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Maybe a little more info on your situation is needed. When you say frame, does that mean with a roof? I would certainly think if you can do that it would be preferred. I just unhitch it onto 3 log ends that have been cut to about 10 inches high and there it sits in the corner of the shop.

It would help if you added the manufacturer and model of your mower. And a picture of where those cables go to. Not all of us know this particular model but if you give us some context and more detail of the type of brakes we can likely come up with some suggestions. Just trying to help.

When you say "PTO" do you mean engaging the mower blades? Pretty sure the blades are hydraulically driven buy hydraulic motors. I would say that there may be some sort of damage to the motor as Hay Dude has mentioned.

Have you tried calling the shop that did the work and ask them that question? A shop/service manual is a good piece of literature to have and well worth the money.

I believe using ground speed pto operation it is hard to get the balance right between forward speed and pto rotation. Much easier to get the balance right if you can vary the engine rpm and change gears when the grass/brush become thicker or more dense. Just my 2 cents.

I would think there are a few things to consider here. To begin with, how big is the brush cutter? The higher the ratio, the less power you have to cut the brush. I would think the 1:2.83 is likely too high, that is almost twice the speed of the original. It will be interesting to see what...

It's hard to tell from the photo but it looks like the drawbar frame is removable and that would allow the arms come closer together. A bit of a pain but a would that work..??

Not sure how those would work. I think it might be easier to extend the stabilizer links so that the arms come closer together as long as there are no clearance issues on the tractor. Something like this maybe...

Not sure what you mean? Have you got a picture of this "three point diaphragm pump"??

Seems to me, if I read this correctly, you are having to make a decision here as to either put up with the mess or perform the repair quickly. If you decide to do the repair I would personally leave the backhoe on the machine since it will be easier to work on and get the job done more quickly...

Have you checked the wiring for a short or see any mouse damage?

As seville009 said grease that pivot in multiple positions and it might migrate out. Or drill a hole in each of the inner 2 lobes that contact the pin and put grease nipples on them. Then you are certain to get grease on those surfaces. The outer 2 bars rotate with the pin so no need for grease...

Might also be what is called a "cold solder" ,which can happen during manufacturing, when there was not enough heat to transfer the solder to the other side of the connection and intermittently makes contact. Or perhaps that a connection has cracked on the circuit board. Still potentially...

Sounds like you've exhausted all avenues for original part which is why I suggested a transmission cooler that is normally used to cool transmissions on vehicles. You might have to get a mechanic and/or fabricator involved to see if it would work. Not sure if it would be cheaper though, would...

Just have to check and make sure insects don't clog up the filter opening but easy to replace.

Or maybe just bend it around the outside and use a wire twist tie or zip tie to keep it in place.

I have the MX4700 that I bought new which is basically the same machine as yours without the turbo. It came with the LA844 loader and SSQA from the dealer. I also don't believe there is much difference between the LA844 and the LA1065 so the SSQA is probably the same. If you need some...

Not sure what sort of room you have up front or what size the hydraulic lines are but wondering if you could find a transmission cooler that might work..?

Could you put a small piece of rolled up screen material in the end of the tube to prevent insects from getting in?

I believe this would only work if your top link is solid and not a swivel or swing type and only if your draft control is sensitive enough to engage the top link valve when the mower hits the ground. The tractors I have operated in the past this was not possible, mind you they are all older...

Not sure where Mahindra has that information. My manual for the MX4700 lists It is a Cat 1/2 three point hitch. It has a maximum lift of 2,870 pounds at lift points (which I believe is at the arm ends), 2,310 pounds at 2 feet behind lift points and then 1,000 pounds maximum for certain...

Though you might want to check what the maximum implement weight is for your tractor. This is not the same as maximum lift for 3 point hitch. I believe the above mower weighs 1,650 pounds.

