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Before the days of laser-leveling devices, folks used a line and level...and accomplished the task at hand. I think that on sand, working slowly and very deliberately, you will end up with a decent job. Good luck and send some pictures of the project as it's going--I might have to do it myself...

It appears that I am but one of the many with similar problems. This year--one of the wettest in the last 50+ years is the worst I've ever seen it, as the before and after pictures will show. (...and yes, the bladed did get a needed sharpening, and I'll be getting a new set this year.)

That sounds more likely to me as well. Before you start tearing it down, you may want to find someone who can do a test on the crankcase oil. I agree that running it will likely cause catastrophic failure...sooner than later.

If it's "hard" plumed with 1" iron, are you sure it was set for propane and not natural gas?

They also have pretty easily attached/detached loaders and mowers. I run a B series--a bit more tractor--and can swap out either item in a matter of a few minutes. I had the loader on and off three times in four days last week without breaking a sweat.

Buying the right thing the first time is generally a money-saving event. I would have been better served just biting the bullet the first time and not dealing with the stress of a "bargain" that cost me a lot in repairs and aggravation over the years I had it.

I run a Kubota B2301. It handles my finish mowing of about 4 acres and about another 5 or 6 with a rotary cutter without a problem. I have rented an excavator when needed, and it has proven to be a LOT cheaper than buying a backhoe for the tractor--it also is more versatile. Don't avoid...

I have used 6013, 6011 with a fair degree of success, but for penetration and more holding power, prefer 7018, which is available for an AC machine. As the quoted post says, just about any machine running on 220 should do the job. I wouldn't try it with a 110 machine.

I have to agree that the most economical choice would likely be a high-end rear-mounted, PTO driven mower. You can choose the width that best fits your property and is within the power rating of your tractor.

Mine was in the crate when I bought it. Assembled and delivered only after I'd agreed on the purchase. Not a problem to this day.

My normal advice is always "SHOP THE DEALER." If you can't get good service, the best of tractors can become a problem. I have learned--the hard way--to make my decisions based upon that as the primary criteria.

I'm never worried about the age of diesel fuel. A bit of conditioner is never a bad idea and an algae preventative--due to quality control/contamination concerns can't hurt if it's really old. From what I gather from other diesel users (I've had no issues), algae seems to be a concern only with...

My thoughts exactly! :):)

Notwithstanding my recent post on the DeWalt (I did enjoy using it) I'll likely never own anything but Stihl. My second choice would by the Husqvarna. I've owned Homelite and Pioneer saws in the far-distant past, but nothing compares to Stihl and Husky

My son has a 14" Kobalt. He has quite a few batteries, and makes use of them all. I guess it's all a trade off: size, weight, run time....

I only had the DeWalt die on me one time, and that may have been for low oil, as it seemed to be positional. I cut on and off for about 8 hours and went through 3 batteries. It would have been 3 or 4 tanks of fuel in my saw, I'm sure.

I've not been a fan of electric chainsaws, or other battery-powered equipment, but I've had to moderate my thoughts a bit. In the last six months I've been involved in two projects, both working out of rented 50-foot buckets, cutting a lot of problem trees. The first time, I was using my Stihl...

I must agree with renting an excavator (assuming you have them available in your area). You'll do more with a small to mid-sized excavator in less time than a tractor-mounted hoe. Overall, you'll save more money and always have a running machine when you need it. The only downside of doing it...

Old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill...almost every time! Oldnslo for the win!

That seems to be the commentary I'm hearing and seeing among those who use tools for either day-to-day professional or hobbyists. The Icon has had some very favorable reviews from some pretty heavy-hitters in the automotive field.

The newer Kubota mowers go on and off pretty quickly. I've never been overly impressed with the rear-mounted finish mowers, especially on uneven ground.

I would add a set, or two, of vice grips. Other than that, it looks pretty well equipped.

I had a 034 that was hard starting. Someone suggested blowing the vent lines clear. I did that with moderate pressure air and if fixed the problem.

I'm a frequent advocate of renting the right tool for the job as opposed to buying something that you can stretch and make-do for a bunch of jobs. I'd rent an excavator for time necessary to do the digging--it'll be faster than a small tractor-mounted hoe; then rent a skid-steer to do the...

