Air compressor lines for stationary air compressor.

[WinterDeere]

I'm the OP on this and here is what I just took down in my barn because I'm having it insulated. It's iron pipe, I put it in 20 years ago and have no idea where I got the plans. It's worked fine for me.

View attachment 3281188

The hose off the connector went into the long pipe on the right that was also a drain. The down pipe on the left is also a drain pipe. The center pipe had a filter and moisture remover and my output hose connected there. This worked well for me. I drained my tank and filter every day when I used it and no problems.

My plan was to ditch this and replace with something new and easy to install but now I'm wondering if I should just put this back up with a new filter and moisture remover and call it good.


These days I just use the compressor to pump up tires and blow off equipment. I paint a few pieces of ag equipment a year and use OEM acrylic enamel paint. I only paint on dry summer days when the temps are right. It's low humidity here and I rarely use the compressor in the winter.

After all the comments, do you think I should leave well enough alone?

Looks like a perfectly useable setup, to me. Why fix what ain’t broken?

 

[CalG]

Just a comment regarding rubber hose.

I like to put a short whip on all my air powered hand tools, and I have a bunch from my aviation days.

Automotive fuel injection hose is by far the BEST when it comes to flexibility, durability and longevity. I even have a 20 foot length that is nearly always on the main hose. I NEVER have to fight that hose to maneuver the tool in my hand. (Spendy though $$)
The only draw back is the inside diameter. There are applications where there is just not enough air passes through.
Like trying to seat a bead on a new tire installation.

 

[WinterDeere]

I put a 30" whip on the business end of my primary air hose. It takes a beating and gets replaced every year or three, protecting the main hose from all that "at the tool" wear and tear.

Most of my tools have the fitting right on the handle, but I do use a flexible hose whip on air hammers and jack hammers, as putting the fitting right on the tool tends to cause fitting failures due to constant vibration. It might actually be a good idea to do the same with needle scalers, although I've honestly never bothered.

 

[sixdogs]

Good point on connections. Where do you buy quality connections?

 

[WinterDeere]

Good point on connections. Where do you buy quality connections?

As in quick couplers? I usually just pick up extras at Tractor Supply or McMaster-Carr, whenever I'm passing thru or ordering something. Keep at least one spare in each size and type you use.

I tend to use the the M-type in 1/4" and Automotive type in 3/8", as they're the easiest to find and replace, in a pinch.

As to "quality", I just buy the all-brass variants in whatever brand is at hand. These things tend to last many years, and their ultimate failure is usually more related to usage than build quality, so this is not an area where I'd waste much time finding the "best quality" alternative. I like the brass ones because they feel better in my hand and are less abusive to my epoxy-coated floor. Also, if you don't have a good separator/dryer upstream of your quick-disconnects, the steel ones will tend to rust a bit from the inside, after a few years.

 

[mikester]

I used hydraulic hose to connect my compressor to my black pipe lines, T traps and regulator/oilers at each drop.

My neighbour works on classic cars. He used 3/4" copper pipe to plumb his shop. He says it helps keeps the moisture down as it condenses on the copper tubing and his air filter/cleaner takes out the rest for painting.

 

[WinterDeere]

I used a 2-foot length of 300 psi air hose, in the 3/4" size, to connect my compressor to my all-copper hard-plumbed system:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[gstrom99]

My plan was to ditch this and replace with something new and easy to install but now I'm wondering if I should just put this back up with a new filter and moisture remover and call it good.

These days I just use the compressor to pump up tires and blow off equipment. I paint a few pieces of ag equipment a year and use OEM acrylic enamel paint. I only paint on dry summer days when the temps are right. It's low humidity here and I rarely use the compressor in the winter.

After all the comments, do you think I should leave well enough alone?

I'd just put it back up, modified as needed and with an updated filter/moisture trap. Save the extra $.

 

[sixdogs]

I used a 2-foot length of 300 psi air hose, in the 3/4" size, to connect my compressor to my all-copper hard-plumbed system:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Fo my connector hose I think I used a 3 ft piece of tractor hydraulic hose. 3,000 or 5,000 psi. Plan to get a new one like that. OK?

 

[5030]

So long as you isolate the compressor(s) from your hard lines, all is good. In my case I use a braided stainless flex hose between the compressors and the hard lines and between the hard lines and the receivers.

I looked at the cheapo Chinese timed moisture drains as well, but I prefer domestic made if at all possible so I went with the Suburban Manufacturing timed drain from Compressors Direct. It cost more but it's also made here in America and being patriotic whenever possible, I bought the American made unit. Looks like the Chinses / Amazon unit but made here. I bet the Chinese bought one and copied it.