3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser

   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser #11  
Power Reverser is my choice. How do you brake right / left if you have e-hydro?

The turning radius is quite small - not sure how much the average user would need to use a brake to turn sharper.

But if you have to.....................

Simple - flip the between pedal lock and press the left or right brake pedal with the left foot.
 
   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser
  • Thread Starter
#12  
For the price that you list, what options does the 3520 have?

ehydro is well worth the money..:thumbsup:

No options, just the hydro & bucket. I guess those are options.. I thought it was a little high for only having an extra 5hp over the 3320.
 
   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser
  • Thread Starter
#13  
btw-What would be the comparable NH model? I saw an ad for a 1510 package w/ mfwd, loader, trailer & brush cutter for $16,9. This would be the price for a similar 3038 package but I think the 1510 is a little larger than the JD3038/32. I think the 1510 package had a manual tranny though.
 
   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser #14  
Some folks feel the 25 PTO HP...as found on the 3320.... is adequate to run their implements. Myself included. However if you do heavy snow blowing and lots of HD PTO work the extra HP (as found on a 3520 and 3820) may be nice. It's typically thought that the compact tractors run out of traction before they run out of HP on ground engaging work (discs, blades, plows and such). FWIW

Another factor is that the 3320 does not have a turbo and a few more cubic inches. Pro's and Con's to both engines.....but I don't see a need for the turbo....just something else to make noise and a potential service issue at some point. (ok....I said it ;) )

Myself? I'd rather put the extra bux into more accessories (grille gaurd, hydraulic outlets, HD bucket, etc) than buy ponnies I may not need.

Choose carefully.
 
   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser #15  
No options, just the hydro & bucket. I guess those are options.. I thought it was a little high for only having an extra 5hp over the 3320.

So 21750 for an ehydro 3520, with a 300x, or cx? What area of the country are you in?
 
   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Some folks feel the 25 PTO HP...as found on the 3320.... is adequate to run their implements. Myself included. However if you do heavy snow blowing and lots of HD PTO work the extra HP (as found on a 3520 and 3820) may be nice. It's typically thought that the compact tractors run out of traction before they run out of HP on ground engaging work (discs, blades, plows and such). FWIW

Another factor is that the 3320 does not have a turbo and a few more cubic inches. Pro's and Con's to both engines.....but I don't see a need for the turbo....just something else to make noise and a potential service issue at some point. (ok....I said it ;) )

Myself? I'd rather put the extra bux into more accessories (grille gaurd, hydraulic outlets, HD bucket, etc) than buy ponnies I may not need.

Choose carefully.

excellent ideas. I will not ever do much snowblowing being in OK, although we did have a couple of 5+ inchers last winter, maybe even 10" at one time. But it normally melts in 2 days and I could use my angle blade on that. You're right about the traction, my little 790 had about 24pto HP and it ran everything I have just fine through some very rough stuff, like brushhoggin through 1"+ sumac patches and honey locust, etc. I don't ever recall running out of power.

Doesn't the laoder come with the grill guard? You think for less than $1500 I could get a set of tnt hydraulics on the rear?? That would be awesome for my landscaping work.
 
   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser #17  
excellent ideas. I will not ever do much snowblowing being in OK, although we did have a couple of 5+ inchers last winter, maybe even 10" at one time. But it normally melts in 2 days and I could use my angle blade on that. You're right about the traction, my little 790 had about 24pto HP and it ran everything I have just fine through some very rough stuff, like brushhoggin through 1"+ sumac patches and honey locust, etc. I don't ever recall running out of power.

Doesn't the laoder come with the grill guard? You think for less than $1500 I could get a set of tnt hydraulics on the rear?? That would be awesome for my landscaping work.

The loader comes with a "light duty" grille guard. The better one will cost you about 250 more or so. You can get one set of rear hydraulics for a couple of hundred. A (non deere)hydraulic top link is about 200 IRRC.....but I'm not sure what a Deere top and tilt would cost you.

If you go to JD's website and get into the models your looking for you will see the "configurator" which allows you to see and price all the options. Then you know what you want and the prox MSRP when you go see the dealer.

I think you should spend some time there.....you'll get a chance to do some soul searching on options.
 
   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser #18  
... a reverser is pretty quick and you don't need cruise control or keep your foot on the hydro go pedals. All the tasks you've listed require a steady speed...just up the reverser's alley.

Also just up HST's alley! I love cruise control! Lets me drive my tractor with just my left hand if I want to. Or my right foot. And at any forward speed.
 
   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser #19  
A (non deere)hydraulic top link is about 200 IRRC.....but I'm not sure what a Deere top and tilt would cost you.

I was looking at upgrading to add a Deere TnT kit on my 3520. This is straight from an email from my dealer:

LVB25511 Diverter Kit $1,299
LVB25312 Top & Tilt $1,023
Setup Cost $248

Hope this helps.
-Jeff
 
   / 3320 vs 3520 & hydro vs reverser #20  
Last year I got a 3520 and am very happy with it. It copes with mowing, hedge trimming, bush hogging , tilling, log splitting and about everything on the property. I am very pleased with the turbo for the easier starts and extra stamina. I chose the Power Reverser over HST though both were immediately available and the price difference was minimal because I thought it gave a better handling of the tractor. I have never had reason to regret the choice.
 

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