Another "What Size" thread by a clueless newbie....

[MtnViewRanch]

Agree except for the typo. DK40

Hey, H, K at least there in the alphabet somewhere. The link still worked-works. :thumbsup:

 

[jaydee325]

Disclaimer: I bought my first CUT this spring, so I don't have a lot of experience to draw on.

I'm going to make a different recommendation.

Take your farm details and property list to each of your dealers and let them make a recommendation.

When I was shopping this past spring, every dealer I talked to asked me what I needed to do. In the end, I went with my gut (there was lots of influence from this site) and ultimately went one size bigger than where most of the dealers recommended.

I don't think I would have been disappointed going with the dealer recommendations (they were all pretty close). But it is satisfying that the tractor I ended up with exceeds my expectations.

Dealers don't want their customers disappointed in their purchase. So if you go one size up, I'm pretty sure you will end up with a very capable tractor.:thumbsup:

 

[Shawn B]

50 HP 4WD with loader would be just fine in my opinion. You can run a 6' mower with out a problem and 1200 to 1250# shouldn't be any problem. In a NH that would be a boomer 50, but if you have an LS dealer around they make that boomer 50 it would be an LS4047, less money larger loader capacity, same tractor and if I am not mistaken LS just started 0% financing I think.

Excellent advice. Just checked, LS dealer about 60 miles away. I think I shall visit them on Monday.

I'd look for a base machine that weighs 3,500lbs, not including FEL, 40HP minimum, 2K+ lift on the FEL, and an HST transmission (very handy when doing loader work, or mowing/brush hogging).

As far as brand goes, realize that some big names aren't making their own compact tractors now. For example, a NH Boomer 35/40/50 and corresponding Case/IH Farmall B models are actually an LS R3039/4041/4047 respectively....but NH and Case charge much more (like $8K).

A lot of companies are offering 0% financing right now, which helps a lot...some even up to 84 months (I just saw that LS is offering this).

I wouldn't go any smaller than a 6' finish mower, and brush cutter, with that size tractor, and that much land.

The good thing is that you can go to any of the brands you mentioned (including a few more like Yanmar or LS) and get a machine that will fill the bill perfectly....you'd be hard-pressed to find a bad one in the bunch.

Exactly what I was looking for on information. Specifics on what will do what I need to get done.

I've noticed the weight differences on tractors and understand leverage. 1,200 pounds on the end of a long arm is a lot of leverage to lift rear tires.

As mentioned above, I'm gonna go visit LS on Monday (or Tuesday).

It is difficult to follow GManBart.

You may as well focus in on your hay bale requirements. Handling 1,250 pounds and stacking two bales high on a trailer is your minimum requirement.

I recommend 50-hp to 70-hp, four-wheel-drive and concur in a tractor weight of 3,400 to 4,400 pounds.

In Kubota that puts you in the 'M/MX' range with a LA844 loader = 1,874 pounds lift, full height, when new or a LA1154 loader = 2,535 pounds lift, full height, when new.

Lifting heavy loads with an FEL is when people topple their tractors, especially light tractors. More tractor weight provides more stability than less tractor weight.

While you might be able to lift a bale without a counterbalance mounted on the three point hitch...DON'T DO IT. The rear end will be light without a counterbalance and should you drop a front wheel into a hole, or rut, or turn downhill, over you will go.

It may be difficult to follow GManbart, but you did very well indeed.

Appreciate the additional information greatly.

Check out LS or Kioti, Say The DK-40 or 50. Don't see why you would need a 70 HP machine unless you were Haying.

A buddy has a 55-horse Kioti he loves. Got a dealer in Lufkin, TX which is reasonably close.

I would think the smallest Kubota you could get by with would by an L4600 and that may still be reasonably priced. Larger, heavier tractors would probably make the job easier for you, but you could probably use something in the 40hp and up range.

I have an L3800 and I believe round bales would be at the very top of my specs either on the 3ph or loader (and maybe over on the loader).

Again, great info.

 

[IslandTractor]

With regard to ballast, there are lots of threads discussing the options and pros and cons. My simple answer would be to either always have a heavy implement on the back (heavy Boxblade, mower, backhoe) or a dedicated 3pt ballast box or to just load the tires. I wouldn't load the tires if you want to trailer with your current trailer as you are already on the heavy side with any 40+HP tractor. If you get a bigger towing rig then loading the tires is the easiest, cheapest and most convenient way to add ballast. Doesn't interfere with maneuverability like a big mower does either.

