5/16 vs 3/8 chain

   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain
  • Thread Starter
#11  
That makes sense, thanks Gary. With FEL the 4046 should weigh around 6000 lbs so 5/8" should be plenty.
 
   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain #12  
Thats only the WLL too. I think the ultimate break strength of chains is 4x the WLL. SO in theory, it would take 37000lbs to break two of the chains.
^^This^^ Min break strength of 5/16" Gr 70 is listed as 18,800# Its what they use on the Jerr Dans. Enuf to fold most trailers in half.
larry
 
   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain #13  
If you have deep enough pockets, consider 5/16" grade 100. It is lighter than 3/8" grade 70 transport chain and almost as strong. The break strength is high enough to cover anything you're likely to carry.

That said, my chain is all 3/8" grade 70.
 
   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain #14  
Heck why not gr120?

Unless pulling anything, anything more than 5/16 gr70 is overkill. Why pay 3 or 4x's more for something that is of no benefit?
 
   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain #15  
I would be curious if anyone here has broke 5/16 grade 70 and how?
 
   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain #16  
I would be curious if anyone here has broke 5/16 grade 70 and how?

I have not and I use only 5/16. I have snapped those 10,000 lb tow straps*, but never a chain.

*And ended up towing out with 4700 lb rated gr70 5/16 that did not break.

About the only thing I use the tow straps for anymore is lifting animals stuck in the mud.
 
   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain #17  
I have skidding logs. Once with the Kubota, and once with my old dodge. The old dodge, it was momentum that broke it. Was skidding along around 8-10 mph and the butt caught a low-cut stump I didn't see. That dodge also made a 5/16 chain un-flexible by stretching the links and they pinched down on eachother.

The time with the Kubota was also skidding a log. About a 20-24" or so ash top. Chained short and with the 3ph raised to get the butt in the air and have maximum traction. Also had loader on and loaded r1's. So tractor was 4k or so + a good bit of weight transfer and slightly downhill. No jerking. Just an easy pull. Moved about a foot and snap. Got a 3/8" and finished.

I have also broke 3/8" gr70 chain more than once. Twice within a few minutes of each other. But had to get the job done. Was demo-ing an old farm house. All rough cut lumber. The "island" of walls in the center of the house surrounded the cinder block chimney. It was all that was left standing and couldn't get the how close enough to knock it over cause of the basement. So pulling was the only option. Dads ford 4500 (12k lbs) would just spin. I hooked to it with my 5500. Again, no jerking. Just a slow steady pull in 1st gear. Ended up breaking 2 chains before we got it down.
 
   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain #18  
Thanks everyone for your replies.

CJONE, what is the reason you would prefer 5/16" over 3/8". Weight? I'm usually one that prefers overkill when it comes to protection/insurance, so I just wondered.

Yes, the weight when fishing the chains through hitches and just handling in general. When I was hauling 20000lb dozers and loaders the 3/8" was needed but for these small tractors a 5/16 grade 70 is more than enough. Have I broke 3/8" grade 70's, yep but it was with winches on the back of D6 cat dozers or pulling loaded trucks out with other trucks and shocking the chain. I have never broke a grade 70 chain either 3/8 or 5/16 using them as intended. A lot of the chains I see broke are standard hardware store chain that do not have a load grade stamped in the link. Grade 3 is a proof coil chain and is only rated to 2650 for 3/8" and 1900 for 5/16. So there is a big difference from grade 3 to grade 7. If they don't have the stamping they are not a graded chain. And yes the DOT will look for this in commercial applications and you will be fined and red tagged if it is required and you don't have graded 7 transport chain. CJ
 
   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain #19  
Yes, the weight when fishing the chains through hitches and just handling in general. When I was hauling 20000lb dozers and loaders the 3/8" was needed but for these small tractors a 5/16 grade 70 is more than enough. Have I broke 3/8" grade 70's, yep but it was with winches on the back of D6 cat dozers or pulling loaded trucks out with other trucks and shocking the chain. I have never broke a grade 70 chain either 3/8 or 5/16 using them as intended. A lot of the chains I see broke are standard hardware store chain that do not have a load grade stamped in the link. Grade 3 is a proof coil chain and is only rated to 2650 for 3/8" and 1900 for 5/16. So there is a big difference from grade 3 to grade 7. If they don't have the stamping they are not a graded chain. And yes the DOT will look for this in commercial applications and you will be fined and red tagged if it is required and you don't have graded 7 transport chain. CJ

Actually you may not be fined if the proof coil rating is sufficient. If they aren't marked, the DOT regards them as the lowest grade of chain made regardless of what they may be in actuality(SEE DOT REGS). Many old chains aren't stamped so you get stuck with lowest grade of spec which may be ok if you are lightly loaded. As for nylon straps, If they aren't marked, I have no idea how you could rate them perhaps on thickness and width but I wouldn't take a chance with them
 
   / 5/16 vs 3/8 chain #20  
5/16" is fine. Lowes has the best deal on it. They are 20' long. Buy 2 and have them cut it in 1/2 then add 4 mor hooks to the cut ends and you are set.

Chris
HF is also a place to look WHEN they have them on sale AND you have a 25% off coupon.

I go to HF about once a month, chains are just a consumable I pick up there when there isn't anything else to use the 25% off coupon on.

I would be curious if anyone here has broke 5/16 grade 70 and how?
Only after skidding logs across pavement and having worn the links thin.
 
 
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