Black Smoke followed by sudden death?

[sandman2234]

I guess I could box up a little sunshine and send to you in a care package!!
David from jax

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Gosh darn it all to heck! (or something like that)

I replaced the fuel filter as stated earlier and bled the lines.

I replaced the injector nozzles. They were pretty black and sooty.

Tried to start it... Nothing!

I tore apart the air intake and cleaned it all out. There was a pretty thick build up of grease along the intake elbow of the air intake. I took it off and stuck it in the parts washer with the pump running for a half hour and shined it right up. I sprayed some carb cleaner through the air intake to loosen up any of the greasy build-up that was probably in there too.

Tried to start it... Nothing!

And to top it all off it's finally snowing around here.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I just called a friend who's the diesel mechanic for the school district buses to see if he can test the compression and injection pressure for me.

I gave him the run-down on the signs and symptoms and told him what I'd already done. His guess was injection pump. He can't get over until Wednesday to test the pressure, though. (Christmas time is busy for everyone.)

So... anyone know a good injection pump re-builder? I'm assuming that's going to be the way to go rather than buying a new pump. I'm not even sure I can get a new pump.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I went and bought an injection pump off e-bay. It's guaranteed to work.

My friend and I never caught up with each other this week, so hopefully I can get him to come over tomorrow. I sure hope that it's the pump now that I have one coming.

I bought a bunch of other stuff for this tractor while I was at it. so expect more about all the parts later sometime in this forum.

 

[Soundguy]

Good luck... I hate the shotgun diagnosis approach. hope it works for you.

soundguy

 

[H.D.Tool]

Here are something you can look at or maybe they have been tried and not mentioned. Check the inlet side of the lift pump there is normally a screen that can get plugged. The japanese often thread the screen into tha banjo bolt. Crack line nuts at the injectors a third to half turn and crank engine this should remove air from the lines and fuel should squirt 25 mm or more. If fuel squirts the injection pump is most likely ok. Make sure the fuel shutoff system is in the right position and is working properly if electric make sure you have power to the solenoid. Make sure the engine is cranking fast enough. Check for a blocked muffler. Check valve settings. Some of these small diesels have timing belts.Any idea how many hours are on the engine?

Eric

 

[john_bud]

I went and bought an injection pump off e-bay. It's guaranteed to work.

My friend and I never caught up with each other this week, so hopefully I can get him to come over tomorrow. I sure hope that it's the pump now that I have one coming.

I bought a bunch of other stuff for this tractor while I was at it. so expect more about all the parts later sometime in this forum.

When you remove the pump from the tractor, shut off the fuel from the tank, take off the timing window cover on the pump and the transmission cover. Hand rotate the engine until the timing marks on the flywheel are at 23 degrees BTDC and (AND!!!) the two timing marks in the window on the pump are visible. Hopefully lined up. Then remove / replace the pumps. Take care with the drive shaft in the pump. You don't want to damage the umbrella seals. Timing is 23 degrees. Some older books show 18, but that was changed in 1960 or 61. They run much better at 23.

Take extra pains to bleed the system correctly. Fill the tank with fuel. More fuel pressure helps force the bubbles out. The pump should fill itself pretty quick. The fittings at the injectors should be only hand tight. Loosen them 1/2 turn from hand tight and crank for a minute, throttle at 1/2 to 3/4. Should start to see some fuel dribbling out. Hand tighten all but the farthest fitting. Crank until the fuel is coming is solid squirts (30-60 seconds 120 max). Tighten and repeat on the next one. Don't forget to let the starter cool and have a good charger on the battery. The engine will probably start when you get the 3rd one done. When it does start, tighten the injectors down and your done.

If it doesn't start, don't panic. Wait 30 minutes and repeat the bleed on each injector. There can and often are bubbles that dislodge and set in a line AFTER you've bleed it. Drives ya nut's at times, but that's capillary action for you.

What's the core charge on the pump? I might want a buildable core....

jb

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Still no parts. I thought I would have received the box by now.

I decided that this is getting serious enough; so I found a way to unload the tractor and got it into the garage. With some ratchet straps and a chain I managed to get the dead tractor off the trailer with only a brief pucker moment as it slid backwards on the ice on the trailer bed fully tilted.

The tractor is sitting in the lighted garage now with two kerosene heaters ready to go as soon as I get those parts.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I got my box of parts!

That fuel pump sure looks small to be worth over $1K. I'm glad I only paid a fraction of that. Now I hope it works. I spent my time tonight unpacking the box and inventorying the parts. I just hope the pump is in better shape than the seat or the 3-point lift arms that I bought from the same guy. I'll get around to swapping out the pumps later.

What makes a fuel pump go bad, anyway?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I got my box of parts!

What makes a fuel pump go bad, anyway?

Age, too much use, not enough use, normal wear, dirt in fuel, poor lubricating qualities of modern diesel fuel, ect.

Pick any 1 or a combination of several of the above