2 in receiver shackle/ clevis for tow straps and chains

[diesel lover]

Anyone ever make one of these ?



If so I would like to see. I was thinking of buying one, and that one at menards seen in the picture above for 30$. Has an 8000 pound rating.

http://www.carid.com/universal-trai...cagpspn=pla"&gclid=CLXH5YuX2LwCFfFDMgodlxkAbw the smitty built hitch is built to pull up to 10,000 pounds but looks the same.
Should I build one or purchase one? Thanks !!

 

[timster2]

I have the HF version, works ok rated for 10,000 lbs. D-Ring Receiver Hitch Its on sale for $10 can't go wrong for that price if you are only going to use it occasionally.

 

[diesel lover]

Yeah I have some menards money to spend so I might buy the one they have there.

 

[BHD]

Big difference between the way the two are made,

one is a light tube (HF) and a weldament and a clevis/D ring is considerably lighter than the smitty built unit solid square tube, and a rated clevis/D ring,

now do you need the heaver unit I do not know, but I would trust the smitty over the HF, unit.

as far as building one drill two holes in a 2 inch tube or square shaft, (check to make sure it fits the receiver first) and find a clevis/D ring that has a two inch mouth,

or take the tube drill one hole and get a piece of round (I will say 5/8" heat and bend around some thing 2" cut and weld it on the tube, make the hole long enough to slip a chain through,

I think I would prefer the clevis over the weld on loop, but both would work.

and possibly weld a chain hook, on the tube as well, so it has a convenient way to hook a chain on,
Buyers Products Weld-On Grab Hook — Fits 3/8in. Chain | Towing Hooks| Northern Tool + Equipment

I have a old truck some one welded a few hooks on the hitch is nice,

 

[bdog]

I have not built one but I have three of them mounted on f-250's that see a lot of use. These trucks weigh 8-9k with all the equipment on them and they get stuck a lot and get pulled out using these all the time. They work great. For the price of them you have a hard time building your own for cheaper once you bought the clevis. I bought mine at tractor supply about five years ago. Not sure of brand.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Btw not recommended to use chain. If it breaks the free end can whip and kill someone. Better to use recovery strap.

 

[BHD]

any kind of tow device, is dangerous if it breaks, rope, chain, cable, tow strap can all be deadly if it breaks,

(I personally do not see as much energy being stored up in a chain as in straps and tow ropes),

I have broke more than my share of chains and as of yet never had them snap,
my son was trying to winching a dead machine on to his trailer and some thing failed and the cable threw a 35 to 45 pound snatch block through the cab of the machine he was trying to load, luckily no one was in the way or they would have been dead,
many years ago the local tractor dealership was moving a tractor or trying to pull start it, not sure, but they had a tow rope (big rope), some how the bolt/pin in the clevis worked it way out of the towed tractors attachment, and the rope snapped and the pin, when through he back of the cab window of the towed tractor, and in one of the drivers eyes and lodged behind the other, severing the optic nerve, I think he has just graduated high school, never did see after that,

so how or what ever you tow with do not skimp and use locking/pined shackles, and keep clear of any towing or pulling, device.

be careful and use common sense and keep clear, and do not skimp on proper attachment points.

 

[diesel lover]

I always use my 2 inch by 20 foot stretch N snatch recovery strap. It stretches so you can yank on it very hard. You should never use one with ball hitches, and never use on anything you think could come off like around a bumper.

I'm not one to use chains, my strap has a strength of 18,000 pounds and break strength of 7,000 pounds. It will do mostly anything I need it to.

IF nothing else and something doesn't go through and I don't have a strap only a chain I can and will use a chain but I will not yank or yank hard on a chain. A chain being yanked on does not multiply energy. Straps and ropes do because they stretch !!

I wanted to get a 2 inch receiver shackle because it's quick and easy. I recovered a van from the ditch last Friday and I had a ball hitch very tight on my normal reciver hitch. I used my ball hitch with lots of caution, I zip tied my strap onto the neck of the ball hitch to insure it would stay there. It does not help anything to remove my ball from my hitch because I will need to tow a trailer with the ball tight on the hitch.

