Scott65
Silver Member
Yep, already forgot 2 things at least:
1) If you do an egr delete on this year model, you will get a check engine light. You can either live with the light, or get a programmer that still supports the egr delete function. My personal favorite, check out an SCT, part number 3015. Check with them, make sure they haven't changed something and it no longer supports it. The EPA has gotten really weird lately because of all the DPF delete stuff thats going on.
2) I should specify, in case your mechanic doesn't know. When the stand pipes are replaced in the high pressure rails, there are dummy plugs in the opposite ends from the stand pipes. These have the same orings, prone to the same failures. Replace them too! Other than that, don't pull any other fittings off of these rails, parts aren't available easily. And the reason for using ford parts, their engineers figured out why they were failing from all the years of unhappy customers, they figured out how to fix them. The aftermarket has just now come out with replacements, I'm unsure of how long they've been able to test the longetivity of their product. Do you want to find out for them?
Oh, and there is another reason for reflashing an older calibrated pcm, but you would have to have a much older calibration. Ford changed the "warm up method" for the injectors to try to fix stiction issues. When the oil cools and thickens in the injectors, it causes a cold start misfire. The injector buzz you hear when you turn the key on (or off on earlier calibrations) is to try to eliminate the stiction. Later calibrations changed when they buzzed, and the frequency and duration at which they buzzed, to better preheat the injectors and push the cold oil out of the tops of them
And you asked about the pump. Its rare to find a bad pump. If I have a pump problem, its almost always the ball bearing in the side of the pump where the low pressure feeds into it has blown out of the side. I don't replace the pump, I tap the hole and install a pipe plug. The pump is very expensive to just throw one in there. If your mechanic is skilled enough and you want to avoid a future problem, ask him to carefully drill the hole very slightly larger to get the ball bearing out, then tap it and plug it, problem solved. He has to pull the pump anyway to install the STC fitting
1) If you do an egr delete on this year model, you will get a check engine light. You can either live with the light, or get a programmer that still supports the egr delete function. My personal favorite, check out an SCT, part number 3015. Check with them, make sure they haven't changed something and it no longer supports it. The EPA has gotten really weird lately because of all the DPF delete stuff thats going on.
2) I should specify, in case your mechanic doesn't know. When the stand pipes are replaced in the high pressure rails, there are dummy plugs in the opposite ends from the stand pipes. These have the same orings, prone to the same failures. Replace them too! Other than that, don't pull any other fittings off of these rails, parts aren't available easily. And the reason for using ford parts, their engineers figured out why they were failing from all the years of unhappy customers, they figured out how to fix them. The aftermarket has just now come out with replacements, I'm unsure of how long they've been able to test the longetivity of their product. Do you want to find out for them?
Oh, and there is another reason for reflashing an older calibrated pcm, but you would have to have a much older calibration. Ford changed the "warm up method" for the injectors to try to fix stiction issues. When the oil cools and thickens in the injectors, it causes a cold start misfire. The injector buzz you hear when you turn the key on (or off on earlier calibrations) is to try to eliminate the stiction. Later calibrations changed when they buzzed, and the frequency and duration at which they buzzed, to better preheat the injectors and push the cold oil out of the tops of them
And you asked about the pump. Its rare to find a bad pump. If I have a pump problem, its almost always the ball bearing in the side of the pump where the low pressure feeds into it has blown out of the side. I don't replace the pump, I tap the hole and install a pipe plug. The pump is very expensive to just throw one in there. If your mechanic is skilled enough and you want to avoid a future problem, ask him to carefully drill the hole very slightly larger to get the ball bearing out, then tap it and plug it, problem solved. He has to pull the pump anyway to install the STC fitting