First result on a search says it's cat #1 and #2. https://bushhog.com/multi_spindle/2208-multi-spindle-rotary-cutter/

Though I am not experiencing this issue, I would be curious to know as well since my model is the same minus the turbo. It is an old post though and Peacock has not been on this site since 2015, hopefully he will respond. Please keep us posted on what you find with yours!!

Glad you found something that works. Thanks for letting us know!!

I typically stick with conventional 80/90 weight GL5 on my equipment since most of my gear boxes and axles are older and I'm not sure how the synthetic oils might react with those old seals. Just my 2 cents.

You might be able to make a cap for it if you can't find one. What is the diameter of the valve? I could be wrong but, looks like a hydraulic pressure control valve on a distribution block...? Can you not just buy a new pressure control valve?

I was thinking the same as TractorTech. Since it seems to be heat related would point to a possible problem with the pump.

I would strongly suggest you get the workshop/service manual for your tractor. Not all tractors are the same when it comes to splitting and getting things to line up properly upon reassembly. Sorry I don't know your particular model well enough to give any guidance beyond that.

Thanks for letting us know what solved it!!

Have you checked the shift linkage to make sure that it is free of anything that could be impeding it's function? Is the linkage lubricated? Is the hydraulic fluid at it's correct level? Just checking the obvious first.

I completely understand, splitting a tractor is a big job!! I am sorry I cannot be of more help but I just don't know your model well enough. Hopefully someone else can chime in here.

Well I cannot say for certain that it is the pump but there is a good chance. That sludge does look quite dark. Did you pass a magnet through it to see if there were any metal shavings in it? I don't know about the brand of fluid you are using but the older machines were typically not that...

Are there any codes? Have you checked all of the safety switches when this condition happens?

I would still suspect a potential bad connection or possible blown fuse for no power at all. Mice chewing wires? Prior to it losing electrical power there might also be a possibility that the fuel line may be drawing air somewhere. Perhaps you could connect a new fuel line directly to a good...

That looks like some pretty sever damage. Wonder if the axle was low on fluid for some time..??

I would say that there is a good chance the somewhat new pump has failed. Especially if it was being starved of fluid due to sludge build up, that is never a good thing for a pump. Also evidence of poor pressure is another indicator.

Could be bad battery or connections. Is the engine turning over slowly? As engines age compression can drop and if you don't turn the engine over fast enough it may not be building enough pressure in the cylinder to create detonation. Just a thought.. What is the "primary bulb"?

Have you checked for evidence of mice? Chewed wires? Poor or corroded electrical connections?

Typically there should not be any pressure in the transmission housing or axle area where the wet brakes are usually located. I do not know your model well but if you include some pictures of where the leak is and also let us know if it is a geared or hst transmission, someone here might be able...

Fuel for tractor

Usually turf tires with the intended wheels tend to be a little wider. Other than that you could put wheel spacers on the hubs, fill the rear tires with ballast or put wheel weights on the rear wheels. These will all help to lower center of gravity. Hope this helps!!

Hydraulic bleed down is normal. Depends how quickly and what is acceptable. And yes, spools/control valves are becoming worse as far as quality is concerned. How long does it take yours to bleed down? How many inches in how many hours.

For what you are wanting to do I am reasonably certain HST will be the way to go. Direct gear is better for heavy duty ground engagement which is something you have not included in your list. Don't get me wrong, I do like gears and it is what I have, but today's HST is much better than before...

I didn't quite understand that either.. What I do understand is that you cannot get close to a fence or an obstructed edge when the mower is narrower than the tread, unless it's offset..

Personally I would always start with checking if the oils have water in them after sitting for long periods, especially if stored outside. Drain a little bit of oil and hydraulic fluid at the drain plugs and see what comes out. If you find water, bits of metal or other issues they will likely...

Sorry, not very familiar with your particular model. Does the steering box contain the control valve that governs the delivery of hydraulic fluid to the steering cylinder?

Good to know.. Thanks! Glad it wasn't worse!!

