Rear Blade Agonizing over rear blade decision

[mwb]

7':thumbsup:

I think you will find that reversing the blade will make it cut in too deep and be useless. Mine scrapes perfect going forward, leaving the blade in the forward position and pushing backwards works just fine on snow.

Mine is homemade, modeled after a Buhler. It is heavy duty.

 

[bp fick]

I'm also one of those who, like so many others, who had to allocate funds in many directions. My tractor? I wanted quality and was willing to pay to get it. On my rear finish mower, I went with a better implement.

But, because my rear blade is used merely to pull snow, or smooth sandy soil, I got a "standard" duty, TSC $300 blade. Frankly, for what I do with it? It's over kill in quality. :laughing:
No agonizing.

 

[Diamondpilot]

A lot depends on the tractor. I have a Ford 861 (45HP), and a Jinma 284 (28HP 4x4). I started off with a Howse 6' Rear Blade. Fine behind the 45 HP Ford but I broke it twice the first winter I had the Jinma. I then got a 7' HD Woods blade and am glad I did. It will not make the turn on the 3 point arms but will now that I added a Quick Hitch. The extra 4" gives it the clearance needed.

I would buy the strongest blade you can get. I had done dirt work with the 6' blade with no issues but frozen snow and a strong tractor can break and bend metal real quick.

By the way I am over your way today. I fly into the Chester County Airport at Coatsville at least 2 times a week. I was there on Monday also. Nice area.

Chris

 

[Dead Horse]

Since you have a FEL you may have little need to push backwards but if you want to clear your tracks with much of an angle on the blade you will want a foot+ wider than your rear tires. I am not sure clearing your tracks would be a huge issue unless you are clearing miles

NB: Generally, the blade on these things can be mounted on the TPH frame, offset from center.

I did that with mine to achieve the right rear tire overlap (for snow clean up) while at th same time being able to rotate the blade 180 degrees so I can use it to push.

I just pay a bit more attentiln to the physics involved with the unequal leaverage induced, but for snow work which is essentially all I use it for, it is fine.

 

[djradz]

Like most of Woods products, their standard duty blades seem to be a little more on the HD side than many of the other manufacturers noted. In fact, the 7 foot standard blade jumps up to 1/4" plate (versus the standard 5/16") otherwise used on theirs and many others.

You definitely want to purchase a blade that you can turn around for other purposes, but I think for snow (and especially if the ground is not completely frozen) you will probably NOT turn it around unless the snow is really packed hard and you need to really dig. You will find that going in reverse, with the blade reversed too, that it will really bite in and likely dig too much. If the ground isn't frozen, you'll be moving plenty of dirt too. In the paved portions of your drive, I'd worry about catching a crack or edge and really doing some damage.

 

[Dead Horse]

You will find that going in reverse, with the blade reversed too, that it will really bite in and likely dig too much. If the ground isn't frozen, you'll be moving plenty of dirt too. In the paved portions of your drive, I'd worry about catching a crack or edge and really doing some damage.

With the top link, blade on the ground or juuuuuuuust touching....... lay the blade angle back, towards the hitch and it won't be so inclined to dig in....

Same with pulling the blade forward, use the top link to optimize the pitch of the cutting edge for the conditions and circumstances.

You can do a lot more damage than just bending or breaking the implement.... on CUTs the lower links are not all that strong and especially on bitter cold days, "things" can happen.

 

[Jay4200]

Since you have a FEL you may have little need to push backwards but if you want to clear your tracks with much of an angle on the blade you will want a foot+ wider than your rear tires. I am not sure clearing your tracks would be a huge issue unless you are clearing miles

Clearing tracks is critical if you are going backwards. If you want to drive forward and drag your blade, then blade vs. tire width is unimportant.

If bulldozing in reverse w/o clearing tracks, you will ride up on the windrow, which tilts the blade, making subsequent windrows higher. Ultimately, you'll tip over. Not really, but what you WILL end up with is a driveway that is dished toward the center and bermed up on the edges, which is the opposite of what you want. Been there, done that.

JayC

 

[devildog1]

Here's my take on attachments, buy them once, keep them forever. I do not like to buy anything more then one time, so my thoughts are buy the heavy duty blade, Woods, Land Pride, and you should not have to buy another.
DevilDog

 

[sms0000]

I purchased a 72" Buhler/Farm King 30 Series (light duty) for the sole purpose of snow clearing. I finally got a chance to use this past week. I was driving forward with the blade angled and cleared about a km or road in no time with 2 passes. I did back up with it a few times blade facing forward and it worked well for cleaning up those little spots. I can't forsee any issues with this blade for snow purposes as I already have a box blade I use for grading. You may want a medium duty one for gravel purposes........good luck.

 

[CompactTractorFan]

I am in the market for a rear blade. I plan to use it primarily for snow removal but probably also some grading work. I have read numerous threads (including the merits of front vs rear blade) but still am undecided about size and weight. I think I will be fine with a rear blade as we generally (forgetting about last winter) don't get much snow. I am thinking a seven footer would be best so it stays beyond the tires when angled. My second dilemma (recognizing this is not mutually exclusive from the size decision) is whether to go with a 都tandard duty vs. a 杜edium duty?e.g., Woods RB vs. HBL etc). The weight difference (and price difference) is significant and I am wondering what makes the most sense for my 3320. I plan on getting a blade that I can turn around to allow pushing of the snow - recognizing I need to be careful not to bend any of the three point assembly. My driveway is fairly long but paved. I am leaning toward the "standard duty" but...Thoughts?
Thank You - Dana

Don't know if we're getting much snow this year...