Best way to remove the over growth

[rmc]

I just purchased a BX2200 with a FEL. I was told by the BOSS that she would to have some of the brush and growth around the house cleared back an additional 50ft, but do not remove any of the trees. I was planning on using the FEL and push it back, but not sure the best way to accomplish the order. Attached is a picture of the brush and growth that needs to be removed. Any ideas welcome

 

[rmc]

Here is the picture

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

rmc,
I would negoitate to remove some of the smaller unhealthy trees to get a little more room to work. The fall back position on negoitations would be "don't remove any trees". You will need all the help you can get in the negoiation department later. Clean up all the down stuff and any rocks that might play heck with a bush hog, using the front loader and a tow chain. This project should set you up for the bush hog negotiation. If you have kids watch out for that spoked iron wheel, kids will roll it just about anywhere and leave it. Don't ask why I know this.

Also do a search on fire/fires/clearing. Robert N posted some really good information on fire safety around building. If I can find it I will post a link.
Al

 

[MChalkley]

rmc - Did you see the picture of the Brush Brute in my "Goodbye Kubota, Hello EarthForce" thread? If not, check out <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/19-94286-PC270057b.jpg>this link</A>. I don't think they make a Brush Brute that would work with your tractor, but you might be able to make, or have someone make, something that would work similarly - maybe even some sort of tooth bar for your loader bucket. From my initial testing of it, it looks like it's going to be the perfect tool for doing the kind of thing you need to do. If you rip that stuff out by the roots, it won't come back nearly as fast. I've got a couple acres of mostly holly trees that I'm going to use the Brush Brute on next. I've bushhogged them a few times, and every time you cut one down, you end up with six in its place.

 

[Nuru]

Suggest you remove the smaller - "less healthy" trees and then go for it with a brush hog and the front blade.

Nuru

 

[Thomas]

Check for small thorn apple trees,for those pesky little buggers could raise heck w/your tires.

This would be the hard way,but if you have a trimmer w/a blade I would cut the brush than brush hog it,and after brush hogging than get a rear rake to groom.
Far as the trees..if there not dead or you have question about leaving them I would leave them,for once gone they stay gone.

 

[mdbarb]

I have cleared worse areas with my 4 in 1 front end loader by simply grabbing a bunch the rollong it forward, grabbing another bunch and keep rollong it forward. This pulls it out by the roots and I haven't had regrowth in years.

 

[gerard]

That scrub is pretty light and definitely able to be done with a bushhog but I notcied you didn't have one. I wouldn't use your finish mower to do it!! As Mark C said this is a perfect job for a brushbrute but I assume you don't have one of those either. Guess the bottom line is there's several ways to do it, some easier than others but it depends on what type of attachments you have.

 

[TerryinMD]

rmc,

Can't tell what kind of brush/bush/weed you need to remove. However, previous posts have giving you some good starting points. /w3tcompact/icons/clever.gif

1. Remove anything that you consider "obnoxious"
2. Give yourself plenty of room to work. You will be surprised at how is it is to get hung up on something. Murphy's Law applies. /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif
3. You can use your FEL to first smash small brush/bushes. Just drive up to the pesky varmit, lift the FEL, drop it on the varmit, and drive backwards. You break the stems and branches.
4. Watch when you're slashing the brush with hand tools. Try not to leave any sharp stumps. They become brittle over time and can puncture you tires.
5. Worst case scenario. Bring in a contractor with a small backhoe to knock down and dig up any stumps. They are a bear to remove with a FEL.

Good luck to you,
Terry

 

[RPM]

rmc,

How do you plan on maintaining the area once you have cleared it? Are you going to prep it and grass seed it? If so, you'll want to thin the trees out to a decent spacing so you can later mow in a reasonable time (and so the grass has some light to grow by!). You'll also want to use a method that will take out the stumps (however small) so you can do the prep and maintain easier at a later date.

One last thing - after you remove the standing dead-wood, check the trees for dead limbs (widow-makers) before you bump them with the tractor. That's a good way to get a head-ache /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif - you may even consider some safety head-gear.

Patrick

 

[rmc]

MDBARB

will try your method since I only have the FEL and MMM, would not think about purchasing any thing
at this time the BOSS is still get NOT over the BX2200 price tag.

I do plan once the area is some what clear using a rear walk behind tiller and a rake to level it out. Would be
nice if I did have the correct attachments for the bx2200 but one thing at a time. Or at least a few months

thanks

 

[TerryinMD]

rmc,

Another thing you can do is to rent some attachments to help you along. Some implement dealers have rental units and some rental shops have limited implements for the 3pt hitch. Or try your local auctions. You can sometimes get a decent piece of equipment for a nice price.

That way you use it when needed and then return. Once the CFO sees that a rental is about X percent of the cost of purchase and you can use the implement often, you might be able to justify the cost of purchasing one.

Terry

 

[frank_f15]

i would first remove any unhealty trees, but as THOMAS says , be careful of what u remove. then hog it if u can, if using a fel u will find that sometimes attacking form different sides will make it easier, nother words if u have a root that won't come out, try from a different angle. slow and easy!!! amazing what u can clear. i have found that when u are clearing, it don't seem like u are doing much good, but when u look at it a day or two later, u can appreciate how much u cleared.

 

[mrob2012003]

I know shes probably not up for you renting a machine but if it were me I would either rent a heavy duty brush hog for the tractor or rent a skid steer with a forestry mulching attachment. This makes quick work of it and can usually be rented for about 800 a day. Other than that a Fel will take some time but it can be done.

 

[teg]

This is a 7 year old thread, the OP's last post on TBN was about 4 years ago.

 

[kebo]

That's one thing I don't like about the software they use on this forum. Old posts/threads should have the date more readily visible. PLus, they really should be dropped way down the list to the bottom, or else be flagged as an inactive thread....

 

[IslandTractor]

Problem is that people find old threads through searches and don't realize it is an old thread.

 

[LBrown59]

*This is a 7 year old thread, the OP's last post on TBN was about 4 years ago.

* That's ok it's probably all grown back up by now.

 

[SouthernX]

That's one thing I don't like about the software they use on this forum. Old posts/threads should have the date more readily visible. PLus, they really should be dropped way down the list to the bottom, or else be flagged as an inactive thread....

Funny you should mention this as I was thinking just the opposite today. I like the fact that you can search old posts, find some information, and the post a followup for additional discussion. I think being able to resurrect old threads and post is very valuable. Just my $.02 worth.

 

[SouthernX]

Funny you should mention this as I was thinking just the opposite today. I like the fact that you can search old posts, find some information, and the post a followup for additional discussion. I think being able to resurrect old threads and post is very valuable. Just my $.02 worth.

Dang, I guess I can't type or spell...