I'm assuming you mean that the 3 point hitch is stuck in the up position? And that it's not the control lever that is stuck.. Have you checked to make sure no one has fiddled with the lowering speed adjustment valve usually located somewhere near the seat? This is typically a turn valve, used to...

That is where the ball end sits inside a socket. Usually not worth fixing. Best to buy a replacement. Hope this helps!!

Wow.. Thanks for the update!! Any idea what might have caused that?

Harry has some good points! I had too much slop in the linkage of an old international that would no longer engage the control valve and would not allow hydraulic flow to the cylinder when it was needed. Good places to start!!

It would be helpful if we had some pictures of the type of power steering system it has. Not all of us are familiar with that particular model but some of us have had to repair steering systems that may be the same or similar to yours. Please always give as much information as possible to get...

Are you able to provide us with some more pictures where the hose enters the pump?

I use the same standing technique as scootr has mentioned on my MX. A mirror is a great idea!!.. Go low tech and never have to look for batteries, a charger, do a software update or wonder why the damn camera has lost electrical connection!!! Just my 2 cents..

I cannot tell from pictures on the internet but if it is a normal type hydraulic cylinder you might be able to get it rebuilt, depending on what's wrong with it. We would need more information in order to provide you with better solutions.

Have you had a look at any of the electrical connections to see if there is any corrosion that can be cleaned? Or sometimes the connections are a bit loose?

Don't quote me but I believe most simple tractors require about 20 hours to do a clutch as an average. Now that all depends on level of knowledge, experience and if you have the right tools to do it. Things can take a lot longer if you don't have someone helping you as well. Hope this helps!

First off I would look at flow rates for the hydraulics and see if they are a decent match. But when it comes to mounting you will likely encounter having to fabricate and/or modify the sub-frame in order to match the two together. This may wind up costing more than it's worth. You would need...

Sorry.. Forgot to mention the screen is in the transmission housing and is Part #5 in the schematics of the link above.

If the screen is clogged it will restrict flow and cause the issues you are having. Pay close attention as to what comes out of the screen, it will indicate other possible issues. Here is a link to where the screen is located. Hope this helps...

What Peter said, be sure to clean!! Also what was the condition of hydraulic fluid when you drained it? Golden/honey color.. Dark.. Milky..??

The only problem with Deere is being able to find the mower in tall grass....... Ha!

Something I usually try to consider is ride quality. Not sure how many hours you will be cutting but sitting in a skid steer for hours is no fun for me especially on rough terrain. I might opt for the tractor in this case but then again perhaps I don't have enough info, Just my 2 cents.

That's a really nice one!!! Pretty sure they don't make them like that anymore. Or they cost a fortune..

Here is a website depicting the parts of the rear axle and brakes and how they are put together. I hope this helps! https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/75863/referrer/navigation/pgId/240211423

Not sure if that tractor has a lift pump but might want to look into that as well..

I have a bit of haze on my wood stove glass as well, I think it might be from the heat, not sure though. I find the best way to clean the glass is with a slightly wet paper towel and dip it into the fine part of the ashes and then wipe that on the glass and scrub a little. Then wipe it clean...

Personally I would check a few other things first before fiddling with the governor. It might have fuel delivery issue. Have you replaced the fuel filter? Have you checked if you are getting enough fuel flow to the injector pump?

Better to lose a couple of nuts than to lose your marbles... Though often one can cause the other to happen....

Lookin good!!!

And this is the type of thing where chatgtp misses the mark. As a matter of fact, as this sort of thing progresses it will be more and more difficult to access information that is correct or for that matter even real. Anything can be faked now. Talk about manipulation.....!!! Sorry.. Don't mean...

Nice tractor!! I used to have one and really liked it. If you are trying to repair we would need to see some photos to assess the damage and see if it is repairable. If you want to replace, then a quick search found this...

I find it a bit perplexing that spraying herbicide is even allowed in a bird nesting habitat. Kind of goes against what the intention is...? Or am I missing something here....

