B2650 ROPS light mounting bracket?

[atitus74]

Here is the part information for the kubota oem mount that they use for the hazard lamp. This is thing is beefy, perhaps overkill but whatever. They have separate part numbers for the pieces that make up the assembly. Here goes:

The backing plate: K2581-96270
The u-bolt: K3181-62243
The nut that holds the u-bolt on: 02751-50080

Here is a pic of the hazard lamp mount.

 

[Rock Crawler]

I went to Tractor Supply and got the square U-Bolts that fit the ROPS bar, I cut out and drilled my own back strap similar to what you see in the post above showing the Kubota ones, then I made a bracket to attach to that U-Bolt that would fit my 3 NiLight LED cubes per side. This way, I hit my switch and get a 360ｰ halo of light. I have spots in front, spots facing rear and floods on the sides.

The only 2 negatives I have found is that:
1) I can easily rip the lights from the brackets, I can shear the brackets and/or I can tear the aluminum light housing from the nut that the bracket bolt goes in to. All it takes is a solid tree and you can quickly clean the lights off..... I've had to hoopty-rig them back together many times now.

2) You must use medium Loc-Tite thread locker on all of the light fasteners. They will rattle loose and the lights become hanging clankers! After seeing this happen a few times I took an hour and in-bolted every fastener and thread locked them, now at least the lights stay on there until a tree cleans them off!

I have been running NiLight LED cubes on my Jeep and SxS for 5 years now. It is the only brand I buy because they offer exceptional value with a very fair price and unbeatable reliability/durability.
Amazon.com: Nilight 2PCS 18W 126lm Spot Driving Fog Light Off Road Led Lights Bar Mounting Bracket for SUV Boat 4" Jeep Lamp,2 years Warranty: Automotive

 

[JWR]

I used studs that attach with epoxy. They're used in the aircraft industry. You have to sand the paint off where you want the studs, but my ROPS needed touched up anyway, so I repainted it. :: Click Bond, Inc. :: Studs & Standoffs

I can't remember if I got the idea from this site?

That is really an innovative way to deal with these kinds of issues. Thanks for the post (an idea which can probably be used for a lot of other purposes too.)

 

[JWR]

You have hit upon a universal problem that many/most of us came across. RockCrawler, Atticus and SDT all gave you good descriptions/pictures. I will add to the chorus as follows:

I used a square U-bolt (as I think most do) selected to fit the larger dimension of the ROPS frame. No reason to go flimsy, use a heavy one. I replaced the flat cross part of the U-bolt with an aluminum bar maybe 1" wide and 1/4" thick. That is of course very easy to cut with common tools/hack saw, to drill, etc. I made the cross piece about 2 to 3 inches longer than the original cross member and drilled it to fit the U-bolt which makes a very solid mount. Then drill the outer end of the crossbar for the lights. I mounted two lights, one aimed forward and one aimed to the back. This makes a pretty universal approach, can be mounted on the side of the ROPS, the top underside, the top on the top side of the ROPS, etc. Use lock nuts/washers of course. I found the light swivels (made as part of the lights) are harder to keep pointed in the same direction without vibration, branches, etc. changing them.
That was easy. The greater challenge to make a halfway neat job of it is the electrical part. The wires can be weather resistant twin cable of some sort that looks nice with the usual zip ties to secure to the ROPS on the way down. I too went to a direct accessory connector to the battery with a pair of toggle switches just behind the driver's seat and an in-line fuse.
On a different B2150 than the one shown below, I rummaged around until I found a spare circuit with a dangling unused wire near the rear of the tractor. Tested it with a meter to see which switch turned it on, etc.[most likely it was originally for a rear work light...] and used that for the electrical source. Who knows what the circuit was intended for (comes on when the headlights are on) and it blew no fuses so I am happy. That avoided adding any switches or fuses. These were done years ago prior to the better LED lights we see these days.

 

[HCJtractor]

Here is my solution. Sorry, not a great picture. I used rectangular tube, cut on a diagonal, attached with square U bolts. The lights are protected from low limbs, as they just fold back supported by the tubes

 

[JWR]

Here is my solution. Sorry, not a great picture. I used rectangular tube, cut on a diagonal, attached with square U bolts. The lights are protected from low limbs, as they just fold back supported by the tube

As an aside, would you please describe for the audience what that thing is that looks like a 5" wide 40 lb home made machete ?

 

[atitus74]

As an aside, would you please describe for the audience what that thing is that looks like a 5" wide 40 lb home made machete ?

Ha ha ha yeah I was wondering the exact same thing!

 

[HCJtractor]

Attached to the rops? If that’s what you mean, it’s a wooden scabbard for a chainsaw, bolted ( or strapped) to the upright. Of course, there’s no chainsaw in it, but the saw slides in. I was too cheap to buy a pre-made scabbard, so I made one.

 

[HCJtractor]

Here’s a better picture.

 

[Rob 80]

I'm surprised that there is no aftermarket product light kit for tractors. Now i need to find some decent wire any idea on what gauge?

thanks for the help everyone and for the part # atitus74