Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
When I read govt reports on homes that are foreclosed, there is a statement concerning the distance above ground to the masonry or siding.
At Home In The Woods
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hankus
Bronze Member
Here's is an interesting read regarding adding brick veneer to existing construction. Some issues apply with regard to weep holes and protection of brick below grade.
http://www.gobrick.com/bia/technotes/TN28A.pdf
Keep up the good work.
Hankus
http://www.gobrick.com/bia/technotes/TN28A.pdf
Keep up the good work.
Hankus
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Obed
Elite Member
OP
Obed
Elite Member
Eyebrows got installed on the front porch today.
The workers originally pulled out new 2x6 boards to cut for the eyebrows. We showed them some scrap wood and asked them to use the scraps for the short boards at the bottom of the eyebrows.
We had the framer tilt the supports under the porch outward so that block and brick can be laid for the porch.
The workers originally pulled out new 2x6 boards to cut for the eyebrows. We showed them some scrap wood and asked them to use the scraps for the short boards at the bottom of the eyebrows.
We had the framer tilt the supports under the porch outward so that block and brick can be laid for the porch.
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Obed
Elite Member
Here's a picture that shows what I was trying to describe here.
You can see the gap left for the brick to go between the porch roof and the house sheathing.
The top of the porch also was just a couple of inches below the living room windows above it befor the porch roof got rebuilt. When looking out the living room windows, the first thing you would see would have been the porch roof. That would have been very distracting. Also, I didn't want rain water splashing from the porch roof onto the windows. So the porch roof got lowered by a foot.
You can see the gap left for the brick to go between the porch roof and the house sheathing.
The top of the porch also was just a couple of inches below the living room windows above it befor the porch roof got rebuilt. When looking out the living room windows, the first thing you would see would have been the porch roof. That would have been very distracting. Also, I didn't want rain water splashing from the porch roof onto the windows. So the porch roof got lowered by a foot.
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Obed
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The drain tile that I installed to go under the spot where the electrical lines will enter the basement wall got messed up by the deluge of rain we got about 3 weeks ago.
The gravel and drain tile got filled with red clay silt. I couldn't access this spot with the backhoe so I had to remove all the gravel by hand. I shoveled the silt filled gravel into the FEL bucket and put it on the driveway.
This area is once again prepped for re-installing the drain tile. I'm waiting until just before the electrical conduit is laid to re-install the drain tile in this spot. It only takes one hard rain and I'll have to do this all over again.
The gravel and drain tile got filled with red clay silt. I couldn't access this spot with the backhoe so I had to remove all the gravel by hand. I shoveled the silt filled gravel into the FEL bucket and put it on the driveway.
This area is once again prepped for re-installing the drain tile. I'm waiting until just before the electrical conduit is laid to re-install the drain tile in this spot. It only takes one hard rain and I'll have to do this all over again.
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Obed
Elite Member
Unexpected Visitors
I finally got back to finishing the prep work for the electrical pedestal. A few weeks ago I dug the first post hole. I had put a board over the empty post hole to minimize rain water from entering the hole and keeping the bottom wet. When I moved the board, I found a toad and a lizard both trapped in the hole. The hole was about 3 feet deep, just a few inches too deep for me to reach in and grab the visitors with my hand. I was able to use a hoe to retrieve the toad. Getting the lizard out was a little more challenging as there was no way to get the lizard to climb onto the hoe. I was able to coax the lizard onto a stick and lift the stick with the lizard attached out of the hole.
I thought this lizard to be pretty cool looking. This variety of lizard is larger than the lizards I'm used to seeing in Tennessee. I have seen several lizards like this one on our property.
I finally got back to finishing the prep work for the electrical pedestal. A few weeks ago I dug the first post hole. I had put a board over the empty post hole to minimize rain water from entering the hole and keeping the bottom wet. When I moved the board, I found a toad and a lizard both trapped in the hole. The hole was about 3 feet deep, just a few inches too deep for me to reach in and grab the visitors with my hand. I was able to use a hoe to retrieve the toad. Getting the lizard out was a little more challenging as there was no way to get the lizard to climb onto the hoe. I was able to coax the lizard onto a stick and lift the stick with the lizard attached out of the hole.
I thought this lizard to be pretty cool looking. This variety of lizard is larger than the lizards I'm used to seeing in Tennessee. I have seen several lizards like this one on our property.