GL4 is usually used in manual transmissions. I'm pretty sure that most front axles on tractors do not have soft metals in them which are usually found in transmissions with synchromesh.. Therefore it should be reasonable to assume that GL5 would be fine to use in the front axle. I am no expert...

Personally I would just change the fluids in question, then you know for sure what is in there and that it is the right stuff. Just my 2 cents.

Just trying to understand things a little better so please bear with me. I am assuming the tractor has a geared transmission and is not hydrostatic. Are you having trouble shifting the transmission into gear? Or, is the tractor not capable of moving forward in a higher gear due to some sort...

5030 has a good point. Could be clutch is going and maybe brakes need addressing as well. The brakes seem to be internal on your model and if there are pieces of it moving around in the transmission housing it might be causing problems with shifting. We would need more info. Have you checked...

Could also be worn out diaphragm on lift pump if it has one.

If you are talking about pulling the wheel off the MX please let us know if you were successful. I have tried to take mine off as well with no success. The video looks like a good idea but I think the pneumatic hammer would have to be set up a little differently, if I remember correctly, in...

Sorry to ask a perhaps obvious question but, do you have something connected to the couplers so that fluid can flow? If you have nothing connected then the fluid has no where to go when you actuate the valve.

Welcome to the forum! First off , have you checked the basics? Condition and level of hydraulic fluid? Replaced filters and cleaned the hydraulic screen if it has one? Does the power steering work? We need to know what has been done already in order to further the process of diagnosing.

Thanks for letting us know the outcome!!

I would say stay away from high range and stick with the first 4 gears low range especially initially until you get a feel for things. 1st gear high range might do but depending on terrain and density of grass might be a bit fast. This also depends on which tires you have, ag, industrial or...

How about just screwing a small piece of plywood over the hole..? 4 inch by 3 inch or bigger if need be. Has always worked for me to close off former electrical/plumbing holes.

As mentioned earlier check linkage first and also check adjustment. It is usually that the clutch material has rusted onto the flywheel. You can try to release it by moving the tractor to an open place where you have lots of room. With the tractor off, put it in 2nd or 3rd gear low range. Start...

If it is only for occasional use and seeing that you have a 55 horse power tractor with associated implements I would likely go with the bigger one (2767), which is what I have. Especially if I had to tackle something out in the field on an implement that may have a fair bit of rust on it. The...

I believe my manual states 1,000 pounds max for rear implements on MX4700, if I remember correctly. Would be worth a glance at your manual.

Oh that's right.. Most of the older ones are.. Their newer models have either water or air cooled. Deutz also made diesels for other applications that were water or oil cooled. My bad.. Guess we need more info..

Sorry. Can't help you with the sensor but a cooling fan almost always blows toward the motor. No sense in using warmed air from the motor to cool the radiator.

Unless Lucknow has some sort of extra load on that chain I would suspect you likely could replace with a normal pulley as long as it fits. So many other manufacturers have almost the exact same drive system and that is all they use.

I would not use the backhoe without the front end loader (FEL). When using the backhoe it is recommended to slightly raise the front wheels off the ground with the FEL to keep the loads off the front wheels, axle, pivots and associated linkages. Most backhoes connect to the frame to the FEL...

Not sure where you are located but Messicks has muffler listed at $608. Might also be able to have a muffler shop modify a new muffler to fit. Regarding fluid and filters I would definitely stick with Kubota filters but fluid depends on location and what temperature you are operating at.

It would help if we had some photos and more detail about when the issue happens. Under load? Is the blade hydraulic?

I do not know your particular model but there are lots of videos on youtube that walk you through cylinder rebuilds. Not all cylinders come apart the same way and some are easier than others. Seal kits are usually available through your dealer. Also worth considering is to remove the cylinder...

I believe the 300CX is the loader model and not the model of the tractor. It would help if we had the tractor model. With almost 13 volts at the battery it would seem that the alternator is working. How old is the battery? Have you checked condition of wiring and contact points?

