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Apply some math. A difference of 11" in circumference result in 3.5" in diameter. That would raise the tractor's ground clearance by 1.75".

Truck driver here. I hauled wood shavings. And there is no way that a pallet weighs 2000 lbs. It is considered a light load at full capacity by volume. But be prepared, there is not much room at the top to lift it up if they are delivered by a box truck. Just to make sure, put everything on the...

The operation hours are counted as soon as the alternator is charging.

To go back to your initial post. I paid 2500 Loonies to make the ECM to forget it's "attachment". I did the hardware myself. I'm running a power shuttle and wouldn't want anything else. Hydrostats are for lawn mowers.

Do you have a Msssey dealer near you? A 2860 or the new 2M60 should fit through your garage door. I have a 1759, which is a previous model. It fits an 8ft door with industrial tires. Mine does every bit what I expect from it.

Another load is at home.

It was an easy pull with the hay trailer.

When I sold my semi truck, the buyer had his account with the same bank as me. We both went there and the direct deposit was done within minutes. Then I sold my tractor to a remote customer. His bank needed a bill of sales and my bank information. Condition of the contract was "tractor will be...

Eight hour workday on a farm? This illusion doesn't exist. A while back, I dug into the JD battery tractor. If I remember correctly, the batteries last for about 25 miles on the road for the tractor only. I got my hay bales from about such distance. How should this work? I can tell you right...

Been there, done that. I don't really like the diesel smell. But it is what it is.

Even the square shaped shafts have a, what I call it, "timing slot". You can put them together only in theses two positions, which rotates the joint by 180 degrees and in this case it doesn't matter.

Today I took my caliper with me. Set it at 4.5". In my opinion, that's not a 4.5" cylinder

I got to have a closer look tomorrow.

It says 25 tons on the side.

4.5" M A Y B E overall outside diameter on a hot day with low air pressure. But even then, I'd end up with 42.390.

For about 15 years, I own a 25 ton Speeco wood splitter. From day one, it seemed weak, at least not what I would expect. It did always get the job done but with the constant feeling that it's lacking power. I couldn't find any technical specs, but let me crush some numbers. Something doesn't...

You don't need to losen the injector. Just the fuel line going to it. Start your bleeding procedure with the flow of fuel. Tank, filter, pump and finally injectors. As soon as you go upstream the flow and open the system after your bleeding, you have to start over again.

You can put one weight on the inside and two on the outside.

Wheels or tow hitch are put on to make it easier to move around on your property. I'm seriously thinking if manufacturers shouldn't remove one of these two to prevent people from coming up with such ideas.

What are the dimensions on your loader arms? I took a SSQA off my my Massey and converted to Global. I thought I'd keep it but also consider to sell.

I don't like the idea of putting the pump directly on the Pto stub. It puts a lot sideload on it. I know, there is a lots of farm machinery out there that do the same. They also keep on rebuilding Pro output shafts, bearings and seals. You've chosen the perfect path on sizing the pump. Just be...

Did the reprogramming first. And then gutted out the DPF. There are a few tuners around but only one of those that I found was able to do the Mitsubishi engine.

3/8" lines and fittings are usually rated for 6gpm. You could possibly gain some speed if you upgrade to 1/2".

Completed the "final regeneration" on the 1759.

It's been that way for years.

Your tractor likes the winter.

It's difficult to find a virgin these days. You obviously found one. Congratulations to your new tractor.

Barely any manufacturer had rounded/sloped shapes at that time. As far as I know, Kubota produces all of their tractors in Japan. Except the M8. It's built in Winnipeg by Buhler/Versatile. Apparently they don't have the capacity in Japan for that size of tractor.

Sames were orange some 30 years ago. Maybe they got mixed up.

Thanks.

Same Deutz Fahr.

I just came across that news. Seems like SDF is going to build small series of tractors up to 80 hp. I can't copy the link. Maybe someone else can.

Yep. It's dealer time. Forced regen is required.

Converted the 1759 from SSQA to Global.