All the suggestions regarding impact drivers, breaker bars or even 3/4 drive are valid. I suspect that whoever put the lugs on over-tightened them to begin with. Once you get them off, use some never-seize and torque to--not over--spec. You should never have that problem again.

I have no experience using any fillers, but the "run them until they fail" thought seems to have worked for a lot of farmers over the years. I've seen some very ugly looking tires run a L---O---N---G time before failing.

That series of MF tractors was a solid and dependable workhorse. The downside is that today everyone wants four wheel drive utility tractors, so the market is a bit depressed on the 2WD, no matter how solid and how versatile the tractor may be. I'm thinking the $7-8K price is a good place to...

My boots never seem to stay on their respective fittings when I have the loader off the tractor. I've just resigned myself to having to clean the fittings each time I put the loader back on.

I like your style! Zip ties are the current high point in the evolution of fastening technology: bale string, duct tape, now zip ties!

That would likely be the safest option of all. Even if you wreck the U-joint, it's the least costly thing to replace.

If you can afford it, and if you really can make use of it, an excavator is nice to have--I'd love to have one, but can't justify it. I can rent one when I need it and not worry about maintaining it and storing it when it's not being use.

I have a similar situation with my Kubota, but it only becomes a problem if I'm backing up on very uneven ground. If you can lift the arms by hand when the mower is down, it will not hurt to lash them up. How you do that might be interesting, but it shouldn't hurt anything.

My normal statement is "shop the dealer!" As long as the dealer has a solid reputation for parts and service, it really doesn't matter if it sells one or two brands. *M7* dealer sells Kubota and IH-Case. They service both well and stock parts to provide for both. The local Kioti dealer also...

Jumping onboard with the majority of the comments...DON'T DO IT! I see nothing but trouble, for all the above reasons...and likely a few more.

If I recall correctly, many older Farmall models were designed to run on gasoline, kerosene or distillate. Some of them, I think, had dual fuel tanks. I think they all had to be started on gas...or maybe distillate, and then could be switched to kerosene. I can't find my reference book with the...

I put together a complete Oxy-acetylene rig with pretty good sized tanks and a cart for about 300 bucks, all from FB marketplace. About $50 bucks for two complete gauge/torch/hose combos, $100 for a full acetylene tank, and another hundred for a full oxygen tank, a small acetylene tank and...

Got that right!

I am another Star-Tron fan; but I don't think that'll help with any great amount of water. A LOT of dry gas, MAYBE.

My pickup lives outside so that the tractor can live inside. Be sure you run out all the fuel you had in that tank, without running it out of fuel, of course. A few years back, there seemed to be a bad bunch of fuel in the area and EVERYONE was having fuel gelling or icing at temps that...

If the tractor is going to be kept in outdoor or unheated space, having a trickle charger on it will most likely prolong the life. It's more likely to be at full power on those cold mornings when you need the tractor to start.

My 2301 does that. You have about 3-5 seconds to flip the seat over as you dismount.

In some states, unless you're engaged in agriculture as a primary income, you cannot legally take a tractor on the road. That opens all sorts of insurance liability issues.

Agreed. Those small tires are not friendly at highway speeds. It might make one long distance trip...might not.

No extra pieces? I'm truly impressed!

If you're going to go with the TLB option, I would only add that a Kubota B series would be my preference over the BX. More mass--mass is your friend unless you're working on extremely soft ground.

I've done that as well with no problems to chain or bar. It's a good way to consume those orphaned containers of oil.

I had a front tractor tire I could NOT keep inflated. I ended up putting tube in it. Not the ideal solution for everyone, but it took care of my problem.

You have spoken volumes!

Here's a good video about tongue weight distribution. Also, be sure that your truck is rated for the combined weight of the trailer and tractor, AND that your trailer is rated for the weight of the tractor.

If you can tolerate yet one more opinion... You've had some excellent advice. I'll start by saying SHOP THE DEALER! Check with other tractor owners and see how they have fared with the dealerships you have in mind. One writer suggested either a Kubota B or L series and I concur. They are about...

I'm in agreement with replacing the whole package: hose and fittings. I'd also start looking at the other hoses and maybe replace one or two each year as a precaution.