The only thing that would really concern me is getting contamination into my hydraulic fluid. I would try and get it cheap enough that it would still be a good deal even if I had to replace the lines and the cylinder. Then I would take the lines off and inspect and flush. Then pour some...

According to tractor data pto is 33 hp. Not sure if that is correct or not though.

Sorry to hear it is not resolved yet. Tough call on whether to split and fix. Depends on how much it will cost versus getting another machine to do what you have in mind. Thank you for keeping us posted and in the loop!!

You might also want to check tire pressures. The rim/wheel might be slipping on the tire bead.

Could you perhaps show us some pictures and maybe someone can recognize something similar they may have worked on before? Does this tractor have a lift pump? Often a faulty mechanical lift pump will also allow fuel into the engine oil.

You could try and grind 2 flat spots on the stripped thread to be able to get a wrench or vice grips on there. Or maybe weld a nut on the end to get a ratchet on to hold against the other nut.. Just a couple of suggestions. Perhaps someone else here can also chime in with more. Hope this helps!!

I believe what you are referring to are possibly friction plates to provide resistance to the position control lever to prevent the lever from moving on it's own due vibration and what have you. This would very likely not have anything to do with your problem. Others here have mentioned a couple...

Ha.. Had not heard that one before. Thanks for clarifying!

Definitely flush all the old fuel out and clean everything. Start again with fresh fuel and purge the lines going to the injectors. Hopefully all will run well. If not then you might have to pull the injectors and get them cleaned or replaced.

Hey RUSTABOUT, trying to understand the part about "lick your calf over again"..?? Is this an old saying of some sort or some kind of code for something?? Haha

You are definitely on the right track. I would have the injectors checked and cleaned or replaced as necessary. I would also make sure there is no water in the tank. Hopefully you also replaced the engine oil and inspected the condition of the hydraulic fluid as precautionary measures.

Which model is that? Let us know how it turns out.

Your links do not seem to be working.

Always pays to be cautious so I would go easy and see what happens.

Thanks for letting us know!!

What does the hydraulic fluid look like, is it milky in color or darker than it should be? Is the fluid over full?

You could also try a bottle jack, giving some pressure from the bottom while hammering.

The way I understand it is that you wish to remove the bracket that the boom and cylinder are attached to. If that is the case then it is a little hard to tell from here but is there a removable bushing at the bottom swivel that is held in place by some bolts? According to the parts manual I do...

I don't have much experience with the electronics on these newer tractors but from what you have said it may not be the hydraulics. Older engines have mechanical governors that increase fuel when there is a load put on the engine. I believe newer (tier 4) engines use electronics to govern. Might...

Could it be one of the glow plugs has failed? Maybe one of the cylinders is just not firing right away in the cold? Just a thought.

How about reversing a rear blade (if you have one) and smoothing out that way. I have done that many times. Usually a lot less dusty as well. Just a thought.

Perhaps you could provide us with some photos and a little more detail. I am having a hard time understanding exactly what it is you are trying to do and what has failed.

Happy to be of help. Hope it all goes well!!

Glad you found what the issue was! And thanks for letting us know what it was!! I would certainly be replacing the filter housing as well or at least finding a way to secure that fitting. Wouldn't want to be out doing work and have that thing come loose and dump fuel all over the place.

There are a number of different ways to do this but here is a video of the principal and you can figure out how fix one side and use hydraulics to realign the other side. Hope this helps!!

Might be easier and maybe even cheaper just to replace the tank..?? Here is a link for a new tank for $144. Just a thought. https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/fuel-tank-new-ford-c5nn9002ac-e3nn9002ab-103893.html

Might I suggest getting the cylinders resealed rather than replacing the whole cylinder? There are shops that do this sort of thing.

A few photos would certainly help..

There should be a test port. Hopefully you get the shop manual soon. Please let us know what you find so we can all learn from this!!

Got any pictures?? we love pictures!!

The 110 tlb is known for having issues with cracked and broken transmission housings. It is quite possible that the dealer may have not have put things back together properly. From what I read in your post it sounds like you have checked all the necessary areas and the only thing left are the...

