WH401
Platinum Member
All I care about is that it's a cheaper alternative instead of doing 3 oil changes in the same amount of time, and it makes it start easier and it flows much, much better in the winter.
2520 First Service & Questions
- Thread starter larry8818
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hemiguy
Silver Member
Ok guys, I see JD has succeeded in its plan to totally confuse many if not all of its 2520 owners out there. I posted on this subject over a year ago. The manual I got with my 2520 which I took delivery on in late 2006 seemed to be totally screwed up. As you have found, the Hydro service procedure in some or many of the manuals is definitely not correct. I sure hope nobody ends up with damage to their tractor because of this. Also, the incorrect manual has the engine oil capacity wrong at 3.0qts. It is actually very much on the high side of 3.9qts as corrected in the new manual.
Before doing the hydro service I checked my manual and as you have seen the procedure does not match the 2520. I don't know what tractor it is for but definitely not the 2520. I made several phone calls to Deere tech support and a couple of visits in person to my dealer and finally got a new manual that has correct info. You definitely want to clean out that screen filter on the initial and any other change as it will probably have a lot of "stuff" in it as mine did. Straight cut, non-synchro'd gears will mean you'll get a few metal bits in there. You really need to drain those final drives as well.
My old incorrect manual has a code of OMLVU18901 G6 on the inside cover. The corrected one is OMLVU18901 C7. I'd like to hear back if this coding seems to be consistent for all you owners out there. How does dumb stuff like this happen? Who knows?
By the way, I did my hydro/filter change with JD Hy-Gard, TY22000 and it sure looks reddish in the sight glass to me (personally, I much prefer a dipstick). I'm not a lubricants expert, but that's what the dealer sells me when I ask for hydro fluid for any of my tractors. I assume they know what they are doing but maybe I shouldn't be so optimistic anymore.
Before doing the hydro service I checked my manual and as you have seen the procedure does not match the 2520. I don't know what tractor it is for but definitely not the 2520. I made several phone calls to Deere tech support and a couple of visits in person to my dealer and finally got a new manual that has correct info. You definitely want to clean out that screen filter on the initial and any other change as it will probably have a lot of "stuff" in it as mine did. Straight cut, non-synchro'd gears will mean you'll get a few metal bits in there. You really need to drain those final drives as well.
My old incorrect manual has a code of OMLVU18901 G6 on the inside cover. The corrected one is OMLVU18901 C7. I'd like to hear back if this coding seems to be consistent for all you owners out there. How does dumb stuff like this happen? Who knows?
By the way, I did my hydro/filter change with JD Hy-Gard, TY22000 and it sure looks reddish in the sight glass to me (personally, I much prefer a dipstick). I'm not a lubricants expert, but that's what the dealer sells me when I ask for hydro fluid for any of my tractors. I assume they know what they are doing but maybe I shouldn't be so optimistic anymore.
Thanks Hemiguy,
When I did my old tractor I don't remember anything about the rear gears. My new one will get those changed out at 50 hrs.
Guess what? My Ztrak was off on the oil amount too! Not by much but not correct either.
Rob
When I did my old tractor I don't remember anything about the rear gears. My new one will get those changed out at 50 hrs.
Guess what? My Ztrak was off on the oil amount too! Not by much but not correct either.
Rob
This post is very help ful. The difference in manuals appaers to be in which model engine you have. North American , Yanmar 3TNV82A-BMJK Diesel Engine
is the one for the above referenced manual. Where on the engine can you determine which model you have? Is it stamped somewhere?
hanson1999
Gold Member
what weight oil is everyone running in the engine?? are they using 10w-30 or some 15w-40??? i am about to do my 50 hour change and it will be used anywhere from -20 to 85 degrees on this change i am guessing, unless i get another 200 hours before winter hits?? i know the book shows 10w30 but wondering if anyone uses good ol'e shell rotella or anything like that.....
WH401
Platinum Member
I would fill it back up with the regular JD 15w-40 oil and run that until 100, or as close as you can get to 100 before it gets super cold out, (the 15w-40 doesn't flow good at all in cold weather). The 15w-40 will be a better oil for helping it to break in completely. Then, at 100 hrs, I would replace the oil with a good quality synthetic oil, such as Amsoil's 15w-40 HD Diesel and Marine Oil.
I would pass on the newer Shell Rotella as it's all CJ-4 rated and to obtain that rating the manufacturer had to take all the good additives from the CI-4+ oil out. Not having those additives can be a bad thing for non-emissions diesel engines. The only thing it's really good for is the particulate filtered engines on diesel pickups.
