2320 questions before purchasing

[Mackinac Joe]

Hi Phil D,

I use exactly the same setup you describe -- 2320, 62D mower, loader, and 54" front blade. I mow about 3/4 of an acre of yard and I clear about 400' of gravel driveway. I maintain trails for cross country skiiing in 40 acres of woods, a couple small clearings and a large garden. I'm in Central Michigan.

The 2320 with 62D has very good turn radius (better than my 44" 1976 Cub Cadet 1250). I have broken one ROPS-mounted flasher just in 3 years by shearing it off with a tree! It is a bit heavier than the ideal for mowing, but I have never left noticeable depressions with R4 tires. I mow without the loader and the tires are not loaded. My soil is sandy. I can mow it carefully in less than an hour. This includes the major passes through a small orchard (about 20 trees).

In the heat of the summer sometimes I leave lasting "tracks" in the grass that gets the most sun, so I may be getting a bit too much soil compaction. Because of this, I tested a ZTR, but it wasn't that much lighter than the 2320 and the actual compaction may have been no better. Also, the ZTR method of turning actually tore my turf, a problem I have never had with the 2320. The ZTR was a little faster.

I have been very pleased with the 54" blade for snow removal over three seasons. I have the hydraulic angle setup. I use a ballast box with probably 500# in it, no chains. The driveway is level. Probably the biggest snow I've handled all at once was 15". I did not slip badly but I was not driving on ice either. So far I haven't felt like I needed chains, but I have slipped enough to consider them. I've looked into front weights to help keep the front end down, but I don't think the stock front weight kit is compatible with the stock front blade mount. (I could be wrong.) I think the longest it ever took me to plow out after a big snow that came on top of snow was about an hour.

Removal of the blade, as well as the 62D mower and 200 CX loader, is super easy. The blade and the loader cannot be mounted at the same time.

When I was new to the tractor I think I spent nearly 40 hours pushing around 600 yards of sand with the blade to improve my trails in various places. I was limited much more by my skill than the capability of the machine.

I use a 4" brush hog for rough cut on the trails in the woods.

If the ZTR had not torn up the turf on my yard, I would have been tempted to spend the extra to dedicate the ZTR to mowing and maybe get a slightly bigger tractor for everything else. As it is, I'm not disappointed to stick with the 2320 as my "all purpose" machine.

Hope this is helpful. If you'd like to PM me with specific questions, I'll try to answer.

Mackinac Joe

 

[T-Bow]

Hello Phil,

I also have a JD2320 that I use for mowing about 1.5 acres and plowing a 150 foot long paved flat driveway. I have the 54D MMM and the independent lift. My only complaint about the independent lift is that I do not get great adjustment. Pretty much I can get a 3" cut or something like a 1" cut. Since I am happy with the 3" cut that is where I leave it. When mowing, my lawn is open enough so that I can change direction of cut every other time. If I do not do this I think I would see depressions if I followed the same cut path every time. When mowing I do not have anything on the machine but the MMM and my tires are not loaded. I also have turf tires on the tractor. My soil type is clay - I live in Connecticut. I went with the 54D MMM instead of the 62 MMM because one of my friends told me that I might get scalping of the lawn in some uneven places with the larger MMM. I'm happy with the 54D MMM. As far as plowing snow I have the 54" blade with a rubber cutting edge. This winter I only used the blade to move snow. I just used the tractor without any extra ballast and when needed put it in 4X4. I also have a front mounted snow blower. I find that the blower works better when you have a deep snow or an ice packed snow. I'm sure that the plow would work in these situations but since I have the blower I find it easier.

Good luck with your purchase. I am happy with my 2320 and would recommend it if it fits your needs.

T-BOW

 

[Phil D]

The great thing about the internet is moments like this: I've been doing taxes all day and log on to TBN and get great quality respones from this group. I thank you all, T Bow, Mackinac Joe, defreest and gone green sincerely. The cost of the machine with the FEL, 62" mmm and plow is a real stretch for me but the thought of mowing my property this season and the future with my 42" craftsman and 1963 no-power-steering hard-to-maneuver-in-my-orchard Farmall is really depressing! I really appreciate the input from actual users of the machine. My local dealer, a nice guy, didn't seem overly familiar with the machine controls and was trying to convice me that I need 2 machines. I'm still keeping my smaller mower as I have a great cyclone rake attachment for leaf pick-up in the fall but really want to be able to do the bulk of the mowing-both lawn and field/orchard- with the 2320. Do dealers (other than my local guy..??) customarily allow test drives? I keep asking about mowing because my .5 acre of lawn and 2.7+ of field take up more time than I've got to dedicate to the task. I miss my wife and daughter on the weekend! Where are you in Ct T-Bow? Any specific concerns I should be looking out for when considering a used machine?

