2 post or 4 post vehicle lift ideas

[Too many Kubotas]

If they are always resting on the tires how would you replace them? I haven’t had a problem lifting vehicles to service them in the last 62 years I have been doing it

Surely you are attempting to be funny here.

There's difference between using the included (or other jack) to change a tire, or a lift to perform work on vehicles, compared to long term storage on a 2-post.

I've never had issues with lifting vehicles either, especially not since buying the 10-ton crane, but that doesn't mean vehicles don't flex when not supported by the tires.

And to clarify it especially for you, or on bare rims.

 

[Code54]

I currently have a smaller two post lift. I am shopping for a 4 post. The two post is fine but sometimes the arms dont really extend to where I really need them so I need to reposition the car. It is totally useless for my tractors and sometimes (often) a challenge for my side by sides and ATVS.
I dont have any plans on pulling truck cabs so the four post (I believe) will be more functional for me. I have a gantry crane in the shop and can borrow an engine lift for my buddy if I would ever need it. I find I use my lift for maintenance 99% of the time because we have fairly new machines. My two post has never failed but I have to admit I am not super comfortable under it and always checking the balance of the vehicle and thinking about "if I pull this off, will the balance point shift."
As for rotating tires and brake work I will have a jack pan or roller on the 4 post. I often find that to just rotate tires I can grab the big floor jack and lift one side of the vehicle and change them almost as quick as putting it on my two post and checking everything. Honestly I also dont want to lift the tires very high so the jack and a stand allow me to keep the tires about 2" off the ground so there is not a lot of lifting.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Honestly I also dont want to lift the tires very high so the jack and a stand allow me to keep the tires about 2" off the ground so there is not a lot of lifting.

Oh, c'mon. With the lugnuts at eye level it's so easy to see them.

Alright, this was not for tire changing or service, but to wash Colorado's finest magnesium chloride off of the chassis. Using only the little 8K crane.

Would I want to leave the vehicle like this for extended periods? Of course not. But it probably wouldn't be any harder on it than sitting on a 2-post.

 

[aircommuter]

Surely you are attempting to be funny here.

There's difference between using the included (or other jack) to change a tire, or a lift to perform work on vehicles, compared to long term storage on a 2-post.

I've never had issues with lifting vehicles either, especially not since buying the 10-ton crane, but that doesn't mean vehicles don't flex when not supported by the tires.

And to clarify it especially for you, or on bare rims.

Long term storage is wasted space with a lift. For one thing you can’t use it. It is also in the way for other work.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

I agree.

 

[aircommuter]

Surely you are attempting to be funny here.

There's difference between using the included (or other jack) to change a tire, or a lift to perform work on vehicles, compared to long term storage on a 2-post.

I've never had issues with lifting vehicles either, especially not since buying the 10-ton crane, but that doesn't mean vehicles don't flex when not supported by the tires.

And to clarify it especially for you, or on bare rims.

They flex when supported by the tires when you’re driving anyway.

 

[SteveS42240]

I have built a new "shop" and am looking at lifts for it. All of the 4 post lifts I have looked at have a ramp to drive on. I prefer the openness of the 2 post and that is what I plan on going with. And as someone else said, I'm going with a 12K lift for security.
Steve

 

[mslaw1]

I'm considering a 4 post for a lot of the reasons mentioned above. I'm not securing it to the floor so I can move it around. Some take 120 and some 220volts. I'm planning on working on a few project cars and will have a moveable jack for supporting the vehicles while I do brake and rear bearing replacement.

Just a couple of other thoughts and things to consider that I did not see mentioned. Consider mounting the doors so the swing in. They are more secure. You didn't say which way was north but I limited my northern exposure as the cold wind comes right in those 12' doors.

Thank you for your service and congratulations on a nice shop.

 

[Dukeisok]

I have an 11k 2 post asymmetric lift that I use all the time. I bought mine off Amazon (risky but has worked out). It's a Triumph and I paid 2700. I have a 30x50 shop. I mainly do vehicle maintenance, so brakes, tires, oil changes... a four post lift would not have suited my needs. I've lifted everything from a golf cart (quite difficult to get it positioned with the pads under the frame rails) to my f350 and a skid steer. I chose an open top, which came in handy with the skid steer, and allows me to use all tge 16 foot building height, though the floor cables are a not of a pain they have not precluded any with I needed to do. I planned the garage with the lift in mind (the concrete specs matter). For my lift, 4000 psi concrete 6 inches thick was sufficient. We dug a continuous footer then poured the entire floor 6 inches thick 4000 psi fiber reinforced pump mix (because of building location, hard to get a mixer backed up to it). I had the electrician run a 30 amp drop to it. I installed the lift on a Sunday afternoon. The instructions were nonexistent, but it was straightforward enough that I figured it out. I installed the lift in a straight line to the door close enough to the back wall that I can reach my wall mounted tools to work under the hood.

It worked for me and I would do it again.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

They flex when supported by the tires when you’re driving anyway.

Jeez. Yes, just like they are engineered to.