Sounds like a great deal--hope it remains so. You'll not be disappointed with that tractor. A neighbor has one with all the toys for it and gets a lot of use from it.

My wife's car and the tractor get the garage. My truck stays out. Something about an open cab on the tractor makes it necessary.

I'm a fan of zip-ties... I have had the same problem when mowing some heavy trashy fields. Since I started using the ties, I haven't lost a single one.

That's something not often understood. Though loaded tires are generally a big help, they don't offset the front end load the way some sort of rear ballast or rear-mounted implement does.

When I bought my B2301 a few years ago, the salesman specifically cautioned me about using anything but Kubota hydro fluid. I could use other brands for the engine, but NOT the hydro/hydraulic system.

The advice I almost always give out is SHOP THE DEALER! The color so often doesn't matter and lower price doesn't mean a thing if you can't get good service.

This seems to be the most comprehensive answer, so I'll add nothing more except to say that I had the "little brother" to that tractor, a 15 horsepower built by Iseki. It was about bulletproof!

That would agree with my experience.

Since you've got some experience with tractors, you probably know this already, but SHOP THE DEALER! if you can get parts and service, and trust the service department, you will have headaches.

I'm chiming in a bit late, but will toss in my two cents worth anyway...thought much has already been said. Rent a big enough excavator to do all it can do--and that is a lot--in a short time. Then, rent a dozer to do what the excavator couldn't do. Then, figure out what you need yet to do and...

Here's an update on my project: After finally getting a bit of weather in which I could do my spraying, I hooked the unit on the tractor, put some water in the tank and fired it up--NOTHING. Well, the pump motor ran, but nothing came out. I double checked the polarity on my connections just to...

I was taught to NEVER add acid to a battery once the initial filling was completed. Probably the danger from hydrogen gas is the reason--a very good reason. Batteries are expensive, but a new shop and a stay in the hospital are "expensiver."

I'll double down on a couple bits of advice you've already been given, and add a bit from my own history. Go bigger: moving up from the sub-compact to the compact will save you headaches in the long run Buy your 5th tractor first--I really like the way he explained that Shop the dealer--my...

Years ago, a retired Forest Ranger her in NY told me that you can burn more wood faster--and with less smoke--with a few small fires than on HUGE one. I suspect the principle applies even to the large logs...but it'll take some experimenting to get it right.

Took on a project. With a couple hundred feed of stone driveway to rid of weeds two or three times each year, I was getting tired of the seven or eight trips it took with the two gallons hand-pump srayer. So, last year, I picked up a 15 gallon electrip sprayer made for ATVs...but I have no ATV...

A mini-ex is more stable on nasty ground--where you'll get a wheeled tractor buried quickly. If you can afford buying one, getting your use out of it and then parting with it or keeping it for the rainy day, you'll be better served.

A friend did the job the "hard" way. He cut all around the base of the shrubs with a recipricating saw and a stout blade, then yanked them out with his truck. It worked for him.

I have a small Christmas tree farm and punched a lot of holes in the turf tires of my previous tractor. I opted for R4s on the new tractor and have had 3 years without a flat.

My normal response to all such questions is "shop the dealer." If you can't get parts and service conveniently and with a good attitude from the shop, buy a different brand.

I don't know that tractor at all--not many around here--but if it has a settling bowl in the fuel line, there is likely a filter in that which may be stopped up. If so, that could cause intermittant problems.

Throwing my 2 cents in (somewhat late): The difference between a BX and B 23 horse is pretty big, I have the B-2301, my neighbor has a BX; big difference between the two. His my be a bit nimbler, mine will pull harder. With loaded tires, the B 2601 handles the loader and anything else I've asked...

I will mount my usual soapbox: Shop the dealer. No tractor/mower is any good if you can't get parts and service reliably.

If the work situation in which you use it will allow for it--without smashing glass out of it on a regular basis--get the cab. My situation won't allow it or I'd have one.

When you get them for free, a thousand bucks is a reasonable number to put into into it to get it home (on a roll-back), into a warm and dry garage near all your tools. Nice find for a great price!

I think I'll put a shovel like that on my Christmas list!