Again, thank you all for taking the time in responding to my questions!!!!

 

[Phil D]

Another question-sorry-for the group (as TBow mentioned..) is there another hydraulic lift feature for the mmm that will allow a more precise height for the mower other than the independent lift? Thanks again.

 

[texas42]

I also have a 2320 with the 62D MMM. It mows great and the job looks good. I stagger my mowing swaths each mowing to be on the safe side as far as soil compaction. I mow with the 200CX loader on, but remove the bucket.
I run R4's and unless I'm trying to mow when its still wet after a rain I don't leave any marks even when turning as long as I slow to a reasonable speed .
I have the independent hydraulic lift kit and it works fine and the way its supposed to.
For those of you that are having trouble being able to adjust the mowing height please look at the parts catalog for the mower height adjuster that is on the tractor deck. Something is wrong if you can't adjust the mower to whatever height you want and have it return to that height each time. Remember the hydraulic lift is to only lift it - not to hold it. The mower is held at the height you want including all the way up with the knob on the tractor deck.
In the fall I use a Cyclone Rake XL behind the 2320/62D MMM setup. Now that combination is a leaf eating monster but as you can imagine the noise and the dust is pretty stout.

 

[Joe Llama]

I bought a new JD 2320 last July along with the 4 foot rotary brush cutter, FEL and ballast box and I cut 10 acres of overgrown scrub effortlessly. I bought the snow thrower but haven't installed it yet. For rough cutting, the 2320 does an excellent job, but you have to use the low range. The 4WD function helps out in the soft spots. I never buried the unit and I have some seriously muddy areas. I also tow a Vermeer 625 chipper into the woods, an 8 foot utility trailer loaded with firewood and a boat now and then, and this unit performs flawlessly. I sold a Massey Ferguson 65 because it was too heavy (4500 lbs) and because I couldn't maneuver it very well in the woods. The MF was also 2WD and that doesn't help much on soft ground. The 2320 is shurefooted and agile and uses less than a gallon of fuel per hour. I put in about 150 feet of road with the FEL by first putting down 2 inch drain rock and then laying down road base on top of the drain rock and it appears that it wintered very well. I'm located in western Wisconsin and we had about a foot of snow on the ground for most of the winter and it didn't stop the 2320 at all. I used a ballast box but no chains. So far I haven't found anything that this tractor can't handle, within reason. My other tractor is a JD 4010 row crop tractor, used for larger farm work.

 

[jcmseven]

I have owned the following John Deere's: a 495,595,335,757, 4310, 3720x2, 4520 and a 2320, which I have now. In all honesty, I have enjoyed using my little 2320 as much or more than any machine I have used. It is very stout for its size, manuverable and capable. It has a few detriments but they are small:

1. It has a single hydraulic pump. This makes the loader a bit slow and it is somewhat affected in both lift capacity and speed when actively steering. Not a big issue to me with no more than I use my 200cx loader, but if this is an issue a 2520 would be a better choice.

2. The R4 tires are not good in snow. If you have snow removal plans I suggest investing in a set of chains. The R4s are durable tires that are meant to carry weight, not get snow traction. With chains, the 2320 is a bulldozer in snow.

3. The HP is relatively low. For PTO work this is an issue. For example, the 2320 will only effectively power a 48" RC and would struggle operating a 72" RFM. But for ground engagement I am not sure it is not better than its larger siblings.

I would buy another 2320 in a heartbeat. It is a great little tractor that will serve you well.

John M

 

[irvingj]

Phil- JD lists the 2320 as a "Compact Tractor," but if I'm not mistaken it's the same general size as the MF 2310 I have (described as a "sub-compact").

If they are roughly equivalent-- mine, with a 60" mower, does extremely well for me. An excellent cut, agility, and the traction to do some rather steep slopes. I've been very happy with it as a mower, which was a surprise for me- I got the tractor primarily for snow removal (blower). It has saved a ton of time over doing it with my old push-mower.

