2 Acres half Woods and Lawn Is this B2320 for me?

[Avery11]

That Deere price seems high to me, but they may be charging a lot more for the mower than I expect.

If ground clearance is important, I question the desire for a SCUT. Based on previous discussion, maybe you should have a dedicated mower and a CUT. That's what I do, and many other folks here too. It's hard to get a machine that mows well and also is capable in the woods and for heavy work.

R4 tires are intended for worksite/construction use and for supporting heavy loads. The don't have the traction of an R1 or the turf-friendliness of turfs. So they aren't really a compromise between the two factors you cited at all -- they are just worse at both things. My R4 tires tear up my lawn considerably unless it's bone dry. I'd never want to mow with them. I chose them because they were the best option for loader work and general construction work.

That's good to know on the R4 tires. I could swear I read a threat where a fellow said they were fine on his lawn. As for 2 machines, I was really hoping to get down to 1. I'm afraid I couldn't justify the expense for a CUT dedicated only to "tractor" work. Perhaps I am trying to convince myself I can justify a purchase when a rental would suffice? Food for thought.

I have received 2 quotes now via email that are within $100 of each other for the JD. When I replied to one dealer asking if the price was firm or if they would work with me on the sale I received the following reply just minutes ago. Seemed pretty abrupt to me:

"Thanks for your update and where you are at with your
purchase process.I agree with most of what you have said and
yes the proof is in the pudding so come on over and spend
sometime on our product and you will see the difference.And
by the way im the boss and i gave a awesome deal to start
with.I dont like to play around with prices.I will be
staurday i look forward to meeting you and going over our
product."

 

[brasco426]

It sounds like you're getting close. As with any of the brands there are differences, what helped me decide was knowing what I needed the machine to do and what machine fit best. Some have better loader control valves, some have that cooling fan issue. However all make great products. However realize machines have their limits and all will be good. For what it's worth, some brands liquid cool the hydros differently than it being underneath the tractor cooled by a fan that has been a problem for some. It all comes down to what you need from tractor and the work it will produce. Donnie

 

[Avery11]

It sounds like you're getting close. As with any of the brands there are differences, what helped me decide was knowing what I needed the machine to do and what machine fit best. Some have better loader control valves, some have that cooling fan issue. However all make great products. However realize machines have their limits and all will be good. For what it's worth, some brands liquid cool the hydros differently than it being underneath the tractor cooled by a fan that has been a problem for some. It all comes down to what you need from tractor and the work it will produce. Donnie

Brasco,

Since you are in my neck of the woods, can you tell me your experience with your particular type of tire? Do you mow? How does it treat your lawn. Also, since you know the terrain in the woods (generally), do you think a SCUT would get by? Thank you.

 

[brasco426]

I have r4's on mine, however the ground in NH is too wet and soft for any tire to not damage a lawn. As of yet I haven't mowed with mine, first spring with the machine. All machines have their limits and just be aware of them. I think for the size property and primarily what you'll be doing you'll be just fine. SCUTs aren't really woods machines however if you'll be maintaining or making small trails you'll be ok. Just make sure the ground is dry so you don't sink in mud, ask me how I know lol. If you go with the bx I'd recommend the skid plates from bxpanded. With that said my SCUT has done all I needed it to do with ease. Move snow, dirt, horse poo lol. My Mahindra Max cools the hydro by piping the cooling coil up by the radiator so I dont have a fan in that spot to worry about burying and breaking. It doesn't have refined loader controls like the bx, not a deal breaker for me. It has a pin on bucket, not a ssqa, however wasn't a deal breaker for me. It does have a quick park fel which is nice so I can remove it when I do mow. The FEL also comes with a grill guard not an option, I'd also recommend that. The rear end is steel and no aluminum like the Deere. Like I said find what fits and works for You! I think size wise for your land a primary uses a SCUT is a better fit, but that's only my opinion and is worth what you paid for it. Donnie

 

[s219]

That's good to know on the R4 tires. I could swear I read a threat where a fellow said they were fine on his lawn. As for 2 machines, I was really hoping to get down to 1. I'm afraid I couldn't justify the expense for a CUT dedicated only to "tractor" work. Perhaps I am trying to convince myself I can justify a purchase when a rental would suffice? Food for thought.

I have received 2 quotes now via email that are within $100 of each other for the JD. When I replied to one dealer asking if the price was firm or if they would work with me on the sale I received the following reply just minutes ago. Seemed pretty abrupt to me:

"Thanks for your update and where you are at with your
purchase process.I agree with most of what you have said and
yes the proof is in the pudding so come on over and spend
sometime on our product and you will see the difference.And
by the way im the boss and i gave a awesome deal to start
with.I dont like to play around with prices.I will be
staurday i look forward to meeting you and going over our
product."

