OP
Hill HIgh Guy
Member
The power trac would be nice but I need full tractor capabilities (TLB) for dirt work.
Another slope application question
- Thread starter Hill HIgh Guy
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ericm979
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I haven't had a problem with the R4s sliding.
jcbGM
Silver Member
Then you’re not on a steep slope. I had a Deere 4400 with R4s. No loader during mowing and hung 300lbs off the front. I wouldn’t dare mow my wife’s horse pastures until afternoon and was sure all of the dew was burnt off. Even then it would slide both in the direction of travel and laterally. R1s for me please!
GirlWhoWantsTractor
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AxleHub
Elite Member
Hill High Guy,
You're going to get considerable differences of opinion on any tractor need with TBN contributors. . . and when you add in slope and sidehill issues, it gets even more "spread" on opinions. Some will say heavier/bigger & wider is the way to go while others will say "lower to the ground and wider" is the key.
But there are some priorities to consider and some concessions to any perfect choice. If you truly have steeper sidehills for mowing, you don't want a front end loader or backhoes attached. . . . Slopes can accept such units when you're careful but honest-to-goodness steeper sidehills don't give much slack for them Imo. But also in this mix is the fact that people refer to slope angles in different ways not to mention how deep (or wide) those sidehill slopes are makes a difference.
Also ground clearance is an issue because that isn't adjustable and while more clearance is good in woods or rough pasture - I believe less ground clearance is better on sidehills. (regardless of tractor frame size)
But the real "get to it" issue to me is what do you need to "do" to make the steep parts what you eventually want? To me the questions get answered when you understand you have possibly 2 needs - and not one :
1. What needs to be done to get those sidehills to the desired look and feel? (leveling the eveness of the surface, brush hogging and stump removal, tilling to smooth the surface for planting/seeding, rock removal, landscaping with trees or garden juts or landscape blocks or rock walls or ????)
2. What do you need to maintain it to have your "decent lawn"? Just the term "decent lawn" could describe farm lawn or city lawn or estate lawn or merely "green growth" - all of which means many different things. As just a simple example - lets say you want a thick lawn that stands up to weeds better and is durable without steady irrigation - that would mean something like Kentucky Blue Grass - which is dense (dense). This makes a beautiful and practical lawn - but not a lawn you want to cut at 7 or 8 inches high once every few weeks. Also - with a Kentucky Bluegrass - on sidehills - you don't want to cut it damp or wet - because what ever your tractor choice - it will slip. Last issue is tire choice. You can use use any kind of tire you want on a decent lawn - but the wrong choices will quickly change a decent lawn into "not a decent" lawn - and its never more true than on sidehills. My neighbor has similar slops as mine but not the sidehill issues the same way. They got a demo unit dropped off by a dealer - but it had ag tire treading (this was a nice large heavy duty 4 wd lawn tractor). 5 minutes on the demo and they already had several lawn repair needs. They ended up with the same model of unit they demo-ed with turf tires and they don't have such needs since.
Maybe these 2 issues can be answered with 1 tractor or maybe it's a tractor and a rental/hire of a track drive skid steer pulling implements. (track drive skidsteers not only have great traction, heavy weight and virtually no ground clearance - but their actual impact to the ground is stunningly small on a per square inch basis).
But if you think you can get consensus agreement of opinions (or you feel you need consensus) . . . I think that is exceedingly difficult.
In my case when I'm cutting lawn in the front with my bigger sidehill angles and considerable slope angles, dog walkers just stare when they see me on my GC1715 with belly mower.
If your dealer was really wanting to be accurate. . they'd stand and walk on the land because grass hides land smoothness and land issues as well as what the true slant and inclines are. But walking it really impacts decisions just as actual test drives on the land will.
Jmho
You're going to get considerable differences of opinion on any tractor need with TBN contributors. . . and when you add in slope and sidehill issues, it gets even more "spread" on opinions. Some will say heavier/bigger & wider is the way to go while others will say "lower to the ground and wider" is the key.
But there are some priorities to consider and some concessions to any perfect choice. If you truly have steeper sidehills for mowing, you don't want a front end loader or backhoes attached. . . . Slopes can accept such units when you're careful but honest-to-goodness steeper sidehills don't give much slack for them Imo. But also in this mix is the fact that people refer to slope angles in different ways not to mention how deep (or wide) those sidehill slopes are makes a difference.