As you can see, I have turfs on it... and, except for this day:confused2:, have the ROPS up and the seatbelt on for the sloped areas....

Yeah, mine's red, not green, but I think they're both very similar, and make pretty decent mowers- at least mine's a lot better than I thought it would be.

 

[Phil D]

Great info. and thanks, again, to all who have replied. How much does your Massey weigh, irvingj?

Any serious questions I might have with considering a used machine?

 

[jcmseven]

The 2310 MF tractor is the physical size of a JD 2305. The 2320 is quite a bit larger machine physically. It often takes looking at them side by side to appreciate the difference.

John M

 

[tofriendscreek]

I've owned a number of Deere's and I have liked them all. However I LOVE my 2320. I have never experienced it's inability to handle any reasonable task with power, manuverability and safely. I've use it to mow 5+ acres of lawn with a 62" MMM, cut down 7+ acres of CRP with a 5' rear cutter, groom about a mile of trail through the woods, move snow off of a 500' drive, use a 5' box blade, pull a 5' disk etc., etc., etc.
I've never found the pumps to slow or sluggish. The R-4's have never torn up the lawn. It has pushed through some drifts highe than the rear tires without chains. Just pit it in FWD and go. If you use your head, take your time and play it safe I don't believe anyone can go wrong.
I test drove and used a 2520. It was too big to revel through the woods and I felt it would be overkill for my purposes. My 2320 has proved me right.

 

[jcmseven]

I agree. When I speak of the pump and its effect on loader speed, I compare it to the other larger machines I have owned. There is certainly a difference. That said, the 2320 is plenty efficient in loader work for my needs. The other things I have found is that the 2320 really does ground engagement tasks well. It pulls my Box Blade without difficulty and is a strong little machine. I stand by my opinion that the R4 tires are not good in snow. Those I know that use them in snow and like them either are not moving much, are moving dry powdery snow or are operating on terrain that is not challenging. I have slid my 2320 down my drive more than once running unchained R4's. Of course, I did the same with my 4520 and that was more scary. The reason I mention to our OP to get chains if he intends any snow removal is that JD chains for the 2320 are a unique size and hard to find unless ordered through JD or bought aftermarket and modified, which is no fun. They are quite pricey from JD, so he might get a deal getting them with his machine which he may not get later. They make a decent snow removal piece into a real plowing machine and enhance safety a lot. Otherwise the 2320 is an excellent machine. I prefer it to either the 2520 or the 2720 that are much more expensive and really will do no more work--unless loader work is going to be one's primary task where the shortened cycle times add up. Unless one is a professional equipment operator I doubt he/she could be efficient enough to fully appreciate that.

John M

 

[Gizmo2]

I've owned a number of Deere's and I have liked them all. However I LOVE my 2320. I have never experienced it's inability to handle any reasonable task with power, manuverability and safely. I've use it to mow 5+ acres of lawn with a 62" MMM, cut down 7+ acres of CRP with a 5' rear cutter, groom about a mile of trail through the woods, move snow off of a 500' drive, use a 5' box blade, pull a 5' disk etc., etc., etc.
I've never found the pumps to slow or sluggish. The R-4's have never torn up the lawn. It has pushed through some drifts highe than the rear tires without chains. Just pit it in FWD and go. If you use your head, take your time and play it safe I don't believe anyone can go wrong.
I test drove and used a 2520. It was too big to revel through the woods and I felt it would be overkill for my purposes. My 2320 has proved me right.

I agree. When I speak of the pump and its effect on loader speed, I compare it to the other larger machines I have owned. There is certainly a difference. That said, the 2320 is plenty efficient in loader work for my needs. The other things I have found is that the 2320 really does ground engagement tasks well. It pulls my Box Blade without difficulty and is a strong little machine. I stand by my opinion that the R4 tires are not good in snow. Those I know that use them in snow and like them either are not moving much, are moving dry powdery snow or are operating on terrain that is not challenging. I have slid my 2320 down my drive more than once running unchained R4's. Of course, I did the same with my 4520 and that was more scary. The reason I mention to our OP to get chains if he intends any snow removal is that JD chains for the 2320 are a unique size and hard to find unless ordered through JD or bought aftermarket and modified, which is no fun. They are quite pricey from JD, so he might get a deal getting them with his machine which he may not get later. They make a decent snow removal piece into a real plowing machine and enhance safety a lot. Otherwise the 2320 is an excellent machine. I prefer it to either the 2520 or the 2720 that are much more expensive and really will do no more work--unless loader work is going to be one's primary task where the shortened cycle times add up. Unless one is a professional equipment operator I doubt he/she could be efficient enough to fully appreciate that.

