5w40 Syn - even if warranty calls for 10w30??

[KennedyDiesel]

A long time ago GM used to warn specifically AGAINST the use of wide viscosity range oils in diesel engines.
Something about viscosity range extender "residue" accumulating under bottom rings and leading to ring failure - as I said, long time ago so I'm not remembering the details at all clearly.

It might be worth a search though.

This was back in the primarily petroleum days where they were trying to swing 10w40 etc. Synthetics can handle this swing without the issues that used to be.

What will the heavier grade do in the Summer to give you peace of mind?

It was explained to me that a compression ignited engine (diesel) would be best served by a 40w oil to help in cushioning the shock loads of combustion. Also heat is often much higher in a diesel engine oil.

I thought you needed a CJ-4 oil? Amsoil ACD is CI-4+ and could be considered a thinner version of AME 15W-40. I don't know why they are trying to talk you out of running the oil you want to run. Amsoils new CJ-4 oils are quality products and I would use the 5W-40 in an instant if I needed a CJ-4 oil. I run ACD in a mix of cars and equipment, from generators and mowers to my daily driver. All gassers by the way. I have AME 15W-40 in my Kioti and would not have it any other way. The Kioti only spec's CC or CD oil so CI-4+ oil is a no brainer. I started the tractor this morning with no effort at all even though it was 29F. Not nearly as cold as you will see but for us thats pretty cold. If I do decide to use a 30wt it will be ACD, buy why when AME is working so well.

What does the owners manual call for? I may have missed that, but I know you wanted a CJ-4 oil so I was wondering if that was the spec in the owners.

One thing to note about Amsoil is they do NOT test for certification to the various API ratings. They will use terms like: "Recommended for API CJ-4" but do not wear the seal of approval. They make a fine oil and this does not make them a bad company, but it is a bit shady.


I run Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 synthetic aka: Mobil Turbo Diesel Truck. I use this in my Dmax turbo diesel trucks as well as my turbo diesel 3720 Deere. Second choice would be Delvac 1300 15w40 which is what I use for break in etc.



I also use Delvac 1 in:

Deere 455 garden tractor
Polaris Ranger 700XP
Honda Rincon
Honda EU6500is generator
Honda EU2000i generator (from day one)
Ryobi 4 stroke string trimmer

None of these call for a 5w40, but the oil far exceeds the requirements and has served me well.

I have run the Amsoil 5w30 synthetic in my truck under heavy use and the analysis was NOT good.

 

[SunnyJim]

Makes me wonder if there is a filter, perhaps with a time release additive, that would augment the reduced acid control of CJ-4 back up to CI-4+ levels. Do you know of anything?
Im sorry I didnt know about this cuz I recently "wasted" several gallons of Rotella 5w40 syn in a 2006 Cummins when I could have used CJ and saved the CI for the tractors.
larry

That's an interesting idea. Only problem I see is no 2 oils are formulated exactly the same. Oil #1 is using very low calcium but adding magnesium at or near an equal level. Oil #2 is simply reducing the calcuim to the required level to meet the sulphated ash limit. How would you be able to offer a filter that would raise the additive levels and not clash with the chemistry that has been formulated originally. It is simply better to use an oil formulated to the specification you wish to use.

Amsoil for instance offers 5 oils that meet CI-4+ specs. They are not the only ones and there has been some discussion about Rotella and Delvac possibly continuing to offer a CI-4+ oil and not just CJ-4. There are CI-4 options still on the shelves you just need to find them. Amalie has a CI-4 oil but Wolf's Head has gone CJ-4. John Deere plus 50 0W-40 is CH-4/SL rated and has high levels of Calcuim, Zinc and Phosphorous. JD just came out with plus 50 II CJ-4 so there should be allot of the old CI-4 15W-40 on dealer shelves. I know my local JD dealer has oil that is 3 years old and priced to match, not a bad deal.

http://www.amalie.com/

Oil and Lubricants : Plus-50, 0W-40

John Deere Introduces Plus-50 II Premium Engine Oil

 

[SunnyJim]

I have to correct myself, Delvac still offers CI-4+ oils. Just check the label on the back to confirm before you buy.

Mobil Delvac MX 15W-40

Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40

 

[sw03]

This was back in the primarily petroleum days where they were trying to swing 10w40 etc. Synthetics can handle this swing without the issues that used to be.






It was explained to me that a compression ignited engine (diesel) would be best served by a 40w oil to help in cushioning the shock loads of combustion. Also heat is often much higher in a diesel engine oil.




One thing to note about Amsoil is they do NOT test for certification to the various API ratings. They will use terms like: "Recommended for API CJ-4" but do not wear the seal of approval. They make a fine oil and this does not make them a bad company, but it is a bit shady.


I run Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 synthetic aka: Mobil Turbo Diesel Truck. I use this in my Dmax turbo diesel trucks as well as my turbo diesel 3720 Deere. Second choice would be Delvac 1300 15w40 which is what I use for break in etc.



I also use Delvac 1 in:

Deere 455 garden tractor
Polaris Ranger 700XP
Honda Rincon
Honda EU6500is generator
Honda EU2000i generator (from day one)
Ryobi 4 stroke string trimmer

None of these call for a 5w40, but the oil far exceeds the requirements and has served me well.

