cat grader I used for clearing roads, parking lots, etc. and I can tell you all it did was slick em' up and made it much worse than if the snow had been left in...

They have them listed but they have been out of stock for ever...

You have me stumped, when you find out what it is I want to know what you found.

Page from shop manual about thrust plate... If it is the gear area making the noise you should see some indication of where it is rubbing the block. Since the metal is in the engine oil and the gear on the cam is the only drive connection between the hydraulic pump and engine I feel that is...

I know you said you pulled the cam out of the engine and it all looked OK. My thoughts are that the cam is still the problem, did you check the thrust plate to be sure the cam is not moving back and forth? Did you see any wear marks in the area of the cam gear that drives the pump? This would...

Since that did not fix it that means the cam follower pin is worn down. You will need to remove the top cover and replace the pin. Not a hard job to do but you will need help removing and replacing the hydraulic top cover. Here is a pic of the same pin from an 8N I am referring to.

I won't use that stuff for anything, tried it once on the rear tires of a John Deere 318. The tires leaked down but the tread was to good to trash them, the tires still leaked down and when I finally got around to putting tubes (a little over a year later) in the rims were so rusted I was not...

Did not know what they were called, yeah it's a tough neighborhood... WOW!!!

Ever see this before? A first for me.

As stated, tighten it enough that you can turn it but it cannot turn on its on, plus be sure the little metal clip is under the rotor. They are easy to lose.

It is entirely possible to 180* out on the timing, I would set it a 0* on the flywheel then set the distributor to point at the opposite plug, chances are it will start. A good way to find out if you are on the compression stroke is to remove the plug and hold your finger in the hole, when it...

Mine sits in an open shed with concrete floor, it sits up on some blocks of wood. Other than some slightly faded paint it is fine, I do cover the slip clutch to keep any rain that might blow in off. As for stuff getting under it all I have ever found are spiders and leaves.

Are you sure it is leaking between the two? A lot of folks have had problems with the replacement shutoffs leaking, a known problem even with the OEM shutoffs. If it is the shutoff leaking you can take it apart and put new/better o-rings in

The JC-158 sounds more like a casting number but it still has one to many letters.

My SIL got his hands on some weights from a fork lift his company was scraping out and thought they would make good weights for the 1025R since I had mentioned how squirrelly it got on slopes. I think it turned out alright, using 4 of the 5 he got for a total of 580 lbs. so with the added metal...

The 2N tractor has a front mount distributor and the NAPA #CS35 is the correct point set for the tractor. Why do you think something has been changed?

There is nothing in the tank to adjust. Be sure to clean the sediment bowl on the inlet of the carb, clean the screen at the top of it and remove the inlet to check the screen on it. Then make sure the valve on the bottom of the tank is open at least two turns, remove the plug on the bottom of...

I would take another known good gauge and test the pressure.

This thread needs to go AWAY... I have not run into any ground nests for several years and since this thread started I have found two, luckily no stings :ROFLMAO:

Many years ago it was a common practice to put waste oil on gravel roads to keep the dust down. Trucks with spray bars would collect the oil from all the surrounding service stations/shops and oil down the county roads every year.

I won't go into the fuel system adjustments right now but I believe your problem may be ignition related. Check your spark, pull a plug wire to see if you have bright snappy blue or lazy yellow spark. If it is yellow then we need to figure out why. If it is blue then the ignition is fine and the...

OH NO THEY DON'T! Worst stings I ever received were while using a dozer, finally had to leave it and go back at night to get it. It sat an idled all day because they kept swarming it until after dark and even then I backed it away as quietly and gently as is possible with a dozer.

Either will work but I used 80W-90

The shifter is in the second pic just below the air cleaner, easy to miss. I sure did. I agree with you good tractors with a plow or disk just not a tiller.

Good to know it worked.

I will admit I missed seeing the Sherman shift lever and yes that will give it 12 speeds forward and 3 reverse but that still will not give it a live PTO. Plus the Sherman affects PTO speed as well so the machine is still not useful for running a tiller. The live PTO was an option with the 5...

Only OVER 50 years working and repairing Ford tractors, not hearsay, not forums, experience from BEFORE all the misleading on line information from people who think they know everything. The four-cylinder Ford 2000 tractor was very similar to the 601 Workmaster series of Ford tractors. It is...

DO NOT confuse the later model 2000 tractors with a 3 cylinder motor with the early 2000 tractors with 4 cylinders THERE IS A DIFFERENCE.

