Removing small dead trees - best way to pull

[Little Red Tractor]

One caution no one else made: Never, NEVER rig up anything to pull from the the three point hitch. That gives a high hook point and can quickly flip your machine over backwards.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Bull doser

Sure ... The task

The solution

No overkill here carry on

 

[TreeDreamer]

I know the stock answer is don't push or pull with the FEL. I saw you were near unanimous about it. Not trying to be a smart alec but I push with all the traction my M7060 can muster in 4WD and with the diff lock engaged trying to get clay into a bucket. It stands up to that. Also have a Danuser Intimidator tree puller (similar to this picture below) and the suggestions on this very forum was that using FEL lift alone was a fraction of what you get when grabbing at chest height and pushing and pulling while lifting. I've done this until out of traction forwards and backwards hundreds of times and the FEL is still intact and although the back tires get light or float on the ground when backing, the tractor has stayed upright. I think this is how it is supposed to be used. So why the advise to never push or pull with the FEL? Caution of course but a ban?

Mark

 

[Rockbadchild]

One caution no one else made: Never, NEVER rig up anything to pull from the the three point hitch. That gives a high hook point and can quickly flip your machine over backwards.

a little exaggeration here... once the front lift up just stop pulling its not rocket sciences, it's not like it will flip without effort or warning... I have tied up trees stump on my 3 point and I never had the front lift (FEL attached), the 3 point hitch is not as solid as the receiver draw bar so depending on the task it can cause some damage or break so I wouldn't recommend it for that reason and yes it be more prone to lift the front, but the 3 point hitch gives a higher pull leverage which can help... but the rim or tire method would be more effective.

 

[Rockbadchild]

I've removed big tree stumps with only a axe, shovel, chain, farmer jack and a bit time. So no special equipment or method is required only rudimentary tools, time and a few drop of sweat.

in my front yard ... result is stump and root ball gone without tire tracks and minimal soil disturbance.

 

[GeneSimm7]

I find it best to dig around the stump with my backhoe.

 

[somanytractors]

I have golf cart trails all through my property. I've removed a lot of small trees and this is what works for me.
Using a to-30
For really small trees, I usually wrap a chian around them and pull them up out of the ground with the loader, roots and all.
Up to about 6" in diameter, I can usually push them over with the loader. Always put the loader up high for pushing. It gives you so much more leverage. For some of the larger ones I have to push and pull them back and forth a couple times before I can push them over. Once it's over if the roots are still holding, use a chain with the loader to pull it up out of the ground. Bigger then 6" Use a chain and snatch them back and forth a few times. I don't know if it's advisable as I often break my tractors so this could damage your tractor although it's never hurt mine, but for snatching, I always wrap the chain under the axles and up over the tranny. This set up costs a little in traction but I'd rather spin when I reach the end of the chain then have the tractor stand up.

 

[Aggie66]

You could fill your bucket for additional front counterweight just to be as safe as possible.

 

[sixdogs]

If you have a bigger tractor and the right soil conditions, I've found I can wrap a chain around the lowest part of the tree, hook to my bucket hooks and "curl" plus lift the bucket to break the tree free of the ground. Then I lift it up and out.

You need to do this when the ground is soggy with water so the task is easier. I don't know how big your trees are but I've ripped out 20 ft tall American Arborvitae--Northern White Cedars--with 90HP.

Another way for less HP is to get or rent a "tree shovel" for your loader (if you have SSQA connection), poke around the roots, wait for rain and then curl it out.

You can also cut the tree off at about four ft and next year push against the strump with your rear tire to pop the stump free.

I've done lots of trees by ripping them out and always figured pulling was too dangerous--- and it is. Plus you have huge hole in the ground that you need to fill. I've used backhoes but it takes forever, makes a mess and leaves a hole.


There are old time methods on the net using a truck tire and a long log for a lever and popping the trees out of the ground. It's old school but is likely how the land was originally cleared and looks pretty easy. That's where I got the idea for curling them out.

 

[NotSoMeanJoeGreene]

Pull with a truck, push at an angle away from the line of the trucks travel with your bucket, This will pull the tree while allowing control of the fall to avoid hitting either vehicle. It also means two people in case of emergency one will be able to call for any required assistance.

 

[terraformer]

Wait until the ground is soft. Sometimes dig down all around the tree.

Or cut them off flush and leave it at that.

 

[Rockbadchild]

Obviously I’d always like to push away so the tree doesn’t fall towards me but I believe I get more power with my L3200 by pulling but not sure if pulling from the back or front is best.

I am not familiar with the tree you are dealing with but pushing a dead tree can be very dangerous if it breaks... if it break at the pushing contact the top end will fall on the apposite direction towards you

 

[Rustic Woodcrafter]

Due to the Louisiana drought this year (still happening), I’ve lost maybe 50 Leyland Cypress trees about 25 years old. I also lost a couple magnolias we planted at the same time which are clearly not coming back.

I’ve pulled the cypress before because after a year of being dead their roots are really weak so this will be my spring task.

The question is what gives me the most pulling power - is it best to pull backwards from the bucket end with a chain, or pull from the back end with a chain on the box blade?

