Box Blading in reverse

[Dyer retired]

Rob,

I've watched the video you provided several times and it looks like you just adjust your links with the hydraulic lifts as you encounter tough spots???? Either way, if that kind of work hasn't resulted in any further bends, breaks, or cracks, then I'm comfortable that I'm not going to hurt anything to mine doing the work I'll be using the blade for. I learned my ramming lesson and will take it easy from now on, but wanted to add the reinforcement for that occassional rock that surfaces through the frost. Something you said in a different thread made sense to me and that was....the force that stops the tractor when pulling an implement is the same force that stops the tractor when pushing the implement. If that force doesn't break the tractor framework or housing, then it should withstand the same force going in the other direction. I thought your two videos certainly demonstrate what your tractor is capable of withstanding. I agree with everyone that has posted regarding the 3 point hitch not being designed necessarily to push with, but it sure works out for me if I can do that and now I think I can with the simple fix you suggested.

Now, if I can just make it another month without hurting myself....my wife says I can buy a welder if I don't hurt myself for 6 months and it's been 5 so far. Almost there! John

 

[N80]

As others have mentioned, if you beef up all the link hardware you are then putting other hardware in jeopardy. This is of particular concern to me because the drag links (lower links) of my tractor attach to a captured pin that is held by flanges that are part of the transmission housing. If one of these flanges gets broken, you have to replace that side of the transmission housing! I don't like the design at all, but it is what it is.

I do still push with my boxblade. I'm just real careful.

 

[3RRL]

Yup George, we all gotta be careful. In your case I don't don't blame you at all with that configuration. That could get costly or at the very least be a hard repair for the DIY guy.

John, yeah I adjust the blade using not only the 3pt but also with hydraulic side links and the top link as well. Those videos were when I was roughing in to cut a slope away. I had to go over it several times to get it reasonable. I think there are a couple times where you see the whole tractor slide kind of sideways in that 2nd video? That was fun since there is a ravine about 15' away on the low side. Best way is to drag the blade forward with the rippers down to render the soil workable and then shape or move it. I only showed videos of the backwards bulldozing since that is pertinent to the topic, but lol ... I do forward work too, of course.

 

[Dyer retired]

I only showed videos of the backwards bulldozing since that is pertinent to the topic, but lol ... I do forward work too, of course.

Rob,

I had read your other thread and watched the progress on your road work and knew you had pulled the box blade on the more level areas. The rationale for pushing the box blade as you cut the sides of the hills made sense to me.....that would be a big tractor to go over on. I did see the tractor seem to slip sideways a little in the video, but it didn't appear to ever want to stop and I think, based on the size of your box blade, that there is significant weight being moved...even if loosened up dirt. The hydraulic side links would sure make angling the blade quick and painless. I mentioned before, the two grapples on the front bucket are very cool.....I take it they can be operated independently?

I attached a picture of my new 5 foot blade. I know it's not special, but it's new and new things are fun. It is already much dirtier than when I took the picture. It's proving to be much better suited for my sized tractor....what a difference 1 foot less blade makes! John

 

[deputyrpa]

deputyrpa,

Sorry to hear about the snapped lift arm....how much will that be for a repair (or do you have to replace it) cost? I'm feeling better about this all the time....if you and 3RRL aren't seeing significant issues with the use you both are getting from much larger implement use with much more power behind it than I will ever use, then I think I will never see issues with how I use my blade. Your box blade reinforcements look like they will hold now? Thanks! Dyer, retired

Actually, I'm glad that's what broke. The box blade is a PITA to repair! The 6' box blade is quite large for the Jinma 284, and when I got it, did not expect the tractor to overpower it so much - I expected the opposite.

Just to explain the operation, I had the box blade tilted way back and was pushing out a half-buried 1-ton boulder in low range. It just went BANG and the lift arm snapped. However, I was using the implement in a manner for which it was not designed, basically forcing it down against the boulder. I have 2 sets of arms, 20" and 24", and the 24 broke - too much leverage with the long arms and agressive tilt. The fix was easy- a weld job.

As far as ramming - when you gotta get the nurse to work, you gotta get the nurse out of the woods! I have a driveway thru the woods and wetland, and get pinched in heavy snow. When I have to move frozen piles, I can only go one way, and that's outwards.