That is either a 63 or 64 model 2000, same tractor as the earlier 64x series tractors. It is a 4 speed transmission and it is not a live PTO. Good tractor and it is quite capable of running a bush hog but it must have an ORC and it ABSOLUTELY is no good for running a tiller, ground speed is to...

Yes we have them so bad I have said several times if any of the buildings ever burned they would never fall because of all the mud nests built in the walls and ceiling.

Back in the day most owners manuals had information on tune ups, adjusting valves, replacing clutches and many other things to repair the tractor. Good for you on bringing yours back to life.

No I sold it before I ever got back to check it out but I am almost positive it would have migrated down since it is a flowable grease.

:LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL::ROFLMAO: BTDT

I mow a little over 6 acres and all of it hill, stub yer toe at the house and pick yourself up at the bottom of it, anyway I have ruts and holes cause by moles. Must be an army of them. Sometimes it is like driving over plowed ground and the problem is everytime it rains it washes out some of...

I had one (3 point), neighbor has a pull type and talk about a heavy cutter... anyway for the bearings I packed in some corn head grease. Since it will flow somewhat when it becomes warm I figured it would reach the lower bearing since I did not want the fight of taking it apart. When I sold it...

There are several people that say using GL5 in the sump will damage the bronze but IMHO and many others that is pure BS. I have used GL5 in everyone of the old N tractors I have owned (mainly because it is easier to find than GL1) and never once had any damage to any of them. One thing for...

I always used straight diesel to clean them out, fill it and drive it. I just DO NOT run the hydraulic pump more than a few minutes since I do not feel like diesel has sufficient lubrication for the pump. Diesel in a hand pump sprayer to wash down the upper case helps.

I have the Pat's and so far they have been great, for me personally they work better than a quick hitch. To each his own, it can be a hard choice to make without having experienced each to find out what works best for you.

I am going to make a 'WAG' here and say that the idler pulley failed and they stuck whatever they had on hand and could make work, even if it was wrong. Redneck engineering.

The seals should swell to seal that tiny bit of a gap BUT I still put a TINY dab of RTV in there to be safe. Sounds like you have beat it into submission and are headed on the downhill. (y)

The 860/861 and the early 4000 (4 cylinder) are basically the same tractor other than the hood. Parts are completely interchangeable between the two. As a note the Workmaster is the 600/601 series tractor the 800/801 are the Powermaster.

Flywheel to crankshaft 75-85 Clutch to flywheel 12-16 No torque is specified for the block to transmission housing in the service manual, use a standard torque chart to determine the values.

I firmly believe in converting to 12V, I just do not believe in the electronic ignition conversions. Converting to 12V is child's play, a GM alternator, a little wire, battery and coil is all that is needed. No need to change the starter, everything else stays the same.

First you do have it neutral, right? Make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Next try by passing the solenoid and see if it cranks if it does the solenoid is bad and you must get a solenoid made for the 8N. They are different in that they are internally hot and the push button switch...

Today I received the Wicked toothbar I ordered June 30, it may even be one from the video (Just guessing, I NEVER have been on or ever will be on Fartbook) I was going to wait to install it tomorrow but decided I couldn't wait. This thing should be called BEAST, heavy, very well made and fit the...

Since you say it uses a shear bolt, soak it with penetrating oil for a few days and smack it with a hammer every now and then as well, then run it without the bolt in. It will loosen up, probably just rusted up. Some yokes used with a shear bolt also had a small hole that a roll pin went in...

That is how I remove just about all races anymore, so simple and it really does not that big of a bead.

Looks awfully much like a LandPride I once had.

A fella I worked with got his wedding band and a wrench across a 12V battery. Almost lost the finger.

The thing being overlooked is that they can control the emissions from one power plant better than they can from hundreds or thousands of internal combustion engines. Years ago when I worked at the local coal fired plant each morning they would fly a small plane though what was coming out of the...

Not a good pic but you can get the idea:

Glad you got it figured out... always a PIA trying to correct something screwed up by someone else.

First as was mentioned by another it takes the strain off the internal brake (if equipped) on the PTO, the tractors PTO stops while letting the drive line coast to a stop without trying to turn the tractors stub. Also as I stated I have had a slip clutch NOT SLIP when it was suppose to due to...

The only way I know of and this applies to the later 8N tractor but should the same for the 850, is the sector gears have or should have a dimple or dot indicating the center gear tooth to line up the gears to each other. Another suggestion and probably the best would be to remove the orbital...

First I prefer the PTO on the tractor to stop when I turn it off and not coast down with the cutter. Second its another weak link in the PTO drive line to fail before something expensive in the tractor gets damaged if happen to hit something that should not and not rely entirely on the slip...

