Any tips for 1 man implement hook-up?

[Soundguy]

This is one of those problems that will solve itself with practice.

Try this.. always drop your implement on flat ground, also.. the next few times you do it, get yourself a can of that ground marking spray paint , and mark a line along the outside of your rear tires so you can back up straight, then mark a line right behind your fronts.. this gives you an exact line to stop at and line up to so you will be in a perfect spot to re-hitch your implement... when done.. drop it inthe same order so you will be ready the next time.

after doing this a couple times you will instinctively know how to line up by looking back over your shoulder.

keep a 2/4 handy where you store your implements.. even a 500-600# implement can be scootched an inch or two either way with an 8' timber as a lever with realitive ease. a mallet or extra drawbar laid over to the side can also be used to tap the draft links onto implement pins.

soundguy

I am a new member, and new to tractors.

I seem to struggle when hooking up implements to my Ford 3230, since the draft links are free floating, and the spacing is not fixed.

For example, when hooking up my disc, which has clevis hitches, I find myself climbing on and off the tractor several times to align the draft links to the hitches. I may be an Ignoramous (coined by Cracker Barrel), but I welcome any advice to making this process easier.

 

[n8wrl]

I too struggle with the heavier implements outside. But the one that USED to be the hardest is now the easiest - my post-hole digger. It hangs by a chain from the ceiling and is easy to swing around now. All I have to do is get close and hookup is minutes.

 

[Steve C]

I too struggle with the heavier implements outside. But the one that USED to be the hardest is now the easiest - my post-hole digger. It hangs by a chain from the ceiling and is easy to swing around now. All I have to do is get close and hookup is minutes.

I agree. My PHD was a real hand full. This is my solution. I store it standing against a post. The pin that attaches it to the lift arm serves as a safety just in case the nylon strap rots or breaks. I just mount the lift arm on the tractor, back up to the PHD, pull the pin out of the wood bracket and slide it into place.

 

[Opti-Mist]

Typical of a tractor 3-point is that the left lower link is the least adjustable and should therefore be attached first. Next is the right lower link which is adjusted with the leveling box or a threaded sleeve like the top link. Finally the top link which is the most flexible. This approach has served me well for more years than I'd like to admit.

 

[jenkinsph]

Same here, I use Pat's easy change system as well. I used to really dread having to change implements since as others have said sometimes you got lucky and it only took 10 min. and other times 20 min or more. Now it is a lot better but if someone ever invents a system where you can just back up and it connects without having to get off the seat to attach the PTO they will get rich..It could be done...they would just have to incorporate a system for the shaft to couple...

Brin, look at this iMatch Quick-Hitch and iMatch AutoHitch : iMatch

 

[Diamondpilot]

I will give my nod to the HF quick hitch. I bought one on sale for like $50 and its been great.

Another thing to do is if you have a concrete area to store them on is make dollys for everything. We make them out of cheap caster wheels and 2x4's. For example for a 5' Bush Hog get 2 8' 2x4's and 4 casters. Cut the 2x4's the same width as the implement plus a few inches. So in this case maybe 66". Now attach the remainder of the 2x4 to make a rectangle then put on the casters. You will end up with a rectangle 66"x30". Set the Bush Hog on it when down and detach then push it off to the side of the barn until the next time to use. I have made many of them and they usually run about $12 each with some HF $2.50 casters and some lumber and screws I have laying around my shop.

Only picture I have is the one I made for my snow plow. I made it out of steel but gives you a idea. This one cost me under $8 because I had everything but the casters laying around.


Chris

 

[Gary Fowler]

Has any one attempted to replace there lift arms with telescopic ones. Several of the compact tractor makers offer them and there must be some that will interchange with other brands. I have thought of doing this, but never seem to have the time to go measure and compare OR PRICE them at a dealer. Everyone brand I have seen are similar and may require just a hole drilled to match you unit.

 

[jenkinsph]

Gary,
I have done it before and it isn't rocket science. As an example if you order a new Deere as I did this summer and install the options yourself you get the tractor with standard lift arms. In a separate package you get the telescopic lift arms then swap them out. The same thing is true if you order the top and tilt kit I think, so you wind up with an extra set of standard arms and hitch components.


Steve

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Has any one attempted to replace there lift arms with telescopic ones. Several of the compact tractor makers offer them and there must be some that will interchange with other brands. I have thought of doing this, but never seem to have the time to go measure and compare OR PRICE them at a dealer. Everyone brand I have seen are similar and may require just a hole drilled to match you unit.

The 3 pt. kit I got for my grey market Iseki tractor had two adjustable lift links. When I bought the Massey, I switched 3 pt. kits with the Iseki before I traded it off. In my opinion the dual adjustable lift links are the way to go.

Here are my tricks for hitching implements:
1) Keep the tractor and implement on level ground.
2) Leave the park brake off when hitching an implement so the tractor will roll forward or back a little when needed.
3) Put a dab of grease on the hitch pins occasionally (this makes a surprisingly big difference).
4) When I really mess up the approach and the implement is not lined up right, I will sometimes attach one of the lower links and the top link so that I can lift one side of the implement with the 3 pt. and make it easier to maneuver.

