6013 vs 7014 vs 7018

[MF RED in MT]

And the newer neighbor is getting tied of looking at it so he list on Free For The Taken........ My Miller211 is the same stile as your Miller140, just a hair more oomph and lot more $$, might be the next size up, they still make the 211 but different smaller version I assume it has the same out-put. Sounds like our duty cycle is about the same, comes with age....
Miller Millermatic 14 MIG Welder with Auto-Set for sale (97335) - Welding Supplies from IOC

Miller Millermatic 211 MIG Welder with Advanced Auto-Set for sale (97614) - Welding Supplies from IOC

I don't know if he'd give it away as he has plenty of room in his garage where mine is pretty full.

Yes that 140 AutoSet is exactly like mine, I purchased new in May 2010 for $649 and I think the Miller 180 AuotSet dual voltage was about $950 at that time.

My lifetime lease for a 80 cubic ft argon/co2 bottle was $200 full, and when I purchase another 80 cubic ft bottle of argon for tig welding it was $250 about 5 years ago,

Now I see your can purchase bottles empty from Amazon for about $160.

KC

 

[Oldpath05]

I bought my 125 75/25 bottle 2 years ago for a whopping $290.00, refils are $65.00 extra $20.00 delivered, at 35-40mi away I usually pay for the delivery.

 

[MF RED in MT]

I bought my 125 75/25 bottle 2 years ago for a whopping $290.00, refils are $65.00 extra $20.00 delivered, at 35-40mi away I usually pay for the delivery.
View attachment 675100

I have 3 gas/welding supply businesses about 65 miles away.

If I can remember correctly you would have to be careful about your bottle purchase because they would only exchange certain specific manufactured bottles?

KC

 

[Tractor Seabee]

You like the best dont you especially in the color red, wow that machine is 7k+. Impressive 500 amps, you have carbon arc gouger for the Idealarc? Here's a 35 year old Dialarc a 3rd cousin once removed, at best its 310 amp but on 240 volt its probably around 250 amps..........
View attachment 675002 View attachment 675003

Your not going to make me look that thread up are you, to much searching makes my head hurt.......

I have a Dial Arc. At max amps it really needs a 100A circuit hooked to 240V. 480 volts it is half that. On a 50Amp circuit I can get 180-200 Amps w/o tripping the breaker. They are a real power hog. The rectifier throws off a lot of heat energy. I will, up for sale soon as It is too much for what I do now. My little Monkey Ward 230 Amp AC/DC machine does everything I need running on a 50 Amp Circuit.

Back to the OPs original; I have not followed the full, thread. Was there ever much consensus? Like was said early on, it is an individual preference. I worked the pipe trade in my early life. The 7018 came about because ASME and AWS set up standard weld procedures which called out 7018 for the passes after the root which was always 6010. I did a lot of work where we used 6010 all they way. 6010 strength matches A36 pipe strength so some of us saw no reason to use 7018 unless specified. 7018 became popular with pipe welders that like down-hand welding which came from the pipeline part of the trade and it caught on for industrial work also. Down-hand welders swear it runs easier that any of the non-hydrogen coatings. I was always an up-hand guy so I saw no difference. There are upwards of 8-9 low-hy rods. Some have special applications. Lincolns Arc Welding Manual has a good dialog on lo-hy. We never used any 60k rods other than 6010 except when a smooth cap was desired then used 6013 or 6014. Fleetweld 5P (6010) was the go to product.

Ron

 

[bindian]

T6 is stronger (tapping on welding table produces a higher pitch sound) but only 6061 can be formed...

KC

That isn't quite right. Given a large enough radius, 7076-T6 can be bent 90 degrees. I used to work on helicopter structures and we had to make new instrument panels for Single Pilot IRF on Sikorsky S-76s. The panel's frame was made for .063" 7075-T6. When we had to bend in two different flanges, 90 degrees apart, we would lay out the part so the grain bent at 45 degree angles. It worked, with finesse, but we also scrapped out a lot of cracked frame members.