After I needed pulled up a GLAZED ice hill this winter I decided having two receiver hitches is the best option. One for towing trailers (etc), and one with a 3/4 or one inch shackle for vehicle towing and recovery.

I know what a 3 inch shackle can and will do!! I trust most 3/4 inch shackles but I change to a larger shackle if needed. A one inch shackle can do most task without breaking.

The large issue with a harbor freight design is it cannot have any side load not even a few degrees. I find it dangerous for any recovery or use age. I will not go less than a 3/4 inch shackle.

Between the smitty built and menards receiver hitches why is one rated for 10k and one for 8k. Are they tested in a factory or what exactly? What determines the rating? Is that max vehicle weight?

 

[ovrszd]

Btw not recommended to use chain. If it breaks the free end can whip and kill someone. Better to use recovery strap.

Not tryin to pick a fight. Just need to clarify this.

A chain is the safest of three, chain, cable, stretch strap/rope. Chain will drop to the ground if broken.

Cable will recoil enough to make it dangerous. Safe way is to throw a coat or blanket over the cable somewhere in the middle. The weight of it will cause the cable to fall to the ground rather than swing in the air.

Stretch strap/rope is the most dangerous to use. If the ends stay fastened and it simply fails in the middle, it'll recoil but will do little damage because there's no weight.

Also, never use a chain with a rope. Never use a strap/rope with hooks on the end. Never use a steel clevis to fasten two straps/ropes together. All of those things become missiles if things go bad. Never stand in the recoil path of anything. Never allow spectators to be any closer than the length of the tow device.

Use a strap/rope enough times and you will see things go bad. Winch/Pull safely Gentleman, someone's life depends on it!!!!

So with all that said, cobble up a receiver shackle/clevis or buy a cheap one and you just increased your chances of failure and possibly injury.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Hmm...I'm willing to be wrong. I don't know. I was just going by what I was taught. I guess the main thing is to be careful and keep people away.

I like to make stuff b u t I would go for something along the lines of the Smitty built store bought unit for this application.

 

[ovrszd]

I always use my 2 inch by 20 foot stretch N snatch recovery strap.

What determines the rating? Is that max vehicle weight?

A 2" strap is fine if using a small utility vehicle like a grocery getter Escape or some other brand. Anything bigger than that, it's a failure in the making.

The ratings of chains, straps, ropes, clevis', etc., are based on a dead constant pull, increasing the load until it fails. Most reputable companies will build in a certain percentage of cushion. For example they might say their equipment is 10K rated when actually it didn't fail the test until it was near 11K.

Buy off brand equipment and you are trusting them to have the same cushion. Chances are they don't. That's why their price is much less.

When purchasing tow/recovery equipment buy safety. Buy cushion. As an example, I can break your 2" strap with the pickup in your Avatar without being reckless. You should change to a 3" strap for that vehicle. Or better yet, a quality 1.25" or 1.5" rope. Viking makes some very high quality ropes that have a much softer stretch than any strap.

Remember Winch/Tow safely Gentlemen!!!

 

[ovrszd]

Hmm...I'm willing to be wrong. I don't know. I was just going by what I was taught. I guess the main thing is to be careful and keep people away.

No worries. If you've ever saw a stretch strap/rope or a winch cable fail, you would know without being taught.

The only time a chain becomes dangerous is when it's used in conjunction with a strap/rope or winch cable. Then it becomes the hammer head being catapulted by the hammer handle (energy stored in the strap/rope or cable).

