Mowing 7 Foot Mowing Deck

[Ryang]

I'm getting ready to purchase a TC45DA with FEL and wanted to know if I could hook up a 7 ft mowing deck to the tractor or would it be to heavy? I'm looking at a medium duty.

Thanks
Ryan

 

[PineRidge]

Ryan a 7' deck would do just fine with your NH.

 

[LeadPoison]

I would double check your manual's max weight for a cutter.

My 54 HP (M4900) only is rated to 1200 pounds for a cutter. I run a 6 foot Woods BB720 (6 footer) and it weighs 1140. It is a medium duty cutter. A 7 foot cutter really extends the weight far behind the tractor. Make sure you have lots of weight upfront or a loader.

 

[Soundguy]

Wow that's light...( load limit).. My ex NH 1920 did 1800 24" rear of the balls.. 33 hp tractor.. Keep in mind that the tractor will only feel all the weight when the mower is lifted...

Soundguy

 

[FamilyFarm]

Rotary cutter rating and 3 pt rating two different things.

 

[Soundguy]

Rotary cutter rating and 3 pt rating two different things.

Are you refering to weight or HP?

His 39 pto hp machine should be able to deliver over 5hp per foot to the mower. By most rules of thumb.. that should be adequate+.

I would also hope that lift wise.. that the mower should be well within the weight on the 3pt.

If you are refering to some other variable, please clarify your answer.

The CUT NH tractor I traded was rated for a 6' mower.. and was a 33hp machine.. of which about 30 was pto. I can't help but think a tractor with 12 more eng hp and 10 more pto hp should be more than adequate for a 7' 3pt mower.


Soundguy

 

[FamilyFarm]

I can only speak regarding Kubota as that is all I have owned. In the manual for each tractor, there is a stated maximum for each implement, both width and weight. I'm not saying the tractor might not handle more than that, but that is their "safe" rating. For instance, my L5030, which is 43 pto hp, tractor weighs 4100 lbs (no implements), it is rated for 84"/1058 lbs. rotary cutter. The L3130/L3430 models are rated for 72"/770 lbs. The L3830L4330/L4630 models are rated for 72"/926 lbs. Obviously the 3 pt system on any of these tractors will pickup more weight than that.
Terry

 

[Soundguy]

Cool.. and since he has a nh and not a kubota.. I can see we still need to see his tractors recomended specs.

Soundguy

 

[firemanpat2910]

One thing to think about is if you plan on trailering this set up. My Ford will run a 72" bush hog all day with no problems. Lifting high enough to clear the ground with the tail wheel when ever I want but when putting it on the trailer it likes to do wheelies.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Many variables must be considered. Power-wise, you PROBABLY have enough tractor for MOST mowing conditions. But that wasn't the question. Your concern is weight. Then there's design (brand) of mowers to consider. A 7' mower is an anomily. The difference between 5' and 6' is insignificant compared to the difference between 6' and 7'. I've owned in the last few years, a 6' Woods mower, a 7' Woods mower, a 6' Bush Hog mower, an 8' (twin spindle) Bush Hog mower and a 10' Bush Hog cutter (also twin spindle). The 8' and 10' mowers FELT lighter than the 7'er. That has to do with how far back the weight extends. The 10' Bush Hog was almost 600 lbs heavier, but the same tractor handled it MUCH better. (reason why I don't still have it? It was worn out and J.U.N.K. when I bought it used) When shopping for the new 7'er, I noticed some brands hitch points were different. Woods gives you more clearance between the leading edge of the mower deck and the tractors tires. ( I was told that's for clearance for their front chain guards) The end result is the mower extends back ANOTHER few inches over one that's closer coupled. In the Woods line, I've also noticed that there's a marked difference in weight of the tail wheel supporting structure. The 7' model (even with single tail wheel) is heavier than their 6' model. That few pounds makes a difference too. My 7'er has dual tailwheels, adding a few MORE pounds to an already tail-heavy mower.

Consider what sort of mowing you're doing. Extreme rough ground, hilly ground, or small areas where you'll be lifting the mower off the ground quite a bit might dictate how much weight is safe and how much is too much. When the mower is in the "down" position, it doesn't make that much difference. It's when you have it lifted, with tailwheel off the ground, that things get dicey. (Relatively) Flat ground is an advantage when packing around a big heavy cutter.

Another thing to consider. Do you trailer your tractor/mower? I stay with 6 and 7 foot cutters for transport width issues. I trailer mine to take care of several properties belonging to our family. (Lucky me...! Given responsibility of caring for property in a family trust) When loading the 7' mower (on a well weighted tractor I might add) it has a tendency to make the front wheels reach for the sky when topping the trailer ramps. Not exactly a re-assuring feeling sometimes. (Especially when the trailer is on a slightly out-of-level spot)

I'm just about to the point of discontinuing use of the 7' mower, in favor of the 6'ers exclusively. The 1' difference doesn't amount to that much time. Other option is buying a 10' pull-type, and leaving it at the site where I need to mow.

 

[Soundguy]

One thing to think about is if you plan on trailering this set up. My Ford will run a 72" bush hog all day with no problems. Lifting high enough to clear the ground with the tail wheel when ever I want but when putting it on the trailer it likes to do wheelies.