On DC-9 fuselage frame repairs, we would form 6061-0 over two curved wooden blocks. We would make extras as the heat treating process sometimes distorted the part too much to use. Ahhh, the good old days.
hugs, Brandi

 

[MF RED in MT]

That isn't quite right. Given a large enough radius, 7076-T6 can be bent 90 degrees. I used to work on helicopter structures and we had to make new instrument panels for Single Pilot IRF on Sikorsky S-76s. The panel's frame was made for .063" 7075-T6. When we had to bend in two different flanges, 90 degrees apart, we would lay out the part so the grain bent at 45 degree angles. It worked, with finesse, but we also scrapped out a lot of cracked frame members.

On DC-9 fuselage frame repairs, we would form 6061-0 over two curved wooden blocks. We would make extras as the heat treating process sometimes distorted the part too much to use. Ahhh, the good old days.
hugs, Brandi

Wow, that seems pretty low tech for a couple of birds that can fall out of the sky, but I believe you.

We however, had zero percent success in forming 7075/T6 Aluminum cold and in it's normal state.

And it was not worth the labor cost to try to annealed the material then heat treat it again after forming.

Yes, and forming materials "over two curved wooden blocks" brings back memory's of some weird forming dies for our presses made from varies materials other then steel...

KC

 

[GeneV]

I have a Dial Arc. At max amps it really needs a 100A circuit hooked to 240V. 480 volts it is half that. On a 50Amp circuit I can get 180-200 Amps w/o tripping the breaker. They are a real power hog. The rectifier throws off a lot of heat energy. I will, up for sale soon as It is too much for what I do now. My little Monkey Ward 230 Amp AC/DC machine does everything I need running on a 50 Amp Circuit.

Back to the OPs original; I have not followed the full, thread. Was there ever much consensus? Like was said early on, it is an individual preference. I worked the pipe trade in my early life. The 7018 came about because ASME and AWS set up standard weld procedures which called out 7018 for the passes after the root which was always 6010. I did a lot of work where we used 6010 all they way. 6010 strength matches A36 pipe strength so some of us saw no reason to use 7018 unless specified. 7018 became popular with pipe welders that like down-hand welding which came from the pipeline part of the trade and it caught on for industrial work also. Down-hand welders swear it runs easier that any of the non-hydrogen coatings. I was always an up-hand guy so I saw no difference. There are upwards of 8-9 low-hy rods. Some have special applications. Lincolns Arc Welding Manual has a good dialog on lo-hy. We never used any 60k rods other than 6010 except when a smooth cap was desired then used 6013 or 6014. Fleetweld 5P (6010) was the go to product.

Ron

Thanks man, I guess that backs up my thought that 6010/11 for sure + 6013 or 7014 or 7018, take my pick.

 

[MF RED in MT]

Hey Gene,

How's your welding exhaust system working, did you have to adjust anything?

KC

 

[nybirdman]

Mig has it's place;bench work and clean with no wind.Yes I know there is flux core.I worked construction ,mostly our doors and elevated;not the place for mig.
You want to try something difficult ,try Aluminum stick.Tig aluminum isn't too bad,mig can be tough also.

 

[GeneV]

Hey Gene,

How's your welding exhaust system working, did you have to adjust anything?

KC

KC, it worked real good! Only when I was welding close to the floor was when my shop got a bit smoky. I was just too far away from the vent hood at that point. I'm thinking to switch the semi-rigid duct to a flexible duct, which would allow me to easily adjust the height at which the vent hood hangs. Also, when not using it, I would be able to just hang the hood up on a hook on the ceiling w/o having to unbolt anything. Right now, I got to remove the entire semi-rigid duct when not using it, and I damage it a little every time I do it.

I filmed some vids of me welding that snowplow under the extractor, but I'm too busy now with work (finally...this 'rona stuff wrecked work for a while) to put them together and edit them so it can be something interesting to watch.