My dad repaired farm equipment from his own shop in the rural upper Hudson Valley farm country. There was a lot of old farm equipement he either had on his shop or repaired in the field. Old Cletrac crawlers, early Farmalls with steel wheels, all dating back to the early 30s maybe into the late...

It is a unique artform. Plan to always back as straight as possible and that will help. Turning corners in reverse is a delicate operation. The only one rule has already been said: the wagon goes in the direction the front wheels are pointed. When I worked on a farm as a teenager and as a...

That's why you carry your pistol, so you don't have to run back to the house for it!

I'll double down on a couple great comments already given: 1. Shop the dealer. If the one guy feels slimy, he problably is! 2. I'm not good enough on math, but the lower cost and the 3.99% interest might cost you more over 6 years than the high price at 0.0% 3. I'm a fan of renting the right...

Admittedly, I have not read all the comments, so I me be dublicating some. Shop the dealer. If the service is no good, no tractor will be totally satisfactory. Mass is your friend. Assumiming two machines of near-qual horsepower, you can get more work out of the heavier one--1000 pounds makes...

Simplest...and cheapest...solution is better ear protection. Do the research on the decibel level.

Be careful when you say "old, old" on those old Farmall C tractors! They're my age or only a bit older!

Run a jumper cable from the battery to ground. A couple folks have already suggested a ground issue and this will prove it one way or the other.

Age tends to bring wisdom. Sometimes it's from surviving our own mistakes, sometimes from seeing the mistakes of others. One thing I've learned is to always have someone knowing where I am. Cell phones generally make that possible--though in the mountains, maybe not. One of my friends, who...

I have to totally agree. The "pig in a poke" aspect of used tractors, especially when they seem like seem like really good deals makes it doubly important for the buyer to beware. I hope that neither of these options are from the dealers that sold you the last couple bargains!

A paraphrase from a nearby auctioneer: don't expect a $4500 compact tractor to perform like a $10,000 compact tractor! There are deals to be had, certainly, but LET THE BUYER BEWARE!

One caution no one else made: Never, NEVER rig up anything to pull from the the three point hitch. That gives a high hook point and can quickly flip your machine over backwards.

You really have to decide how often you're going to use those big pieces. Particularly the backhoe...and how effective it would be if mounted on a tractor. I'm a fan of stacking up a pile of work and then renting a tracked excavator. Chances are that for a grand you'd accomplish a LOT of...

Tossing in the same comment I make so often: shop the dealer. A shop that will keep you running without breaking the bank is is worth a bit more on the purchase price.

I have to agree with the radiator shop method. I guess the problem would be finding such a craftsman who is reliable. Good luck on that.

I put Stabil in my fuel cans when I buy the fuel. I add a bit of Star Tron about ever-other time I fill the tanks on all my small gas implements. That generally prevents any problems. I do tend to run the smaller implements dry before I put them away for the season.

Before I put some sub-surface drainage in, I had to have my wife drag me and my B-2301 out of a spot we used to call the "rice paddy." Embarassing, but no damage done.

:cool: :cool: :):oops:;)

My dealer suggested 20-30 minutes. I've only needed to use it a couple times and the Kubota B 2301 starts right off.

I'm small potatoes, just one diesel, but treat cut the winter fuel with about 1/3 kerosene AND add a conditioner. I only use about 10 gallons in a bad winter, in the summer, about 10 gallons every two weeks, so I keep it pretty fresh except in the winter

For what it's worth, I grew up in my dad's farm equipment shop and saw a LOT of the old Oliver and Farmall tractors, as well as a few Ford, Fergusson, and even a few JDs. I recall not ONE incident of a stuck clutch. All this in a day that most machines were kept outside. Wonder why it's an issue...

A friend had a little 110 volt flux-core mig machine that would produce nice looking welds, but had virutally no penetration. That would be my guess on that weld.

Sounds like you're looking for an excuse to build something :cool: , so maybe fabricate a shield to fit the drawbar. That should ensure no log would get away and try to push you.

In the final analysis, this is likely the best advicie. There will be no proving that it wasn't working if when the dealer took it in; certainly no proving that he tampered with it. Run your tractor and maintain it well. If this is something that is going to trouble you every time you get on the...

Though cable may be the right thing for some applications, I think a chain--or pair of chains as already suggested--is the better option.