 

[Shawn B]

Is your trailer capable of hauling 7K of payload, or is that the combined GVW? My tractor weighs 3800lbs, the loader is 1100lbs, the bucket weighs 300lbs, and my standard counterweight is 1350lbs....that will just squeeze on a 10K GVW trailer with a little room to spare.

Well...

Now I may have to upgrade my trailer requirements. I was *hoping* I would not need a bigger trailer and possibly a bigger vehicle than my Tahoe to tow it.

I have noticed that the trailers generally have two (2) 3500 pound axles, then the next jump-up uses two (2) 5,400 pound axles. I may have to budget more money towards a stronger trailer.

I'd have to say that for the $23K, I'd be looking hard at the Kioti DK40HST or the LS R4041H or even the R4047H.

Just my :2cents: that I happened to find today.

Exactly the products I went and looked at on-line a few minutes ago.

I did not have my bank financing in place, it is in place as of end of business today, nor did I know exactly what I needed till this thread.

But...I just missed a 2010 Kioti DK45, loader, bushhog, 190-hours, combo in Craigslist. $11,500.00. Called the guy earlier this evening, already sold. Alas, another good deal should pop up in the next 30-days. I can pounce on the next one.

Take your farm details and property list to each of your dealers and let them make a recommendation.

When I was shopping this past spring, every dealer I talked to asked me what I needed to do. In the end, I went with my gut (there was lots of influence from this site) and ultimately went one size bigger than where most of the dealers recommended.

I don't think I would have been disappointed going with the dealer recommendations (they were all pretty close). But it is satisfying that the tractor I ended up with exceeds my expectations.

Dealers don't want their customers disappointed in their purchase. So if you go one size up, I'm pretty sure you will end up with a very capable tractor.:thumbsup:

Very good advice.

The Mahindra guy took his time with me, very nice sales-guy and dealership, and he listened to all my needs and pointed me at the 4035.

Which actually lines up very well with the advice in this thread. Weight, hp, lifting capability, all on track.



Arlen and Murphy and everyone else who graced me with your knowledge and expertise, thank you gentlemen.

Perhaps the nicest and most informative initial thread/posts I have ever received on a forum. I required third-party unbiased expertise. You definitely delivered.

I knew when Searching on TBN that plenty of you guys knew your stuff. It was readily apparent.

Like most folks, I have a bit of anxiety over making the correct decision on large purchases. I do a lot of research before I buy anything, drives my wifey nuts.

 

[Shawn B]

With regard to ballast, there are lots of threads discussing the options and pros and cons. My simple answer would be to either always have a heavy implement on the back (heavy Boxblade, mower, backhoe) or a dedicated 3pt ballast box or to just load the tires. I wouldn't load the tires if you want to trailer with your current trailer as you are already on the heavy side with any 40+HP tractor. If you get a bigger towing rig then loading the tires is the easiest, cheapest and most convenient way to add ballast. Doesn't interfere with maneuverability like a big mower does either.

Thanks to you too sir.

Excellent insight. Makes total sense. I'll search out the threads for more reading on appropriate ballast.

My learning-curve on this ranch has been nearly a vertical line for the last few years. Which continues with this whole new universe called "tractors."

Really glad I joined this site, it gives me terrific peace-of-mind that I can search for and/or ask for answers from knowledgeable unbiased folks.

 

[freewookie]

About my favorite attachment goes on the FEL: Ratchet Rake @ $400 You can use RR for minor grading on your road and RR is the berries for tearing out brush and piling brush. THERE IS NOTHING WRONG WITH A USED DIESEL TRACTOR IF WELL MAINTAINED. Ratchet Rake Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvinkbW8Z90

I gotta have one of those!

 

[econometrics]

Shawn, why are you taking trailering the tractor into consideration? Do you foresee yourself moving the tractor often in the future?

The reason I ask is because this is usually something that people really overestimate - how often they need to trailer their equipment. I personally have tried to talk myself into upgrading my 2007 Silverado 1500 to a 2500HD numerous times. However, I have trailered my tractor TWICE this year. And it was to mow 2-3 acres of pasture for a friend.

I say all this to say that you should not limit yourself on tractor size with the possibility of trailering it in mind. If you're an average tractor owner, 98% of your tractor usage will be on your property, and will not require movement via truck/trailer. It is also always possible to rent a truck / trailer combo (or do what I do and bum one from the in laws! ) to move your tractor if you need to.