I have run the Amsoil 5w30 synthetic in my truck under heavy use and the analysis was NOT good.

Point taken but you could use your API approved basic cheap oil and Amsoil and the UOA will show the diff.

I WAS a dealer years ago and still use there stuff. I will take there engine oils over 99& out there. Why their CS is great along with tech service. I used to use mobil (why I left Amsoil) and Mobil service is poor beyond well, you know.

Also I would not state (1) UOA came back "not good" unless you have done the proper baseline on the oil along with other issues the truck might have. Then again I had used there ASL 5w-30 and it sucked..Switched to their 0w-20 and WAYYYY better. But I am sure you know they change the forumla, on avg every 16 to 18 months; hence why they do not get API approved on therr grp 4/5 oils.

Ps. There Saber oil is a killer in grass trimmer, backpack leaf blowers etc...

 

[WilliamBos]

Point taken but you could use your API approved basic cheap oil and Amsoil and the UOA will show the diff.

I WAS a dealer years ago and still use there stuff. I will take there engine oils over 99& out there. Why their CS is great along with tech service. I used to use mobil (why I left Amsoil) and Mobil service is poor beyond well, you know.

Also I would not state (1) UOA came back "not good" unless you have done the proper baseline on the oil along with other issues the truck might have. Then again I had used there ASL 5w-30 and it sucked..Switched to their 0w-20 and WAYYYY better. But I am sure you know they change the forumla, on avg every 16 to 18 months; hence why they do not get API approved on therr grp 4/5 oils.

Ps. There Saber oil is a killer in grass trimmer, backpack leaf blowers etc...

Killer, as in awesome? I tried Lucas syn 2 stroke a few years back, and it was worthless.

 

[Jimmy Joe]

How important is break in oil, seems like new cars are coming out more and more with synthetic from the factory?

 

[sw03]

Killer, as in awesome? I tried Lucas syn 2 stroke a few years back, and it was worthless.

yea, smokeless, burns nice and for a cheap $500 Shindaiwa leafblowers, or $300 gas headge trimmers etc..

If they sold it by the gallon, I would use it!

 

[sw03]

How important is break in oil, seems like new cars are coming out more and more with synthetic from the factory?

Important is your call...I call it BLANK and use whatever I want (break-in oil wise)..
I have used synthetic oil (grp 4/5) for the last 15 years on all cars (off the line too)

 

[KennedyDiesel]

Point taken but you could use your API approved basic cheap oil and Amsoil and the UOA will show the diff.

I WAS a dealer years ago and still use there stuff. I will take there engine oils over 99& out there. Why their CS is great along with tech service. I used to use mobil (why I left Amsoil) and Mobil service is poor beyond well, you know.

Also I would not state (1) UOA came back "not good" unless you have done the proper baseline on the oil along with other issues the truck might have. Then again I had used there ASL 5w-30 and it sucked..Switched to their 0w-20 and WAYYYY better. But I am sure you know they change the forumla, on avg every 16 to 18 months; hence why they do not get API approved on therr grp 4/5 oils.

Ps. There Saber oil is a killer in grass trimmer, backpack leaf blowers etc...

I have a complete history of OUA with the vehicle in question. I have no desire to put a 30w back in my truck(s) knowing what they can be subjected to. I also heard from another party that this oil did not fare well in the old 6.5.

I'm a current Amsoil dealer and get my monthly commission checks, but run Mobil engine oils in my own stuff. Maybe some day I'll switch, but I wanted a 5w40 and Amsoil did not have it. Analysis with the Mobil told me I was doing well so I stuck with it.



Break in oils are not important as far as I am concerned. Polaris uses synth from day one as does the Vette, and I believe several Euro cars as well. The only reason I would not use synthetic for break in is cost. Break in oil changes are early and often on my equipment and it's just not financially practical.

I use Klotz in my 2 strokes. Saws, Lawn Boy, etc. Love the smell plus I have a bunch left over from my snowmobiling days.

 

[sw03]

I have a complete history of OUA with the vehicle in question. I have no desire to put a 30w back in my truck(s) knowing what they can be subjected to. I also heard from another party that this oil did not fare well in the old 6.5.

I'm a current Amsoil dealer and get my monthly commission checks, but run Mobil engine oils in my own stuff. Maybe some day I'll switch, but I wanted a 5w40 and Amsoil did not have it. Analysis with the Mobil told me I was doing well so I stuck with it.

Break in oils are not important as far as I am concerned. Polaris uses synth from day one as does the Vette, and I believe several Euro cars as well. The only reason I would not use synthetic for break in is cost. Break in oil changes are early and often on my equipment and it's just not financially practical.

I use Klotz in my 2 strokes. Saws, Lawn Boy, etc. Love the smell plus I have a bunch left over from my snowmobiling days.

Just saying I have used there 5w-30 and it was poor. Switched and way better. What UOA house did you use? Do not tell me blackstone or OAI. Also you ran ASL in your truck? What is poor in UOA too?

Also since you are a dealer and run mobil, very odd, why not make your own 5w-40? People do this all the time. In my area I would never run a 15w-40 no matter what, did in the past and high wears on UOA.