5w40 Syn - even if warranty calls for 10w30??

[KennedyDiesel]

My analysis results took place over the course of two to three years and over 50k miles. I'm sorry I do not study the fancy monikers and symbols. I also have no desire to custom blend oils. Again No B.S. in BS from Amsoil U.

I discontinued anaylsis because the use of the truck shifted. I knew that I was doing well for it with lubrication BUT I also knew that no oil could hold as much soot as I was putting into it so my drain intervals became much more frequent. To me it just was not worth the expense. I felt that I was better served by over maintaining than observation. Pretty simple. The power level that the engine was being run at was far and beyond rated or even observed safe power. Most running at this power level blew up due to bent rods or other non lubrication related catastrophic failure.


FWIW I have an inclination to investigate reports of good service from Scaeffers oils as my local Mobil distributor sucks and I hate Walmart with a passion...

 

[RickO]

Hi All,

Planning our 50 hour service on the 1635. MF calls for 10w30, but I am not going to run dino past the 50 hour mark. Cannot locate 10w30 syn that is CJ4 compliant, since the tractor is Tier IV interim, I want an oil that meets or exceeds specs.

MY question, will running 5w40 syn harm the tractor? Even during the hot summer months?

Looking at Amsoil 5w40.

Not an oil expert but have done some reading and here is a good link for the avg. guy that would kind of help answer your ?.

Actually the 40 would be better in the summer than the 30 if you are keeping the oil changed as often as every 50hrs especially.

Motor Oil Myths and Facts

 

[sw03]

Not an oil expert but have done some reading and here is a good link for the avg. guy that would kind of help answer your ?.

Actually the 40 would be better in the summer than the 30 if you are keeping the oil changed as often as every 50hrs especially.

Motor Oil Myths and Facts

I agree a 5w-40 would / MIGHT protect better here. The link is 8 years old and I have had great #'s on 0w-20 vs 5w-30. But it that is me in TX heat along with northeast cold/heat.

 

[Hematite]

Not an oil expert but have done some reading and here is a good link for the avg. guy that would kind of help answer your ?.

Actually the 40 would be better in the summer than the 30 if you are keeping the oil changed as often as every 50hrs especially.

Motor Oil Myths and Facts

Actually the 40w oil would NOT be better according to your own link:

Thicker is Better Myth
The reason that oil viscosities have gotten thinner is because bearing clearances have become smaller. Using thicker oils will interfere with oil flow and the oil pressure will increase. In a worn engine it may be okay to increase the viscosity of the oil because the bearing clearances have become larger.

Thicker oils WILL interfere with oil flow. When oil flow drops, the bearings wear. When the bearings wear, the correct oil flow will resume. That's why it's a lot smarter to use the correct viscosity rather than presume a thicker oil will be better, unless you actually DO want to increase the bearing clearances of the engine.

The 4 ball wear scars for 10w-30 diesel oils that I've researched are LESS than that for the same brand 15W-40 diesel oils (this means LESS wear). Do your own research and find out why thicker does not mean better it just means thicker.

And no...oil is NOT a shock absorber as Kennedy Diesel thinks.

 

[RalphVa]

How do you non expert guys think that a 40w oil is better? Ever wondered how a 2 cycle engine doesn't wear out any faster than a 4 cycle? It uses that very light weight oil extensively dissolved in gasoline. Just goes in as a mist into the crankcase and then sucked up into the engine. There's plenty of protection there with that light weight mist oil.

In my mind, 0w30 if great for a diesel, and a 0w20 is great for a gas engine. These would get the oil to the valve train on startup where the most wear occurs. A taxicab fleet on Mobil 1 showed NO WEAR in upper valve train vs. a dino oil. A 0wxx oil is the ONLY oil that would not show (on camera through a transparent valve cover) extensive smoking on startup at -40 C/F in Imperial Oil tests.

Ralph

 

[Cami]

@Hematite: Amen!

Use the oil viscosity that your engine manufacturer specifies; they suggest certain viscosities for a reason. Put faith in your engine manufacturers' engineers.

@RalphVa: This discussion is about hydrodynamic lubrication; which isn't used in the small two strokes that you're referring to. Those engines are designed to operate reliably with that bit of oil mixed in with the fuel. By the way, there are two stroke diesels that use pressurized lubrication systems; Detroit Diesel was the big brand.

 

[bp fick]

@Hematite: Amen!

Use the oil viscosity that your engine manufacturer specifies; they suggest certain viscosities for a reason. Put faith in your engine manufacturers' engineers.