You sound a lot like me, honestly. Very detailed and research-driven to make sure you think of EVERYTHING before you pull the purchase trigger. (My wife loathes this about me at times, too. )

My $0.02 is that you would be most happy in the long run with at least a 50-70hp tractor. I say this as someone who just upgraded my 50hp JD 5103 to a 75hp JD 5075E because the 50hp 5103 was not doing everything I wanted it to. I have 100 acres, but only about 15-18 of that is NOT in the woods. So it sounds like you have a similar (if not larger) operation to me.

BTW, I just bought my new 5075E open-station with almost every option JD could put on it, and took the 0% for 60mo for now. I think my pmt is $450ish.

Best of luck!

 

[Xfaxman]

I think I am losing my mind. Trying to figure out how much tractor do I require? :confused2:

Farm Details and Property.

* I have had, and will have, immense burn piles to deal with. I'm talking burn piles that are 2,000 square feet and 20 feet high. Some logs in there that are 36" in diameter. The FEL and tractor will be helping me to tend those burn piles.

Any help, expertise, or insight is very much appreciated.

Be careful burning piles that large, I had a smaller one that I burned this summer.


I noticed smoke coming from a dead tree south of the driveway, 150' away.


Called the volunteer fire dept. to put it out, so that I could push it over, down the hill.

The Fire Chief said the radiant heat above the fire is what started this one burning.
There were two dead limbs on other trees close by that were burning also.

Had to cut off some branches that were caught on other trees, so that the Versahandler could pull it out.


Picked it up and took it across the driveway, it will be the start of the next burn pile.

 

[econometrics]

Be careful burning piles that large, I had a smaller one that I burned this summer.

Whew, this is exactly why I try to CHIP as much of my brush as possible. Burn piles freak me out. Especially since my property has about 75 acres of woods, and a lot of it pine. And we know what comes with pines... pine needles. And those babies are flammable!

I keep my piles pretty small, too, and just push more brush in when the fire starts to quell down a bit.

Good advice, and example, Xfaxman! Glad that didn't end up in a wildfire for you. Whew!

 

[Shawn B]

Shawn, why are you taking trailering the tractor into consideration? Do you foresee yourself moving the tractor often in the future?

The reason I ask is because this is usually something that people really overestimate - how often they need to trailer their equipment. I personally have tried to talk myself into upgrading my 2007 Silverado 1500 to a 2500HD numerous times. However, I have trailered my tractor TWICE this year. And it was to mow 2-3 acres of pasture for a friend.

I say all this to say that you should not limit yourself on tractor size with the possibility of trailering it in mind. If you're an average tractor owner, 98% of your tractor usage will be on your property, and will not require movement via truck/trailer. It is also always possible to rent a truck / trailer combo (or do what I do and bum one from the in laws! ) to move your tractor if you need to.

You sound a lot like me, honestly. Very detailed and research-driven to make sure you think of EVERYTHING before you pull the purchase trigger. (My wife loathes this about me at times, too. )

You are right. About the trailer and detailed research driven.

Aside from getting it home, I don't see the tractor off my property except for any repairs. Which I hope are few and far between. I would prefer to do all the general basic maintenance-stuff myself. (So it is perfect. LOL)

I could borrow a trailer from my bookkeepers husband no issues. He and I are buddies and he has a couple honkin' trailers and a new F250.

I see myself needing a trailer for:

1) Getting this tractor/implements home.

2) Taking my 2,450 pound, sports car-low, 21-year old automobile (my baby) to a convention and/or track once a year.

3) Taking my Kubota ZG227 zero turn to Kubota for any necessary repairs.

4) Moving general stuff around my farm. Dirt, felled/trimmed tree debris to burn piles, fencing materials, whatever needs "moving over yonder."


I was *hoping* an 18-foot, dual 3,500-pound axle, car hauler or pipe-top trailer would suffice for all of the above. Most car-haulers have those built-in "sockets" for 2x4 wood sides to be inserted. I could build those no problems, pop them in or out, store them in my shed or barn.

My $0.02 is that you would be most happy in the long run with at least a 50-70hp tractor. I say this as someone who just upgraded my 50hp JD 5103 to a 75hp JD 5075E because the 50hp 5103 was not doing everything I wanted it to. I have 100 acres, but only about 15-18 of that is NOT in the woods. So it sounds like you have a similar (if not larger) operation to me.