Pto auger don't need much HP. As mentioned, weight or down pressure might be the deciding factors next to unexpected obstacles like rocks in the ground.

After I sold my JD, I kept a few attachments that I wanted to use with the new to me MF 1759. That came with the SSQA. I included the necessary parts for the conversion in the deal with the selling dealer. It took about 5-6 weeks for the order to come in. Considering, Christmas was in between...

Are you sure that the 200 series is available in NA? As far as I know, they sell 300 and up. I just bought a used Massey compact from a dealer. And they ARE committed to Fendt's warranty promises. I think the sales person said, it's 48 hours that either the tractor is fixed or you have a...

Curl back AND lower the loader. At about a foot off the ground, it should latch.

Your experience confirms what I keep on saying. No amount of fuel conditioner will turn summer diesel into winter diesel. Filling the tanks according to the season is the only way to go. I make it every year without any fuel conditioner. No problem at all. The white stuff that you found in your...

Exactly that. Get rid of the summer fuel. No amount of conditioner will turn summer fuel into winter fuel. I personally run the tank low towards fall when the chores get fewer. Usually mid November our fuel stations are filled with winter diesel. That's when I fill up again. And a few degrees...

It warmed up. It's just below freezing now.

Merry Christmas to all of you.

Your sensor might be shorting out. Or you have an intermittent short on that one wire going to the sensor.

You don't need to lower the three point arms if you have nothing attached to it. Anything else, drop it to the ground. Putting the loader in float is a bonus. It also helps the tires to stay round.

That's a nice fiew. Thanks for sharing.

100% agree to that. I do the same.

Most of the problem is the aim and not the LED.

I just googled your info. A 54w led can produce somewhere from 5800 to 7000 lumens. That's right the ballpark that I'd like. Sure you can't look into the light anymore. Thanks.

I've ordered them through a local shop. Through out the box 3 years ago.

I just got a tractor with 4 halogen work lights at the cab that I'd like to convert to LED. I did a conversion on our truck and the LEDs put out 12000 lumens. That's nice light. But I can't find any LED work lights anywhere close to that output. What do you guys run? How many lumens would you...

There was summer fuel in there. I bought some fresh fuel. She's running fine now. Thursday morning, we had -38C. Without wind chill. I know the windchill doesn't affect machinery. But people very easily tend to post wind chill values.

You shouldn't have any trouble in the 20-30s. Kubota engines usually are very good cold starters. In my opinion, there shouldn't be any need for glow plugs at 30 degrees.

Now I figured it out.

I know, I know.

I wanted to add pictures but can't find any to attach. Seems like the app can't find the gallery.

I found this beautiful 1759 with 450 hours. Hauled her home in the middle of the cold snap that we had the last few days. Sure enough, the summer fuel didn't cut it. I've replaced the filters and pumped out as much fuel as I could get. But gelled up again. Then I attacked it with heat. Now...

I can see a split tractor in your future.

There is definitely some truth to it. And running the engine on higher rpms doesn't mean that the engine is under load. It might help a bit.

appears to be quite a few owners of the emissions compliant machines that are having issues with them. Appears to me that most problems are user errors. I'm not saying that there is everything OK with the tractor. Yes, it can fail as well.

That sounds like 8S.

I zoomed in a bit closer in your first picture. The tip seems to be about 3/8" which equals 10mm. It's a 10S. 30 years ago, we called that fitting DKOS 10S.

It's a metric fitting. Check the backside of the collar nut. You may find the size. From the looks, it could be 10S or 12S. Measuring the tip of the fitting in front of the O-ring will give you the size.

I'm not sure about your specific tractor, but at semi trucks, that light comes on below a certain speed during regen. To warn the driver from hot exhaust components. Keep an eye on it. It could be similar with your tractor.

Why would you stop using it? Just keep on doing what you did while it's regenerating.

And that's exactly the height where the loader has the lowest lift capacity.

Do your loader arms leak down when left up in the air? If so, you have at least one lift cylinder leaking internally. As another member said, 700 lbs at the pins isn't much.

