Actually the rest of the cable and connectors look fine. Here is a pick I took lying on my back under the truck of the end of the cable that goes to the starter. In the pic of the connector at the battery, the big cable that goes to the left goes down to the starter. The cable from the right comes from the other battery. This is the left battery (looking at the truck from the front) that the terminal is bad on, although I don't guess it matters, just a point of reference.
94 Ford F250 battery cable
- Thread starter Alan L.
- Start date
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Actually the rest of the cable and connectors look fine. Here is a pick I took lying on my back under the truck of the end of the cable that goes to the starter. In the pic of the connector at the battery, the big cable that goes to the left goes down to the starter. The cable from the right comes from the other battery. This is the left battery (looking at the truck from the front) that the terminal is bad on, although I don't guess it matters, just a point of reference.
The technician in me says that the cable connection needs to be replaced. The redneck in me says you could save a lot of money and grief by putting a small C-clamp across the outside of the terminal and post and tighten it really good and tight.
Being of member of that club, I'm always interested in redneck solution.
Egon
Epic Contributor
If you have some lead take the cable off, put the battery part in a jiggered up tin can mold and pour some new lead around it. Drill out the holes out afterward.
kennyd
Advertiser
With that heat shrink and split loom around the cable, you cannot say that it looks good.
So, there is something wrong with that part of the cable too? Not sure if I see what you're talking about on the heat shrink and "split loom"? If there is something wrong there I guess the whole cable needs replacing.
I don't know who all is following my other thread on the battery drainage problem (alternator?), but this is of course all related. I have replaced the batteries just a few months ago and they already won't hold a charge. Right now they show 9 volts and the dome light won't even come on. I kind of wanted to get my cable situation under control then drive to Sam's and get the batteries replaced under warranty. Of course I can also just take them off and exchange them,which is what I did before. Meantime if I don't get the drainage problem corrected the batteries won't last, and if I show up with this shot cable they are liable to blame my battery problems on that, as it can't be properly tightened.
I work quite a few hours and so have not had much chance to actually DO any of the things that are being suggested here, this is why this whole deal is kinda dragging out. Just want to decide before I act, so I have what I need before I get started.
The solution is in this thread and you guys don't know how much I appreciate it. There is no better source of information for this sort of thing.
Shimon
Platinum Member
Once corrosion gets into the wire, it will work its way all the way through the cable. If one end of the cable has cracks in the insulation then the corrosion can work itself all the way to the other end even though the other end is sealed in heat shrink and split loom. Plus the wire in the original Ford battery cables is regular copper which is more susceptible to corrosion than tinned copper (which is used in marine applications). And those marine terminals provide good connections as long as the nut stays tight...replacing the wingnut with a nut and lockwasher usually works better.
kennyd
Advertiser
I am not saying there is-because I (or you) can't see the cable. Moisture can get into the wire where the end is crimped on and work it's way up the cable causing high resistance. Often the insulation will be swelled up near the end.
kennyd
Advertiser
Exactly.
ScottAR
Veteran Member
Borg Warner makes a replacement cable that's about $70.
It's not that hard to change. The only hiccup is you have to cut up
the factory connection at the fender solenoid. Just cut off the old
batt. side and install the new. Do however get the factory ground
cables. They are made with the body/frame grounds on em.
It's not that hard to change. The only hiccup is you have to cut up
the factory connection at the fender solenoid. Just cut off the old
batt. side and install the new. Do however get the factory ground
cables. They are made with the body/frame grounds on em.