BTW, I just bought my new 5075E open-station with almost every option JD could put on it, and took the 0% for 60mo for now. I think my pmt is $450ish.

Best of luck!

I was just looking at this, which happens to be in my neck of the woods.

John Deere Tractor Packages at Fosters Farm

That $433/mo is very do-able. Brand new gear has it's appeal.

On the other hand, this dude still has not pulled his Craigslist ad, even though he sold this Kioti tractor.

Kioti ds4510 tractor

That is one very appealing deal I just barely missed.

Be careful burning piles that large, I had a smaller one that I burned this summer.

I noticed smoke coming from a dead tree south of the driveway, 150' away.

Called the volunteer fire dept. to put it out, so that I could push it over, down the hill.

The Fire Chief said the radiant heat above the fire is what started this one burning.
There were two dead limbs on other trees close by that were burning also.

Had to cut off some branches that were caught on other trees, so that the Versahandler could pull it out.

Picked it up and took it across the driveway, it will be the start of the next burn pile.

Ahem...the volunteer fire department saved my *** last summer when I set a small pasture on fire.

I agree.

When I do the big ones, I wait until it has been, and is raining. Everything really soaked.

I really should be doing smaller piles, and more of them. Still after a huge rain, and a couple hundred feet from the edges of my pastures.

Whew, this is exactly why I try to CHIP as much of my brush as possible. Burn piles freak me out. Especially since my property has about 75 acres of woods, and a lot of it pine. And we know what comes with pines... pine needles. And those babies are flammable!

I keep my piles pretty small, too, and just push more brush in when the fire starts to quell down a bit.

Good advice, and example, Xfaxman! Glad that didn't end up in a wildfire for you. Whew!

Advice noted gentlemen.

My learning-curve out here has been a vertical line for the last few years.

Sometimes I feel quite overwhelmed to be honest. "OK, I have to do and/or buy X, and know less than nothing about X."

I sound like a broken record, but thanks for all the input/advice/expertise.

 

[grm61]

If you buy new, it seems to be a common practice that the dealer delivers the tractor to you.

 

[econometrics]

You are right. About the trailer and detailed research driven.

Aside from getting it home, I don't see the tractor off my property except for any repairs. Which I hope are few and far between. I would prefer to do all the general basic maintenance-stuff myself. (So it is perfect. LOL)

I could borrow a trailer from my bookkeepers husband no issues. He and I are buddies and he has a couple honkin' trailers and a new F250.

I see myself needing a trailer for:

1) Getting this tractor/implements home.

2) Taking my 2,450 pound, sports car-low, 21-year old automobile (my baby) to a convention and/or track once a year.

3) Taking my Kubota ZG227 zero turn to Kubota for any necessary repairs.

4) Moving general stuff around my farm. Dirt, felled/trimmed tree debris to burn piles, fencing materials, whatever needs "moving over yonder."


I was *hoping* an 18-foot, dual 3,500-pound axle, car hauler or pipe-top trailer would suffice for all of the above. Most car-haulers have those built-in "sockets" for 2x4 wood sides to be inserted. I could build those no problems, pop them in or out, store them in my shed or barn.

You said you had a Tahoe? What's the tow rating on that? 7500lbs?

An 18' pipe trailer with at least 5K axles would do you just fine. Even if you bought that 5045D with a FEL, you could pull that with your Tahoe if you really needed to. I wouldn't make a daily exercise of it, and I would definitely get a trailer with some good trailer brakes, too. But that Chevy would pull a 5K tractor (which is about what the 5045D is with the FEL and bucket).

Keep us posted with what you decide.

 

[foreman Etexas]

I am going to suggest something around 45hp and up,with 4wd. Kubota MX5100/M5140,Mahindra 4530/5010/5035,JD 5045E/5055E just few model #s. You can always ask baler to bale you smaller bales and use a smaller unit, like the 4035 you looked at and still run a 6ft cutter.

 

[Shawn B]

If you buy new, it seems to be a common practice that the dealer delivers the tractor to you.

Well now, that is news to me. Thank you sir.

You said you had a Tahoe? What's the tow rating on that? 7500lbs?

An 18' pipe trailer with at least 5K axles would do you just fine. Even if you bought that 5045D with a FEL, you could pull that with your Tahoe if you really needed to. I wouldn't make a daily exercise of it, and I would definitely get a trailer with some good trailer brakes, too. But that Chevy would pull a 5K tractor (which is about what the 5045D is with the FEL and bucket).