If the hoses budge when you move the levers, you have pressure building up that can't escape. Replace couplers in pairs.

You're good. Nothing to worry about.

Absolutely right. Until the bell housing becomes the fulcrum and the tractor brakes apart.

I'm gonna throw out the SSQA. All my stuff has Euro style.

It will lift 2000 lbs close to ground level. But how much can I possibly go past 1000 lbs to full height?

Thank you guys who responded so far. It comes with a block heater. I know, ballast is a must. I'm gonna fill the tires and during winter it will have a 8ft snow blower on the back.

I'm in the process of downsizing. We sold the cows and have 1 1/2 horses left. I got some attachments that I wanna keep. I'm looking at a nice used 2015 1759 with loader and just over 400 hours on it. The tractor seems flawless, the engine runs smooth, no complaints about the shuttle shift...

You can not add self leveling to an existing loader. Loader needs to be built that way. I don't know if a self leveling is available.

If your diesel engine is the only source of energy ( no batteries for support) that drives a generator, let's say at 26 HP. You can only create the equivalent electric energy of 26 HP which is approximately 19KW. You can't put more power to the wheels than the source of power creates. With one...

12 years on the tractor battery. No tender, nothing. And we need to start it in winter. Yes, in winter.

High CCA is your problem. The plates in the battery are packed close to gain the CCA. But in rough conditions, the plates start to vibrate and start to touch each other. That's causing them to short out and they destroy themselves internally. Go with a lower rating and they will last longer.

Get rid of that crappy SSQA style. You wreck them with a 25hp tractor.

You have NO DEF on your tractor. There is actually a video on YouTube from Massey showing exactly what to do in such a situation.

Absolutely agree on that.

No tractor in this discussion has DEF.

Did you do any basic troubleshooting before you jumped on that wagon?

The waste gate is an internal bypass that opens when boost pressure is maxed. The exhaust gases bypass the turbine wheel of the turbo if open. On top of that, the common rail system is sensing turbo boost. It won't inject fuel if there isn't any boost or not enough of it. That prevents it from...

It may need a certain heat until it binds up. The poster who said he cooled down the turbo and had power back faster than usual got me to that idea.

Are all these models that have problems here turbo engines? If so, are the turbos waste gated? There is a chance that the waste gate gets stuck open and turbo boost is lost.

Yep. And grease on the splines?

A turbo can only created boost if there is enough fuel injected. ECMs in Common Rail Systems monitor both. Now is the question what's been there first, the hen or the egg.

I worked on excavators for some time a few moons ago. We had very tiny suction pumps that we attached to the hydraulic tank and opened a 2" suction line at the main pumps. It worked flawless. Just the other day my son wanted to change the filter at the log splitter. It's got the filter at the...

Out of curiosity, did you or the dealer check the fuel flow from the tank forward? It sounds like something's getting sucked in and blocking the outlet. It's been reported multiple times across any brand. It could be shavings from the molding process of the plastic tank.

Leave the lines loose for a while at the injectors while cranking. You may still have air pockets in the line and it doesn't push through.

Local Kubota dealer brought this up on a MX6000. Then another Kubota dealer mentioned it on a YouTube video reviewing the MX6000. And finally the Massey dealer confirmed that the 2860 qualifies for hobby farm use.

If you have the 2860 with the 12x12 shuttle shift, you also have a different rear end. If you look up the spec sheet, only the 60 hp 12x12 has a higher 3pt lift capacity but therefore a lower ground clearance. It has internal 3pt lift cylinder versus a single external the other models have.

Keep in mind, the 2860 qualifies for no sales tax in Canada. It has to be over 60 hp for that, which the 2860 is. The Yanmar may not qualify for that. Are you aware that there are two cab versions of the 2860? Makes a difference.

There is a so called suction control valve on the injection pump. It's very close to the front filter. I could imagine he disrupted the wires.

Never connect a hydraulic circuit that needs to provide high pressure on a return or tank line of an existing system. That's murder.

