Ballast - Any merit in this idea?

[Luke'sScreenName]

I am starting to give up trying to work out the dimensions I should use for my ballast block by looking at the dimensions of the implement side of various quick-hitches on the market. Instead, perhaps I should just use standard CAT-1 dimensions - IF I can find them - and then hope for the best if I ever get a quick-hitch.

Your thoughts?

Ken

This is what I would do in your choice of Cat 1 or Cat 2 dimensions (I picked cat1... and would be ok with 1500lbs of weight). :2cents:

FYI: The critical dimensions are that the spread between the lift arms not be too wide and that the distance between the lift arms and the top link not be too much. Both can be a 1/2inch to even 3/4inch short (maybe more).

 

[kenlip]

Thanks, Luke'sScreenName

FYI: The critical dimensions are that the spread between the lift arms not be too wide and that the distance between the lift arms and the top link not be too much. Both can be a 1/2inch to even 3/4inch short (maybe more).

For CAT-1, what do you think of the dimensions as per the attached Sketchup drawings? Anything you would change?

Ken

 

[WranglerX]

If you are not going to be loaning it out to neighbor and only using it on one tractor, build it to fit your tractor, cat 1/cat 2 tractor does not care....

Dale

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Thanks, Luke'sScreenName



For CAT-1, what do you think of the dimensions as per the attached Sketchup drawings? Anything you would change?

Ken

View attachment 564219View attachment 564220View attachment 564221

These are the two distance I was referencing:


I can't tell dimension 'A' from you sketch.

Have you thought about captured lift pins and/or angle iron for your ballast? I'd be worried thoses flat irons would twist (maybe you just drew it this way for simplicity). But you could easily double them up with two on each side and a pin between them...

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

This is what I mean by captured lift pins...

 

[kenlip]

These are the two distance I was referencing:
View attachment 564259

I can't tell dimension 'A' from you sketch.

It's 27"

Have you thought about captured lift pins and/or angle iron for your ballast? I'd be worried those flat irons would twist (maybe you just drew it this way for simplicity). But you could easily double them up with two on each side and a pin between them...

I considered captured pins. However, I have seen a number of blocks with just the two bars, on TBN, so I assumed the two-bar configuration would work okay. Of course, many of the blocks on TBN are a lot less than 800kg.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

Sorry, I meant dimension B... :ashamed:

I know I have a few well used implements where the lift pins are slightly bent to an upward angle. They take a lot of force. Don't forget you will accidentally back into things too.

You're probably right that it would be fine but it also will be a pain in the butt to fix later. Just something to think about. :2cents: Hopefully, your flatiron is at least 3/8 to 1/4" thick cold rolled....

Your going to have a nice box. If you don't think you'll ever get a QH don't worry too much about the dimensions for it even if I would. .

I'd just encourage you one last time to think about making it multi-purpose by including a box on top to carry small items and/or a cast tube inside to put long handle tools in... Those two things along with the trailer hitch make mine one of the more useful attachments I own.

I've only built 3 of these and only to fit my needs so just my opinions here.

 

[kenlip]

Sorry, I meant dimension B... :ashamed:

Thanks for all the feedback.

From the bottom of the block, the top hole is 23" and the bottom holes are 8". That should leave 15" vertical distance between the level of the top and bottom holes.

I know I have a few well used implements where the lift pins are slightly bent to an upward angle. They take a lot of force. Don't forget you will accidentally back into things too.

I'll definitely look into options to reinforce the plates.

Hopefully, your flatiron is at least 3/8 to 1/4" thick cold rolled....

It is 12mm (0.472" or a tad over 30/64" )

Your going to have a nice box. If you don't think you'll ever get a QH don't worry too much about the dimensions for it even if I would. .

All things being equal, I might as well try to make it QH compatible, although there seems to be quite a lot of variation in QH dimensions. The problem isn't building it to the specs - it is finding out what specs to use.

I'd just encourage you one last time to think about making it multi-purpose by including a box on top to carry small items and/or a cast tube inside to put long handle tools in... Those two things along with the trailer hitch make mine one of the more useful attachments I own.

I will definitely add a box on top once it is built. I'm undecided about the tubes, because I am planning on putting in as many brake rotors as I can, and the tube/s would interfere a lot with them. I can always bolt on a tube or two at a later date.

Ken

 

[aczlan]

I'm undecided about the tubes, because I am planning on putting in as many brake rotors as I can, and the tube/s would interfere a lot with them. I can always bolt on a tube or two at a later date.

Or, line up a stack of the rotors and stuff a tube down the middle of them...

Aaron Z

 

[mike69440]

Re: Ballast - Any merit in this idea? (Here is what i did)

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/327912-custom-3-point-attachment-2-a.html?highlight=

The CW stays on the tractor 90% of the time. Only time it comes off is for PTO work and specialized usage.

It is filled with so much steel bars I have painted the concrete to slow the rust bleed.

If yours is a CAT 2 hitch, you could probably do the same and get at least +450 kg block to fit in a Quick hitch.