Adding Power Beyond, 3-spool hydraulic valve, and T-n-T to a JD 2520

[mikedeere]

Jimgerkin, I do have the third SCV but I don`t think I can get it from there. Maybe I am wrong. Doe`s any body know? Thanks

 

[jimgerken]

bmw, I don't know, you'd have to dig into it. Find the installation instructions on the Power Beyond kit for your tractor, either on-line thru JD parts, or through your dealer if he is willing. This will give the hints to get you started. Sorry I cannot be more help.

 

[jimgerken]

New photos are here. These show the final (unless I change it again) routing of the TnT hoses. And the last pic is a bonus, showing the result of several hours of machining effort on some wheel weights I was given.

 

[Superduper]

Jimgerkin, I do have the third SCV but I don`t think I can get it from there. Maybe I am wrong. Doe`s any body know? Thanks

Mikedeere, with the 3rd SCV, the simplest solution is to install an electric diverter valve from the 3rd SCV outlets which will split it into A & B accessory ports. The original 3rd SCV lever will still operate your accessories. However, you select the port being controlled by activating an electrical remote mounted switch which I've even seen other users install as a pushbutton on the 3rd SCV lever. The valve which most folks seem to use is this one by surplus center: Surplus Center Item Detail

 

[mikedeere]

Thanks Superduper, I`ll look into doing that. :

 

[jrschremser]

Jimgerkin, What a fantastic job! Since I am hydraulically challenged I have been only wishing I could figure out how to do this my JD 4600 for a long time. Currently I have the powerbeyond lines installed. I believe I can run the 3 spool valve supply and return lines from it. But because of the location of the PB quick disconnect fittings I'm afraid there would be way too much clutter in the area and I would not be able to fold the ROPS completely down. I would like to supply the valve from elsewhere as you have. Hopefully this is possible. Do you know if there is a similar block to tap on my machine? THe dealer hasn't been able to answer this question. I read earlier in this thread where someone had inquired if the same could be done on a 4500 model. I believe our tractors are basically the same. I wish you where my neighbor.

 

[jimgerken]

jrschremser, if you have the power beyond option installed, the flow is in there! P.B. has two hoses, right? And they come up to a mounting plate and fittings on the rops base or fender, I assume. And there is a small loop hose that must always be installed in there to keep the flow going through, or the releif valve must open and eventually your system would overheat (This info came from the owners manual). Your new valve goes in that loop, in place of the small loop hose presently connecting the two hoses coming up from the hydraulics block area. You have it made, the hard part has been done for you. Choose an open center valve of at least 3000psi working and at least the gallons per minute (gpm) flow rating of your system. You will have to figure out which of the P.B. hoses is "supply" and which is "return". Mount the valve, add couplers and you are there. If any of these assumptions of your present setup sounds wrong, please post pics of what you have so we can understand and help more.

 

[Tim_in_IA]

I like the zip tie marking. Very clever. Also more practical than the electricians tape I was trying to use last week.

 

[jimgerken]

To follow up and answer a question I have been asked a few times now, and just often enough so I forget between times, here is an update. The hydraulic block on your tractor has two ports, as you've seen in my earlier photos. When the block is mounted on the tractor, with the setscrew in place inside the block, and you are ready to plumb out to your aux valve:

The hydraulic supply from the tractor comes out of the rear-most port on the hydraulic block. This should be routed to the port of your auxillary valve called "in".

The return to the tractor hydraulics is the front port on the block. So, the flow from your auxillary valve, out of its "out" or "return" port, gets routed to the front port on the hydraulic block.

Doing this puts your new auxillary valve in series with all the other tractor hydraulics.
Good luck, and watch those "o"rings !

 

[hanson1999]

jimgerken, I just recently ordered a 2520, am planning on adding valves like you did, copying your idea of making your own power beyond!! Should save me a ton( i think they get around $300 for the kit!! I am wondering what size hydraulic lines you ran from the block to the add-on valve, it looks like 3/8 in your pics but was just wondering if that was big enough, since it always has flow through it. i know the ports are #6 which is not real large just wondering your thoughts on this, since i haven't actually looked at my tractor yet!!

will post more on that later, and pics of the new valve installed as well!