I think that there have been some pretty clever solutions--I really like the "drill a hole" option.

I did a lot of work with an old 510 JD and found the shuttle, with a foot throttle a virtually unbeatable combination for steady loader work.

My brother burns used oil...doesn't care what kind it is--in his shop. It makes a good excuse for a ride to see him. I bring the oil, he makes the coffee. Good enough deal for me.

Towing my B-2301 I used one chain on the back, through a draw bar clevis. Two ratchet straps on the front, never had an issue.

I've been a Break-Free guy for years. Started using it on guns and it ended up on about everything else. I've also gone back to just an basic oil can for some applications. It's not as active as the modern ones, but there's something satisfying about the old tunka-tunka-tunka, of putting a...

From the picture, I'd have to agree that this would be the best option. I would not trust the best weld on that crack. The entire piece has been stressed out of shape by that impact, most likely.

One more guy in the 70+ range chiming in: A cab doesn't suit my needs BUT, were in Florida, I think it would be a necessity, particularly at our tender age! What I ALWAYS tell people is shop the dealer, as much as the brand. Talk to people who own the different brands and patronize different...

I use a B/D battery powered hedge trimmer to prune Christmas trees. Each battery lasts me about 20 minutes. Two batteries and I'm done in anyway. I have yet to bite the bullet for an electric chainsaw. I've used a couple of DeWalts, and have been favorably impressed, but not enough to spend the...

Restoring old garden tractors is not an obsession, it's a disease, especially if you are brand-specific, e.g., JD, Cub Cadet....

"It's worth at least $1500! I bought it for $300.

Yeah...if those men in black suits come, don't look at the camera!

I think that anyone parting with the 2500 bucks for one would soone be wishing he spent the cash on something else. A used ATV would be more versatile and likely less money. However, soe people just NEED to have a tractor.

On an acre or so, I'd go for the tiller. You can do it two or three passes in a pretty short time. After tilling, some sort of final levelling has to be done. I like those heavy wire screen drags. They seem to do a pretty good job one small properties.

When I had turf tires on my last tractor, I had at least one front tire problem every year. Tubes solved it...mostly. The R4 tires on my Kubota stand up better to the abuse I give it working a small Christmas tree farm, even if they're a bit tougher on the lawn.

Great grab! Free metal of any kind is good. If you have the equipment, and have to have turns, either heat it with a torch and let it cool slowly, then bend it or, as already suggested, weld the corners. Either one should produce good results.

My rule of thumb with small diesels varies by season. Warm weather operation, shut it down if you'll be off for more than a couple minutes. Colder weather, only shut down if I'll be off for more than 5 minutes or so. I'm not painful about those times, just a general guideline.

Sounds like you could be in my area. We have a similar situation. What had been a family operation is now a mega-corp. Not a lot of personal service anymore from what I've been told (I use a different brand, so it's not an issue for me).

I now use a different product in my modern "stuff" but would buy another bottle of MMO if I have any older engines. My dad had a shop in which he repair farm equipment--and anything else that go dragged in--from the 1950s to his retirement in the 80s. Always a barrel of it open and one on hand...

I have a small machine/fabrication company not far from me. For my DYI projects, I can generally find what I need in their cut-off/left-over rack that they'll sell pretty reasonably. Maybe you can find a place like this. Good luck.

My first thought would be IF and only IF you can do so safely, burn the field off in sections, then disc it with a good heavy disc harrow. Other than that, you're in for a long and tough haul.

I may be last guy in the world to have jumped on the locking grease gun fitting. I suffered for a number of years having to put new jerk fittings on something every year or take pins out of fittings to get grease on them. Whattadifference!

Nobody has said it directly, though it's been alluded to: SHOP THE DEALER! The one you've been talking to will be a problem if the experience you have had so far is the norm. Buy from a place that will service what they sell...it won't be Lowe's or any other major retail chain.

...more land, bigger tractors, more implements...

My neighbor has a smaller and very old--tires worn to nothing, all decals weathered off--Kubota, that he keeps outside, mows his tree farm twice each year--maybe 20 hours each time. By his own admission, he abuses it and I suspect he nver changes the oil. It's still running.

