Another "smoothing lawn thread"

/ Another "smoothing lawn thread" #42  
I've seen someone drag a large sheet of expanded metal, heavy and stiff, that acted like a large grater (not grader). It sheared down high spots and filled dips and holes. They scattered piles of soli around in bad areas too, speeding up the process. Seems like you could add a frame around the sides like a large box, expanded metal for a bottom, and dump soil or sand in it. Then drag it to shear the bumps and let the soil disperse through the heavy screen as it passes over low spots. Of course that is not as much fun as building rake.
 
/ Another "smoothing lawn thread" #43  
Golf Courses and Sports-Turf are groomed with specialized machines, depending on the desired results either a Verticutter or Scarifier which are similar, the difference being depth of cut. This is like a flail mower that has vertical knives that go down into the thatch/dirt pulling up material. High spots will be dug deeper than low spots leaving the sod intact. It depends on the specific implement used but with some you can leave the evenly distributed tailings in place, Some include collection hoppers, others will clump up the tailings requiring you to collect them up with a lawn sweeper or mower with vac. A flail mower can be equipped with vertical blades and adjusted for adequate depth, multiple random direction passes will smooth out the turf by removing high spots. The collected tailings can be composted and topdressed back onto the lawn at a later time.

Turf Tidy - YouTube
 
/ Another "smoothing lawn thread" #45  
You could hire it done, while you sit and watch.


Bruce
 
/ Another "smoothing lawn thread" #47  
The Fred

Protocall on this site requires that you post pics. A video would be better.

The Harley PRO 8 Serrated Roller does 272 RPM at 540, measured via Laser Tach.

I believe the Smooth is the same. I did not measure it, as I had trouble getting readings on these shiny parts. Had to tape them off.
 
/ Another "smoothing lawn thread" #49  
Sheep Foot sheel TBN Ready.jpg


If the tine modifications on your tiller show any promise might could use a design simular to the half shells. Incorporate something on the inside of the shell to rest against several tines after installing. At least that way you could leave your tiller intact. Of course that would be only the two shell design and not the actual teeth or something along that line is worth testing.
 
/ Another "smoothing lawn thread"
  • Thread Starter
#50  
In the middle of making a bunch of T shaped tines now. 1/2" x 2" bar....4" long on the tip of each tee. 32 in total on the 54" tiller.

I thin the single biggest thing that will help is gonna be the gauge wheels, where I can adjust to control depth, rather than roller digging in or coming out ever bump the tractor goes over, continuing to magnify the roughness.
 
/ Another "smoothing lawn thread" #51  
While that'll dig properly do you think the diggings will roll over the top and be dispensed evenly at the rear of the blade as the solid roller with nubs would carry more dirt over since there's no open gaps between the nubs. Since you'll be using this in an area that don't need large pieces and rocks seperated (already finish material) the adjustable shield used on other power rakes wouldn't help you out. I'm assuming you just want to stir up whats there and place it back smooth. I'm just thinking and writing it down and sometimes that can be dangerous:)
 
/ Another "smoothing lawn thread" #52  
Not sure if someone posted this, but I use my box blade to level. I pitch the front up so the rippers and inside front blade are above the ground, with the back blade dragging the ground. I then place small piles of dirt/compost around the rough area and drag through them. The box captures the pile and the back blade dragging spreads and places the material in the low areas while riding over the bumps. I pitch it up so there is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch below the front blade to the top of the hard grass surface. You can go lower to trim mounds in the process, but the key is for the box to be fully resting on the back blade. I then seed and drag the harrow over on its back in a smoothing operation.

With horses I have plenty of material to get rid of and this works well without buying another piece of iron. I also have added more weight to the box using concrete blocks to get better results.
 
 

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