Grading Box Blade and Rock Rake (a.k.a. york rake?) not really doing the job. Operator lacking skills?

[joea99]

After a flood we had more rocks than dirt. It took years to sort them out.
We still have giant rock piles.

With the box blade and ripper, you have half the implements you need on your TLB.
The other tool is a rock bucket to pick up the rocks and leave the dirt behind.

Get one the same width as your dirt bucket, but with long rounded tines in front.
Houle and Bradco make the best ones. They are all SSQA, so will fit your B21 TLB.
You may have to shorten the width.
good luck,
rScotty

View attachment 875597View attachment 875598

Something like that had crossed my mind.

My machine has a WR Long 4n1 bucket on the front now which I had considered making a "basket" for.

Thinking that fabricating some sort of grid that fit, more or less, into the bucket but did not interfere with the jaw opening, or moved when opening, allowing the dirt to fall through.

But no SSQA. I've often thought it would be cool to be able to have one, for pallet forks, etc. Is there a kit or info you know of for B21? The loader is a TL421.

 

[joea99]

If you have a commercial saw mill in the area, and if they are willing to sell sawdust and wood chips, I found that a few loads of those over rocky uneven land is a quick way to get a level pad. They decay with time and create soil. But other than that the crusher fines are a good option.

I have a good size pile of white pine chips left from when I hired a crew to take down 3 or 4 BIG pine close to the house and power lines.

At the very least I could use those as a walkway for pushing that sawmill carriage. If my aging body holds up to it that is.

 

[thebonepile]

yes it is the rocks that are causing the problems - you must remove rocks from the top ??" (you can pick depending on final use) then you can smooth -
good luck

 

[joea99]

Something like that had crossed my mind.

My machine has a WR Long 4n1 bucket on the front now which I had considered making a "basket" for.

Thinking that fabricating some sort of grid that fit, more or less, into the bucket but did not interfere with the jaw opening, or moved when opening, allowing the dirt to fall through.

But no SSQA. I've often thought it would be cool to be able to have one, for pallet forks, etc. Is there a kit or info you know of for B21? The loader is a TL421.

Anyone familiar with this outfit?

Kubota TL420 Quick Attach Conversion-Ask Tractor Mike

Converts Kubota TL420, TL421 & B21 Pin-Type Front End Loader to Skid Steer Quick Attach. Weld on bracket. Ask Tractor Mike

asktractormike.com

 

[joea99]

Anyone familiar with this outfit?

Kubota TL420 Quick Attach Conversion-Ask Tractor Mike

Converts Kubota TL420, TL421 & B21 Pin-Type Front End Loader to Skid Steer Quick Attach. Weld on bracket. Ask Tractor Mike

asktractormike.com

I think they are only a "dealer", but seems I have found the outfit that makes them.

 

[cmyoung2]

Something like that had crossed my mind.

My machine has a WR Long 4n1 bucket on the front now which I had considered making a "basket" for.

Thinking that fabricating some sort of grid that fit, more or less, into the bucket but did not interfere with the jaw opening, or moved when opening, allowing the dirt to fall through.

But no SSQA. I've often thought it would be cool to be able to have one, for pallet forks, etc. Is there a kit or info you know of for B21? The loader is a TL421.

My Kubota L3600 had a pin on 4n1 bucket,WR Long, on a Great Bend loader. I ordered a SSQA from WR Long, unpinned the bucket, added the SSQA, picked up a grapple and forks, and after a year finally converted the bucket to SSQA. Glad I did it when I got the tractor, use the forks and grapple a lot, bucket not so much. But with the 4n1 the loader has hydraulics up front for the grapple.. WR Long probably has or can make the parts for your loader and will have the parts to convert you bucket.. At our age, do it sooner than later.

 

[joea99]

My Kubota L3600 had a pin on 4n1 bucket,WR Long, on a Great Bend loader. I ordered a SSQA from WR Long, unpinned the bucket, added the SSQA, picked up a grapple and forks, and after a year finally converted the bucket to SSQA. Glad I did it when I got the tractor, use the forks and grapple a lot, bucket not so much. But with the 4n1 the loader has hydraulics up front for the grapple.. WR Long probably has or can make the parts for your loader and will have the parts to convert you bucket.. At our age, do it sooner than later.

Makes a lot more sense to go the SSQA way. Lots of options from there. Many times I have wanted to have something else on the front end. Oh, deary deary me. Well, that's one positive of being divorced, one less person to argue with over money!

Sent an email to WR Long asking those very questions. Right now inclined to go with the ATI, which comes with a weld on bracket, which is one large rectangular piece. The WR Long Brackets come as two pieces much smaller almost square. I think I've already made up my mind to do it, just not clear on which one, or to mix and match.

I don't think they sell direct, hopefully can find a flexible dealer.

 

[joea99]

My Kubota L3600 had a pin on 4n1 bucket,WR Long, on a Great Bend loader. I ordered a SSQA from WR Long, unpinned the bucket, added the SSQA, picked up a grapple and forks, and after a year finally converted the bucket to SSQA. Glad I did it when I got the tractor, use the forks and grapple a lot, bucket not so much. But with the 4n1 the loader has hydraulics up front for the grapple.. WR Long probably has or can make the parts for your loader and will have the parts to convert you bucket.. At our age, do it sooner than later.

Mind telling me what their kit cost? And how long ago, to account for inflation?

 

[Piston]

What model box blade do you have?

Do you understand the principle of using the rear blade of your box blade, as a "gauge wheel" and keeping your top link in float?

The rocks will still be a PIA no matter what, but if there is enough dirt to fill the box completely, and then use your rear blade as a gauge wheel of sorts, you should be able to make some progress with the tools you already have.

I know this pic shows smooth dirt and not what you are dealing with, but just an example. In this pic, the box is completely full (even if a lot of rocks pile up). If you can keep it full, the weight and amount of dirt in there will help the box blade leave a smoother finish. In this pic, my top link is in float, and I adjust the “cut” of the front blade simply by raising/lowering the 3 point hitch in small amounts. This will open up (or close) a small gap under the front blade, allowing only the fines to filter underneath the front blade, while the rear blade packs it down and rides on a level surface.

Using the top link in float like this will solve 90% of your problems related to pitching motion of the box blade when your tractor goes over a bunch of bumps/dips.

 

[scootr]

I have rocky clay and sandy soil depending upon the location... but lots of rocks. I reclaimed the neighbors field last year to make it suitable for mowing.
The rocks in these soils are in endless supply. Sinking rippers in is just asking for more rock to come up. What is done is done.
So now you have lots of rocks 3-12 inches. You are going to have to hand pick and load the big ones. Then you can start raking the 6" minus rocks into rows by angling the rake and going kinda slow. This is called windrowing. You can keep pushing the windrow until it gets too big and then just start fresh and begin another row. I would not use gauge wheels but a steady hand on the top and tilt to see what works best. Don't try to get all done in one pass. When you get the majority of rocks gathered, I use a rock bucket to collect windrows. Do it again, and again if needed. Take your time its a big job.