 

[diesel lover]

A 2" strap is fine if using a small utility vehicle like a grocery getter Escape or some other brand. Anything bigger than that, it's a failure in the making. The ratings of chains, straps, ropes, clevis', etc., are based on a dead constant pull, increasing the load until it fails. Most reputable companies will build in a certain percentage of cushion. For example they might say their equipment is 10K rated when actually it didn't fail the test until it was near 11K. Buy off brand equipment and you are trusting them to have the same cushion. Chances are they don't. That's why their price is much less. When purchasing tow/recovery equipment buy safety. Buy cushion. As an example, I can break your 2" strap with the pickup in your Avatar without being reckless. You should change to a 3" strap for that vehicle. Or better yet, a quality 1.25" or 1.5" rope. Viking makes some very high quality ropes that have a much softer stretch than any strap. Remember Winch/Tow safely Gentlemen!!!

Good to know. In time I would like to buy a 3 or 4 in by 30 foot strap or rope!! I hear ship yard rope works the same as bubba rope!! I would really like something like that. The rope stretches more than a strap. I see nothing wrong with something 30 foot long as some of the situations require something 30 foot in length. With good clevis/ shackles I see nothing wrong with doubling up a 30 foot either to provide even more strength.

You are right rope has a much tighter stretch!! Could I buy shipyard rope and safely make my own?

 

[ovrszd]

I used to know a local guy that worked on Barges in the Mississippi River. He'd scrounge barges that got loose and gather up broken ropes. He could weave a loop in the end professionally. I bought several ropes from him in various sizes and lengths. I had a dozen when my shop burned and I lost them all. He's since retired so I don't have access. They worked pretty good and you definitely didn't hafta worry about breaking them. The only drawback was that they had been pulled to their maximum many times before I got ahold of them so their stretch wasn't very soft. But I could buy a 30' x 2.5" rope with loops in each end for $40.

 

[diesel lover]

I used to know a local guy that worked on Barges in the Mississippi River. He'd scrounge barges that got loose and gather up broken ropes. He could weave a loop in the end professionally. I bought several ropes from him in various sizes and lengths. I had a dozen when my shop burned and I lost them all. He's since retired so I don't have access. They worked pretty good and you definitely didn't hafta worry about breaking them. The only drawback was that they had been pulled to their maximum many times before I got ahold of them so their stretch wasn't very soft. But I could buy a 30' x 2.5" rope with loops in each end for $40.

what would you think the weight rating was? 2.5 inch width rope is huge!!

 

[ovrszd]

I have no idea. I used to have a 2" tow rope that I used to tow trucks. Never broke it. finally had no stretch left.

 

[diesel lover]

I have no idea. I used to have a 2" tow rope that I used to tow trucks. Never broke it. finally had no stretch left.

very cool sounds like pretty ideal stuff. Bubba rope is pretty expensive but I think it last a life time lol

 

[ovrszd]

I bought a Bubba Rope, 30x1.25" I believe. Can't remember the specs but they touted a LARGE rating. Broke it. Nice, soft rope that's easy to handle and store. But not worth much broke in half. Viking is a lot better rope. When I broke the Bubba I had a Viking connected to it. Viking held up, Bubba broke.

 

[diesel lover]

I bought a Bubba Rope, 30x1.25" I believe. Can't remember the specs but they touted a LARGE rating. Broke it. Nice, soft rope that's easy to handle and store. But not worth much broke in half. Viking is a lot better rope. When I broke the Bubba I had a Viking connected to it. Viking held up, Bubba broke.

How on earth did you break a rope rated for 52,000 pounds? 25 tons
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007H...12fc7496#ref=mp_s_a_1_3&qid=1392852102&sr=8-3

 

[ovrszd]

If you need a strap/rope, it's because a tug on a chain won't do the task at hand. So,, what becomes necessary is to multiply the weight of the tow vehicle by stretching a strap/rope. That is done by backing up until you have slack and hitting the end of it as fast as you can. If that does not work, back up a little farther, if that does not work, back up a little farther...... With a 30' rope hooked to a 5Klb vehicle how much force can be generated when you take a 30' running start???? Evidently enough to exert more than 52,000lbs of pulling force.

Pretty simple actually. That's why I'm suggesting to you that a 2" strap needs to stay in the Grocery Getter.