John M

After reading these two post... I have absolutely nothing to add.

 

[Phil D]

Once again, astonished by the quality of replies.....thank you all!

I'm off to the new dealer tomorrow for a test drive.

I can assure all the great folks who've actually replied to my original query that I'll have many more???'s very soon.

 

[irvingj]

jcmseven- thanks for the clarification- I never have been sure of Deere model # system and equivalents.... sounds like it might be similar to the MF 1500 series; same 3-cyl. 23HP engine as mine, but a bit larger chassis.

PhilD- the 2310 is listed @ 2600 lbs. I'm sure it's considerably less than that when mowing, as I remove both the BH and FEL. Looks like it might be around 1700 lbs with just the MMM on. No problems with "dents" in the turf.

You'll quickly become addicted to a daily fix of TBN-- some really good folks here, tons of great knowledge. What the internet was designed to be.:thumbsup:

 

[JeffinNE]

Sorry to jump in on this post with more 2320 questions but I see many good 2320 owners have been giving advice here.

I've been considering a 2320 but really want a 72" RFM (probably the Landpride FDR1672 which weighs about 100lbs less than the Frontier
GM1072R) and 3 pt Frontier CA1048 core aerator and am doubting the 2320's ability to handle both. I have slight inclines over my 3 acres. Core aerators pull very hard even up slight inclines in heavy clay soil--My current JD LT190 really struggles up slight grades with my JD 40" pull behind aerator that doesn't have very many or very deep tines. Also, the JD website doesn't even suggest the 2320 for aerators. Wondering if a 2520 or even 2720 would be better--especially for the aerator, but hate to spend the extra $$? Also, for a tiller it would have to be wider than 52" to cover the tracks of the 2320 and again wonder on PTO hp in the clay soil.

 

[saskman49]

Another question-sorry-for the group (as TBow mentioned..) is there another hydraulic lift feature for the mmm that will allow a more precise height for the mower other than the independent lift? Thanks again.

The standard lift uses the height control knob on the floor in front of the seat. It offers very good adjustment of the mower deck, the only thing is the 3pt hitch moves with it but you only need to move the position control very little to drop the deck hence the 3pt does not move very far. You can also lock the deck up when usiing the standard lift control so that the deck stays put when using the 3pt hitch. The only thing with this lift is some tractors come from the factory with the upstop incorrectly adjusted so the deck dosen't lock full up like it should and it only takes a few minutes to adjust it. We mow abt 5 acres with ours and the 62d as well as cultivate and spray abt 10 acres. I have abt 1000ft of driveway to clear and a 200x400 garden. This machine has proven to do everything we have ever asked and more. BGW We have tubes and the tires loaded with Calcium as they have never heard of rimguard around here.

 

[T-Bow]

Hello JeffinNE,

I know we spoke once before about the JD2320 and the CA1048 core aerator. My lawn is relatively flat with a few slight grades and I do not have any problems pulling the aerator with 420 pounds of extra weight added. With that being said though, I do try to aerate when the lawn is damp and yes on those slight slopes I do put it in 4X4. This is really just to prevent the unloaded turf tires from spinning. In the attached pictures you will see the JD2320 with the CA1048. These pictures are not of me using the aerator but just moving it. When I am using it I have the loader on as a counterweight and the suitcase weights are used to weigh down the aerator.

 

[RalphVa]

My 4010 (18.5 hp older version of what's now the 2320) was awesome in the snow with turfs, 53" FEL and Fontier back blade.

I've about 1/2 acre of lawn. I just use a couple self propelled walk behinds. Usually do about a 1/3 of it at a time and rotate around. More fun walking naked behind a walk behind than sitting on the tractor.

Ralph

 

[gonegreen]

More fun walking naked behind a walk behind than sitting on the tractor.

Ralph

Really?