Keep us posted with what you decide.

I had to look it up.

2004*Chevrolet*Tahoe Reviews, Specs and Prices

"7,700 pounds when properly equipped." My towing package is the dealer-installed one. I would therefore *assume* it is 7,700 pounds.

With the correct length ramps, I am *guessing* I would be able to get a sports-car onto the pipe trailer with no issues?

18-foot pipe trailer, 5,400 lb axles, brakes on the trailer, ramps, and I should be able to multi-use this type of trailer(?).

I am going to suggest something around 45hp and up,with 4wd. Kubota MX5100/M5140,Mahindra 4530/5010/5035,JD 5045E/5055E just few model #s. You can always ask baler to bale you smaller bales and use a smaller unit, like the 4035 you looked at and still run a 6ft cutter.

Excellent input.

Currently I must have something that is fully capable to move my current sixty (60) large (1,250 pound) bales. And I am a newbie-operator.

In the future, I've already thought about asking my hay-guy to do my bales at a smaller size. My bales last year (different hay-guy) were about 2/3's the size of my current bales. Maybe 800-pounds (?). I have a small operation and would rather easily/safely make an extra trip or two once a week to supply hay to my cows. Taking them 3-4 medium sized bales instead of two honkin' bales.

I also *think* six-foot cutters will be plenty for my farm. I am still stunned at how much I can mow, and how fast, with my Kubota zero turn mower that has a 54-inch deck. Jumping up to a 72" deck will make a really wide cut-path, even if I am moving slower on a tractor. My two (2) 10-acre cow pastures and my 18-acre hay-field will be pretty quick work in my estimation.

Can't say thanks enough gentlemen.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Well now, that is news to me. Thank you sir.


I had to look it up.

2004*Chevrolet*Tahoe Reviews, Specs and Prices

"7,700 pounds when properly equipped." My towing package is the dealer-installed one. I would therefore *assume* it is 7,700 pounds.

With the correct length ramps, I am *guessing* I would be able to get a sports-car onto the pipe trailer with no issues?

18-foot pipe trailer, 5,400 lb axles, brakes on the trailer, ramps, and I should be able to multi-use this type of trailer(?).




Excellent input.

Currently I must have something that is fully capable to move my current sixty (60) large (1,250 pound) bales. And I am a newbie-operator.

In the future, I've already thought about asking my hay-guy to do my bales at a smaller size. My bales last year (different hay-guy) were about 2/3's the size of my current bales. Maybe 800-pounds (?). I have a small operation and would rather easily/safely make an extra trip or two once a week to supply hay to my cows. Taking them 3-4 medium sized bales instead of two honkin' bales.


I would spray for weeds on all the pasture and let the cattle do the mowing. Get what hay need,if thats one cutting good deal,maybe sell your second if a market,then still allow for your hay meadow to grow and turn your cattle into it during winter,,they can eat the tall dead grass,no need to mow,may have to clean it up some the following spring,depending on what type grass your growing. For 15head I would only put out 2 bales at a time,so they are not getting a lot and not eating it down,before gets weathered and a lot of waste. But two keeps the fighting down,but if have them seperated probably just do one to both groups,I don't know how your set up. I don't only feed hay,I put out 20%cubes couple times week and minerals/salt stay all year. I like to un-roll my hay but sometimes don't have the time to feed everyday and ground may be to wet for that but it sure saves on waste.
I know you have the hay to move what you got already but the lift on the 3pt on even a smaller hp unit will move them and loader will lift them,maybe not that good but get you by until all fed and move to the smaller bales. I think the Kubota L4600/mx4700 would do everything, but that's the minimum I would say,if trying to get done with smallest possible. Its not really all about HP but the size and weight of the tractor. Like pulling with the Tahoe you can really load it down and will probably move it or would you like to work in a safer work range and that's why suggest the larger tractors,even up to the 7060 or JD 5075.
I like my 18ft car hauler over a pipe top for these reason. Side loads better,hauling car can open the doors/dove tail so don't high center,over all width makes for a better pull.
That's my old M5040 moving 5x6 bales

 

[bilrus61]