Thank you for keeping us updated!! Please keep us informed as to what you wind up doing and the results you are having so we may all learn.

If there are no external leaks and leak down is fairly quick then it is usually a sign that the control valve/spool is leaking hydraulic fluid from the cylinder back to the reservoir. The issue of not being able to lift the tractor may have to do with pressure and a pressure relief valve may...

Did you buy a new o ring or use the old one for the bowl? The rubber will likely get hard and brittle over time. Might be that it is too hard to seal properly..?

It is hard to tell where the wires are going to from your pictures and this is where a shop manual comes in handy. I can see that your solenoid is three prong which means there is a holding circuit after the start circuit. You should also be checking that the relay/time delay control module is...

Have you checked the injection pump solenoid? Checked ignition switch for proper contact? What year is this tractor? Is the engine tier 4 or pre-tier 4?

I assume this is a John Deere 2520 compact. The fuel solenoid is attached to the fuel injection pump. I will provide a link to the parts diagram and hope it comes up ok. It is part #29 in the diagram. If it has 2 wires it is easy to test by putting 12 volt to and if it clicks it is usually ok...

compression check is a great place to start! Also, do you know why the head cracked in the first place?

Was the junkyard head rebuilt? Or just pulled and installed?

Reversing or swapping wheels is usually done to increase or decrease tread width or distance between the tires on a tractor. The difference being that if you reverse wheels and keep them on the same side you are changing the direction of the tread. If you swap them left to right you will...

Happy to help as best as I can!! Please let us know how it turns out.

just wondering why a pto pump? I noticed that they are quite expensive unless you are buying just the pump and building the frame and drive yourself. A gas powered pump seems to be cheaper and allows more flexibility in positioning and location.

If the fuel line is providing plenty of fuel and the injectors are good and there are no leaks then I would start to suspect the injection pump? White smoke and not being able to run higher rpm is usually an indication that a diesel is running lean or starving of fuel supply.

If you post some photos of what you are talking about you might get more help.

Seems like lack of fuel. Have you checked tank, fuel lines, fuel filter, lift pump (if so equipped)?? Just to start with.

First off I would definitely check into where the coolant is going!! This can cause an expensive breakdown. In regards to electrical gremlins maybe have a look for rodent damage. Trace wires looking for damage as well as evidence of nesting. Just as a start of things to look into.

Given where you are located it should not be cold enough to create problems. I would maybe post a video and see if someone here knows your machine well enough to provide some insight as to whether it is normal operation or not. I would still let things warm up a little anyways, even in summer.

If you can upgrade then I would if it were me, but only to a point. I would look at tractors that have engines before tier 4. Or tractors under 24 horsepower that do not have all the electronics associated with them. They will be much easier and less expensive to maintain. I have not read every...

What is the temperature where the tractor is stored? If it is fairly cold then you should let the hydraulic fluid and engine warm up for some time. Hydrostatic transmissions are more susceptible to temperature than traditional geared transmissions and typically require longer warm-up times.

What have you checked so far?

Is there any way you could attach the top link to the 2 big lobes that are on either side of the draft control bracket? That would eliminate draft control and looks a lot stronger as well. I have to say I am not a big fan of 3pt hitch backhoes unless it is a small backhoe attached to a very...

I am not absolutely sure but used to be that GL4 and lower were typically used in transmissions with synchromesh. GL5 contains high levels of sulfur-phosphorus which are not good for softer metals. Or perhaps if you could find manual transmission oil, it would likely be ok. Personally I would go...

Don't want to derail the post but I am curious as to why you got rid of the MX5100?

Wow!! That disk is quite chewed up. Important to inspect machine and check bolt and lug torque periodically. Really like your progress on a wonderful piece of property! Thanks for bringing us along on the journey!

Thanks for letting us know!!