I like the over-run clutch idea. I had a larger Cub Cadet with electronic PTO. Hated it. Though I could put it in neurtral for hooking up equipment, I popped a lot of shear bolts on the rotary cutter until I put a clutch on the shaft--either engaging or disengaging at too high an RPM. The belly...

My 2 cents worth, likely to add to your confusion: Since this is all your own property and you're not going to wreck anyone else's lawn with the R-1 tires, it's pretty much a matter of your own preference. I can symathize with the back getting beat up. Using a larger, heavier machine does help...

My dealer charged a nominal fee to load the rear tires--I think it was about $400. The salesman said he would not see a tractor with a loader unless it had loaded tires, a backhoe or a ballast box. It was the best of the options from my perspective.

YEAH>>> Looks great. Nice that you're including a play space for the grand kids.

As long as the customer understands and you're both content with the agreement, it's whatever works between you and him. I would charge a sufficient amont so that your time maintaining the machine is worked into to overall price of the machine time.

I'm in agreement that the distance is the biggest joy-killer of the package. Calculate the cost of a year's travel--others have already given a lot of the information--and put that into your backyard operation. Raised beds are becoming a more popular option here in upstate NY, so they may be...

Sounds like a good deal for the owner and a train wreck for the guy renting it.

Since you seem to know your soil pretty well, the trencher may work wonderfully. However, if you hit a big rock, you'll be wishing for the mini-ex.

If it's all saplings, you *could* just cut it all off with a good-sized rotary cutter, then start tilling...but that'll take many passes to get it really tilled up for crops. I'm in agreement with those who suggest a dozer with a root-rake. Do it, be done with it, sell the dozer and then start...

Guys quiting when there's hard work to be done seems to be getting more and more common these days. A buddy used to have a crew of 20 or so, now he's down to a handful. Since Covid, few want to work hard, and those who do flock to the best-paying jobs.

If I knew then what I know now, I'd have bought the R-14. Just sayin.

No personal experience; but among those I know with the machines, no one has EVER regretted the extra money for four wheel drive. Some have regretted 2WD and gone on to upgrade sooner than desired because of it.

:oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :):oops::) I see why you're an "epic contributor!

I have similar usage. I have 12 acres, about half in Christmas trees, plus about an acre of lawn. My hour usage is similar. I do it all with a Kubota 2301 and, though it's a great tractor, it's a bit underpowered when I hit some of the heavier soils with the rototiller. If it were not for using...

In upstate NY, the dealers look to have planty of stock. Also noticing what seems to be a lot of trading activity, e.g., a Yanmar at an LS dealer, a JD at a Kioti/NH dealer....

A previous comment was about reusing the broken pieces for landscaping, etc. I've seen a civic minded guy with access to a lot of broken concrete, use it to fix a continually eroding stream bank that the municipality never seemed to get right. He did it more than 20 years ago and it's still...

Whatever time you spend jacking it up so you work on the corners/bottom will be well worth the time. Get the corners up, strap them together as others have said. I've played with cable before and it can be more trouble that you expect--or it might work like a charm. I like the idea of setting...

I'm in agreement with using the tractor to tow the truck. Safer all around.

He nailed it! Another thought when you're starting to back up: put your hands on the bottom of your steering wheel; the direction you hands go, the trailer will go. After you do that a couple times, it'll come more naturally.

I have treated for grubs with some success in the lawn area...not practical in the larger area. I've also used a product called MOLETOX, where it was practical. It kills moles and voles (which are a larger problem for me). Moles tend to be a long-term problem; good luck.

My garage, built by the previous homeowner, is a dream. Two large overhead doors on one end, and a smaller one on the side toward the opposite end. The two large doors are for the major things, cars/tractors/motorcycle...the end door for "shop" access, mowers, hand-held tools. It was a great...

Another factor for new has been, and in some cases still is, 0 down and 0% financing. When I bought my tractor a couple years ago, it made more sense because of those two issues.

That's all good information there. After spending most of my adult life as a law enforcement officer, I'm pretty good at sniffing out scams. This smells like one. Better you have a face to face meet with a guy who beats you out of a couple hundred bucks but hands you CASH!

Old machines like that, as long as you can make replacement parts, or find them within a reasonable amount of time, are still great work horses. Better than to have it and wish it was a newer machine than to not have one.

