Adding electrical devices to tractor

[i7win7]

LittleBill, I started this thread, if you look at the photo in post 1 the bright red wires and the fuse block came from walmart. It was a wiring kit for an 1800 watt power amp, replaced 80a fuse with 60a. Speaker wires saved for future projects. Relay can also be in battery compartment. The fuse block in photo is factory block (B2650).

Everything I added is attached to ROPS. This is why I used a waterproof box (camping store or department) to mount a remote fuse block and switches. Easy access to fuses and minimizes wire runs to accessories.

Switches are 20A motor rated with o-ring moisture and dust resistant. Added rubber dust covers hopefully to increase reliability.

 

[WranglerX]

LittleBill, I started this thread, if you look at the photo in post 1 the bright red wires and the fuse block came from walmart. It was a wiring kit for an 1800 watt power amp, replaced 80a fuse with 60a. Speaker wires saved for future projects. Relay can also be in battery compartment. The fuse block in photo is factory block (B2650).

Everything I added is attached to ROPS. This is why I used a waterproof box (camping store or department) to mount a remote fuse block and switches. Easy access to fuses and minimizes wire runs to accessories.

Switches are 20A motor rated with o-ring moisture and dust resistant. Added rubber dust covers hopefully to increase reliability.
View attachment 682541

Is switch DC or AC rated? There is difference you know....

Dale

 

[i7win7]

20A at 120v, 10A at 240v running at 12v shouldn't be a problem

 

[LittleBill21]

20A at 120v, 10A at 240v running at 12v shouldn't be a problem

although you prolly won't have a issue, dc creates a bigger arc on connection or break, generally if a switch is dual rated, dc is usually half of the ac rating. you may experience a shorter service life with a ac only rated switch/relay

 

[senecak19]

Almost there guys. Theoretical has become actual as I知 near done with my install. Photos to come later. Unfortunately, I知 questioning one of my notions and I知 sure one of you can answer it.

I have two new Led lights going on the ROPS. The front puts out 126w the rear only 18w. The switch feeding them only requires one input +\-. That one input runs back to my fuse block where it痴 got a 15amp fuse. After doing the install, I知 realizing that little 18w LED could potentially catch fire before the fuse pops.

- Should I have run an independent wire for that light?
- the larger light calculates a max load of 10.5amps. Maybe run a 10amp fuse instead for the both of them?

 

[senecak19]

Here's photos of my install.
- You can't see the waterproof relay, but it's on the backside of the fuse box mount. The shiny 5/16 nut is holding it.
- I've since added a bit of heat shrink over the white to red "trigger wire" connection so it doesn't short itself out.
- I have yet to test the draw on the lights, but did in fact drop the fuse down to 10amp and so far it hasn't tripped. The wires are pretty small, especially the small square one facing the back. As I've learned from you fine folks, the 30 amp fuse it came with was installed between the battery and relay it came with. I'm betting I could drop it to a 7.5 amp and still be fine.
- I'm only using the positive terminal in the work light connection. Is this normal?
- The front LED bar was on the tractor prior without issue. The rear light was added and to my surprise, one flood light is MORE than enough for my taste. I'm not happy with the light mount on the ROPS and am already scheming a new one. Two bars would've been better, but the small square lights were new and free.
- The primary purpose of the fuse box was to accommodate a second light (rear) and a third function valve.

So far so good. If I had to do it again, I would've included a spare wire in the wire loom running front to back just to have in the event I ever wanted to add something to control an electric chute rotation or something. No big deal though, I'll just have to fish one in if need be. Looks like my fuse box is seeing roughly 20amps max. That would leave 20 to go per the relay. I don't know what the tractor alternator is rated for, but, even if I added a snow blower to the back, I would never be angling my plow and snow blowing at the same time, so I would think it's fine.

 

[PILOON]

20A at 120v, 10A at 240v running at 12v shouldn't be a problem

And as some do rate for DC, 10 amps DC is very common for most that I've used.

 

[LittleBill21]

Almost there guys. Theoretical has become actual as I知 near done with my install. Photos to come later. Unfortunately, I知 questioning one of my notions and I知 sure one of you can answer it.

I have two new Led lights going on the ROPS. The front puts out 126w the rear only 18w. The switch feeding them only requires one input +\-. That one input runs back to my fuse block where it痴 got a 15amp fuse. After doing the install, I知 realizing that little 18w LED could potentially catch fire before the fuse pops.

- Should I have run an independent wire for that light?
- the larger light calculates a max load of 10.5amps. Maybe run a 10amp fuse instead for the both of them?

fuses protect the wire, not the device, remember a lamp in a house is on a 15/20 amp circuit, it will never trip out the breaker if catches on fire for some reason

 

[senecak19]

Couple thoughts. I checked the original wiring harness and it appears it comes with 10amp fuses. That being the case I believe I’m okay. Maybe. I have two lights on the same circuit so I suppose the draw between the two of them may trip it if something ever goes astray.

The other thought I have is, all of the wiring inside the tractor is either 12 or 14ga. If a fire is going to ensue it’s going to be at the light itself which sits atop the ROPS and fingers crossed doesn’t cause much damage. As it is, I believe I’ve error’d on the safe side.

 

[i7win7]

If a fire is going to ensue it痴 going to be at the light itself which sits atop the ROPS and fingers crossed doesn稚 cause much damage. As it is, I believe I致e error壇 on the safe side.

Fires need oxygen, fuel and heat. If puling max amps on wire, additional heat sources (engine, exhaust, ect) can cause a wire to burn without blowing the fuse. when insulation is gone and wire shorts - then fuse will blow. If this removes enough heat fire may go out.

Since you are using factory wiring it shouldn't be an issue. Something to consider when adding your own electrical system.

LED's have resistors that limit current to individual led. The heatsink housing keeps led (an electronic part) cool. Waterproof housing also limits oxygen supply. Don't think one will ever burn - just have leds fail.

DOT truck regs. require lamp replacement if over 50% of led's don't work. A 9 light LED tail light is legal as long as 5 or more individual leds work.