40-55hp CUT or Utility Tractor for 20 acre horse farm in Michigan

[Z-Michigan]

I am still struggling with the best size for our needs. I think 90% of the time an M5040 is going to be rather large for just brushhogging or dragging pastures, and for our own use we could move round bales on the 3ph. However there is a chance we would want to get round bales made up for sale, in which case we would really need to be able to move bales on the FEL in order to load them in a customer's truck or trailer. We might also want to stack bales 2-high for storage. I'm also taking in Brian's comment on tractor size vs. PTO hp for baling. After looking up more baler information it seems that manufacturers are specifying anywhere from 40 to 50 PTO hp to run new production small square balers, and anywhere from 45 to 90 PTO hp to run round balers (the hp mostly relates to the size of baler, it seems). I definitely would prefer to have a dedicated and larger tractor to do a lot of baling, but the FEL capacity to move bales and place them on a truck puts me up to about the same size as the basic utilities for running square balers. I feel like I'm going in circles!

 

[N80]

When you say large do you mean physical dimensions or just more hp/hydraulics than you need? I ask because the M5040 isn't really a big tractor. I'll have to check but I don't think it is way bigger than a MX5000 or L4400.

I say go with the 5040 and don't look back!

Edit: the 5040 is about 17 inches longer, 10 inches wider and has about a 2 foot larger turning radius than the L4400. Bigger for sure but not by much. Still very compact for the hp provided (IMHO).

 

[Z-Michigan]

I say large mostly in the sense that an L4400 (or even smaller) would be adequate for the other routine tasks, and the M5040 is up a notch. I've eyed the M5040 specs a hundred times, but haven't yet seen one in person. It looks big in the photos, but not so big on the spec sheet. Anyway, that is definitely what I'm leaning toward, mostly because it's a small price increase to get a lot of nice features. Haven't ruled out the L5030 or MX5000 either, but they are only slightly smaller.

In a perfect world I would have an M95S for heavy work and something like a TC34D for mowing and dragging and inside-the-barn work. But I can't justify spending on two tractors, and I'm not interested in looking at tractors old enough that the cost would be less than one new tractor.

 

[LoneCowboy]

So, just in comparison
I"ve compared a TC 55 to a TN75 (the TN65 and TN70 are the same physical size)
the TN is about 3 feet longer, a couple inches wider and about 3 times the tractor
On 20 acres, you'd never notice it.

I think for your uses, a small utility would do better would do better than a big compact. And probably last longer.

Some dealers do rentals and even try before you buy. You might look into that. What looks very big on the lot may not be so big on your place.

 

[ergoman]

I have 45 acres, small fields of corn, hay and pasture. I bought a 05' new in 06' TC55 2 wheel drive with a FL18? loader quick attach for either 18-20K. 5 year no interest and 3 year warranty. Loaded tires and a few other options.

My point is that you dont need a 4 wd for most needs in southern michigan, if you stay out of most of the low ground. 4wd is nice, but definately not a neccessity. I live in southern michigan also. I strap 1200lb round bales to the front of the bucket with no problems without weight on the back of the 3 point. Pulls a 3-point moldboard in sandy loam, and struggles with a 10 foot disc without front weights, you'll regret the turf tires if you try to do field work, smaller tractor would be better to mow a big lawn with or without turf tires. You can buy the same tractor as mine with 5-700 hrs on it for around 13-14K cash. You can buy a small baler that works fine for as little as $150, a great baler for $1000, good rake for 500-$800. PM me and I'll tell you specifically which auctions you can do this at consistently. Now this TC is lighter than a TN, but the TC would work. A finish mower isnt the same as a bush hog, it takes several passes for 2-3' grass and it is hard on it. You can buy almost any of th nice 4wd tractors used for the same as a new 2wd, (might be a little more,not much). TN is a great tractor, sounds a little much for 20 acres and not plowing or making hay though. JMO.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Thanks, ergoman. I have been assuming all along that I would get a 4wd (really MFD) tractor, and I assumed that made sense. EDIT: after reading the thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...isons/91041-4wd-advantages-disadvantages.html I think I will keep my focus on MFD.

That being said - well I finally got to see and drive an Mxx40 series this past weekend, a M7040 with cab. It was pretty nice, but I had some issues with the range shift lever and in some ways felt it was built lighter than I would like. I also feel like it is almost too refined, with features like the digital dash readout and the tiny little hydraulic PTO lever - it is great now, but how will it work in 20-30 years? Not crossing the M5040 off the list, but I am taking a close look at JD. I got to see but not drive a JD 5105 and thought both (1) it is quite basic in design and features, but (2) the ergonomics seem really good and everything seems really stout and confidence inspiring. I should be driving a JD 5105 this weekend, and the dealer where I'm going to see it also has a lightly used Kubota M6800 (2005 model, 127 hours, with FEL and MFD) which I will drive and get to compare them side by side. It appears that a JD 5105 will be pretty close in price to an M5040 (both with MFD and FEL) although the M5040 has several additional features compared to the JD.

One question for anyone - the JD dealer I spoke with today strongly encouraged me to get R1 instead of R4 tires. I know that issue has been discussed on other threads in general, but does anyone have thoughts on what makes sense for my particular use? I'm wondering if he may have a point. I won't be on pavement at all, though I will be on a gravel driveway sometimes.

BTW, I have ruled out using a finish mower and will just be getting a bush hog for mowing purposes.

 

[LoneCowboy]

R1's have MUCH better traction
esp in loose dirt

They don't last nearly as long
R4's are like all season's, R1's are like snow tires.

 

[Ford850]

I'm ususally a big advocate of R1 tires. I have them now and will order them on my new tractor. But for your uses I would get the R4 tires UNLESS you plan to move much snow, have hilly land, or plow/disc areas. The R4's will last longer, take more abuse since they are thicker, and handle more weight when using the loader.

 

[SOS]

Wouldn't it be easier to just get a new wife and the tractor you want?

Try the standard TC45a. One of the big advantages for a lady is it is easy to see over the hood.

Watch out though, if she says "Fine, whatever you want" that is NOTgiving you permission!

 

[Z-Michigan]

Wouldn't it be easier to just get a new wife and the tractor you want?

My wife says it would cost me less to just buy two tractors.

Try the standard TC45a. One of the big advantages for a lady is it is easy to see over the hood.

Watch out though, if she says "Fine, whatever you want" that is NOTgiving you permission!

Since the lady has driven much larger tractors than we're looking at (dairy farm jobs), I'm not sure she's concerned about seeing over the hood. I do appreciate the marital advice though - even though we've been married just seven months, I already know that!

Basically I'm still at JD 5105 and M5040 comparison. I see a lot more features per $$ for Kubota, but the JD has its strengths too.

Of course if I could justify two tractors I would get a TC45DA for routine work and a big tractor w/o FEL for field work. Almost makes me wonder if I should just get the size we need now and just buy a second tractor if we do ever want to do our own hay. Decisions, decisions.