Welcome to the forum. Enjoy. I'll double down on the previous avice about counterbalance if you don't have something. Liquid filled tires were my choice...and they make a world of difference.

Add another voice to this thought. Once you have had a tractor and loader, you're going to want it back anyway. If you're happy with all but the mower aspect, a good ZTM might be your most economical alternative.

Once again, I seem to be playing catch up on this thread. Now that it's running, I suspect that it will start to start filling the oil with fuel. That WILL ruin the engine. Thepumpguysc thinks he has a fix. I'd suggest having a conversation with him. I suspect it might fix the idle problem in...

If you have a class available at a reasonable price, and you really want to learn all the facets before you start buying equipment, it would be a good investment. There are a lot of technologies that are out there now I never learned when growing up in my dad's shop with either gas or stick...

I must agree. That's a lot of work in a couple years with a small tractor. You're going to beat it up pretty badly. Renting is a good option for that kind of work. Another option would be finding an older, larger bucket/backhoe on a tractor like a JD 310 or something. Use it hard, maintain it...

Something about those old tractors you'll never get with an orange or green machine. That said, the dependability of the new ones goes a long way to happiness. If you can afford to keep it and buy a newer machine, that's the way to go, as long as you can care for two machines. A cheaper fix to...

I'm a north country guy as well. The above answer covers all the basis. Even when the frost is 5 feet into the ground--pretty uncomoon these last years--the fuel in undergrround tanks should be in the 40 + degree range. Add at least 1/3 kerosene and a good anti-gel additive. That should...

He about said it all!

Go as big as you can with the door! You'll never regret it.

I use one of the other treatments--the blue bottle--and had a similar experience. I forgot to run the fuel out in my generator and the carb plugged so badly it would only run if choked, and then not at full throttle. Fresh fuel with the treatment got it running. I let it set overnight with the...

I'll try to summarize some of the thoughts thus far: fiture out what implements you want to run, THEN start looking for a platform that will handle them. I think you'll end up looking more for a SCUT than what we grew up thinking about as a "garden tractor."

Just saw this. So sorry for the losses.

Cutting firewood on a 20 degree day, worked up a sweat despite shedding layers. Then the temp dropped--FAST! Wind came up as well. Couldn't get the truck warm enough to get ahead of it. Even a warm meal and hot coffee didn't help too quickly. All that when I was young. Now, I can't stay warm...

I wish I had done a bit more research. If so, I'd have likelly landed on the R 14. I have R4s because I punched too many R 3s working on my tree farm with the previous tractor. The R 4 has not given me a problem with punctures, but the do track up the lawn a bit .

I'm thinking vent is plugged. I had a similar problem in a previous home.

I'll jump in with the guys who say "don't do it." Hire it or, if you have the time, rent an excavator big enough to do the job. You won't wreck the tractor, and it'll be quicker all the way around.

I think you did OK for 200 bucks.

It does sound like that relay. Going through all the battery cable connections, though is never a bad idea. I had a shop teacher, more years ago than I'd care to remember, who told us often, "to get a good electrical connection, get a good mechanical connection." I have proven him right many times.

My brother has built an entire automotive machine shop out of used equipment, most of it from E-bay and FB Marketplace type shopping. If you know what you're looking for, know the foibles to watch out for, you should be OK.

I admit that I haven't read all the feedback, but if you're looking for that higher HP, remember to factor in the weight of the tractor. Mass=pulling power. You can't leave that out.

I had a year with bad fuel from a normally dependable source. at about 25 degrees, I couldn't get more than an idle out of my old Cub Cadet with the Cat Diesel. Power service and a new filter got it running. Then I cut the fuel to about 50% kerosene. No problems the rest of the winter. Now, I...

Doubling down on the advice to keep the dies oiled! Oil is cheap in the long run.

I have a place that sharpens for 6 bucks. Saves me the frustration.

Never seen or heard of air being a factor. Certainly could be a piece of the equation. I think it's more likely a knot of series of them in the wood. I've had pieces pop, but never as badly as described here.

Maybe your health department can help. This will depend on state and local laws

All the different colors in my area: both the orange ones, the red one both the blue ones and the green one all are showing plenty of stock for the last couple months. New truckloads show up with a reasonable frequency.

