8N 6v Generator rebuild?

[Hammbone]

Does anyone know where I could find the necessary parts to rebuild a 2 brush 6v generator? All I have been able to find are the brushes and bearings. Are the field coils and armature still available anywhere, or am I wasting my time?

 

[Soundguy]

try a rebuilder.

since the genny are being repoped.. parts ARE available. expect it to be indian or turkey or china origin however.

 

[Hammbone]

try a rebuilder.
since the genny are being repoped.. parts ARE available. expect it to be indian or turkey or china origin however.

I have not found a local rebuilder yet but I have not looked to hard yet. As far as the overseas parts, have you had any positive experience with this route? I guess I should have also asked if it would be worth it to try to rebuild or if I would be just as well off buying a repop? I had considered going the 12v conversion route, but the tractor has no problems firing up first crank on 6v so I don't see much advantage there.

 

[Soundguy]

I have parts from all 3, they work, not as nice looking as old tech ford.

 

[Hammbone]

Alright, I finally found the parts I need to rebuild the generator at a local auto electric repair shop. They tested the armature and turned down the commutator, and ordered bearings and brushes (Korea and Taiwan) and also a set of field coils (Canadian, little surprised there). I have everything torn apart and cleaned up except the rear plate and bearing. Does anyone know a good method to remove this bearing without tearing the end plate up? There isn't a way to get to it form behind that I can tell and the FO4 manual doesn't really go into detail on it (actually states that it has a bushing instead of bearing). Is there a special tool for this?

 

[boggen]

bozo that i am. would be using an "awl" and a hammer. and work my around the outside some. to point i could get some needle noose pliers on the old bearing to twist and pull it out.

screw driver will leave marks, but *shrugs*, my issue has been if i can get the "center" of the bearing out... ya got the outside, then the rubber (black) then the center metal ring. if i can work out the center metal ring / rubber. the outside of the bearing comes out easier.

==========
slide hammer... get a concrete / mansory anchor (butterfly types) that ya push together, and then push through hole. and then once pushed far enough through 2 legs spring out. find one that is small enough to go through center. and some how do a "slide hammer" job on it. *shrugs*

 

[Soundguy]

find a rod to fit in the bore, fill with grease. hammer ont he rod. should hydraulically push the bushing out.

 

[Hammbone]

find a rod to fit in the bore, fill with grease. hammer ont he rod. should hydraulically push the bushing out.

That sounds like a potentially messy solution! I can see how it would work in theory, but I think finding the rod to fit may be a pita, unless you know of something in particular other than the armature shaft. I do like the slide hammer idea, I may have to rig up a setup like that. I'll let ya know what happnens, hopefully tomorrow evening.

 

[boggen]

That sounds like a potentially messy solution! I can see how it would work in theory, but I think finding the rod to fit may be a pita, unless you know of something in particular other than the armature shaft. I do like the slide hammer idea, I may have to rig up a setup like that. I'll let ya know what happnens, hopefully tomorrow evening.

never had stuff i need on hand, when i needed it. so have used awe / hammer. due to bore was to small for other stuff i have.
would be intresting to see what ya come up with, and if it works.

i know the stinking anchor bolts can hold up to a sledge hammer. (broke some concrete blocks) a few days ago, tearing out an old window. the flat heads on the bolts were rusted and no real way to get at them. so old sledge and pop the frame of the windows. the anchor bolts won though :/ thankfully no extreme major damage. just bigger holes, that needed bigger anchor nuts.

 

[Soundguy]

the armature should fit pretty close

if you have the slide hammer with a hook end with a lip that small it may work too.

hit it with plenty of penetrant first.

 

[Hammbone]

I realize the Armature would be the perfect match but I don't want to risk damaging it since that was the one part I could not find. I thought I was onto something this afternoon thinking about how drill bits are sized to the 64th of an inch so one of those should be pretty close to the right size, but unfortunately the bits I have are the three sided base type so that won't work. Found a screwdriver bit holder that was really close, but the grease still squished out of the hole. I've got it soaking in pb blaster right now, might try the bit holder again tomorrow morning after it soaks a while.

 

[2458n]

Take a wooden doll rod and chuck it in a drill and sand down what you need to. Soundguy will not tell you something he has not done or at least seen done. Go for it. The one wire 12 volt would be my choice, but mine has a 8 volt in it right now.

 

[Soundguy]

the dowel rod is a great idea.. can make it a tight fit too.

hyd pressure to remove bushings and such is a good tool if you can make it work. like on flywheel pilot bearing/bushings. e tc.

 

[Soundguy]

ps. things like armature shafts from non rebuildable generators are great for this. get one like that then you have one that fits plenty of stuff.
IE. I have dozens of fords.. so custom tooling is nice.

 

[Hammbone]

Well I finally got the bearing out, but it did not want to come easily. I turned down a chunk of scrap wood with my power drill and a strip of sand paper until it was the perfect size to fit in the bearing, but unfortunately the grease then squished out through the bearing itself before it even thought about coming out. Did not have anything to fashion a slide hammer so out came the dremel tool. I sliced through the bearing on two sides enough to weaken it without damaging the end plate. Then with a drift punch, hammer and pair of needle nose I gently coerced the bearing out in pieces. I got the gen. Put back together and on the tractor, polarized jumping the regulator terminals before starting it up, but I'm still not making power. I'm thinking regulator? Shouldn't I get power from the generator even with a bad regulator though?

 

[Soundguy]

On an 8n, jump bat to arm to polarize. Once that is done, to test, get engine to high idle, then check volts on battery, should be 7.2 or so. If not, jump bat to arm to bypass cutout, I still nothing, then jump field to ground, to bypass field circuit.. If either of those work, reg is bad.

 

[Hammbone]

I did not get any change in voltage when jumping either set of terminals separately. Should they both be jumped at the same time when jumping the field to ground?

 

[Soundguy]

I didn't say u jumper so yeah, bat to arm and field to ground, there should be a v change even if no charge as the field will load that bat even if armature open, so unless field and arm both open, re check your methodology, or meter.

 

[Hammbone]

On an 8n, jump bat to arm to polarize. Once that is done, to test, get engine to high idle, then check volts on battery, should be 7.2 or so. If not, jump bat to arm to bypass cutout, I still nothing, then jump field to ground, to bypass field circuit.. If either of those work, reg is bad.

I didn't say u jumper so yeah, bat to arm and field to ground, there should be a v change even if no charge as the field will load that bat even if armature open, so unless field and arm both open, re check your methodology, or meter.

Im a little confused with your reply here, maybe I worded it wrong... I was checking voltage across the battery + to -, starting voltage was just battery voltage of ~6.2 ish. The voltage did not increase at all during any of the tests (batt to arm then field to ground.) the meter is good, maybe I'm not using the correct method? I have a short wire with two alligator clips that I was using to go between each terminal, clip one end on first screw, then touch second screw with other end, watch meter for changes. If anything I saw a drop of a few tenths during one of the tests, don't remember which as this was a couple days ago. I'm not sure the genny is exactly right either, in my excitement to get the tractor back together, I forgot to do a motor test before I reinstalled it. Think I will start there this weekend.

 

[Soundguy]

if you are using only 1 jumper wire you are not doing the test as i instructed. you would need 2 wires.. and preferable do the field to ground at the genny.