Backblade upgrade!

[KWentling]

Looks professional Mr. Aquamoose! Guessing you welded on the plate for the rod end of the cylinder to attach?
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To the TBN gallery...
With respect to sizing the cylinder, would a 2.5" cylinder be considered appropriate, or overkill for a 60hp with a heavy 8' EA back blade?

My 10' has 4" cylinders.

 

[LD1]

Before I bought my 584 IH,, I had owned a 404 IH with a loader,,
The loader was "Factory" aftermarket, BUT, someone had DIY adapted a bucket to the loader arms.

The "TILT" for the bucket consisted of a single 2" bore cylinder, mounted at the center of the bucket,,

About every 2 years, I would forget about the weakness caused by the single cylinder,, and I would snag something,,

When the bucket caught something as simple as a small root, while the bucket cutting edge was pointed down,
the pressure that built up in that cylinder easily EXPLODED the hydraulic hose.

I guess the single hose was a cheap safety valve,, BUT,,,
IT was a tremendous shock the first time it threw a mist of hydraulic oil up in the air.

After I blew about 3 hydraulic hoses, I purchased a 3" bore cylinder,, the hose never blew again.

Yup.

Problem with a rear blade is people only think they need a little cylinder because it don't require much force to rotate the blade

The completely overlook the fact that it's a closed system with no relief and that cylinder has to HOLD that position in use.

It's a common mistake I see so many times

 

[Aquamoose]

Yup.

Problem with a rear blade is people only think they need a little cylinder because it don't require much force to rotate the blade

The completely overlook the fact that it's a closed system with no relief and that cylinder has to HOLD that position in use.

It's a common mistake I see so many times

I was aware of it but my options were limited physically while retaining the ability to swing the blade around efficiently by just unhooking one pin. I needed a 10” stroke with the shortest available overall length. Going 12” would give me more leverage but it would force me to position the base deeper into the implement bracing.

Despite knowing the capabilities of hydraulic systems, it’s STILL a good discussion to warn others about blowing out hoses with such high leverages and to build a setup carefully. I learned a thing or two!

 

[npalen]

I was aware of it but my options were limited physically while retaining the ability to swing the blade around efficiently by just unhooking one pin. I needed a 10” stroke with the shortest available overall length. Going 12” would give me more leverage but it would force me to position the base deeper into the implement bracing.

Despite knowing the capabilities of hydraulic systems, it’s STILL a good discussion to warn others about blowing out hoses with such high leverages and to build a setup carefully. I learned a thing or two!

You could mount the cylinder with the pin for the base end offset from center to eliminate having to remove more of the brace. In other works, the cylinder doesn't have to be on the centerline of the implement.

Setting the cylinder base end 30 degrees off center, for example, simply means that the rod end pin needs to be "off center" the same 30 degrees.

That brace (gusset) is there for a reason and removing part of it could result in structural failure.

 

[Aquamoose]

You could mount the cylinder with the pin for the base end offset from center to eliminate having to remove more of the brace. In other works, the cylinder doesn't have to be on the centerline of the implement.

Setting the cylinder base end 30 degrees off center, for example, simply means that the rod end pin needs to be "off center" the same 30 degrees.

That brace (gusset) is there for a reason and removing part of it could result in structural failure.

The logical side of me says: Very true, I’ve never thought of that! I did welded the gusset in places that were skimped over. Now it has more than what I took out. I only took out approx 1.5”. In retrospect, I would have to raise the cylinder body to clear the center bracket and likely would induce extra strain on the pins.

The “face saving” guy in me says: “I have OCD and I just have to have it centered!”

 

[npalen]

The logical side of me says: Very true, I’ve never thought of that! I did welded the gusset in places that were skimped over. Now it has more than what I took out. I only took out approx 1.5”. In retrospect, I would have to raise the cylinder body to clear the center bracket and likely would induce extra strain on the pins.

The “face saving” guy in me says: “I have OCD and I just have to have it centered!”

I understand the OCD thing quite well.

 

[Chilly807]

I may have missed it, but has anyone mentioned a crossover relief valve to prevent over-pressure if you hook the end of the blade? If the pressure in either line exceeds the relief setting it momentarily dumps to the other line, preventing a dangerous situation.
Once the pressure goes back to normal levels, the valve closes again and normal operation resumes

 

[Thunder chicken]

I knew this cylinder was a bit weenie, light duty work, oops, lol.

 

[Buggs67]

I may have missed it, but has anyone mentioned a crossover relief valve to prevent over-pressure ...

I've learned a few thing on this thread.

First I replaced one of my lift arms with a cylinder and utilized the existing lines for my BH to give me adjustable lift arm for blade and BB use. The issue is if the cylinder fully retracts it overpressures and the fitting leaks. Doesn't seem to be a relief valve built into that setup (from Kioti). Should I install a crossover relief valve?

Second, I was unaware of electric diverter valves. If I installed two of these I'd be able to switch between side arm adjustment and top-link adjustment.

I know I could have installed a TnT at the outset but for the price of two hoses and once cylinder I got what I really desired. Now I'm thinking of building on what I have. Any suggestions?

 

[ovrszd]

Second, I was unaware of electric diverter valves. If I installed two of these I'd be able to switch between side arm adjustment and top-link adjustment.

Diverter valves are often used to gain 3rd function on a loader. They are a handy tool. I think I paid $125 for my valve.