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5010 Gear (No Cab) Leaking Power Steering Fluid
- Thread starter Masempine
- Start date
- Views: 19586
RAHarden
Silver Member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2018
- Messages
- 102
- Location
- Dixon, Illinois 61021
- Tractor
- Mahindra 2555 HST, John Deere 534, Minneapolis Moline UB, M5, Jet Star
He called it a collar. Other called his an adapter. I cant find either on line
Bearing Separator and Puller Set This what the last Youtube video showed. It would work, but it's cheaper to drill holes.
RAHarden
Silver Member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2018
- Messages
- 102
- Location
- Dixon, Illinois 61021
- Tractor
- Mahindra 2555 HST, John Deere 534, Minneapolis Moline UB, M5, Jet Star
I already spent more than $47 on two pullers, u bolts, and angle aluminum. Ha. But the SW holes will always be there. They wont get lost
That's what I thought too! Ha! I'm sure the leak will come back and the SW will need to be removed.
RAHarden
Silver Member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2018
- Messages
- 102
- Location
- Dixon, Illinois 61021
- Tractor
- Mahindra 2555 HST, John Deere 534, Minneapolis Moline UB, M5, Jet Star
I found one at Lowes for $50
I drilled the steering wheel, like we talked about. I drilled completely through and came out the bottom. I drilled it with a 5/16" bit because it was a new bit, easy to drill. I tried tapping the holes with 3/8"-16 tap, but gave up. I set up my puller and the SW came off fairly easy, not too tight. I just drilled two holes and it worked fine. I drilled close to the SW plastic, where the SW cap fits in. If you drill too close to the center, the puller bolt slots are too wide. Mine was still a tight fit, so I used 1/4" bolts. My puller was a small puller designed for removing SW's. I removed the SW, the rubber boots, the four bolts mounting the PS unit to the bracket, the tilt wheel adjuster spring, the "E" clip for the tilt wheel adjuster along with the adjuster arm, the L&R bolts that hold the L&R SW bracket pivot pins in place, I removed the pivot pins, I removed the mounting bracket for the PS unit, I marked and removed the four PS hoses. Hold the PS unit as you loosen the last hose, or it will fall. Mine did, but it didn't hurt anything. I already had the front, plastic, lower dash cover off. It all came apart fairly good. It's just a tight area to work if you have big fingers, like me. I'm taking a break at the moment. I'll go out and start to disassemble the PS unit. That will be the easy part, I hope.
RAHarden
Silver Member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2018
- Messages
- 102
- Location
- Dixon, Illinois 61021
- Tractor
- Mahindra 2555 HST, John Deere 534, Minneapolis Moline UB, M5, Jet Star
I have the Sinjin PS unit apart. The case and covers are hard metal. Difficult to mark with a punch or awl. The unit only has two seals the are sealing the SW shaft. One is a quad ring or some call it an X-ring. The other is a dust seal. I have both of them out and took as many measurements as I could. I will take good, detailed pictures of everything and post them. I was always told, a quad ring should not be used as a pressure seal. The original quad ring has expanded or grown. It doesn't fit tight on the steering shaft. It also is thinner than the depth of the groove it fits into, which doesn't make sense. There are other O-rings I'll replace as long as the unit is apart. These O-rings weren't leaking. They are on the case and the hose fittings. I'll send everything off to that seal company I spoke with.
Good work. I bought two double lip seals online from AVX Seals based on dirt haulers dimensions. 22x28x4, rubber covered double lip w/ garter spring. I didnt buy a dust seal yet. Service manual says leave dust seal off until you test for leaks.
Anyway I finally got SW off. I drilled 3/8 holes but had to use 5/16 bolts to have room for threading on the nuts. I didnt know if the threads or the nut edges would break first. Had to go with a 1/2 drive and a 5/8 socket to break SW loose. Dark now so Im quitting
Anyway I finally got SW off. I drilled 3/8 holes but had to use 5/16 bolts to have room for threading on the nuts. I didnt know if the threads or the nut edges would break first. Had to go with a 1/2 drive and a 5/8 socket to break SW loose. Dark now so Im quitting
Taking the plastic shroud off that holds the ignition switch helped me get to the back hose connection. I think Ill cut the ty-rap holding the hoses together so that i can pull them back out of the way one at a time. I left the 4 bolts holding PSU to bracket for last but may have to take them out and push PSU down to get access to center hose.