With the box blade I can sometimes push on the tree to lean it one way, then use the chain to pull it out from the stump behind me.

Obviously I’d always like to push away so the tree doesn’t fall towards me but I believe I get more power with my L3200 by pulling but not sure if pulling from the back or front is best.

I learned the hard way that pulling trees can be very dangerous! I was pulling a roughly 7 inch maple with my 9N. I hooked a 20' chain about 18 inches from the base and hooked it to the draw bar. When I looked back, I saw the tree falling toward me and I literally "dove" between the branches which crashed down between the fenders. A few scratches and a life lesson. I also ran a loader and bulldozer clearing a ski area. We simply pushed the trees over with the blade or bucket, let the weight of the tree pull out the stump and then cleaned up with the blade. Cut the tree after you get it out of the dirt.
Rustic Woodcrafter

 

[90cummins]

I leave the stump around 1~2’ high & use the draw bar & chain around stump and while applying up pressure I’ll then slowly rock the tractor back&forth bumping it with the hitch which usually works if tree isn’t too big.
I have a 1720 Ford CUT which has it limits.
90cummins

 

[bordercollie]

and... years ago I was standing a far piece from where a "not small" stump/tree was being pulled up. The chain broke and flew my direction landing less than 10 ft from me.
This drought is terrible and I feel with you. Our drought reducer will come tomorrow hopefully. 15 inches below normal this summer here in c Miss so far. Dead trees and dry ponds are sadly common .

 

[sportscarclinic]

Seems like a box blade mounted on the three point ought to be plenty strong enough, maybe not as strong as the draw bar, but if it's getting down to peak limits of tensile strength, the stump's too big anyway.

AND, it seems a whole lot safer to do a big pull with the box in place to stop the tractor from flipping over backwards. I'd rather risk damaging my box blade than risk rushing my own funeral.

 

[AnotherBueller]

Actually, after reading this I will probably just avoid bolt-on or welded hooks altogether, yank these first with the drawbar, then remount the box blade for pushing. This may also help me make it to my next birthday.

https://ag-safety.extension.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/English-Task-Sheets-Group-6.pdf

I have bent the frame of my box blade by pushing a too big tree trunk. Box blade is designed to pull / push with the bottom edge, NOT the top which was where that big round was touching since I wanted it to roll not skid.

 

[Mad Mac]

Most bang for the buck.
Titan Attachments FEL Tree Puller

Unless you are just in it for the exercise, if you do not have a helper this will allow you to do everything from the seat. Push, pull, pry, lift, dig and then carry it to the burn pile.

Snatch up little stuff too small to put a chain around. Dig out roots on big stuff too big for a chain. Reach in between trees you like to grab the trees that offend. Reach under or over a fence for brush in the fence line. Grab onto fallen logs and drag them backwards. Prune limbs off trees you keep. Pull out grapevines.

It is fun to use and far cheaper than a root grapple or backhoe.

At a thousand dollars it ain't cheap, but once you are done cleaning up your place, others in your neck of the woods probably have the same problem and it should not be difficult to sell it or hire out.

Now you do need to plumb it up to the power beyond to close and open the jaws. But we also have a root grapple and use that function on the FEL anyway. And even though we have a root grapple I am not selling the tree puller. I would like to sell my backhoe, though.

There are a lot of youtube videos to see a tree puller in action.

Good luck with your project. Take it easy and be safe.

 

[sorleski]

I wet the ground around the tree, even live trees, put the tractor in 4wd and low gear and push the tree over.. i can push over 8-10 inch trees with my Kubota L4330 I have the bucket about 5ft off the ground, maybe a little less, it gives good leverage on the root system.. and out it all comes.. Now mind you, my bucket is very heavy duty bucket.. this tractor came with a frame attached backhoe and i am guessing at least 7guage steel on the bucket, maybe even thicker.. I have a thinner buck that I would not try with..

 

[kjack1960]

The reason I asked the question is a I see a lot small tractors with grab hooks on the FEL, either bolt-on or welded. Is it just good marketing spin from the seller or is it really a legit way of pulling? I know shoving into it isn't the way as I just popped the seals on my FEL boom cylinders from doing something stupid causing them both to leak.

The drawbar is probably the only way I haven't tried in 25 years. But it's probably because I use the box blade right away to push away whatever I yank out and that is in the way of the drawbar. I don't really want to leave stumps by just cutting the dead trees so yanking them is my best option. (I wish I had a backhoe but my L3200 is the most powerful tractor I have for this task).

As rigid as a box blade is I could probably weld a hook near the center between the middle tines. That would put me at drawbar height though the chain would go over the top of the blade to the rear for CG balance. I'm on level ground for this and will use a low-and-slow gear so I don't think I'll have to worry about tipping over.

Would I get the most leverage from lifting up and away? Or with my chain wrapped on the base close to the ground?

Nothing wrong with hooks on FEL bucket as long as you use them for lifting within its lift range , I have put them on every tractor I have owned but I would never pull on trees with them but they are pretty handy for other uses and even light pulling . I also put one on both sides of the bucket so I can rig the chain to the center of the bucket so it balances the pull .