ASV RC100 Track not working- any advice?

[lanmanager]

Well, the loose belt seems to have been the battery problem. But the track is still not working.

Somehow the drive motor is not turning. It acts like there is something stuck (like a stick) in the track system keeping it from working. There was a loose jam nut on a 90 fitting for this track coming from the pump but it wasn't leaking. I tightend it up and looked for any broken electrical connections and cannot find anything in the track.

One pump seems to control both tracks so I don't think it's the pump.

So maybe it's the track drive motor itself, or broken bearings in the bogies that have caused it to freeze up?

I'm having this problem with my 2810. Did the drive motor fix this problem? Did the tandem pump need re-building too?

 

[tuckinlugz]

replaced the drive motor with a used one and it's work now 25 hrs or so. Hydraulic man said to replace the pump too. But I talked to other people that just changed the drive motor and it works fine. I plan on changing the filters and fluid again soon.

 

[lanmanager]

replaced the drive motor with a used one and it's work now 25 hrs or so. Hydraulic man said to replace the pump too. But I talked to other people that just changed the drive motor and it works fine. I plan on changing the filters and fluid again soon.

Thanks. By any chance did you disassemble the motor to see if you could fix it?

 

[lanmanager]

Well I got the 2810 left side apart. The drive motor valve plate looked worn but the rest looked OK but I replaced it with a new one anyway. $720 later - started to mount the new one but thought I'd check the planetary first. I't seemed to turn a little rough so I checked the oil - NOTHING.:shocked::shocked::shocked:. So I disassembled THAT! The first tapered roller bearing came out in about 30 pieces. Followed by some powder that looked like coal and metal bits ground up. This was supposed to be 90w oil mind you. I can only postulate that the previous owner had not checked nor changed that oil in a long time. I swear it ran fine when he delivered it last month and I got about 6 trouble/noise free hours out of it.. Amazingly, nothing expensive seems damaged in the planetary! Just bearings and thrust washers. I'll keep posting as I tear into this thing more, but I don't look forward to pulling off that other track to go through the right side now....

GUYS - CHECK YOUR PLANETARY OIL NOW!

 

[tuckinlugz]

I did have the drive motor tore down. Everyone says that you can't get the parts.... so it's cheaper to just buy a new one. My friend is having the same problem with a case excavator hyd pump. No one can get the parts to fix... so it's find a used one or buy a new one! expensive either way!

 

[lanmanager]

I have found the parts readily available for the motors. The bronze valve plate is about $150 and that is what wears out. A good hydraulic shop can lap/resurface the back of the cylinder block (barrels) if necessary. If the cylinder/pistons are worn, the bores can be sleeved. But an entire new rotating assembly is around $500. So $650 for a repair, $750 for new. Take you pick..:confused3:

 

[tuckinlugz]

Are the parts you're talking about for the rc100 or the 2810? I bought a used track drive motor for 1000, they are 2500 for a new one. What are you talking about 750?

 

[lanmanager]

The 2810 I have uses an Eaton 74318-dbd motor. Very common actually. It retails at ASV for $2500. The counter price from a hydraulic supply place was $720. $2500 for a new hydraulic motor would be outrageous. There are guys out there that can lap the valve plates, piston shoes and cylinder blocks for a couple hundred bucks. PM me and I'll give you the names of the companies. Don't want to get banned.

 

[Rabhaw]

I was mulching yesterday and started hearing a wierd noise. It sounded kind of like the last time one of my bearings went out. I couldn't see anything wrong when I inspected. So I worked a little more.

Then when I would turn I would hear a popping noise like the lugs were jumping on the track. I got out again to look. The track is not loose, I didn't see any sticks or anything stuck anywhere. So I worked a little more.

The whole left track is now not moving at all. I did notice that after it broke, that the loader arms to longer than usual to respond on the controller.

So I am thinking that maybe:

1. It's a blown hose under the cab. I cannot see any hose damage on the outside.

2. It's an electrical issue.... bad solenoid, joystick, fuse or relay?

3. The pump or drive motor for the track is bad.

Does anyone know if the tracks have individual pumps? Or do they run off the same pump?

I am also having a battery issue that may be involved in this problem.

The battery was dead the other day so I jumped it off. But the alternator never charged. Got the battery and alternator tested and they are both fine. I cleaned the connections at the battery, they looked a little dirty, and put it on the charger (from the rear posts) for a couple of hours. Went to the job and it started up. Worked for 1.5 hrs and turned it off to inspect the undercarriage with the track issue. Tried to turn it back on and the battery is dead again.

So somehow the alternator is not charging the battery. There is a 5 amp fuse, that didn't look blown, and an ALT diode in the fuse box.

When I go back to the site I will check the connections from the battery and everything at the starter. Maybe something is loose there, but it's right next to the turbo so it was too hot to look at yesterday.

And I did wash out the machine last week and maybe something electrical got wet and messed up? THeres a lot of relays in the fuse box, so I am not sure whats going on, and I am scared to call the dealership to find out how much it costs for them to come out....

Any help would be appreciated!