At Home In The Woods

   / At Home In The Woods #1,291  
That is very true. Never know when you might want lighting, driveway alarm, electric gate or such. It is cheap to do now and expensive later.

MarkV

I third that, can even just put it twelve inches down so you don't have to go looking for it, but no better time to do it.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,292  
I gotta say I have never seen it take 6+ months to get this far along on a house :confused:

You must be getting tired of digging holes to fill them back in.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,293  
I gotta say I have never seen it take 6+ months to get this far along on a house :confused:

You must be getting tired of digging holes to fill them back in.
Very true!
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,294  
while that trench is open that crosses your driveway now is your chance to add one more piece of say 2 inch PVC so if in the future you want to run any wires to the other side of your driveway you will have a pipe in place.
We ran a 1 inch PVC for the phone line. I'm now wishing I had run a 2 inch conduit.

Obed
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,295  
We spent long days Saturday and Sunday filling in the electrical trench. There were many large rocks in the backfill. If any of these rocks were directly dumped on top of the conduit, we would be at risk of having breaking the conduit during the backfilling and settling. Thus, we had to backfill much of the trench by hand so we could make sure that soft dirt without rocks covered the conduit first. So we covered the electrical conduit with a foot of soft dirt, then laid a 1 inch conduit for the phone line in the trench.

My trench had some humps and dips in it because of large rocks that I was unwilling to dig out. When the conduit was laid, there were some spots where the conduit was 2 or 3 inches above the trench bottom due to the uneven depths. The electric company inspector told us we needed to either tamp dirt under the conduit or put gravel under the conduit so the conduit would not pull apart due to the dips in the trench bottom.
 

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   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,296  
We worked on covering up the area where the conduit enters the basement wall. If you remember, there is a drain tile below where the conduit enters the wall. I used some hydraulic cement to fill the gap between the conduit the holes through the basement wall. The wife installed the styrofoam and put some window flashing above the conduit to help prevent water from entering the basement. We covered the gravel with landscape fabric. When I started putting dirt over the fabric, it started raining so I had to stop. We covered the area with scrap house wrap and sheathing to protect the area until I can finish filling in the area.
 

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   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#1,297  
My wife didn't like how the hall bath fan was installed.

attachment.php

See how the duct work snakes around. Each 90 degree turn is equivalent to adding 15 ft of length to the duct work in terms of inhibiting air flow and movement of moisture through the ducting. This short run has 4 90 degree turns. That reduces the efficiency of the fan equal to adding an additional 60feet of ductingf! So the wife re-installed the fan. I cut and installed the blocking and installed one of the duct hangers that my wife had a tough time reaching.

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Here's the result of my wife's efforts.
 

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   / At Home In The Woods #1,298  
Nice job on straightening out the duct work, but why didn't you just replace it with flex line? It's insulated and you can bend it to fit anywhere, or go as wide and gradual as you have the space for in your turns.

Eddie
 
   / At Home In The Woods #1,300  
Fan looks a lot better, amazing what 'solutions' people who don't care will come up with. Not only will the first way be inefficient but each 90 costs a few bucks too.

I like the hard line when possible, it stays cleaner over the years and will hold up to construction hazards better.
 

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