Granted, My tractor is pretty small, and my implements are even smaller, but 10 minutes is a long time to spend hitching an implement.

 

[savageactor7]

mburke121 sometimes I use a spud bar to carefully nudge attachments into position. I use to strong arm everything but now regard leverage as my best friend. It's not quite 6' long...very handy pioneer tool around the farm.

When you absolutely positively have to move a 500lb item 1" or 1 foot...time for Mr spud bar.

 

[TrippleT]

I have used Carter's EZ hitches for several years now and I really like them. They make things so much easier. At least for me.
Welcome to CARTER AND SON'S TOOL AND DIE

 

[FLHayman]

I love the telescoping arms and rear lift control on my Kioti DK65, it does make it too easy. But mostly, it's pulling drawbar implements, and I'm hooking up my older Ford tractors to 3pt equipment. I agree with all the advice I've read here, but would add that if your first alignment isn't perfect, you still just lower the 3pt ball that's nearest to a pin. I use a bungee cord between the arms if I need to keep them close together, lower the arms down on top of the pins before getting off the tractor. Turn off tractor, put lift in float detente, (or down, with tractor off), push or pull the ball end that best aligns with a pin to the outside and then push it on the pin before the arms go down too far. In most cases, both arms have to be pushed to the outside before they will start to lower down. Then you can use the lift arm adjusting crank to help you line up the other ball height. I just count the number of turns I've displaced it, then return it to where it was after both sides are hooked up.

I have another tractor that I bought used with the ez change system, but had to take it off since the weight of a 9 foot disc mower was too much extra torque with the added length in my mind. Also, not all my implements are standard width.

When you detach any 3pt implement that you can't lift easily with your arms, make sure to put it up on some blocks or something if it's not resting on ground when you set down the lift arms. Otherwise, you'll have to jack it up, or pry it up to get reconnected later.

If one ball goes on, but not the other, because of the ball link being too far forward or back, just get on the tractor and gently pull or push a bit to line it up, same with using the lift to help you align it. After the bottom pins are on, adjust the top link to meet the hole on the implement, knowing that you will have to put it to the correct length for your job after it's hooked up. Adjusting the top link is easiest when the load is just being set down and is taken off the center link. Watch the linkage as you take weight off of it, and shut down when it starts to show relief of pressure on the top link, then adjust the top link. Grease on the threads makes this a lot easier, too.

As Soundguy said, practice will make this easy and automatic. But there are still times where I wish I had a caddy for that awkward disc cutter hookup. Lot cheaper to buy adjustable, telescoping 3pt arms, though, and I'm looking at that for all my old tractors. Got a price of about $600 for each set of cat II from Kioti, hoping to find them for cheaper.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Lot cheaper to buy adjustable, telescoping 3pt arms, though, and I'm looking at that for all my old tractors. Got a price of about $600 for each set of cat II from Kioti, hoping to find them for cheaper.

Please let us know if you find a place to get them reasonable, I could not and have given up.

 

[patrick_g]

Apparently some users/posters are blissfully unaware of the differences between Pat's easy change and say one from HF or TSC that doesn't accomodate varying widths well or at all.

Pat's is the best I have seen so far.

Pat (but not THAT Pat)

 

[ayelvington]

I use the Harbor Freight quick-hitch with a lot of success. The only stuff that I can't use it with are inexpensive implements from China that don't provide enough clearance for the top hook. The HF hitch is identical to brand name QHs for a fraction of the cost. I'm not a big guy, so it's a real time and $%^*& saver.

 

[Soundguy]

I think in the end.. practice will make perfect.

I'm not a big guy either.. 5'6" / 150#.. I've found it's just way easier to back up correctly to my 3000# mower than try to scootch it .. etc..

soundguy

 

[jenkinsph]

Having read through this entire thread and read the helpful tips like pvc pipe rollers, tires used to rock the implement, pinch bars to pry with brought back alot of memories from the old days ( that used kill and maim people).

Today with new hydro tractors, power steering, quick hitch adaptors, telescopic links and top n tilt hitches all trump these older methods. If for no other reason these hitches such as the I Match that I use are safer, no one needs to be between the tractor and a heavy implement. For most of us the quick hitches are cheaper, that is if your time is worth anything, I know that if I can hookup a 6' rotary cutter in a minute or so as opposed to having to get off and try to wiggle and jockey the tractor or mower around that long term I am way ahead.

The downside to these quick hitches is you need to fit the implements and hitches together to make them work. As long as you know what to look for it is easy to find implements that are either compatible or easily made compatible. If you take a little time and get them modified it is a breeze to change implements going forward.

 

[Sackett2]

I use Pat's and C&C hyd top link- easy enough to do alone now.

 

[Deerlope]

Only for the seruoisly minded wanting a quick hitch www.deltahook.com

 

[lakngulf]

I thoroughly enjoyed this discussion, and appreciate the ideas. I grew up on a beef cattle farm and struggled with 3pt attachments as a kid and teenager. I know your pain, especially with older equipment. Now 30 years later I own my first tractor and implements. I have been apprehensive about changing out equipment, I know it is not a simple task, alignment and experience are the keys. As I change out equipment I will remember these techniques.

I do have one question. My Kioti CK30 has the telescoping arms. What is the process for that method to help?