Air Compressor puzzle

[Redneck in training]

I know you are joining the party late and thanks but all of this was tried. I am now attempting to know why the run the capacitor line goes to zero. Is it supposed to?

The winding should measure high resistance against the green wire. If it is not the case then the motor is shot (unless you see some wire insulation rubbed off and the conductor touching the body of the motor). You need to describe what wires you put your meter leads on, what function and range you used and what the meter show. Otherwise it is hard to figure what you are doing.

In fact, you should inspect the power cable and the plug. I have seen a plug that got wet and the plastic became "carbonized" (became conductive) blowing the breaker. Also, metal dust in an example from grinding or plasma cutting will kill anything electrical over time.

 

[arrow]

The winding should measure high resistance against the green wire. If it is not the case then the motor is shot (unless you see some wire insulation rubbed off and the conductor touching the body of the motor). You need to describe what wires you put your meter leads on, what function and range you used and what the meter show. Otherwise it is hard to figure what you are doing.

In fact, you should inspect the power cable and the plug. I have seen a plug that got wet and the plastic became "carbonized" (became conductive) blowing the breaker. Also, metal dust in an example from grinding or plasma cutting will kill anything electrical over time.

Ok, I'll take pics of what i'm doing. thanks.

 

[arrow]

I am just trying to help your trouble shooting logic skills for next time. Regardless of what you find. Going to a plug with higher amperage breaker was unsafe. Plus it made no sense when trouble shooting, since it worked at one time.

What I am saying is,maybe this isn't your thing. Go buy another before someone gets hurt or fire.

Thank you again for your input and concern. I disagree with one point however. Going to another plug disqualified the plug socket and or circuit as being bad. The amperage increase was simply a coincidence and told me it was not an external power issue. I made mention of it incase someone else who knew more about this stuff got a further clue. It may have been dangerous but probably no more so than being a logger for 30 years.

You are correct in saying this stuff is not my "thing" but so many other things I've learned about started as "not my thing" as well. Other than doing the preliminary reading as to how a charged capacitor touched incorrectly can absolutely ruin your day by killing you, I'd like to think I have things in hand with an unplugged compressor.

 

[arrow]

Here are some pics: First the meter as set on Ohms. I grounded the black lead to the green wire in the motor first. I then touched the output wire from the start capacitor. Nothing or no needle movement. I then touched the black wire with the red meter lead while meter was grounded. Nothing. I then touched each run capacitor wire while meter was grounded. Nothing. I then touched the two run capacitor wires and the needle went to zero. I then touched the green wire and the motor casing: the needle went to zero. All other touches needle stayed on infinity.

 

[Zerk]

Not sure what logging has to do with burning your house down.. but as long as realize that if it would worked with higher amperage breaker you still could have a problem.


Not a pro, but I enjoy running a saw. They logged behind me this winter. Left an unawful mess, but lots of good firewood that I won't have to split. Hoping to get a year or 2.

Just bought husky 545. Can't have to many saws.

 

[MossRoad]

... Other than doing the preliminary reading as to how a charged capacitor touched incorrectly can absolutely ruin your day by killing you, I'd like to think I have things in hand with an unplugged compressor.

Google search for people being killed by handling a charged capacitor carelessly and post the results here.... its gonna take you a while, as it doesn't happen very often.

Not saying it isn't a hazard, as it really is. But the occurrence is extremely rare. You're more likely to be struck by lighting (good analogy), multiple times.

 

[MossRoad]

As I understand it, to test a capacitor, you set your meter on a high OHM rating, and touch the two leads with the two meter probes. The meter should read zero and start moving towards infinity as it charges from the battery in your meter. Then you can set it to volts and read the voltage stored in the capacitor and it should start dropping as it discharges through the meter. The caps should be disconnected from everything to test them, or the rest of the circuit will effect the results.

Here's a good video that explains it pretty well.

Capacitor Test - YouTube

 

[MossRoad]

If its blowing breakers, that's an overload. Bad caps would probably just cause it to sit there and hum the motor, not trip the breaker in 3 seconds.