Two things that would draw me to Deere in that case. Deere has a better, sturdier front axle. And if I'm not entirely wrong, when they switched from 5xx5E to 5xx0E, from that point on they don't have a DPF filter anymore. All 3 cylinder 5E are DOC only. A big advantage over a DPF in my opinion.

I'm eager to hear from you. I can pretty much copy your (long) write up. I'm downsizing. Sold the cows and don't need a big tractor anymore. Deere's 4 series is out of question. Even when we had good experience with our two Deeres that we have/had, but they priced themselves out. Then I looked...

There is no "rich" in a diesel as it is in gas engines. The only thing that could interfere with the air/fuel mixture is restricted air flow. Many times the quality of fuel was mentioned. Even when dyed fuel might be labeled as "DPF compliant". It's one more thing the system has to deal with...

Holder is an old traditional brand. As far as I know, they still exist and focus on municipal machinery. My father bought a 1957 single axle tractor in the early 80's. 500cc two stroke diesel, 10 hp. It was handed over to me. Had to sell it when I moved to Canada. Holder still has a place in my...

That's how it ends when you try to save a few buck during your purchase. Did you at least change your fuel filter? It sounds you're starving on fuel under load.

Did you figure it out yet?

As long as they are not exposed to sunlight, thats possible. Your hoses were obviously in the engine bay and quite protected. Hoses on the loader are exposed to all kind of threats. Sunlight, physical impacts and constant movement.

They may have installed just a diverter valve. For that, you need to hold the button and curl/dump the bucket function.

No chance if it was colder than 10f for a longer time. I found frozen lumps in June.

I don't know your specific tractor. But quite likely, you have to remove the stub from your rear end of your tractor. As far as I remember, some tractors had a certain spot to store the other speed's stub on the back. That way, the stubs were within reach when it came to change them. The end of...

I don't want to sidetrack this topic. But how is your general experience with your 2860? I'm looking into that series but there is barely any info out. How does it hold up? Any brake downs? Cold start capabilities? What's your use? Pm me please not to disturb this topic too much. Thanks

If it has an electric fuel pump, usually there is no bleeding like old school necessary. Just turn the key on and let it sit for two minutes. That's why your manual doesn't state anything specific. The same with JD. That's the nature of common rail fuel systems.

Seems like you confirmed what I thought about the Perkins. They last forever. A farmer once talked about his MF combine to me. He said, as long as there is oil in the engine, you can run them glowing hot and they still keep on going forever.

Following. I just talked to our local dealer in Manitoba. He said new orders are about 6 months. I'm in the same boat. There is not much info out there in regards of reliability.

I have a 6430 with a H340 loader and Euro style coupler. I wouldn't even consider anything else. I'm planning on selling the 6430 and downsize to possibly a Kubita MX 6000. The standard SSQA will not be accepted. Will have the dealer to put a Euro stile coupler on. As stated above, the failure...

The wording "air pocket" is not quite right. It's vacuum. The rest of your statement is head on. The hydraulic system is sealed. There is no way air could get into the system except there is a leak on the suction side of the pump or the fluid is low in the reservoir. To lessen or solve the...

Away from more weight to the ground and this resulting in more traction, filling the fronts doesn't do more than that. Depending on the tire size, there might not go much in anyway.

I hope you didn't run the pump(s) dry due to no oil. It may have shortened the pump's life.

A battery that holds 11 volt under a load test is good. If it drops down to 10 then the end is close.

Are you sure your couplers have npt thread? Could as well be bpt. The image doesn't say either. That's straight and npt won't thread in very far.

Would be worse if the teactor had no lever for the 3 pt hitch.

Coolant in any oil is a killer. No matter in which system. It eliminates the lubrication properties of the oil over time. Would be interesting to know what reputation that said mechanic has who had this idea.

You may find more info for your specific engine on the Yanmar website.

The supply seems tight on the T6 5W-40 for quite some time now. It started with the little bug a few years ago. My son works at a truck repair shop. That's the most used oil on their floor. At some point they had to delay oil services due to shortage.

Use 5W -40. And you're covered from Canadian cold to Southern heat. All year long.