Like crashz said. I also might try putting all fours in the air and spin the wheels. Make sure you have it properly secured!! Also was wondering if your front drive shaft is a splined shaft where the coupler is warn to the point of skipping teeth. I know this can happen on Kubotas and it does...

Have you tried talking to the dealer? Sorry I do not know your particular machine but there is one way to find out for sure and that is to mount some type of ground engagement implement like a plow and see which position of the draft control allows the plow to go the lowest while plowing and...

I'm guessing you are talking about the TYM t603? Just wondering how much fluid did you have to add to the front end? Was it always low or do you notice a leak somewhere?

Kind of hard to tell how high those mounds are. If they are a foot or so, a few runs with a toothed disc harrow might do. Or if they are bigger a spring shank cultivator and a disc harrow or a blade to smooth.

Perhaps you could show us some photos so we have a better idea of what you are dealing with. That way we can likely make better recommendations.

I believe you crack open the screw of the incoming fuel line to the injection pump, then tighten. If it does not start you might have to bleed to the injectors. Does your tractor have a lift pump?

Have you checked hydraulic fluid level? Fluid condition, is it milky in color? Does this machine have a screen for the fluid? Just some initial things to go over.

beenthere is correct, you should provide more information. I will take a stab at it never the less. If it is the mechanical spinning cable type then you might need a new cable. If it is electronic then you will likely have to get the multi tester out. Hope this helps!!

If you are talking about the round flashing lights that are mounted on top of the fender, they usually have 2 lenses that snap on and off. One for front and one for back. A flat head screwdriver will typically do the trick. Just look for some sort of insert hole at the edge of the lens. Hope...

Best way to flush is fill and drain a couple of times with hydraulic fluid. Might be a little pricey but is still the best way. As TractorTech mentioned if you can drain the cylinders this will help and may only require a one fill and drain. Hope this helps!!

Like ptsg mentioned I would suspect draft control. Need to make sure top link is not putting pressure on control rod. Disable.

Personally I think digging out the driveway and creating a bridge would be best; leaving some extra clearances with regard to length and height. It is likely that the creek may find/erode another path if the restriction at the driveway crossing were to become great enough and that would...

Best to take a slide caliper and measure it yourself.

Have you checked lift pump pressure? Have there been any repairs done prior to this happening?

What have you checked so far? Any leaks? Fluid level ok? Fluid condition foamy or milky or metal shavings?

Oops.. Posted the above reply before seeing the picture.. You definitely have a fair bit of flow there.

It also depends on how strong the flow is. If it is largely standing water or very slow moving then your idea may be alright. If there is flow and it increases a fair bit after it rains then you will have erosion issues to deal with.

I closer picture as well as from different angles would likely help in analyzing. It might be a lock out pin to prevent the bracket from putting pressure on the draft control piston. Just a guess at this point.

There have already been examples in the fabrication industry where machinery is no longer usable because of software and circuit boards no longer being supported or made. Just sayin..

It seems everything is becoming more and more complicated and more expensive to repair. We may be approaching a time when things become so complicated that they may not be fixable or too expensive to fix. Or the software is no longer supported. That's when the equipment becomes disposable. How...

I believe battery longevity also has to do with where it is located both geographically and where it is housed on a vehicle. In cold climates they seem to have a shorter life cycle than in milder climates. Also car batteries that spend their time in the engine compartment have to withstand...

Just because it's new does not necessarily mean it's good. Things are certainly not made as well as they used to be

All good information here!! I would also like to point out that it depends on the type of footing you are intending to dig. Shop and barn footings are usually quite shallow and typically do not require a large machine. However if you are needing to dig past a frost line then a bigger machine...

I have personally never seen a custom fit tractor cover. And by that I believe you mean a soft cover. Likely quite difficult to put on and take off. Better to build a temporary cover like a pole barn or canvas tent type structure to park it under. Just my 2 cents.

Sorry, I don't have any experience with any of these mowers. I did however have a look at some videos and saw that it was a lot of fiddle work to keep the mower from scalping the grass. Was wondering if you have considered a sickle side mower at all?

