7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please:

   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please: #91  
If I owned the ol' gal, I'd definitely take another swing or two. I'm just plain stubborn that way.

That being said, the elderly gentleman that owns said piece of equipment has been very generous with his equipment and allowing my use of it. There is no way that I can in good conscience return it with the thought in the back of my mind that it's going to possibly break again. I really wouldn't sleep very good at night. I hope my $20 of steel from unknown origins doesn't have some internal flaw, I don't think the total bill of $52 includes Magna-Fluxing!! :laughing::D:laughing::D

Heck, why not do both? You are probably wise to get new parts made, but while you are waiting, re-fix it per the info you learned here and try it out. You'll get practice and learn more that way, for only a few bux in welding rod...
 
   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please:
  • Thread Starter
#92  
i bet that old mower shakes pretty good.. and even more now that the hitch pins aren't absorbing some of it.. :)

soundguy

Actually, I'm surprised for the mower's age, how smooth it does operate.

There is one caveat though. One of the blades got tweaked at some point in time. The additional twist sometimes causes the blade to get hung up on the center nut. When this happens, the blade can't swing back into its normal working position and it SHAKES horrifically. :eek: Usually finding some tougher scrub or super heavy grass growth will unlodge the blade and smooth running is back. :)
 
   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please: #93  
You can get replacement blades for most mowers at Tractor supply and they arent terribly expensive.
 
   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please: #94  
If you replace the blades, you may want to replace the shoulder bolts that hold them on also. Check them for diameter wear, the need to be loose enough so the blades can movem but not sloppy fit.
 
   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please: #95  
a damaged blade is something i sure would replace.

soundguy
 
   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please: #96  
Actually, I'm surprised for the mower's age, how smooth it does operate.

There is one caveat though. One of the blades got tweaked at some point in time. The additional twist sometimes causes the blade to get hung up on the center nut. When this happens, the blade can't swing back into its normal working position and it SHAKES horrifically. :eek: Usually finding some tougher scrub or super heavy grass growth will unlodge the blade and smooth running is back. :)

You may want to consider greasing the cr@p out of the pivot bolt(s) to keep it from binding.

My blades are taken off to sharpen so when everything is reassembled the bolts are gooped heavily. It also helps when removing the nuts for the next sharpening.

As far as the welding goes, I'd give a try at fixing the old before replacing with new. Disassemble it all to be able to weld in the ideal position and then scab on reinforcement that will not interfere with the operation of the lift pins. It looks to be fixable with a 100% weld and maybe a bit of extra support.

That severe vibration you mentioned may be part of the reason the support arms failed. Metal fatigue can happen fairly quickly.
 
   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please: #97  
greasing those pivots seems like it would attract grit to me.. and make grinding compound....

soundguy
 
   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please: #98  
Right you are Soundguy. They dont need any grease as mostly they are not moving when normally mowing and grease would just attract dirt and sand and make it bind up more.
 
   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please: #99  
greasing those pivots seems like it would attract grit to me.. and make grinding compound....

soundguy

Right you are. But the OP has one that is binding and maybe a little grinding is the ticket to keeping it loose.

As far as my procedure of heavy greasing goes - it is heavy enough to seal the pivots. When disassembling, the grease on the contact area looks close to new. But I do sharpen a couple of times a year so the grease gets changed out often.

That verifies what Gary Fowler mentioned as well - use none or make sure it doesn't get contaminated.

My thought was that sealed is better than open (as in disk bearings) and the bolts are sufficiently hard to resist much grinding. There is just something about metal-on-metal that rubs me the wrong way.:D
 
   / 7018 Vs. 7018AC, Need Layman's translation please:
  • Thread Starter
#100  
The blade doesn't hang up because of its mounting bolt. The blade has a slight twist that causes it to catch on the nut in the center of the mounting hub. It doesn't happen often.

I've inspected underneath and checked over everything. Blades look good, no chunks missing or high wear anywhere.

Picked up new arms this morning.

I'll post a pick of the ol' girl when she's 'feeling' better.
 

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