I totally understand the desire to have one machine that will do it all, and get it for an afordable price. The thought of such a machine having what the website calls a "go-kart" feel gives me an unsettled feeling. I suspect the woody plants it would take care of would not be much more than 1/2...

Have to agree with that thought. Never seen a Zetor around here; but I've shot some CZ pistols and they're finely-made machines.

If someone else is buying, I'd take one of any color--or one of each!

This is great information. Dealing with tractor insurance is a good reason to have an insurance agent you can trust. You might be able to get good deals on line, but an agent understands the fine print and, if you've got a history with the company, you can trust what you're told.

If you take a zero off the end of the price, you couldn't get hurt too badly if you sold if for scrap, or maybe parts. For what it's worth, here are some of the tech-specs: Kubota L2202 technical specs, dimensions, horsepower, fuel economy and equipments diesel

:cool: ...and here I thought the angle was for style!

You already have a bunch of good advice. Just remember that when talking drainage, drain as low as you possibly can get. A couple hundred feed of tile, or a few hundred feed of open trenching my cost $ or time, but will be well worth the trouble and investment.

Wish I could find the pic of the belt-driven buzz saw on my dad's Farmall Cub from back in the mid-70s.

Learning to use a manual transmission on a tractor is not at all like using one on a car or pickup. Don't let it scare you. Just put it in the gear you want and go. You don't working about going through the gears.

I'm jumping in sort of late, but have to think you're making the right choice. I've never been unhappy keeping something I can afford, as long as I can maintain it.

I echo the thought of posting some pictures when you're done. Can't wait to see the end result!

Semi-pneumatic is the proper term. The flex a bit with normal weight of items such as ZT mowers and should give long service life. Heavier machines will likely wreck them in a hurry.

Doing a concrete headwall is a great idea. However, you may find that you can do it with stone of some sort for less money--even if it's a bit more labor-intensive. There is a good book on Best Management Practices that was put out by NYS Forestry that describes how do do it. Here's a link to...

I don't weld enough to call myself a welder; but mine look better than that. Mine generally hold up; but don't have a lot of stress on them. The welding on this gate might be problematic.

Totally agree with the Farmall Cub advice! A great tractor with lots of simple to use implements available, if you have the patience to look for them.

I have to agree that the YouTube failres look like overuse...maybe even a bit of drama due to an axe to grind with the brand/dealer. You're taking on a huge project for someone with only a few days here and there to do the work. I'd suggest get the dozer you hire for the road to do the major...

If clearances are tight (no room for a pipe), and you're not too worried about a box wrench, a solid blow to the wrench with a 2-3 pound hammer might do the trick. I have a 4 pound lead hammer that's worked for that without damaging the wrench.

They tightened in the direction that the wheels turned, as I recall. Too long ago to be sure.

I don't recall anyone successfully rebuilding a burned over piece of farm machinery...or a motor vehicle, for that matter. Just not worth the time. Probably not even worth trying to part out.

Going to echo the applause for your system of working through the problem. There are many who call themselves experienced who can't figure all that out. Good job!

That's simple science, so air alone should make some difference in the ride, though with the R4s, I'm not sure how much difference. The other issue is if you are adding a FEL. When I bought my B2301, (even though I had to wait some months for the loader) the dealer would not let it out the door...

One spot of weld on the nut should fix it. If you have to change things at some point in the future, a quick touch with a grinder (or a file if you don't use an exceptionally hard rod) will let it come off.

The 1953 Farmall Cub (in my picture) was a bear to start. I had both starter and generator rebuilt--by a pro--and that helped some. Adding an 8 volt battery took care of the problems for as long as I kept it. Since it sounds like you're looking to keep the tractor looking like an original, the...

I'm joining this discussion late, but tossing in a word of caution if you do the flea market/junk sale route. Check the chain for signs of stretch or joining with repair links of some sort. I was given about 20 feet of 5/16 chain some years ago, it was worth exactly what I paid for it--NOTHING...

Something I've not seen mentioned is the matter of tongue weight and towing stability. I know the intended purpose of the OP is short, infrequent trips; but I also understand that the best-laid plans of mice and men oft-times run amok. Here's a helpful website: How to Measure Tongue Weight