I like to run an ORC even on a tractor with an independent PTO but that's just me.

Toyota replaced the frames of those affected with the rust problems, was a time you could see stacks of frames behind dealerships that had been replaced.

I heard that both a Tundra and Taco are in the works, don't know how long will have to wait. I too might be interested but giving up my 5.7L Tundra would be hard to do. As for trucks under the 10K limit, I was looking for a 1 ton flat to use on the farm. After LOTS of travel (3 states) and...

Absolutely

Never took mine back, cannot see loading it up for making two 100 mile round trips (once to take it and then to pick it up) for maintenance I can EASILY and should be doing myself and it has never had anything that required warranty or repair from the dealer. From what I have read on line...

I finally got a call back from my dealer, he said they only were doing the recall AFTER the valve cover had broke and they where then putting in a new engine. Makes no sense to me, refuse to replace an air cleaner system that cost them probably less than $100 but replace the engine when it...

That is a typical noise made by the overrun clutch which you MUST have on the tractor if you run a bush hog or other similar type of equipment for yours and every ones safety. I usually replaced mine if/when they got to having a lot of looseness/slop. The way to make sure this is your problem is...

I have already ordered the parts ($230) to make the repairs myself, it just irks me that JD thinks so little of their customer base to treat us that way. I know I will remember this when I look for another tractor, will it stop me from getting another JD? Probably not but it might.

It has come to my attention that John Deere had a repair/update for the air cleaner mounting on the 1025R. Seems the air cleaner mount was breaking the valve cover allowing dirt and debris to get into the engine. This has apparently been know for sometime and John Deere was replacing the mounts...

You'll get there, I'm wait for the post that says it's running

Know I prefer the disk plow to a moldboard.

When I had work done on the New Holland 918H it was done by an old machine shop but then again they also did driveshafts too but I would check with any machine hop in the area, ya never know... might get lucky.

This is timely, I noticed concrete spatters all over one of my new garage doors last year after having some work done and have been trying different things to get it off. The Larry, Darrel and Darrel of concrete work were not very careful it appears but when that is all you can get living out in...

Dry ice is your friend for keeping it cold and as for keeping the key in the shaft use a center punch and make dimples on the side of it, the part that sits in the cam. The dimples will swell it (key) slightly it will stay in better, I prefer this to peening the $$$ shaft. I, like you, think...

I just did them on my 1025R yesterday and called it a LOT of names before I got everything just right to grease the one at the engine.

My SIL had a near perfect 8N (one of the last ones built in 1952) he sold and I am still mad at him for doing it. The 8N is not a fancy tractor. It does not have all the bells and whistles of the new plastic machines, it is just a solid, nimble little tractor that can do most any job asked of it...

I do as well but prefer to have it all under roof, gotta add more roof if the price of things ever gets back closer to normal.

Can I deduct the tractors as a medical expense? physical therapy? I feel much better after spending a few hours in the seat, so much more effective than the chronic pain scripts I'm on.

SWMBO putting out fresh hummer chow. Had about a dozen of them but hard to count when there is a dog fight going on for a seat at the buffet.

I've used 1/4" chain on every one I have ever made, I had/have a LOT of old 1/4" chain layin around for some reason and it has worked well.

We have many solar lights, get for not having to run electric lines and they put out a nice bright light. When they quit working usually it is just a matter of replacing the battery. Some are over 10 years old and still going strong, just not with the OEM battery.

Here it is nearly 6:30 pm and the temp is 95 with heat index of 108... pup wants OUT until she actually gets there then it's LET ME IN!

Dead earthworms here, go figure...

After doing all that surely there is not much left to go wrong unless you have blown a gear box. I replaced the seals in a fine cut Mott SD74 I picked up and it has been a good cutter ever since. I did notice one of the roller bearings has developed slop but hey that's just part of the cost of...

Should be able to pick up a clutch at your local farm store, most do carry them.

Cell phone or not, still fantastic detail in that second pic.

If it has been converted to EI then it must run on 12V, safest bet on the coil is to replace it with a NAPA IC14SB that does not require a resistor. I would suggest that if you have the points and condenser putting them back in to be sure the EI is not the problem. Putting squirting more fuel in...

It's just a fact of life IF you have livestock or any living animal in a fenced in area, whatever is kept in said fence WILL at some point in time get out.

You have eliminated the fuel system components so I am going to go with it IS NOT the fuel system, run a wire directly from the battery to the coil (hot wire it) and see if it still dies after a minute. I am going to guess the problem is the ignition switch, ignition resistor or wiring is bad...