Nebraska tractor test is reporting fuel consumption during their tests. I don't know if they test that small series tractors.

The pressure in a hydraulic system has no affect how stiff the control handles. If it's cable operated, a drop of oil might help. Plus break in time. Look into a self leveling loader. All the balancing won't be needed anymore. All you need to do is lift or lower. Nothing else. It's a few bucks...

I think you have to reread some info on TYM. They do use the Kukje engine in some models. But use Yanmar and Deutz as well. I still doubt that the Kukje is an identical clone of the Cummins engine. Kukje "built engines to Cummin's specifications". That is from the press release when they...

Don't buy 39 hp if you use only 24 of them. That's when you run into trouble with the aftertreatment. No matter which brand. Keeping the Rpms above a certain point might help but it doesn't put any load on the engine to keep the systems happy.

8.2. But you will have less than that at the front of your loader.

Quite likely it's crude. It comes in the fuel. Where do you source your diesel from? It might be a filtering issue at your supplier but there is always residue present.

Where in this whole story was a mention of DEF?

What I could see on your regen report and the dealer comments saying "regen while low soot load". That makes me think the problem is not engine related. If it was, the soot level would be high. The dealer replaced ECU and sensors. But what about the harness? Might be worth a shot. But needs to...

The last thing I connect is the top link. That way I have better access to the PTO area. I can turn the stub at the tractor by hand if the engine is shut down. Did somebody ever consider using a spanner wrench on the tractor side to turn the stub?

You did your homework. If you're that close in the circumference, just go for it. Imagine you'd replace only front or rear tires and keep the old ones on the other end. There might even be a bigger difference.

About 10 years ago, I had continued problems with the batteries in my semi truck. I bought the highest CCA's that the local truck supply store had. The problems continued. An old shop owner then told me to go down to about 700 from the 1000+ CCA's. He explained it that way: in high CCA...

If your engine has a common rail fuel system, and the code says something similar to "low rail prssure", then there is the possibility of a problem with the fuel supply solenoid. I had one fail on a John Deere. The dealer walked me through the process. First step, check for sufficient fuel flow...

The initial rumble when you turn on the Pto with a brush hog attached, are the knives. They are kind of "folded" in on the stump jumper and have to sort themselves through centrifugal forces.

I didn't read all the way through. But I think it's time for the neighbor to install a block heater. Some members may know what I mean.

You may experience a difference in the length of the Pto shaft. Make sure you have enough overlap in the shaft parts. As long as it's a 6 spline, they are all the same from the smallest to biggest tractor.

The E model has no quick couplers, the loader isn't quick disconnect. That's why the OP sent the pictures. I bet the 2 and 3 series tractors have the same size hydraulic lines for the loader. Using a T and installed permanently, the gauge can also be used as a scale. Just need to associate the...

I assume you're talking about electronic hitch control. If it's anywhere close to the JD controls, raise and lower the 3 pt from the cab control. At some point it will "catch" the position and will work as usual.

Simply put, using a backhoe as counterweight for a loader puts too much stress on the equipment. Something needs to let go. Take smaller bites or buy a bigger machine.

Do you mean this? I don't own a Mahindra, but I would interprete it as water in fuel indicator. Drain your primary fuel filter. It only takes a drop of water for those to react. They are sensitive and so is your fuel system to water.

That sounds gutless. To me it seems it has some ticking in the engine. Did you check the valves? Next step after that is a compression test.

There is quite a bit of difference between 1977 and now. Different technology so to speak. Yes, that 10% sounds about right. In Germany, the winter diesel standard is set at -22C. If it gets colder than that, manufacturers recommended to add gasoline. It doesn't get that cold anymore.

Deutz engines are the same up to about 80 Hp. Wherever they are used, whether in their own tractors or TYM. There might be others too.

In Canada, a 5080D has DOC only as aftertreatment. No DPF or DEF. I'm still contemplating whether to sell the JD 6430 Premium or not. It's just too big for me. To replace it, 5080D would be the first choice.