You can get by very well without a finishing mower. Use your ZTR around the house and for the bigger stuff use your bushhog. A bushhog can make stuff look pretty darn good if you keep the blades in good shape. Take the money you budgeted for the finishing mower and put it on the tractor/loader or a 8 foot bushhog would be my best advice. Just too much trouble taking implements on and off every week. You'll end up mowing with the ZTR and just the bushhog I think.......Look for a M series Kubota used on Craigslist. Check and see if you can find a M5040/M5140 or a M6040. The loaders should do what you want and they are cheaper than the 7040. Mowing a 20 acre pasture with a 6 foot bushhog takes a LONG time. Might want to think about a 8 foot. My Landpride 8 foot mows very nice and clean. I have a SCAG Cheetah ZTR, it and the 8 foot Landpride keeps the farm looking great. If you have cows grazing it you might not need a bushhog at all..........

 

[Shawn B]

Foreman and Bilrus, thanks for the input, I'm gonna reply tomorrow.

I'm beat from driving to the Kioti dealer in Texas. I think it was closer to 70 miles or so. Got back a half hour ago.

I don't think I posted the Mahindra numbers yet, and here's the Kioti numbers as well.

Mahindra 4025: $23,100.00 0% 72 months

Mahindra 3535: $23,150 Uh...I think 0% 72 months. I can double check tomorrow.

Mahindra 4035: $23,500 0% 72 months, $21,700 2.99% 60 months, or $21,700 3.99% 61-84 months.

The 4025 is a sliding-mesh tranny (only), and 3535 is shuttle (only), and I *think* those number for the 4035 are for shuttle. I can double-check tomorrow, and ask what the 4035HST costs.

Mahindra required 10% down.

Kioti numbers from my local dealer.

Kioti DK40SE: $22,040

Kioti DK40SE HST(C): $23,545

Kioti DK45SE: $23,995

Kioti DK45SE HST(C): $24,540

All at 3.45% over 72 months.

 

[mikehaugen]

Are those with loaders?

 

[GreenWannabe]

A couple of observations I didn't see mentioned.

First, I would select the implement sizes and capacities you need to accomplish the most of your work (the 80% rule). My buddies convinced me last year to get a 6' brush hog to cut my 12 acres of former hay field, rather than the 5 footer I thought would do. They told me it would take me a long time to cut it with a five foot unit, and I decidd their arguments held merit. Twenty acres to mow is a lot more. How often do you want to mow it? If every month, you may want a wider unit My Kioti DK45SE is not recommended for more than six feet, nor is the DK50SE (same tractor, more horsepower but not more weight). These tractors are compact tractors, they are not like the same horsepower tractors from thirty years ago which weighed twice as much.

Second is FEL lift capacity. IIRC, the Kioti and Mahindra both are rated at the pivot point. Lifting a bale where the center of gravity is three feet forward of the pivot point reduces the lift capacity quite a bit. As an example, a loader rated at 2368 lbs at the pivot pin can only lift 1742 lbs if the load is centered about 20 inches forward of the pivot point. Three feet forward will reduce it much more. And for any really heavy lift like round bales, you need not only a counterweight on the three point hitch (a heavy one, like 800 lbs) but also filled rear tires, further adding to the weight of the tractor. I estimate the weight of my DK45SE to be about 7500 lbs, with filled tires and 810 lbs of counterweight. For round bales, I would want a lift capacity at the pivot pins at least 2 1/2 times the weight of the bale.

Once you know for sure what size cutter you want, and how heavy your bales are, they will pretty much dictate your tractor needs. Compact tractors are not menat to handle cutters much bigger than six foot models, and are probably marginal for large round bales. I would be looking at utility tractors in the 55 to 70 horsepower range, which should open up the used market for you considerably. There is a lot of value in many loder tractors, but you do need someone who is knowledgeable to evaluate each one that you are interested in. You can always hire somenone with a roll-off wrecker truck to bring it home for you.

A final note - my dealer tells me that he sends out his rolloff to bring tractors in for repair when they need it, but the owner can't bring it in. I do expect to pay for that service, but I know his rates are reasonable - not what a normal wrecker operator would charge, even though his equipment is larger than most wreckers. The reason he is my dealer is that in comparison to the other dealers in my area with tractors that eventually made my short list, he was ten grand cheaper for an equal configuration.

Please be aware that I am not trying to be a naysayer on a compact tractor in the 40-50 horsepower range, that's what worked for me. I am wanting you to be able to accomplish your tasks in a timely manner, with safety. Good luck with your search.