I definitely got the "Who, who are you" from him.

Good luck with that, before I sold my finish mower I replaced the tires and tubes, one of them did not even make a dozens rounds of the field before the tread separated and blew out. I finally bought some Stens 4 ply from Amazon that were holding up good and still are as far as I know since my...

I do the same, had to many fence get saggy from staples only. On another note I have spent a mint on trying to keep buttercups killed out, they are toxic to horses and all the fields around me are FULL of them. Never ending battle.

Here are some of a visitor we had at our back door just before warm weather got here...

It's already split on one side now split the other, it WILL come off.

The early 4000 is the same as the 800 series and early 2000 are the same as the 600 series, they all used basically the same parts with the exception being the rear end housing that is bigger and heavier in the 800/4000 than the 600/2000 tractors. The industrials also have a heavier front axle...

Pretty much a guarantee it will have an oil cooler but when you get a leak there it usually puts the oil into the radiator since the hydraulics are higher pressure than the coolant.

Early or late model? Really no harder to repair than anything else on the N tractors, just pay attention to the timing of the sector shafts as you tear it down. You'll save yourself a lot of headaches by doing so.

I would check the battery cables themselves, I have seen where corrosion broke down the cable inside, out of site.

I understand about the money priority thing and about them being more than pets, BTDT, but the only way you are going to make it better is fewer heads or more ground. There are no easy answers but the bottom line is you are going to have to put the horse to acre ratio more in line. Do you have a...

RV anti-freeze is another option that is readily available.

I sure you already figured this out but the problem is there are to many animals for the available space. IMHO you should have at least 1 acre per head, when our horse were still alive they had 2 acres per and at times that was not enough especially if we had drought conditions, the opposite of...

Small dogs do tend to like using their Bark-O-Lounger

New pup making herself at home, acts like she has always been a part of the family. Fully in charge of the fur face entertainment department.

LandPride i show I would go if I were to be looking for a finish mower. Sold my bought used 6' last year for what I paid for it 30 years ago. Other than a few rusty spots where the paint had come off it still looked like the day I got it and all I ever did was put a belt on 2 years ago and a new...

But it fit on the trailer so it MUST be able to haul it... :devilish:

My oil pump plate looked a lot like that when I tore it down, you should now be good to go with yours. Cam gear, one word "Press" I never had much luck with the hot oil thing. I have heard of folks using a piece of pipe and a BFH but I don't like beating on things especially if they are...

I would guess he is located in an area with a lot of sandy, gritty soil and it is the abrasive action of the dust and dirt that caused the wear. Just my guess since neither my Alamo or New Holland 918H show wear that extensive after MANY hours of use.

Well said

Is it from a 62' to 64' tractor with a 4 cylinder engine? If it is then it will bolt up but be advised you will be putting 40+ HP on a differential designed for 30+, but as long as you do not try to do anything dumb with it it should be alright.

That is why I NEVER use anything but ear plugs when working, on a tractor you are more than likely going to hear something going wrong before you see or smell it.

Sorry to hear about the foot but a sore foot is better than it could have been. I threw the PAL nuts away on mine, a properly torqued nut is gonna stay put. Sounds like you have my luck when dealing with vendors, if something is wrong or messed up I get it. Other than major gaskets, like head...

It is a shame you are not closer I have a good gear box and I think I have the pulleys and shafts as well.

Yep, my new trailer (last year) had to be titled and this spring I got the annual registration notice in the mail but it it was $0.00

I watched one last year being used in an open area of a cemetery, they spent more time getting it unstuck and moving again than it did mowing. Frustration set in and they gave up using it and used a ZT to finish the area.

I store mine in the same position as pictured and it WILL leak from the vent. I just take the vent out and put in a plug for while it is stored and change back to the vent when used. I also keep the vent stored on the gear box in a plastic bag so I don't forget to switch.

It has been said before but I think designers and engineers should be MADE to work on anything they design before it could be sold. Bet if that happened you would have access/room to work without having to strip half the vehicle to work on it.

No word for a while now, do you have it running ???

I have the 4' that my FIL had that I use quite often and will say when you need one there is no better tool to have but a LARGE dose of common sense is a must as is with any tool.

Yes I would have bought one if it had been around when I bought my last ZT. Check this unreal test of this machine,

The fender, what little I can see, looks like to me like the ones used on the late 60's tractors but it is just a guess since it is a poor pic to try to identify a tractor.