The block heater could be the problem. If the temp sensor and the block heater are too close to each other, the sensor is reading too warm and doesn't keep the glow plugs on long enough. Try starting it without the heater or not plugged in as long as usual.

Yes. It's normal. The clutch packs are activated by hydraulic pressure which doesn't exist when the engine is off.

Copy above comment. If it's a electric power reverser (every manufacturer uses different names), other than a mechanical lever, the clutch is activated the same way. No matter what you use. Your clutch pedal has no mechanical connection to the clutch itself. It has an electric position meter...

Change your filters and get rid of that fuel that you have in your tank. Go on YouTube and enter the following: "what is the best anti gel for diesel." Howes is the worst you can do to your tractor. I observed some frost on my tank lid. I've use CleenFlo. It removes moisture from the tank.

I agree on the amps. The experience we made with some timers, the clock stops when too cold.

Cleanliness of the fluid and the area around the filler neck has to be a priority. Don't forget to top it up every now and then. Otherwise enjoy the clean air.

They are in business for a long time. Developed to work on extreme slopes. If you plan to work in the flats, there are better options.

You may want to look into the newer style R14 tires. They are a mix of both worlds. As far as I know, they go on the same rims like the R1. For turf tires, you need different rims.

I don't see any unusual behavior of either you or the tractor. I experience the same on JD 6430. As higher the Rpms, as rougher the shuttle. I grew up on standard transmission vehicles. I use the clutch pedal all the time when changing directions or getting going.

To add a bit to this confusion, Fendt is using Deutz engines in some models.

Deutz is not Agco. Deutz was aquired by Same. Thus the name SDF, Same-Deutz-Fahr.

One more reason to support local busyness.

Your rock shaft assembly is out of alignment. There are some procedures to get it back to working again. Your best bet is to Google "rock shaft adjustment". At this point, I can't help any further.

I had a 4200 with milky trans fluid. I ran it for quite some time until it literally froze in cold temperatures. Changed the fluid and flushed the lines and cylinders to steering and on loader. Quite a process but worth it. It prevents you from dumping the oil a second time. Even with flushing...

This a good example when people assume, if multiple machines are built by the same manufacturer that they are the same. For example, LS/New Holland or Kukjie/Cummins engines. The same applies for filter manufacturers.

I didn't read all the comments. I just recently talked to a person who worked once at our JD dealer. He said: "the first machine is sold by the sales person. The second machine will be sold by the parts and service department". The way your dealer acts is unreasonable. I'd like to talk to...

Because you only need two types of oil. Motor oil and transmisdion/gear oil.

Any update?

Do you possibly have your PTO on, set at 540e? Or just partially? Play around with levers and switches related to the PTO.

Filled tires keep the tractor more planted. It's not that bouncing. Radial tires is the way to go.

I've got a 6430 and surprisingly, there are barely any grease points. The knuckles and the pivot pin at the front axle, a few at the three point hitch, the axle seals and one on the drive shaft between motor and transmission. The one on the 4wd shaft towards the front axle is shown in my manual...

Electronic controlled injection does not mean automatically common rail. As far as i know it's called pump-nozzle system. The injectors get their fuel supplied under a pressure of about 100 PSI. Like the name suggests, the pump section is part of the injector nozzle. A injector lobe on the cam...

On a H340, I had a sqeal for years that I couldn't figure out. Only on the curl function. I greased the hell out of the pins. Till I figured out it was that spring making that noise.

Double that.

Then take the advice to use a controller.

Any update on a possible new ownership?

To me, the wire seems not related to your problem. It might be the wire for a third function. Once you say it's cranking, then you say it's not. What does it? You may have at least one or more shorted out glow plugs. That's why it throws the fuse. Did you repeated glow plug cycling with your...

Why would you play with a propane tank? Go to a wrecker and get an air tank off a semi truck. All kind of shapes and sizes are available with standard connections for air lines present. They run on higher pressures than your domestic shop compressor will provide. And no, they do not explode...

3 hours would be too much. In less than an hour I could get to any major dealer. And I thought we live in a remote area.

