77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression

[thepumpguysc]

CONGRATS!!!!
350 is a GOOD #..
You REALLY NEED THE BOOK to tell you the "break-in" procedure..
DO NOT let it IDLE for more than 5-10 minutes.. keep it OFF IDLE.. adjust the idle screw for now.. so when it comes down, it doesn't go to idle.
To break it in, you run it at 1800 for an extended period..30-45-1hr.. OR go work the tractor..
Put a mower or disk on it & get to work.. I've seen people actually push a tree, for an hour..
Is there ANY labels or tags left on the engine or valve cover?? to tell you low & hi rpm..
Keep on eye on the temp & oil during this process.!!!!

You SHOULD ALWAYS MARK TDC when you find it.. either on the flywheel or front balancer..
I like to make a "timing pointer".. for future usage.. if the engine doesn't have one..
I take a short piece of coat hanger, & make a small loop in it & run say, a water pump bolt or timing cover bolt thru it w/ a washer & point it over the front hub.. near the belts..
Then mark the front hub for TDC..
"Way to go" on the final start-up.. & thanks for taking us along on your journey..
Happy Tractoring..

 

[thepumpguysc]

The compression matched because that problem is on an EXHAUST valve.. its not opening to let the compr. OUT.
Had it been on an INTAKE valve, it would have been a diff. story..
Air WAS ALLOWED IN.. for compression, but not OUT..
You can tell a lot by just the threads showing.. if the measurement is .014" on BOTH cylinders, the threads should be about the same on the adj. screws...

 

[HomesteadOC]

I ran it at a higher rpm for 20m or so then when it warmed up backed it down to idle and moved it all around the place. I wasnt able to work it just yet because I havent put the drive shaft back on. I did have it around mid throttle while I ran the hydraulics up and down for 15m or so. I was experimenting where throttle needed to be to operate the hydraulic pump and not bog down. When I found it I let it sit there while I washed up and ate dinner. I thought I had an alternator problem because my voltage got to 11.04v during running, but it turned out to be the ground lug wasnt tightened on the battery. After work today I finish putting it back together and start playing with it at a higher rpm for a while. I really wanted to get a pic of the front loader pushing up the front end, but it seems the cylinders are not up to the task. Perhaps a few rebuilds are in my future. The good news, is that theres no leaks.

Whats the proper torque for the valve cover? Did I mess anything up by not running it at 1800rpm for an extended period of time? Im guessing my compression numbers are going to jump up now that the valves are correct, hopefully.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Congratulations on the repair! You were scaring me when you were getting black smoke and no running after a re-ring. I wouldn't worry too much about the break-in procedure. I'm sure it makes some difference, but probably not between running or not. I've read running under load is better for a diesel, but then some engines say in the manual not to load it up during break in so I have evidence for both scenarios. You should see your compression come up slightly after running for a while and the rings seat in. I would guess close to 400 psig or maybe even more after 20-30 hours of runtime but maybe you can check and post your results because I'm not really sure. My experience has been valve covers and oil pans are difficult to get sealed. They should seal with just the bolts being snug. My G154 leaks at the oil pan. It is the original gasket and was stuck to the oil pan side with no tearing on the block side. I put silicone on the block side and am surprised it is leaking so it will have to come apart again and I'll probably use a different type of sealant, or maybe I didn't get good coverage. As I stated earlier, silicone is not the ideal sealant for typical fuels and oils but usually better than nothing.

 

[HomesteadOC]

Ill check more on the oil pan when I get home, I didnt focus on that after install so I might not have noticed leaks. Its much easier to torque them down before I get the drive shaft on anyway. Theres one bolt closest to the middle of the engine that I cant get torqued properly without removing the front axle so its just by feel with a box end. I need to install my hour meter, the T from the injectors to the tank, and I need to come up with a strap for the battery. The exhaust is only held on by the top nuts on the studs, the bottom has bolts that are too long to hold it, and I want to paint the bolt heads and some touch up on the block. Ive got my power washer in good working order, so thatll be done once I get all the leaks slowed down or stopped. I put in a flush product in the coolant system, there is a lot of rust in there. Im also working with the same oil filter, and I did a mix of half ATF and half rotella oil. Im going to run that for a while and drain all the fluids again and then change the oil filter, clean the transaxle screen and magnetic plugs and we should be in business. I also need some front ag tires to match the back and a few bolts here and there that Ive noticed were missing.

 

[HomesteadOC]

No leaks in the oil pan or the valve cover, but I got a few hydraulic leaks and the engine has a little knock to it. I think I did the valve adjustment wrong possibly. I adjusted cylinder #1 intake and exhaust valves at TDC for piston #1, and the same for piston #2. It starts easy off of 1 glowplug warming cycle when cold, but there seems to be more smoke that what I think there should. My friend was saying the valves might need to be adjusted differently than what I did, but Im not sure of the process and I still cant find my stupid manual. Could someone please, please, please post the valve adjustment procedure from their manual?

 

[Kernopelli]

I wouldn't get too worried that something is wrong just yet. I have only owned two 2 cylinder tractors but both were loud and had that trademark 2 cylinder clanging, knocking sound. To me, the 3 and 4 cylinder engines are much quieter and smoother. As far as procedure, I attached a (well used) scan of my I&T manual, hopefully it is legible. The "procedure" will basically be the same for your 2 cylinder but the clearances may be different.

 

[HomesteadOC]

Thanks, that helps, but I have a KE70 motor so Im still not 100% sure. I adjusted the valves in this way so that makes me feel better. Im just a little worried about the knocking sound I hear and the excess smoke. Maybe thats just the way these engines sound?
I did notice that the K3s are adjusted to 0.01” clearance, maybe if I tighten mine up to that it will run quieter? Anyone ever try that?

 

[thepumpguysc]

While its running [knocking] loosen a line AT the injector & retighten, 1 at a time..
IF the knocking goes away on THAT cylinder.. you can consentrate your efforts there..

 

[HomesteadOC]

While its running [knocking] loosen a line AT the injector & retighten, 1 at a time..
IF the knocking goes away on THAT cylinder.. you can consentrate your efforts there..

Thats a good tip. Did you watch the video and listen to the engine? Does it sound normal or is that a bad knock?