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Obed
Elite Member
Pedestal Posts
I dug the second post hole by hand about 3 ft deep and 12" in diameter. I had an audience while I dug. I put 6" gravel in the bottom of the hole, tamped in two eighty pound bags of QuickCrete in the hole and added some water periodically. I then filled the rest of the hole with dirt and tamped it in. The wife helped hold the posts level while I applied the QuickCrete and dirt.
The posts are 4 feet O.C., the size needed for the pedestal. You can see the"V" shaped trench. Conduit will run from the transformer to the pedestal, then from the pedestal to the house.
I dug the second post hole by hand about 3 ft deep and 12" in diameter. I had an audience while I dug. I put 6" gravel in the bottom of the hole, tamped in two eighty pound bags of QuickCrete in the hole and added some water periodically. I then filled the rest of the hole with dirt and tamped it in. The wife helped hold the posts level while I applied the QuickCrete and dirt.
The posts are 4 feet O.C., the size needed for the pedestal. You can see the"V" shaped trench. Conduit will run from the transformer to the pedestal, then from the pedestal to the house.
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Obed
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Kitchen Layout Problem
The framing crew framed the kitchen pantry and the wall for the bar between the kitchen and the eating area.
Here's a view from the living room.
When we saw how close the end of the bar would be to the pantry, it was obvious that the walkway between the two into the kitchen was way to small. We don't want a congestion point here as people try to enter the cooking area. This walkway is less than 3 feet wide. After much fretting, my wife redesigned the bar and associated cabinetry in a way that would provide a 4 foot wide opening into the kitchen. Unfortunately, to do so, the wife had to kill the 45 degree bar top. I'm personally not exited by 45 degree walls but that was something the wife really loved. The bar will now have a 90 degree turn instead of two 45 degree turns.
The framer will have to come out and build the new bar wall. That should be the last of the interior framing work.
The framing crew framed the kitchen pantry and the wall for the bar between the kitchen and the eating area.
Here's a view from the living room.
When we saw how close the end of the bar would be to the pantry, it was obvious that the walkway between the two into the kitchen was way to small. We don't want a congestion point here as people try to enter the cooking area. This walkway is less than 3 feet wide. After much fretting, my wife redesigned the bar and associated cabinetry in a way that would provide a 4 foot wide opening into the kitchen. Unfortunately, to do so, the wife had to kill the 45 degree bar top. I'm personally not exited by 45 degree walls but that was something the wife really loved. The bar will now have a 90 degree turn instead of two 45 degree turns.
The framer will have to come out and build the new bar wall. That should be the last of the interior framing work.
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eepete
Platinum Member
We had a similar half wall in our kitchen. One thing we did was to take a few of the 2x4's that's part of the wall and take them through the subfloor to the trusses below. Had to use some 2x6 between 2 trusses to get it all to line up. The win here is that the wall is a lot more stable. If nothing else, I'd try to get the dead end of the wall since this is something that will get run into. That way, both ends of you're 90 degree mini wall are stout attachment points.
At a minimum think about bolting the wall to the sub floor in 2 or three spots instead of just nailing it. Put a 2x6 on the other side making a "subfloor sandwich" so it not relying solely on the strength of the aventech subfloor. If the wall will have an eat in area extending out from it, this is even more important. Without firm attachment, you are relying on your cabinets to hold the wall in place and keep it from flexing. This is yet another perfect homeowner job. The framer does what they do, you come in later and beef it up a bit.
Finally, if there is any way you can talk the framer into putting a blob of glue (like the Gorilla Glue ?) on the vertical 2x4's, between the glue and then you bolt through you'll be good to go. If you make sure the glues on site, should not be a big extra for the framer to do. Seems like extra charges _really_ get extra if it's something the tradesman does not normally do...
Pete
At a minimum think about bolting the wall to the sub floor in 2 or three spots instead of just nailing it. Put a 2x6 on the other side making a "subfloor sandwich" so it not relying solely on the strength of the aventech subfloor. If the wall will have an eat in area extending out from it, this is even more important. Without firm attachment, you are relying on your cabinets to hold the wall in place and keep it from flexing. This is yet another perfect homeowner job. The framer does what they do, you come in later and beef it up a bit.
Finally, if there is any way you can talk the framer into putting a blob of glue (like the Gorilla Glue ?) on the vertical 2x4's, between the glue and then you bolt through you'll be good to go. If you make sure the glues on site, should not be a big extra for the framer to do. Seems like extra charges _really_ get extra if it's something the tradesman does not normally do...
Pete
