Box Blading in Reverse

   / Box Blading in Reverse #61  
Bill, do you have a hydraulic top link? Without it, I would find boxblading considerably less effective and learnable. Using the blade in reverse without a hydraulic link almost undoable or at least not practical. You really need to tilt the box back for reverse cutting. There is a fine line between too much cut and not enough. I find I need to exagerate the angle to get into the surface, especially turf. Once I've opened it up, I back the angle off. I have literally peeled off 2" thick layers of turf 72" wide useable elsewhere. It's like a sod cutter. The back of my boxblade is shiny steel up about 14". It was once all black. I do not ram my box in either direction. I pretty much give it more of a gradual load until it is obvious that I'm not going to get anymore push from the tractor. I then retract the toplink all the while pushing. Try doing that with a manually adjsuted top link
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #62  
<font color="blue"> Bill, do you have a hydraulic top link? Without it, I would find boxblading considerably less effective and learnable. </font>

Rat...not yet... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif... but I expect to in the future... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

One thing about having to make the adjustments manually, it actually may give one an incentive to learn quicker! Gets too tiring otherwise... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

My B2910 Kubota is on the light side, and that may make a difference in what it can do with the box blade. I have messed mostly with raw dirt, and not with turf, so I don't know about turf at all. But for moving dirt such, the manual adjustments have not been a mojor issue for me yet.

I do find the tilt adjustment to be more of a pain than the top link adjustment, since I have to get off the tractor to change the tilt. Fortunately, I have not needed to use the box tilted too much.

Is it possible that having a T&T makes learning to use the box blade more difficult? So easy to change that when learning one might tend to change settings too frequently?

At this point I would like to have the T&T, but having never had one, I don't know what I am missing so I can wait...a little longer I suppose...
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #63  
Bill, I think the hydraulic top link get's you to try things you probably would not do. I'm still experimenting. There are times I'm just not getting the result I want. This frequently happens when the conditions are dry. I never fooled much with a manual top link but with hydraulic it's movng all the time. For my uses, having a manual top link might be analogus to having manual screws on the loader, imagine that!
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #64  
Hydraulic top links on box blades are nice and expand the useability of the box blade, but not having one does not make a box blade unuseable. They will however make the box blade very troublesome to use when they malfunction.
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #65  
"Hydraulic top links on box blades are nice and expand the useability of the box blade, but not having one does not make a box blade unuseable. They will however make the box blade very troublesome to use when they malfunction."


OK. Glad to see the obvious stated. If you ever find your hydraulic top link (theres only one top link) to malfuntion (none of mine ever have) it would be a very simple matter of pulling to pins and reinstalling the manual top link while you fix the problem. A 20 second fix for me.
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #66  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I never fooled much with a manual top link but with hydraulic it's movng all the time. )</font>

I sure agree with that! For most of my uses, 95% of the boxblade is rough cutting and only 5% is finish grading. When I am rough cutting, I have my toplink and tiltlink moving constantly. I like the ability to change the cut angles to get a good bite of soil and then instantly change the box angles to drag the dirt I just filled my box with.

When you don't have TnT, you use the boxblade differently than you do after getting TnT. Both are effective use of the boxblade, but TnT just makes it a very pleasant and productive experience. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #67  
The next logical step if to add hydraulically operated scarifiers! It's only a "little more" money........... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #68  
Good one Ron on the hydraulic scarifiers. Would that be one cylinder for all or one for each tooth ? Or maybe 2, one for depth and one for angle ? WOW how many valves can I fit on my tractor anyway ? Got 2 rear/mid remotes now, 2 for my loader, and adding another one soon for a clamshell attachment on my loader... Actually I think I would use a tilt cylinder for my box blade more than the toplink one, ground is not too flat here...
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #69  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( ...add hydraulically operated scarifiers )</font>

I have a 66' boxblade that once had hydraulic scarifiers, but someone took them off. Now it looks like my toothless grandpa. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif I don't have a lot of clay, so for most jobs, I don't even need scarifiers.

My little 5' boxblade with the scarifiers all the way down is very easy to pull. With my hydraulic toplink, I can tilt forward and cut with the scarifiers and then tilt back slightly and drag dirt without scarifying. It's almost as good as having the hydraulic actuated scarifiers. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Box Blading in Reverse #70  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Ozarker, you should probably not look at the attachment so you can continue your rigid, narrow view of tractor use. But, while you are only going forward, some of us are quite happy to use implements like the Bush Hog Roll Over boxblade. We can get work done in both directions and that equates to productivity in my book. I think Bush Hog agrees with me. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>

There is nothing narrow or rigid about my view of tractor use. But that comment shows that you still can't quite comprehend the discussion. And that is a shame.

Yes, we all know that there are many creative ways to USE a tractor and many creative ways to USE the implements attached. But this discussion wasn't about how people USE things. It was about how the 3-point was designed to be used. I really don't care how you USE your tractor. You can USE it in place of your car to drive to and from work every day if you want. But then you would probably try to argue that a tractor was designed to be a car and driven to and from work.

As for looking at your attachment......why would I not want to look at it? After all the arguing you have done, you post a picture of an implement that proves my point. That blade can be set to "back blade" and black blading is the pushing and smoothing of already broken up soil. My point from the very beginning was that the box blade was only designed to push loose material for spreading and smoothing. The implement you linked to has teeth for breaking up the soil and the blade can be positioned to back blade that soil. It is not a dozer blade for making new cuts in undisturbed soil. Back blading, done with a blade facing rear or done with the lip of your FEL bucket, is one of the final smoothing operations done on loose soil or gravel.

No Bush Hog doesn't agree with you. It rolls into position to Back Blade. They agree with me.
 
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