I have read some crazy things about tires on TBN (it can start debates). In fact one person claimed the R4 was a hybrid between R1 and turf, to be easier on the lawn. Truth is, the R4 evolved as an industrial/construction tire, focused on supporting loads on harder surfaces and being more puncture resistant. Turf never factored into it. You'll find them on backhoes and other construction equipment as well as tractors. It makes a great tire for general use and when a lot of loader work is being done, or when operating in construction/industrial settings, but really isn't good at much else. R1 is the king of traction in soil or mud, hence the reason you see them on farm tractors most often. Turfs are the easiest on lawns and landscaped surfaces, so you'll see them on mowers and at places like golf courses.

Yes the R4 is easier on turf than an R1, but that's like saying a bulldozer is easier on the turf than a military tank. Both tires are going to do damage if the ground is soft, especially in turns, and especially with 4WD engaged. Turf tires are significantly better on turf than either R1 or R4. Significantly.

What you really need to do is figure out the main purpose of the tractor, then pick tires accordingly and realize they will be a compromise at everything else. That will happen no matter what tire type you pick -- no tire is good at everything. So figure out the main purpose of the tractor and the most important feature your tires should have, and the choice will become apparent.

I have a local Deere dealer that I have bought from in the past, and they are good people, but they generally have a take it or leave it attitude on larger tractors (on riding mowers they are more willing to deal). I remember back in 2011 getting a price on the 1026R (precursor to the 1025R), and then heading over to the Kubota dealer and getting a better price on a larger B model. The B happened to be built nicer too, in my opinion, with metal hood and fenders compared to plastic on the Deere, a proper electric fuel gauge in the instrument panel (Deere's gauge is float based, on the fender), and a host of other small details. it was a no brainer at that point and I bought the B, which served me well.

 

[brasco426]

Well said s219

 

[AxleHub]

That's good to know on the R4 tires. I could swear I read a threat where a fellow said they were fine on his lawn. As for 2 machines, I was really hoping to get down to 1. I'm afraid I couldn't justify the expense for a CUT dedicated only to "tractor" work. Perhaps I am trying to convince myself I can justify a purchase when a rental would suffice? Food for thought.

I have received 2 quotes now via email that are within $100 of each other for the JD. When I replied to one dealer asking if the price was firm or if they would work with me on the sale I received the following reply just minutes ago. Seemed pretty abrupt to me:

"Thanks for your update and where you are at with your
purchase process.I agree with most of what you have said and
yes the proof is in the pudding so come on over and spend
sometime on our product and you will see the difference.And
by the way im the boss and i gave a awesome deal to start
with.I dont like to play around with prices.I will be
staurday i look forward to meeting you and going over our
product."

Avery, with all due respect, the bid response you got from the one dealer was perfectly handled on his part. Getting a bid with details us a fine thing for email . . but you don't try to negotiate them down by enail . . thats something you do face to face. Or at the least by telephone. Dealers get tired of people trying to do nickel and dime negotiating by email because it always means you're trying to play one off the other. When you use the words "can you work with me" they shoukd always be vocal imo - preferably in oerson and honestly stated. It doesn't mean a committment to buy but it does mean a committment to deal with people directly.

 

[Avery11]

Avery, with all due respect, the bid response you got from the one dealer was perfectly handled on his part. Getting a bid with details us a fine thing for email . . but you don't try to negotiate them down by enail . . thats something you do face to face. Or at the least by telephone. Dealers get tired of people trying to do nickel and dime negotiating by email because it always means you're trying to play one off the other. When you use the words "can you work with me" they shoukd always be vocal imo - preferably in oerson and honestly stated. It doesn't mean a committment to buy but it does mean a committment to deal with people directly.

Thank you for the advice Sir.

 

[Avery11]

Avery, with all due respect, the bid response you got from the one dealer was perfectly handled on his part. Getting a bid with details us a fine thing for email . . but you don't try to negotiate them down by enail . . thats something you do face to face. Or at the least by telephone. Dealers get tired of people trying to do nickel and dime negotiating by email because it always means you're trying to play one off the other. When you use the words "can you work with me" they shoukd always be vocal imo - preferably in oerson and honestly stated. It doesn't mean a committment to buy but it does mean a committment to deal with people directly.

For the record, this is what I sent to the dealer:

Thank you for the prompt reply. I am in the early
stages of my research at this point and have looked at
several models. I have narrowed my decision down to
the 1025r or the Kubota 2370-1 - both with the 60" MMM and
FEL. I have your quote and one from a Kubota dealer
and plan to visit a competitor for both brands so I will
have 2 quotes each.


I have driven a Kubota and I liked it. I have
not had a chance to drive a JD but I intend
to and I think I will get used to either platform
with a little practice.

I find value in good engineering so I expect the
JD to cost a little more but the the proof is in the
pudding and without testing your machine, I am
in no position determine its value to
ME.