@RalphVa: This discussion is about hydrodynamic lubrication; which isn't used in the small two strokes that you're referring to. Those engines are designed to operate reliably with that bit of oil mixed in with the fuel. By the way, there are two stroke diesels that use pressurized lubrication systems; Detroit Diesel was the big brand.

@Cami: You might want to take a quick peek at RalphVa's profile.

 

[Cami]

Aha! I did read the profile just now. Working as a process engineer for an oil company would give many opportunities to pick a tribologist's brain.

 

[Rustywreck]

ok, may be a dumb question, but can i use the same oil in my tractor's diesel engine as i do my car or truck? i mean they do they have special diesel oi?
so far i've only used i bought from the dealer.

 

[MikePA]

Yes, there are oils designed for diesel powered vehicles.

Look for API classification of Cx where x is a letter. C = Compression (diesel oil). Sx is for gasoline (Spark) engines. Click Here for an explanation.

Whether or not you can use the diesel oil in your non-diesel vehicle is determined by the API rating of the oil and what the vehicle requirements are. If your car's oil does not include a Cx API rating, then you should not use it in a diesel powered vehicle or tractor.

 

[Rustywreck]

MikePA

thanks for that info

 

[Reg]

Ho Hum,,,,
The usual confusion between viscosity and film strength compounded with an insistence on ignoring the fact that it really doesn't matter.

Cheap generic department store oil is ADEQUATE, brand name is IRRELEVANT.
Most of these tractors will outlast their owners as long as ANY oil is kept in them, even if it is NEVER changed.
Too much dining on oil company ad copy, gotta exceed need by a_NOTHER factor of ten.

 

[RalphVa]

The main difference for diesels is the need to keep soot in suspension. Oils blended for diesel use do this. Otherwise, the soot (carbon) would come out of solution and start depositing all over the place. Our (Imperial) research guys had to solve this problem to develop oils for longer change intervals.

By the way, got some oil for our new VW TDI to add any, if needed. It's 5w30 Castrol SLX. When the warranty is out in 3 years, I plan to look for the Mobil 1 ESP stuff and maybe 0w30. Thinking I'll go to 0w20 in the 2 gas engines. My data on our old 240D showed its fuel mileage went up 1 mpg with the change to 0w30 from 5w40. Sold it 2 days before picking up the TDI.

Ralph

 

[WildHog76]

After reading all of these posts about AMSOIL, I've decided that I'm going to switch from AMSOIL 30W to a zero trans fat cooking oil for my Allis. Do you guys prefer Crisco or Wesson? Canola oil or Corn oil? Spray or spread?

 

[RWEST]

Cheap generic department store oil is ADEQUATE, brand name is IRRELEVANT. Most of these tractors will outlast their owners as long as ANY oil is kept in them, even if it is NEVER changed.

For all the debate about this oil vs that one (and I'm usually in the middle of it), I'm inclined to think the statement above pretty much sums it up!! I'd wager there are tractors running in Mongolia or Botswana that still have the original factory fill in there, from eons ago. Not too many WalMarts or Tractor Supply Co stores around those places...

 

[oldballs]

Reading these posts is truly informative. Moreover they are more entertaining than watching the Red-Green Show.

 

[kwswan]

they are more entertaining than watching the Red-Green Show.[/QUOTE]

some of these people get a little too carried away. use whatever brand or weight oil that makes you happy.i don't see the need to get into an online pissing contest about it.just step back from the keyboard,close your eyes,take a deep breath & count to ten, it will all work out in the long run.

 

[Hematite]

Maybe we should all have a group hug too, what do you think?

 

[Reg]

If they (old folk) had used STP and magic mumbo jumbo oils, would they still be running around in '73 Torinos ? or Mercury Comets ?
Who would WANT to ?

OK, so your tractor will outlive your grandchildren by 20 years more than mine will outlive my grandchildren.
For ONLY about another $40 per oil change, clearly a good deal (Not), IF it were end of engine life that kills tractors - which is very doubtful.

 

[RalphVa]

In connection with this discussion, a guy on the VW TDIclub forum has posted some used oil analyses. Seems a 0w30 shows less metal in the oil than either a 5w30 or a 5w40 oil. This is likely because the 0w30 is put into circulation protecting the valve train quicker than the other oils. Most wear occurs at startup.

There wasn't much difference between a 0w30 and 5w30 but the 5w40 oil showed a significant rise in metals in the oil.

Ralph