The real issue, though, is that I was under-tractored when I bought the farm, and it took a while to be able to buy a more appropriate machine and implements. Friday, I took delivery of a DK45S TLB, and now have the correct tools for the jobs. Now that I have much more power and weight with the Kioti, all the Jinma tractor stunts are history. That being said, I will still push with the box blade, albeit in a more subdued manner.

 

[Dyer retired]

Friday, I took delivery of a DK45S TLB, and now have the correct tools for the jobs. Now that I have much more power and weight with the Kioti, all the Jinma tractor stunts are history. That being said, I will still push with the box blade, albeit in a more subdued manner.

Congratulations on the new Tractor! Sounds like the right tractor for the right job. I did some ground work with the new blade, but nothing in reverse...still a little apprehensive. I'll wait for snow and start pushing it again, but as you say...in a more subdued manner. I'm in no hurry to start pushing snow either, ha! Summer hits tomorrow officially. John

 

[3RRL]

Hey Marc, that DK45 is a lot of tractor from what I've seen. You can get some serious tractor work done with that baby! They have some excellent features compared to our Spartan like Chinese tractors. But hey, they work too.

John, that Woods blade is very well built. Now see, that's an implement I don't have, so you are one up on me already. I've used my boxblade for just about everything I've done, hence I have a lot of hours and practice on it. About a year after I got it, I managed to beef it up and improve it in This Old Thread. Don't know if you ever saw that or not, but I soon realized I need to do something to it?

You were also asking about the dual bucket grapples I have on the tractor. HERE is a thread with some pictures I shared showing many uses of it. They are hooked up in parallel so they operate independently like you suspected. I use them whenever I boxblade since there's always dirt, boulders or logs to move.

 

[deputyrpa]

Thanks guys. Yeah, the DK45 is a powerhouse - not that the Jinma is a slouch - but, weight rules. I definitely got my money out of the Jinma, and it's all set up for the next owner. The implement I really needed to get was a backhoe, and I've done lots of work so far.....24 hours in less than a week!

 

[RadarTech]

Well, I may be a bit late to add comments, but here goes...
As some of you might remember I am in the middle of building a house in the mountains of W NC. Now to some of you these mountains are really mole hills..

But-- I too have been pushing the BB in reverse.
A couple of notes:
1. I have bent the support arms on the BB
2. There are lots of rocks- See my pic here for one of the medium - large ones..
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/kubota-owning-operating/105088d1214089823-la463-sheared-loader-bolt-img00087.jpg

3. I have a light weight BB, thought was to buy a cheaper one, learn the ins and outs, abuse it, break it, destroy it, and if it holds up great- if not hey I honey I need a welder.. or hey honey I need a newer heavier BB....

4. The BB being lighter also means that the metal on it will bend easier than on the 3 pt lower arms... Or so goes my theory-- And fact-- SO FAR...


When I push in reverse:
1. A hand is kept on the control handle- up and down as needed.
2. If the tires are spinning lift, do not lock the differential.
3. If there is alot of push back, flip the tractor around and "bucket load" and start over with the blade.. - Hard lesson here- 30% bend on both BB pin arms..


So far it has been okay- And the welder is real close to being purchased...

I have dropped a 20 by 30 foot slope about 3 feet in elevation between the blade and the FEL, and done a ton of leveling..

Just gotta be careful!


Later,
J

 

[Dyer retired]

3. I have a light weight BB, thought was to buy a cheaper one, learn the ins and outs, abuse it, break it, destroy it, and if it holds up great- if not hey I honey I need a welder.. or hey honey I need a newer heavier BB....

So far it has been okay- And the welder is real close to being purchased...

RadarTech,

Not too late for comments and I like your approach to getting a welder. I've gone at it from the opposite end, saying, "If I had a welder, I could reinforce things, so I wouldn't break them in the first place." The response I get is, "You'll burn the house down." She's softened some to the idea lately though.

I think you went into your project having considered all the potentials involved and weren't surprised by what you found. I think your comment, "Just gotta be careful," is a good approach. Dyer, retired