That said, does your company work with the
customer or should I consider the quote written in
stone? I would like to visit this weekend and take a
ride.

Thank you very much for your time and I look forward to
meeting you.

V/R

 

[GPintheMitten]

Not a good negotiating technique in my opinion.

You can use all those words and how you are going to.make your decision, it does not matter.

Just show up tell him you want to test drive, and then get his best price.

Do that at each dealer.

 

[murphy1244]

Are both machines 3 range HST's.? I think the Bota is and the Deere not. Might be important to you.

 

[Tompet]

Just to recap to see if I followed your thread correctly.
Your neighbor has a like news B2320 with FEL, turfs, several implements and a new mmm for $13k, and your primary concern was mowing. You have used it on your property and felt comfortable running it. And you are pricing Deere and Kubota scut's with mmm and FEL for around $18k whichever color.

Hmm, I would be talking to your neighbor about buying his setup and saving $5k rather than trying to negotiate a few hundred dollars off a Deere or Kubota scut. With turfs on the 2320 it will be negligible difference on lawn compared to scut's you mentioned and as with any of them you would be mowing in 2wd to help prevent damage to lawn. Have other concerns cropped up on your neighbors machine/deal?

Btw, I have owned a Massey scutGC2310 and a Kubota B2920 which was just a little larger model than your neighbors B2320. When I took the BH and FEL off the 2920 it didn't look that much bigger than a scut.
My property is not too much larger than yours with a spit between woods and lawn. However, I do have a ztr for mowing. Good luck on your search.

 

[Avery11]

Tompet,

My main concern with the 230 is whether it would be overkill on my >1 acre lawn. The advantage would be in the acre of woods and the substantial increase in FEL capability. The deal is solid. The owner is a very good friend of mine. The 2320 has been stored outside and has faded a little. Other than a dent i=on the top rim of the bucket, it is fine.

 

[AxleHub]

For the record, this is what I sent to the dealer:

Thank you for the prompt reply. I am in the early
stages of my research at this point and have looked at
several models. I have narrowed my decision down to
the 1025r or the Kubota 2370-1 - both with the 60" MMM and
FEL. I have your quote and one from a Kubota dealer
and plan to visit a competitor for both brands so I will
have 2 quotes each.


I have driven a Kubota and I liked it. I have
not had a chance to drive a JD but I intend
to and I think I will get used to either platform
with a little practice.

I find value in good engineering so I expect the
JD to cost a little more but the the proof is in the
pudding and without testing your machine, I am
in no position determine its value to
ME.

That said, does your company work with the
customer or should I consider the quote written in
stone? I would like to visit this weekend and take a
ride.

Thank you very much for your time and I look forward to
meeting you.

V/R

Greetings Avery,

Now that you've provided the above wording of your early email so we can see the response you received in context . . I am even more confirmed than prior that the person who responded to you is very well schooled in customer service. You expressed a combination of illogical thoughts yet he stayed patient, informative, and polite.

Avery, You can't be in the early stages of consideration . . yet ask if the dealer is willing to work with the bid numbers further. You can't say you will likely adapt well to the product . . At the same time admiting you've never even test driven one.

Neither of these statements is a logical progression imo. You tested and like the Kubota . . But hold the j.d. product in equal regard before seeing it ?????

But my point isn't as much about you as that the dealer you contacted handled the situation so very very well while you considered him a bit abrupt. He was clear communicating . . he summarized he gave you a very good price to start with and that he sets the prices to serve the customer well right from the 1st attempt. All this before you've even been there and before you've had the least experience with the j.d. models. He is showing remarkable professionalism in my opinion. He isn't shutting any doors . . but he certainly is looking for you to come and see the product and evaluate its purposes for you before price is involved further.

All in my opinion.

 

[Avery11]

Greetings Avery,

Now that you've provided the above wording of your early email so we can see the response you received in context . . I am even more confirmed than prior that the person who responded to you is very well schooled in customer service. You expressed a combination of illogical thoughts yet he stayed patient, informative, and polite.

Avery, You can't be in the early stages of consideration . . yet ask if the dealer is willing to work with the bid numbers further. You can't say you will likely adapt well to the product . . At the same time admiting you've never even test driven one.

Neither of these statements is a logical progression imo. You tested and like the Kubota . . But hold the j.d. product in equal regard before seeing it ?????

But my point isn't as much about you as that the dealer you contacted handled the situation so very very well while you considered him a bit abrupt. He was clear communicating . . he summarized he gave you a very good price to start with and that he sets the prices to serve the customer well right from the 1st attempt. All this before you've even been there and before you've had the least experience with the j.d. models. He is showing remarkable professionalism in my opinion. He isn't shutting any doors . . but he certainly is looking for you to come and see the product and evaluate its purposes for you before price is involved further.