No option for the shuttle. Except you go up to a bigger series. It has the turn buckle style stabilizers. I personally prefer that style over a pin system. I'm not changing attachments every day or multiple times a day. The non extendable links should not be a problem for me. To the previous...

I had a chance to look at a 5080D. At some point, it's a budget tractor. But in many points they are different from other budget tractors. No other tractor that I searched had real 4 wheel brakes. The front axle itself is immense. Radial tires at a decent size and no cutting wheels at the...

Ok.

Did the Deutz have a loader installed when you looked at it? Where was the loader joystick mounted? I found some pictures where the joystick was mounted on the side of the dash. I found out Deutz has manufacturing facilities in Europe and Asia. Would be interesting what's on the ID plate.

Buy some horses. They eat all the grass. No need for cutting grass anymore.

You can do that on older diesels. I would not recommend this in a newer engine with DPF.

Just make sure you're not getting a hood from a Tesla. Might not work. When the last VW Beatles got retired, many roofs got cut off and used as sleds.

That's it's habitat. 3 bottom plow all day long. Could possibly even handle 4 but you need weight the front down.

I'm perfect in French. Just not in public. Private only.

To the OP, first, stay away from SSQA in that Hp/weight range. It will not hold up. Some dealers don't even provide that option over 70 Hp. Look into Global Carrier. You are on the right path. JD 5 series and Kubota M4 are a tad too small. I am fortunate enough that my wife forced me to buy a...

You need to understand one significant difference between farming in the US compared to Europe. At least where I came from, a 75 HP tractor was the main tractor on the farm, doing all the heavy work. In North America, it's called a utility tractor, doing lighter jobs. The Deutz will last you a...

And don't be surprised by the pronunciation. Even after 14 years in Canada, my kids still give me some looks sometimes. "Dad, you sound weird". I just live with it.

There is no "pin pushing" to get a shuttle shift going. The control valve puts pressure on the wet clutch packs to get the clutch engaged and tractor moving. It's two separate packs for forward or reverse.

I think 80% of the posted problems with regenerations is a lack of understanding the procedures by the operator. A "parked regeneration" is only the plan "B" if plan "A" failed. Plan A is to do business as usual.

A gallon of gas contains less physical energy than a gallon of diesel. That's why you need more of it to get the same work done.

Don't they have extended power train warranty? Contact your dealer before you touch anything.

I had a calf that kept pushing its way out at a gate under the electric fence. I had the so called spring gates there. Removed the lower 3 springs and put electrified barb wire in instead. Never seen it outside afterwards.

Watch their video. It explains how it works. At full speed, it's gear driven. Anything slower is hydrostatic. No plaetary gear involved like others.

You can get a hydrostatic tractor from 70 to 500 hp if your pockets are deep enough. Look at Fendt Vario.

If I remember the manual correctly, my 2012 6430 has lower link control. They may have used it even longer.

You also need to lower the loader down to a certain hight. I have a H340 self leveling.

The "T" allows higher weights and speeds than the "L". That's why it's not included in "B".

Went on a German website for the EU driver's licenses. A car license is called class B. To drive a tractor on the road and up to 40 km/h, you need a class L which is included in class B. You should be good to go on that.

Again, from my experience from Germany, the tractor license was included in a car driver's license. In the early 2000's, the driver's license classes got all European "Unionized" and are expressed in letters. A German class E is the same as a French class E. ( I just used the letter E as an...

That problem is weird, to say the least. A bad relief valve can cause excessive heat. But at the same time, there should be a noticeable loss of performance in the hydraulic system. Since the system itself is open center, there shouldn't be enough pressure to even push a damaged relief valve...

I did not read all the posts. I'm originally from Germany. That's how it was there before I moved. I'm not sure about France but might be close. Every vehicle that's used on public roads needs to be insured and licensed regarding it's classification. With one exception that was mostly used on...

Look into Karcher. We have a fairly small model and it claims to suck water. Never tried. Would easily run on your generater. The washer itself is lightweight.