Yes, thanks. I will be looking at that as well once mowing season starts again.

If the truck has daytime running lights then you may be want to install a switch that interrupts the signal from the high beam to the relay and turn it off only when the daytime running lights are on. When you turn the headlights on, turn the switch to the on position and the system should work...

Nice!! Would you please be so kind and also provide us with some pics of the wheel spacers? Would like to see how the look and your impressions on how they feel regarding stability.

Thanks for the info thepumpguysc!! Was wondering if you are aware of any known issues with the mechanical injection pumps on the Kubota V2403 engines?

I would personally go with a switch on the negative side. If the connections you made ever came loose or something happened to them and they made contact to the chassis or sheet metal there would be no problem. If that happened with the positive side you would create a short with a very large...

Have you tried calling some of the parts places found online to see if they have any suggestions where to find this part? Otherwise if you are handy, or know someone who is, with a small welder, grinder and drill press you might be able to repair the part...?? Or take it to someone with a lathe...

If there are no external leaks then it is likely the control/spool valve that is allowing the cylinder to leak down. Sometimes it can indicate the piston seal is leaking. If you do a google you will find a instructions to determine which it is. Hope this helps.

I have the bh92 and would not want to be without a backhoe again. I do not use it very often but when I do it certainly saves my back from the job I have in front of me!! Also like Goose said, no need to look after another entire machine that mostly just sits around and is there when I need it...

I believe the JD 790 has a cable activated tachometer. Might be that you have to replace the cable..??

Yes, thanks 5030!! It has a grease nipple which is hidden by the shaft in that photo. I will certainly make sure to put the gun to it before I use it.

Here is a photo of the one I picked up. Supposed to be good for up to 70 hp. Have not had a chance to use and test it yet since mowing season is over in this neck of the woods. Hope it serves me well and does the trick.

Also consider ditches as a way of routing water away from your road to a low spot on your property,

I found an overrun coupler here locally and will post some pictures when I have a chance.

I realize it's not your model of tractor exactly but here is a video that explains the hydraulic pto clutch engagement a little.

Is the 1070 4 wheel or 2 wheel drive? It matters because if 4 wheel you need to keep the front to rear ratio close to what it has currently other wise the drivetrain will bind too much when 4 wheel drive is activated. if 2 wheel drive then the best thing to do is get out your measuring tape and...

You don't mention 4 wheel or two wheel drive. Try Messick's website and go to their online parts tab and put in your model. Hope this helps!!

Perhaps you could provide some pictures. You might have to modify your brackets.

First off your John Deere is not an Iseki, it is typically relatively easy to work on and find parts for. Even if you had to rebuild the motor, which I'm not saying is the case, you would still have to spend money on a different tractor and who knows what it might need. Not to mention the cost...

I would like to thank you all for your great responses!! I am convinced that I will likely try and get my hands on an ORC. I may have found one at a dealer near me for almost half the price of the one on amazon. Will have to try and get over there in the next couple of weeks to have a look at...

Hello all, I am hoping to get some feedback from people that use an over run clutch/coupler (ORC) on their tractors. I like the idea of saving the pto brake on shut down but was wondering if there is a down side to using them. Added stress or something else? Also would like to know which ones...

Just out of curiosity joecdeere, why do you not post to let us all know how to do this?

I believe this should be possible with any open center hydraulic system with the engine turned off. My tractor has a joystick for the controls and I simply activate the valve to lower the arms and then at the same time cycle left to right to drop or curl the bucket depending on it's position and...

I would suggest getting someone to determine where the noise is coming from and having a look at the machine. Almost impossible for us to diagnose over the internet if we don't know what is making the noise. One thing I would check is to see what the hydraulic fluid looks like. Any fine metal...

Welcome to tbn! Sounds like you are on the right track. If it is water contamination then I would try and find out how it is getting in otherwise you'll be doing all the work of cleaning the tank and lines all over again, not to mention possible damage to the injector pump. Keep the tank full to...