So I gotta ask a couple questions, and please forgive me if they've already been asked. I worked in I.T. for 25+ years and the first thing you learn doing help desk support is that while you don't have a clue what the person needing help's knowledge level is, they'll get irked if you ask them questions below their knowledge level real quick. :laughing: So here goes...

Did the compressor ever work?
Did it work one day, then start blowing breakers the next time you tried to use it?
Is there any air pressure in the tank?
Have you tried bleeding off all the air pressure and trying it again?
There's a pressure switch and there should be an unloader in that pressure switch. If its not unloading (bleeding off the air pressure in the area between the compressor and the tank), it can cause enough pressure that the motor can't spin. Bleeding off the tank of all air pressure will let you skip by a bad unloader to test that theory.
Have you tried disconnecting the compressor from electrical power and turning the motor by hand?
Does the motor turn freely?
Have you tried disconnecting the motor from the compressor and turning the compressor by hand?
Does it turn freely with no air pressure built up?
I think I read you changed the caps...
Were there two caps or one cap?
Test one/both caps while they are disconnected from everything else.
If they appear to take and hold a charge, they are probably good.

If the pressure/on-off switch is good...
And the unloader is working...
And there is no air pressure in the tank...
And the capacitors check out good...
And you can spin the motor by hand easily...
And you can spin the compressor by hand easily...
And it still blows the breaker after it's turned on after a couple seconds....
Then the motor is suspect and probably has an internal short.
Pull the motor and take it to a local motor repair shop and ask them to bench test it if it doesn't cost too much for peace of mind.

Here's a link to a really good troubleshooting guide.... hope it helps.
LEESON® Electric | Motor Trouble-Shooting Chart

 

[arrow]

If its blowing breakers, that's an overload. Bad caps would probably just cause it to sit there and hum the motor, not trip the breaker in 3 seconds.

So I gotta ask a couple questions, and please forgive me if they've already been asked. I worked in I.T. for 25+ years and the first thing you learn doing help desk support is that while you don't have a clue what the person needing help's knowledge level is, they'll get irked if you ask them questions below their knowledge level real quick. :laughing: So here goes...

Did the compressor ever work?....but of course
Did it work one day, then start blowing breakers the next time you tried to use it?.....yes
Is there any air pressure in the tank?....no
Have you tried bleeding off all the air pressure and trying it again?.....yes
There's a pressure switch and there should be an unloader in that pressure switch. If its not unloading (bleeding off the air pressure in the area between the compressor and the tank), it can cause enough pressure that the motor can't spin. Bleeding off the tank of all air pressure will let you skip by a bad unloader to test that theory......did so
Have you tried disconnecting the compressor from electrical power and turning the motor by hand?.....yes
Does the motor turn freely?....yes
Have you tried disconnecting the motor from the compressor and turning the compressor by hand?....no
Does it turn freely with no air pressure built up?....yes
I think I read you changed the caps..yes...
Were there two caps or one cap?....there are 2
Test one/both caps while they are disconnected from everything else.....yes. They both test good.
If they appear to take and hold a charge, they are probably good.....yes but they should not be "holding" a charge but letting it go hence the return to infinity which they do nicely.

If the pressure/on-off switch is good...It turns on the motor but do not know if this means switch is good completely
And the unloader is working.... no pressure in tank to unload
And there is no air pressure in the tank...see above
And the capacitors check out good...yes
And you can spin the motor by hand easily...yes
And you can spin the compressor by hand easily...yes
And it still blows the breaker after it's turned on after a couple seconds....yes
Then the motor is suspect and probably has an internal short....ok
Pull the motor and take it to a local motor repair shop and ask them to bench test it if it doesn't cost too much for peace of mind.

Here's a link to a really good troubleshooting guide.... hope it helps.
LEESON® Electric | Motor Trouble-Shooting Chart

Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.

 

[MossRoad]

Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.

I enjoy a good puzzle! :laughing:

Good luck in troubleshooting it. Let us know how its going. :thumbsup: