Any tips for 1 man implement hook-up?

[Soundguy]

This is one of those problems that will solve itself with practice.

Try this.. always drop your implement on flat ground, also.. the next few times you do it, get yourself a can of that ground marking spray paint , and mark a line along the outside of your rear tires so you can back up straight, then mark a line right behind your fronts.. this gives you an exact line to stop at and line up to so you will be in a perfect spot to re-hitch your implement... when done.. drop it inthe same order so you will be ready the next time.

after doing this a couple times you will instinctively know how to line up by looking back over your shoulder.

keep a 2/4 handy where you store your implements.. even a 500-600# implement can be scootched an inch or two either way with an 8' timber as a lever with realitive ease. a mallet or extra drawbar laid over to the side can also be used to tap the draft links onto implement pins.

soundguy

I am a new member, and new to tractors.

I seem to struggle when hooking up implements to my Ford 3230, since the draft links are free floating, and the spacing is not fixed.

For example, when hooking up my disc, which has clevis hitches, I find myself climbing on and off the tractor several times to align the draft links to the hitches. I may be an Ignoramous (coined by Cracker Barrel), but I welcome any advice to making this process easier.

 

[n8wrl]

I too struggle with the heavier implements outside. But the one that USED to be the hardest is now the easiest - my post-hole digger. It hangs by a chain from the ceiling and is easy to swing around now. All I have to do is get close and hookup is minutes.

 

[Steve C]

I too struggle with the heavier implements outside. But the one that USED to be the hardest is now the easiest - my post-hole digger. It hangs by a chain from the ceiling and is easy to swing around now. All I have to do is get close and hookup is minutes.

I agree. My PHD was a real hand full. This is my solution. I store it standing against a post. The pin that attaches it to the lift arm serves as a safety just in case the nylon strap rots or breaks. I just mount the lift arm on the tractor, back up to the PHD, pull the pin out of the wood bracket and slide it into place.

 

[Opti-Mist]

Typical of a tractor 3-point is that the left lower link is the least adjustable and should therefore be attached first. Next is the right lower link which is adjusted with the leveling box or a threaded sleeve like the top link. Finally the top link which is the most flexible. This approach has served me well for more years than I'd like to admit.

 

[jenkinsph]

Same here, I use Pat's easy change system as well. I used to really dread having to change implements since as others have said sometimes you got lucky and it only took 10 min. and other times 20 min or more. Now it is a lot better but if someone ever invents a system where you can just back up and it connects without having to get off the seat to attach the PTO they will get rich..It could be done...they would just have to incorporate a system for the shaft to couple...

Brin, look at this iMatch Quick-Hitch and iMatch AutoHitch : iMatch

 

[Diamondpilot]

I will give my nod to the HF quick hitch. I bought one on sale for like $50 and its been great.

Another thing to do is if you have a concrete area to store them on is make dollys for everything. We make them out of cheap caster wheels and 2x4's. For example for a 5' Bush Hog get 2 8' 2x4's and 4 casters. Cut the 2x4's the same width as the implement plus a few inches. So in this case maybe 66". Now attach the remainder of the 2x4 to make a rectangle then put on the casters. You will end up with a rectangle 66"x30". Set the Bush Hog on it when down and detach then push it off to the side of the barn until the next time to use. I have made many of them and they usually run about $12 each with some HF $2.50 casters and some lumber and screws I have laying around my shop.

Only picture I have is the one I made for my snow plow. I made it out of steel but gives you a idea. This one cost me under $8 because I had everything but the casters laying around.


Chris

 

[Gary Fowler]

Has any one attempted to replace there lift arms with telescopic ones. Several of the compact tractor makers offer them and there must be some that will interchange with other brands. I have thought of doing this, but never seem to have the time to go measure and compare OR PRICE them at a dealer. Everyone brand I have seen are similar and may require just a hole drilled to match you unit.

 

[jenkinsph]

Gary,
I have done it before and it isn't rocket science. As an example if you order a new Deere as I did this summer and install the options yourself you get the tractor with standard lift arms. In a separate package you get the telescopic lift arms then swap them out. The same thing is true if you order the top and tilt kit I think, so you wind up with an extra set of standard arms and hitch components.


Steve

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Has any one attempted to replace there lift arms with telescopic ones. Several of the compact tractor makers offer them and there must be some that will interchange with other brands. I have thought of doing this, but never seem to have the time to go measure and compare OR PRICE them at a dealer. Everyone brand I have seen are similar and may require just a hole drilled to match you unit.

The 3 pt. kit I got for my grey market Iseki tractor had two adjustable lift links. When I bought the Massey, I switched 3 pt. kits with the Iseki before I traded it off. In my opinion the dual adjustable lift links are the way to go.

Here are my tricks for hitching implements:
1) Keep the tractor and implement on level ground.
2) Leave the park brake off when hitching an implement so the tractor will roll forward or back a little when needed.
3) Put a dab of grease on the hitch pins occasionally (this makes a surprisingly big difference).
4) When I really mess up the approach and the implement is not lined up right, I will sometimes attach one of the lower links and the top link so that I can lift one side of the implement with the 3 pt. and make it easier to maneuver.

Granted, My tractor is pretty small, and my implements are even smaller, but 10 minutes is a long time to spend hitching an implement.

 

[savageactor7]

mburke121 sometimes I use a spud bar to carefully nudge attachments into position. I use to strong arm everything but now regard leverage as my best friend. It's not quite 6' long...very handy pioneer tool around the farm.

When you absolutely positively have to move a 500lb item 1" or 1 foot...time for Mr spud bar.