Also ground clearance is an issue because that isn't adjustable and while more clearance is good in woods or rough pasture - I believe less ground clearance is better on sidehills. (regardless of tractor frame size)
But the real "get to it" issue to me is what do you need to "do" to make the steep parts what you eventually want? To me the questions get answered when you understand you have possibly 2 needs - and not one :
1. What needs to be done to get those sidehills to the desired look and feel? (leveling the eveness of the surface, brush hogging and stump removal, tilling to smooth the surface for planting/seeding, rock removal, landscaping with trees or garden juts or landscape blocks or rock walls or ????)
2. What do you need to maintain it to have your "decent lawn"? Just the term "decent lawn" could describe farm lawn or city lawn or estate lawn or merely "green growth" - all of which means many different things. As just a simple example - lets say you want a thick lawn that stands up to weeds better and is durable without steady irrigation - that would mean something like Kentucky Blue Grass - which is dense (dense). This makes a beautiful and practical lawn - but not a lawn you want to cut at 7 or 8 inches high once every few weeks. Also - with a Kentucky Bluegrass - on sidehills - you don't want to cut it damp or wet - because what ever your tractor choice - it will slip. Last issue is tire choice. You can use use any kind of tire you want on a decent lawn - but the wrong choices will quickly change a decent lawn into "not a decent" lawn - and its never more true than on sidehills. My neighbor has similar slops as mine but not the sidehill issues the same way. They got a demo unit dropped off by a dealer - but it had ag tire treading (this was a nice large heavy duty 4 wd lawn tractor). 5 minutes on the demo and they already had several lawn repair needs. They ended up with the same model of unit they demo-ed with turf tires and they don't have such needs since.
Maybe these 2 issues can be answered with 1 tractor or maybe it's a tractor and a rental/hire of a track drive skid steer pulling implements. (track drive skidsteers not only have great traction, heavy weight and virtually no ground clearance - but their actual impact to the ground is stunningly small on a per square inch basis).
But if you think you can get consensus agreement of opinions (or you feel you need consensus) . . . I think that is exceedingly difficult.
In my case when I'm cutting lawn in the front with my bigger sidehill angles and considerable slope angles, dog walkers just stare when they see me on my GC1715 with belly mower.
If your dealer was really wanting to be accurate. . they'd stand and walk on the land because grass hides land smoothness and land issues as well as what the true slant and inclines are. But walking it really impacts decisions just as actual test drives on the land will.
Jmho
Last edited:
MossRoad
Super Moderator
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- Power Trac PT425 2001 Model Year
Have you actually measured your slopes?
Take an 4' 2x4 and lay it on the hill and put one of these $9.00 angle meters from Walmart (they sell them at a lot of other stores, too) on the board and get your actual angles in many places around your property.
Also, you can get a topographical map of your place on-line for free that should show 5' changes in elevation. That'll help you locate the most likely steep places, and you can physically check them with your board and angle meter.
Here's a link to free topo maps from the gubermint.
TNM Download
CobyRupert
Super Member
Can also take a 2x4 of known length ("run"), a level and a tape measure. Hold board level with one end on ground and measure distance to ground on other end ("rise).
AxleHub
Elite Member
Coby and Moss Road,
I like doing the idea of both of your methods in combination - especially if you have a straight 8 foot length board. However - the user needs to be considering the eveness of the ground where they place the board - in order to get the board making even contact across its length. There are also "ball levels" which look like a 2 or 4 foot level except a ball moves inside instead of a bubble - can measure both slope and side slant at the same time.
I often wonder how soon it will be before someone creates a phone app to do this for us
MossRoad
Super Moderator
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That's one of the reasons I like to use a 4' board instead of an 8' board. There might be holes and dips the 8' would span. Heck, a 1 foot board might even be better. It's the unseen hole or dip on the side of the hill that'll surprise you. Like a groundhog hole, for example.
aczlan
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I often wonder how soon it will be before someone creates a phone app to do this for us
There are numerous Android apps that will let your device act like a spirit level as well as like a bullseye level.
Aaron Z