All in my opinion.

Thank you for the constructive criticism, Sir.

 

[varmint]

Methinks you should just buy the friend's Kubota, and then spend the extra money on useful things. For lawn use, turfs are king. They work well in snow, and as long as you avoid snags, I have never had any trouble negotiating woods. If I were hauling logs out on a regular basis, it would be different, but for the occasional excursion into the trees, no problem. Chains work well on turfs, and give you a lot of traction in difficult situations, like snow over ice.

The small new Deeres I checked out before I bought our used L3400 (we had the money to buy a new under $20,000 tractor set-up, but chose not to) just didn't work for me. Some had aluminum rear ends, which makes no sense, to me at least. I like to think I got more tractor for less money. So far, so good. In 15 years of using three different used Kubotas, I have never had the first problem, period. Some loader work, some wood hauling, grave lane maintenance, some post hole augering, and lots of snow clearing, with a rear blade at first, now with a front mounted plow. My avatar, if that's the correct term, shows what chains and 33 hp can do in 2' of snow. With the weight box and loader removed, I can drive over grass without much damage in 2 wheel drive, as well, so I think with a modest rear mower, I could mow?

All personal opinions, of course.

 

[Avery11]

Methinks you should just buy the friend's Kubota, and then spend the extra money on useful things. For lawn use, turfs are king. They work well in snow, and as long as you avoid snags, I have never had any trouble negotiating woods. If I were hauling logs out on a regular basis, it would be different, but for the occasional excursion into the trees, no problem. Chains work well on turfs, and give you a lot of traction in difficult situations, like snow over ice.

The small new Deeres I checked out before I bought our used L3400 (we had the money to buy a new under $20,000 tractor set-up, but chose not to) just didn't work for me. Some had aluminum rear ends, which makes no sense, to me at least. I like to think I got more tractor for less money. So far, so good. In 15 years of using three different used Kubotas, I have never had the first problem, period. Some loader work, some wood hauling, grave lane maintenance, some post hole augering, and lots of snow clearing, with a rear blade at first, now with a front mounted plow. My avatar, if that's the correct term, shows what chains and 33 hp can do in 2' of snow. With the weight box and loader removed, I can drive over grass without much damage in 2 wheel drive, as well, so I think with a modest rear mower, I could mow?

All personal opinions, of course.

View attachment 463794

Varmint,

You make sense. 18K for a JD or 15.5K for a BX - Both without the attachments or comparable ability in the woods. OR 13K for a much more capable machine with everything I need for now. I am 90 percent there.

My only remaining concern is the suitability of the B2320 as a primary mower for my >1 acre lawn. Mowing will ultimately be my primary use so I want to get this right.

Thanks all for staying with me. I'm sure I am frustrating some. The decision is not always cut and dried but I'm getting there.

 

[s219]

Varmint,

You make sense. 18K for a JD or 15.5K for a BX - Both without the attachments or comparable ability in the woods. OR 13K for a much more capable machine with everything I need for now. I am 90 percent there.

My only remaining concern is the suitability of the B2320 as a primary mower for my >1 acre lawn. Mowing will ultimately be my primary use so I want to get this right.

Thanks all for staying with me. I'm sure I am frustrating some. The decision is not always cut and dried but I'm getting there.

You're doing just fine, we've all been there before. Don't worry about anybody else.

Is your lawn nice and manicured, with trees/landscaping to steer around? If so, the 2320 will be too big/heavy. If the lawn is rougher and more open, it would work. Really, the two issues with the 2320 for mowing are going to be weight and turning radius.

Would your friend allow a test drive so you can try mowing at your place to see how it works out? Even if you just steer it around the place without a mower, that will still give you an idea about maneuverability and weight on your home turf (no pun intended).

 

[TripleR]

The B2320 belongs to a neighbor and friend, mount the MMM and mow your yard then decide, seems simple to me or am I missing something. Even if he wants a rental fee, you'll still be ahead of the game either way.

 

[terryknight]

buy the neighbors kubota, save some money, get a slightly larger tractor, and have more implements. i doubt the B2320 will do any more damage to your lawn than a BX. both have 60" deck so i'm not following what you mean by overkill. it's only slightly larger than a BX. according to tractor data a B2320 weighs 1433-1477 lbs (tractor only) and has a 93.9" length and 45.1" width

TractorData.com Kubota B232 tractor information (tractordata figures aren't always accurate)

while a BX 2370-1 weighs 1410 lbs with a length of 95.5, and a width of 44.5"

TractorData.com Kubota BX237-1 tractor information

personally i much prefer a RFM for cutting grass, but that's here on my land not you on yours. Get the turf tires. i have also had a BX an 1850, too me it was really small. i now have a JD 750 which is slightly longer and heavier than a B series and i find it about perfect size wise