Any experience with Kubota Top n Tilt on Grand L40?

hayden · Oct 5, 2007

I'm close to getting the factory Top N Tilt on a Grand L40. Anyone have one of these and how does it work? I'm particularly interested in knowing whether the Tilt cylinder can be easily removed and the fixed link replaced? It looks to me like the links are bolted on, not pinned, and that swapping between a fixed link and tilt cylinder might be a bit of a project.

Thanks for any insight,

Peter

weiser · Oct 6, 2007

Peter,

I have the top-n-tilt, and really like it. I was planning on getting rear remote(s) anyway, so it wasnt' all "that much" more - but it did cost money. I decided to get it based on some comments I found on an AWESOME website I found called "tractorbynet."

My dealer happened to have a used kit (off another tractor) so I got a bit of a discount on the cylinders themselves.

I like it - and recommend it. This is my first tractor, so I don't have much comparative data as to how often/how much trouble it would be otherwise. I am using the feature with a box blade, and grader blade, and I find it very helpful. It also helps when changing implements, as you can adjust the connection points while attaching.

My top cylinder is connected with pins - not bolts, and the tilt cylinder is bolted on the top, and pinned on the bottom. Hydraulic lines disconnect at the remote panel, so removing them shouldn't be too much trouble - but I've not done that yet. I asked the dealer for the original links (that came with the tractor) just in case I take the cylinder set off at some point - don't know if I ever will.

I should add here that my system isn't working perfectly: the cylinders move quickly in on direction, and VERY slowly in the other. But even with that, I am glad I have the feature. I will attempt to fix the problem eventually, but for now (because it works) I have been living with it.

I'm not sure if your question "how does it work" is asking for operational details or just "how do you like it" - so (based on the length of this response so far) I leave it at: I love it - it's great!

If you want further details, simply clarify, and I'll augment...

hayden · Oct 6, 2007

Thanks. I've got a top N tilt on my B2910 that I made myself, so I'm already sold on the functionality. Most TnTs are aftermarket, and I've never seen one of the Kubota outfits. That's mostly why I'm asking.

The thing that is important to me is to be able to quickly switch back and forth between the tilt cylinder and the fixed side link. I've found that I love the tilt cylinder on box blades and grader blades, but I hate it on most other implements because it slowly leaks down and I find myself constantly adjusting trying to keep an implement like a mower level. I now leave the fixed link on and only use the side cylinder for the select implements that need it. The top of the L40 side link bolts on, and if I have to unbolt the fixed link and bolt on the cylinder to change, that will be a pain.

I stopped by the dealer today and he told me two things. First, is that the Kubota TnT is made by Gannon, and they are probably the most popular aftermarket kit. He also said that the side link is pinned on so it's an easy swap. I hope he's right. We'll see when I get it.

Racer71 · Oct 19, 2007

How is the TnT going?

Gator6x4 · Oct 19, 2007

The Gannon hydraulic cylinders sold by Kubota in their TNT installations will leak down as you stated you found with your 2910. The hydraulic cylinders with the Pilot Valves do not have this problem. Carter & Carter Machinery sells the top and side links. I included their Web site give them a call and obtain pricing. An option is to have your dealer install the valves and purchase the cylinders for C&C. Just my thoughts. I have tried both the Gannon cylinders and the cylinders with the pilot valves. No more cylinders without the pilot valves in a TNT installation for me. To much work and aggravations keeping implements adjusted.

Tractor Hydraulic toplink, Top-N-Tilt, Side link

ringo5 · Feb 10, 2014

I am also searching for a TNT kit for a Grand L40 and came across this thread when searching. The post above is what I am most interested in. I know this is an older thread but the website referenced looks to be no longer valid. Any current info on these Carter & Carter Machinery cylinders or something equal? I want to stay OEM Kubota on the controls so this looks like the best route to take as I don't want cylinders that leak down. Can you buy the OEM Kubota TNT kit with everything except the cylinders?

C4Ranch · Feb 10, 2014

The OEM TNT are mostly just the cylinders and attachment points. When I inquired, the dealership also told me they don't come with the hoses, they have to be made. Which is why I went fit right.

