Any tricks to find an underground water leak?

[clemsonfor]

No hints, but my experience with a leak. Several years ago we had rural property with water provided by a rural water association, which is a government welfare program. We owned the property when the system was first installed, so we got one of the initial connections. I ran a line from the meter to our proposed house site. That was about 300'. I used flexible black plastic pipe in 100' coils. I forget the name of the plastic. This stuff was later recalled and there were lots of lawsuits.

We were visiting the property about once a month. Between visits a leak developed. The line split in the middle of a section. The split was about 1' long. The leak soon created a mini-grand canyon. There was no problem finding the leak. The water association discovered the leak after a couple of weeks. They cut off the water at the meter. They had mercy on me and only charged for 40,000 gallons on the next bill.

I repaired the leak and after that I turned off the water at the meter after every visit. We never did build a house there.

Polybutelain maybe? This was the grey stuff with the copper clamps that they put In houses and trailers and had a class action law suit against it. I think that may be what the blk plastic is as well, just connected different as well.

 

[clemsonfor]

I have used the black plastic coiled pipe in the past, but is it still available? there have been many lawsuits involving it. Do you have another product in mind?

Dave

bought some a few years ago at lowes to replace a leaky line under my house. Yes you can still buy it, I saw it last time I was in that section of lowes. I would not use it in my house or walls, but in the crawl or underground to my house I have no trouble with it.

 

[Deere Dude]

Well I sure hope not to replace the whole thing! The existing pipe is only 1" so I don't think running new pipe in it is a viable option. I'll start where the "T's" to the lateral runs are, I think I know there locations, and try to isolate it to a section. Gate valves would at least let me wait until dryer weather if it is on one of the lateral runs. If it is on the primary run I'll be playing in the mud. If anyone wants to come help I'll buy the refreshments and we have a washer and dryer for post project maintenance. :thumbsup:

Thanks all, I am off for the weekend and will check in tomorrow.

MarkV

How deep is your water line. I was going to plant a Christmas tree for my BIL one time when we were visiting in Georgia and I shoved the shovel in the ground and the first push I broke his 1" pvc from the street. It was the thinnest stuff I ever saw and we had a heck of a time to fix it. If it is shallow like a foot or so you might get lucky, but I would consider if it was shallow to replace the whole thing with coiled pex or equivalent.

 

[Pops15]

I'm surprised to read that they used glued joint PVC for water lines. I grew up and worked around construction my whole life. That's a new one on me. I'd replace the whole 800'. Here's why....PVC really became popular for drains in housing in the late 1960's to early 70's. I primarily do residential remodeling. I've seen multiple PVC glue joint failures on the older installations. Some of those were only 30 years old. And those are drains in houses where there's no pressure involved and no freezing of the ground.
Do yourself a favor and get a 1000' roll of at least 1" pipe rated for buried water service.

I think ABS is what the class action suits were over.

 

[stuckmotor]

FARM SHOW - Simple "Detector" Finds Underground Leaks

 

[JD 4520]

I have neighbors that have 2,500 foot, sch 40 PVC water lines in 20 foot glued sections. I have seen more than once they have problems over the years. Seems kind of crazy.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I would disagree...if you replace it purchase a high quality coiled plastic pipe Scd 7 in as long of coils as possible.

I agree with your disagreement. PVC pipe is a bad option. It breaks! - esp from point stress.

,,,OP, Ultimately you should go with 1 or 1-1/4 inch poly coilpipe. Currently, to get by, see if you can find availability of a 1000' coil of 1/2" and run it inside as posited earlier. Assuming your PVC is not crushed in some way this will be a cheap quick fix, considering. You will not be able to draw water fast, but you will have it trouble free til circumstances allow complete replacement.
larry

 

[JD 4520]

I agree with your disagreement. PVC pipe is a bad option. It breaks! - esp from point stress.

,,,OP, Ultimately you should go with 1 or 1-1/4 inch poly coilpipe. Currently, to get by, see if you can find availability of a 1000' coil of 1/2" and run it inside as posited earlier. Assuming your PVC is not crushed in some way this will be a cheap quick fix, considering. You will not be able to draw water fast, but you will have it trouble free til circumstances allow complete replacement.
larry

As far as that idea goes, if its a temporary solution and your not in freezing conditions, run the line over the ground so you at least have water while you try to figure out your long term fix. Otherwise this is a big expense if its not permanent.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Generally the runs are 300 ft but also be 200 depending on brands so maybe suspect joints at 100 ft intervals.
I have found that with the jubilee style clamps that the clamping screws corrode away after about 10 years in our soil and water.
While the clamps are SS the screws are not (otherwise they' strip when tensioned). For that reason municipal codes generally call for compression fittings for entry lines.

You can get fully SS clamps from McMaster Carr. The dont strip however the teeth on the band pull if you ham fist. The secret is to oil the clamp, tighten only firm and move on. Come back in a few minutes and the screw will go another 1/16 turn easy. Repeat. [The black poly settles into the fitting grooves.]
larry

 

[clemsonfor]

I agree with your disagreement. PVC pipe is a bad option. It breaks! - esp from point stress.

,,,OP, Ultimately you should go with 1 or 1-1/4 inch poly coilpipe. Currently, to get by, see if you can find availability of a 1000' coil of 1/2" and run it inside as posited earlier. Assuming your PVC is not crushed in some way this will be a cheap quick fix, considering. You will not be able to draw water fast, but you will have it trouble free til circumstances allow complete replacement.
larry

is .5" enough supply to run the house?

I would also use the black roll pipe, your joints will be way less than the quantity of the pvc joints. I would also put in some metal at the joints along with the metal clamps so that if needed you can use a metal detector to find where the joints are in the future without having to guess or dig randomly