That's a great consideration.. hadn't thought much about trailer issues. A 7' mower might be a tight squeeze on a standard trailer... and if it makes the front too light.. then that alone would be enough of a safety issue to make me rethink 6'.. this stuff's dangerous enough with adding too much more on.

After re-reading.. given front weight and towing.. , etc.. a 6' mower just might be best... or perhaps an 80" job.. a few manufacturers make those.. but watch out.. some are belt driven combo in-between units.

Look at a good medium duty 6'er might just be the safest too.

Soundguy

 

[Ryang]

Thanks for everyone's responce. I now have a lot of thinking to do. I have a 20 foot trailer rated for 14000lbs, but it is only 83inches between wheel well. I like the thought about the 10ft pull behind, but I would have to make 2 drops for each big job. Once again thanks.

Ryan

 

[FarmGeek]

My Kubota M4900 drags an International brand 74" cutter around the farm waaaaay too often. Overall width is 7 feet and fits on my trailer with only inches to spare each side.

Like FWJunk said, front ballast is important. I’ve already got 600 pounds on the front end and can still paw air if hogging uphill and hitting a bump. Just added the last 200# this summer and it made a huge difference over the 400# I ran last year. More stable and a better ride over bumpy ground.

If you run a FEL that really helps a lot. Plus you can use the bucket to wake up the yellow jackets so they’re ready to greet ya when your seat gets to the hive

 

[FamilyFarm]

Cool.. and since he has a nh and not a kubota.. I can see we still need to see his tractors recomended specs.

Soundguy

I was just answering your question from my previous post, not trying to imply that I know the rating for his tractor! I suspect there wouldn't be much difference in each manufacturer's ratings for similar tractors. Maybe he has a manual that gives a rating for his specific tractor.

 

[Soundguy]

You'd be ver surprised at the drastically different lift specs between different tractors. Many.. like some small JD's.. have surprisingly low lift specs.. compaired to other similar sized units.

Soundguy

 

[Paul2000]

I just went through that process with my TC45DA. I considered many factors and I really wanted the 7 ft mower at first. I didn’t mind spending money on a quality product as long as I was getting my moneys worth. My deciding factor was I needed to be able to trailer the tractor with mower and FEL + forks. I have a 20-foot trailer and it is 7ft 2in wide. No matter where I go, or what I’m doing I always seem to need to FEL and forks so I needed to be able to put them on. The forks only take up about 6 inches because I load them first on the front and spin them around where the forks face the back and but up against the front rail. I then lay the FEL on top of them for securing them. I tried a few configurations to fit these things on and I found that without the forks on, I could probably get the woods 7 ft premium discharge mower on with about 1 inch to spare on the back if I roll my bucket down toward the floor I gained about a foot. Another factor is my 2 ramps on the back fold up, so it can’t hang off the back at all. The Woods premium mowers have the wheels on the outer edges so it would have been tight with the ramps. What I finally did after measuring was load the thing up in it’s best configuration and take it to the dealer. If it would fit ok I would buy the 7ft mower. If not, I would opt to downsize to the 6-foot heritage one and save several hundred dollars. When I arrived at the dealer I noticed the tongue was way overloaded. I’m ashamed I didn’t notice it before I left because it is a major safety violation. By rolling the tractor up the extra distance it really changed my trailer balance. I know the mower would counter balance the trailer some but I didn’t know if it would balance it enough. I also noticed the heritage model has the wheels in the center, which would fit between my ramps when towing. I plan on adding a quick hitch in the future, which will extend the length a little more. All factors considered I went with the 6-foot heritage. Got it home, mowed with it once and I am completely satisfied. I’m relieved too because I like many here like to get a value and research the product for a while. Once it is purchased I don’t have to dig for information any longer, it is over.

In short (I know too late) you can probably get the mower on your trailer with the bucket only with a small amount of space to spare. I believe your tractor has the HP to push the 7 ft deck. I would do exactly what I did if you really plan to buy the mower, take your tractor with you and size it there at the dealer to make sure everything will fit.

It was also a blessing because the mower they sold me had a defective pto shaft. They were going to set the crate on my trailer and send me on my way when I realized my tractor / forklift was up front and I could not get the mower off. I drove the tractor in the back and they mounted it and found the shaft would not go on. They had another shaft right there and it went on fine. That would have been disappointing to get home and fight with it before ever cutting the first blade of grass. Good luck. Paul

 

[Soundguy]

Good advice. other issues other than tractor weight an HP are coming in to factor here.

Soundguy

 

[Newblue]

I have a TC45DA and bought a Woods PRD8400 (7 foot finish mower) this spring. The cut is great and the tractor has no problem lifting the mower or transporting it. The only issue I have is the tractor has the super steer option and I have to watch the rear of the mower real close. The mower will swing WAY out on sharp turns

 

[Soundguy]

I think a finish mower will have less weight and lenght issues than a rought cut mower.. which is what ( I think ) is being discussed. ( Usually less HP requirements on a finish mower vs the same sized rotary cutter too. )

Soundguy

 

[Newblue]

I think a finish mower will have less weight and lenght issues than a rought cut mower.. which is what ( I think ) is being discussed. ( Usually less HP requirements on a finish mower vs the same sized rotary cutter too. )

Soundguy

If the poster is talking about a rotary cutter I believe a 7' rotary cutter (single spindal) will stick out about twice as far as a 7' finish mower. I'll be watching this closely so if the wife lets me get a rotary cutter, I will know what to purchase.