Not sure what else you would expect to be included. The controls are from your remotes, not the TNT.

MtnViewRanch · Feb 10, 2014

ringo5 said:
I am also searching for a TNT kit for a Grand L40 and came across this thread when searching. The post above is what I am most interested in. I know this is an older thread but the website referenced looks to be no longer valid. Any current info on these Carter & Carter Machinery cylinders or something equal? I want to stay OEM Kubota on the controls so this looks like the best route to take as I don't want cylinders that leak down. Can you buy the OEM Kubota TNT kit with everything except the cylinders?

If you feel that you need-want the cylinders with the DPOCVs, then you need to talk to Hay Tools. Good luck. If not and you want to get the most out of your system, then you can contact me.

ringo5 · Feb 10, 2014

C4Ranch said:
The OEM TNT are mostly just the cylinders and attachment points. When I inquired, the dealership also told me they don't come with the hoses, they have to be made. Which is why I went fit right.

Not sure what else you would expect to be included. The controls are from your remotes, not the TNT.

Guess that was one of the things I did not understand. I thought it was all one kit. So I can just get the OEM three valve rear remote kit and it will come with the controls that go into the available slots on the factory control station next to the fender and then just get the better cylinders from elsewhere? I am wanting a clean installation so it looks like it belongs and not a bulky control station bolted somewhere with levers sticking up from a big valve block.

ringo5 · Feb 10, 2014

MtnViewRanch said:
If you feel that you need-want the cylinders with the DPOCVs, then you need to talk to Hay Tools. Good luck. If not and you want to get the most out of your system, then you can contact me.

Well absolutely I want to get the "most" from my system.... :cool2: Do tell.

What do I want? Help me out. I am afraid I am new to the owning tractor and outfitting it correctly thing so I am learning. I have just jumped on borrowed tractors in the past and started chopping, discing and seeding with whatever equipment was on hand. I am using this tractor to do food plots, about 18 that are 1/2-1/4 acre in size and maintain trails on 300 acres in pretty hilly country. I am also getting a dual cylinder grapple bucket for the front to help clear trails and move brush, limbs and trees so I need a set of front remotes with controls. I just want a clean install that looks like it belongs there which is why I was looking at OEM. I also don't want to deal with leaking down as I do not want to have to remove this system for other chores. I would like to put this TNT on and it just stay there whether I am doing trail clearing/leveling or bush hogging or discing and not have to fight a system that leaks down and I am having to readjust to keep things level and working properly for the task at hand. That will just slow the whole process down and give me the red arse, especially if I paid to have the system added on.

C4Ranch · Feb 10, 2014

ringo5 said:
Guess that was one of the things I did not understand. I thought it was all one kit. So I can just get the OEM three valve rear remote kit and it will come with the controls that go into the available slots on the factory control station next to the fender and then just get the better cylinders from elsewhere? I am wanting a clean installation so it looks like it belongs and not a bulky control station bolted somewhere with levers sticking up from a big valve block.

Yes. I'm doing it right now. Started a thread yesterday on adding factory triple remotes. You can see from the pic, they include everything. Levers, valves, brackets, hoses and quick connectors. Yes, they're pricy from Kubota. Once you have that, you can't do a thing with them unless you have "remote" hydraulic implements or TNT cylinders installed.

paulwestski · Feb 10, 2014

The Kubota T&T kit only comes with the hoses and cylinders, you still need the two rear remotes.
Sounds like you need a T&T kit and rear remotes kit.

In my opinion the Kubota cylinders are poorly made. The paint on them appears to only be primer, the welds are ugly and they do leak down.
I never timed how long it takes for them to leak down.

My dealer had to add some stroke limiters to prevent the tilt from hitting the backhoe sub frame (which limits the up stroke)
I still need to look at that and see what the real issue may be.
I wish I had just ordered them from Brian at Fit Rite.

The set that Fit Rite built for my L3800 were first class all the way, welds, paint, cylinder quality and hose assemblies.

Contact Fit Rite they can probably set you up with both.

Although the factory rear remotes are very, very nice, they are also expensive.

If you do buy the factory rear remotes see if you dealer can offer you "whole goods" pricing.