There are 2 4000 series, the early model used a 4 cylinder the later model used a 3 cylinder. Makes a big difference in parts and tractor, the pic looks like a later model from what I can see.

Ford 172 uses a 4 psi cap and the radiator should have JUST enough coolant to cover the top of the core.

If the side seals do not come up flush with the bottom of the cap then a tiny bit of #1 or #2 Permatex or even RTV to fill the gap is fine. Just be sure they are fully inserted and bottoming out. Your correct they always seem to grab before they get fully seated, these give me more trouble than...

I prefer the 3 wire alternator myself but a 1 wire is fine just remember you have to wind them up a bit before they will start to charge. Usually about 1100 to 1300 rpm before they start charging will a 3 wire will start charging just off idle. But, yes you can remove the regulator.

NO! do not do anything to the side seals, they are designed to swell when they come in contact with oil. Slide them in dry just make sure you get them all the way in, I seem to always have a problem getting them completely seated and usually go through a set or two before I get them right. Don't...

Jub is a good old tractor, just a little care and it will last your life time. Thing about the old tractors is they may not have all the bells and whistles of the model tractors but they are simple, easy to work on, built of heavy metal and will get the job done. Plus will still be around long...

All you need to replace is to put an alternator on, the coil will be fine with a resistor or you can change it to a coil with the resistant built in like the NAPA IC14SB to simplify the wiring. The solenoid and starter need not be touched they will work fine on the 12 volt system just don't...

Not really sure the purpose of those rubber pieces, I do know mine does not have them and I have had no issues of any kind and hold REALLY good oil pressure. As far as oil flow once the hole fills with oil from the pump it should be no different than if the rubber pieces were in there so it is...

That's the one

Have you replaced the cam follower pin? What you describe is a symptom of it being worn out or missing.

First thing is soak the rope in oil, one of the biggest mistakes made by folks is failing to soak the rope. When installing it in the block compress the rope as much as possible while pushing it into the channel of the block, I like to use a large socket to help roll it in place, this is where...

I personally prefer the rope seal BUT ya gotta know how to do it right to prevent leaks. I have actually had more problems getting the little side seals for the cap leaking than I ever had with the ropes. As a note my SIL used the newer style on his when he rebuilt it and has a leak. Not sure if...

Treat it like a gearbox on a bush hog, fill it with Corn Head grease also known as NLGI #0. It is a near fluid grease and it won't leak. I get mine from John Deere plenty cheap enough.

They should be plugs, no orifice, the pump gear lubrication is from what comes pass the cam and its bore in the block. Like you I would have thought they would have put a small orifice to provide lubrication for that gear and one in the front for the governor.

Pull the side shafts and see how it turns without them, if it turns easy then replace one at a time, could be the side shafts are binding or the adjustments are to tight.

The new shaft should NOT be any more difficult to turn than the old one. Looks like they have updated the worm gear on the shaft, I assume you also upgraded the recirculating nut and ball bearings to match the upgraded shaft? In fact it looks to me like the newer shaft should turn easier...

Pulling a 2 bottom plow is what the Jub was designed for, a 14" works best, a 16" depending on soil can at times be a bit much. The Jub will plow all day long for as long as you want. In fact once you get good at it it can be quite enjoyable. If you want a plow to make plowing almost idiot...

Your Welcome... You did the research 👍, it is sad so many issue an opinion/bad information about things like this without ever bothering to check. Just because it is a Cat 1 and the implement will mount to the tractor does not mean it will work.

Reminds me of one I encountered last week. The trailer had a 4 door sedan on it and the trailer had obviously been overloaded at some point since the tires had that stylish cocked in at the top and out out the bottom that were slick. Not a light one on the trailer, all had been broken off and...

A Jub or NAA will most definitely NOT run a tiller, this question is asked so often it should be on the startup page of browsers but you don't know till you ask. The gearing in the Jub and any of the hundred series tractors that do not have the SOS transmission have a ground speed that is to...

I really doubt it but anyone with time, a torch and welder can make anything work.

I have an old electric Kracher 1800 psi big box store washer that I still like to use on thing not needing the high pressure of the 4000 psi gas powered one. I use Purple Power in a pump garden sprayer, a quick soak and then hit it with the washer. Removes the grease and oil quickly, just do not...

9 out of 10 fuel problems are ignition related. Pull a plug wire and check the color of the spark, is it blue and snappy or yellow and weak sounding? If it is yellow it's your ignition system, try running a hot wire from the battery to the coil and check the spark again. This will eliminate the...

Long story short, you have to have a shorter top link.