TripleR · Feb 10, 2014

I have Kubota OEM as well as FitRite; both are in my opinion excellent quality.

MtnViewRanch · Feb 10, 2014

ringo5 said:
Well absolutely I want to get the "most" from my system.... :cool2: Do tell.

What do I want? Help me out. I am afraid I am new to the owning tractor and outfitting it correctly thing so I am learning. I have just jumped on borrowed tractors in the past and started chopping, discing and seeding with whatever equipment was on hand. I am using this tractor to do food plots, about 18 that are 1/2-1/4 acre in size and maintain trails on 300 acres in pretty hilly country. I am also getting a dual cylinder grapple bucket for the front to help clear trails and move brush, limbs and trees so I need a set of front remotes with controls. I just want a clean install that looks like it belongs there which is why I was looking at OEM. I also don't want to deal with leaking down as I do not want to have to remove this system for other chores. I would like to put this TNT on and it just stay there whether I am doing trail clearing/leveling or bush hogging or discing and not have to fight a system that leaks down and I am having to readjust to keep things level and working properly for the task at hand. That will just slow the whole process down and give me the red arse, especially if I paid to have the system added on.

Most of the time, especially for the Grand Ls, getting the OEM rear remote control valves is the cleanest and easiest installation. If you decide to not get the units from Hay Tools, then get 2 of the valves with the float function. There are many uses for the float function with the "T&T" cylinders. If you have the check valves, then any use of the float function is eliminated.

Keep in mind that the check valves in use with the "T&T" units is not for the cylinders, it is for the faulty control valves that a person might have. If the cylinders are bad, the check valves DO NOTHING for them. They will still move if the problem is the cylinder. More than 99 out of 100 times, the leak down problems that people talk about is not the cylinder, but the control valve.

You can get after market control valves that are less money and better quality than the OEM units, the problem with the after market valves is to get them in an acceptable location. There have been a few people that have gone to the trouble to get their after market valves tucked down in between the seat and the fender and when all said and done, "most" people would not even know that they were not OEM controls.

I could go on and on, but don't really have the time. Do some research and you can see both points of view. Both sides are viable, really depends on what you intend to use your top & tilt set for.

Good luck.

The Fred · Feb 11, 2014

In my opinion the Kubota cylinders are poorly made. The paint on them appears to only be primer, the welds are ugly and they do leak down.
I never timed how long it takes for them to leak down.

The leakdown is in the tractor end and NOT the cylinders.
I would assume Kubota designed this into their system. Strange that I can leave my FEL up all the way for 3 weeks and it never moves yet the TNT cylinders will leak down unless the hoses are disconnected.

Fred

Oiltech · Feb 11, 2014

I added the TNT to my L3540, dealer sold me the Kubota aux kit and I installed on my tractor, it took about 5-6 hours, I then mounted the hydraulic cylinder that I had laying around which simply pinned to the tractor where the fixed link was. I then purchased the required length hydraulic hoses and I'm quite satisfied with the set up.

jmc · Feb 11, 2014

About ten years ago, I ordered a Grand L 4330 with the Kubota 3 rear valves and Kubota factory T n T, which turned out to be Gannon. The Kubota valves are great but I didn't like the Gannon setup so my dealer took it back and I ordered a set from another company, Integration Engineering, (who may have eventually supplied Carter and Carter? Hope someone here knows). Anyway, below are links to my experience:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/43368-tnt-kubotas-vs-integration-engineering.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/43370-tnt-kubo-atas-vs-integration.html

As an update, I now think that there is one minor disadvantage in piloted check valves in that the minimum pressure to actuate the cylinders is whatever the pilot pressure is set to- 500 psi in my case. So if I want to just tweet the tilt of my back blade, I get a 500 psi surge into the cylinder, which moves the blade too much, unless I just barely and slowly crack the valve. One of these days I may try putting flow restrictors inline.

Fallon · Feb 18, 2014

My Fit-Rite TNT kit (including the valves) has noticeable droop after a little over a day. Not much, but noticeable. However my loader beat my back blade to the ground from 1.5' over a week or so.

The flexibility of TNT is so worth it. I'd be happy with twice the leakage.